Thinking of buying a 5th/5.5 Gen? Please post all questions and info here....
06-25-2009, 05:32 PM
#441
Hi all, just joined the site but owned a 4th generation until it was stolen and totaled. Looking to purchase an 02 SE 6sp and I went to test drive and I noticed I had to "pull up a little" and pull hard when closing the door. The seller is the 2nd owner who purchased w/25K and now has 103K on it. He said he thinks the hinges are causing it and assures no accidents. He said his friend with a 2000 is having the same problems.
Have any of you heard/seen this problem and how much does it generally cost to repair?
Thanks for your help!
Have any of you heard/seen this problem and how much does it generally cost to repair?
Thanks for your help!
07-05-2009, 08:20 PM
#444
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cranston, RI
Posts: 80
07-05-2009, 08:35 PM
#448
I'd go for it to be honest with you, its only 2900 but try and talk it down.
Also check the engine for leaks, check to make sure the oil isn't burning, and check out the tranny, that rust spot is a little suspect though
check the entire under body of the car for major rust damages also.
Let us see a pic of the engine bay, also.......tie rod can be done relatively easily.
Also check the engine for leaks, check to make sure the oil isn't burning, and check out the tranny, that rust spot is a little suspect though
check the entire under body of the car for major rust damages also.
Let us see a pic of the engine bay, also.......tie rod can be done relatively easily.
07-05-2009, 09:06 PM
#451
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 388
no offense to anyone but that looks like a piece of crap to me. cigarette hole in the passenger seat? wow! i think she took great care of this car lol.
You can of course fix it up though, so id say offer $2400.
You can of course fix it up though, so id say offer $2400.
07-05-2009, 09:26 PM
#452
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cranston, RI
Posts: 80
what would be a good price for me to pay for this then obviously the lower the better, but what should i pay no more than...that rust is a big issue for me as well but i wouldnt know how much even to tell her it would cost..anybody got an idea??
if i were to buy it i would get the titanium rims, tint, buff the headlights [or TE headlights], exhaust tip and sunroof rain guard
if i were to buy it i would get the titanium rims, tint, buff the headlights [or TE headlights], exhaust tip and sunroof rain guard
07-05-2009, 09:35 PM
#453
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: new york
Posts: 131
Itsz not bad for the price just need a touch up of course and no used car is perfect check hoses and look for leaks n stuff and is the engie bay clean and the rust is crazy cuz it souldnt b rustin maxima don't rust like that that's honda cancer on that car but make sure under the car isn't rusted and if not then go for it
07-05-2009, 09:43 PM
#454
Eh...I think it's true what they say - if the aesthetic condition is bad...mechanical condition may not be much better (there are exceptions to this rule & even the opposite can be true at times!). But especially at 149k miles, if she can't assure you it was serviced regularly, I'd stay away (unless you can inspect the mechanical condition extremely closely) or at least have some extra reserve funds. If this is just gonna be your beater daily driver, might be alright.
07-05-2009, 10:23 PM
#455
I'd be scared they always used penzoil or some dino crap like that. Count me out of buying any car with many miles that has crap oil used in it.
That's the kind of stuff I'd be asking. Of course, play dumb like you don't know anything at 1st.
That's the kind of stuff I'd be asking. Of course, play dumb like you don't know anything at 1st.
07-06-2009, 01:14 AM
#460
RUST=PITAAAAAAAAAAAA.
I personally wouldn't rush. If the car isn't 100% what you want w.o regrets don't get it. It's gonna come back in bite u in the as$. you know it's bad if the under body is rusted. You know it's REALLY bad if the actual body is starting to rust. I'd stay away.
Just my $.2
I personally wouldn't rush. If the car isn't 100% what you want w.o regrets don't get it. It's gonna come back in bite u in the as$. you know it's bad if the under body is rusted. You know it's REALLY bad if the actual body is starting to rust. I'd stay away.
Just my $.2
07-06-2009, 01:40 AM
#461
Def stay away, unless your plan is to buy it for 2400, fix it, then sell it for 4k, which would be reasonable...The rust/tie rods wouldn't be a big deal to fix...
When buying a max, I would not buy earlier than a 2002, a little more and get such a better car=bigger engine/cvt tranny if auto
When buying a max, I would not buy earlier than a 2002, a little more and get such a better car=bigger engine/cvt tranny if auto
07-06-2009, 01:49 AM
#462
I would be more worried about the rust than the mechanical stuff, these cars are pretty reliable drivers. If the fender is rusting, check the bottom radiator support crossmember. The 4th gen crossmember rusts out real bad and the 2000 is a 4th gen with a different sheetmetal. If you know of a good mechanic, take the car to him and have him inspect it.
07-06-2009, 03:55 AM
#463
Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 279
KBB Fair Condition is $3915!
Fair
• Some mechanical or cosmetic defects and needs servicing but is still in reasonable running condition.
• Clean title history, the paint, body and/or interior need work performed by a professional.
• Tires may need to be replaced.
• There may be some repairable rust damage
There is no problem using any Dino oil as long as it was changed on a regular basis, or maybe she ran synthetic and never changed the oil. Remove the filler cap and check inside the engine for buildup, also pull dipstick to see if any varnish.
Certain replacement mufflers come with no tips e.g. Midas for one. One can buy the chrome tailpipe extensions and they will make the exhaust look as good as new
Many Max’s will rust in certain locations as condensation is trapped and lingers between the panels, but it doesn’t mean the body is rusting out. As it's RI, I’d certainly check the rest of the car very closely, as well as the underside.
The cost to fix the rust, if done by a shop would be quite high, so you’re better off doing it yourself, but if it’s an area you don’t want to deal with pass on the deal, but the rust needs to be addressed, or it will spread quickly.
Make certain that the check engine light comes on when the key is turned to the on position, just to verify it wasn’t removed or burnt out. If the car runs well, A/C works fine, steers/drives straight and no noticeable problems with the brakes, and the body/tires are in decent condition, for $2900 it seems like a fair deal, but not too crazy about the added front air dam.
Fair
• Some mechanical or cosmetic defects and needs servicing but is still in reasonable running condition.
• Clean title history, the paint, body and/or interior need work performed by a professional.
• Tires may need to be replaced.
• There may be some repairable rust damage
There is no problem using any Dino oil as long as it was changed on a regular basis, or maybe she ran synthetic and never changed the oil. Remove the filler cap and check inside the engine for buildup, also pull dipstick to see if any varnish.
Certain replacement mufflers come with no tips e.g. Midas for one. One can buy the chrome tailpipe extensions and they will make the exhaust look as good as new
Many Max’s will rust in certain locations as condensation is trapped and lingers between the panels, but it doesn’t mean the body is rusting out. As it's RI, I’d certainly check the rest of the car very closely, as well as the underside.
The cost to fix the rust, if done by a shop would be quite high, so you’re better off doing it yourself, but if it’s an area you don’t want to deal with pass on the deal, but the rust needs to be addressed, or it will spread quickly.
Make certain that the check engine light comes on when the key is turned to the on position, just to verify it wasn’t removed or burnt out. If the car runs well, A/C works fine, steers/drives straight and no noticeable problems with the brakes, and the body/tires are in decent condition, for $2900 it seems like a fair deal, but not too crazy about the added front air dam.
07-07-2009, 06:39 PM
#466
07-09-2009, 12:50 PM
#468
Now that's just post whoring. But as far as your original question:
Assuming the engine? ...motor oil. Anything with the APICM, API grade SL, or ILSAC grade GF-III.
As far as viscosity? Check your owner's manual, or actually search. You'll find it.
Also, you're in the wrong subforum, not to mention a thread that is completely irrelevant to your question. The A34 subforum is where you want to be.
Assuming the engine? ...motor oil. Anything with the APICM, API grade SL, or ILSAC grade GF-III.
As far as viscosity? Check your owner's manual, or actually search. You'll find it.
Also, you're in the wrong subforum, not to mention a thread that is completely irrelevant to your question. The A34 subforum is where you want to be.
Last edited by pmohr; 07-09-2009 at 12:54 PM.
07-09-2009, 10:21 PM
#469
I currently have a 4th gen SE that I'm parting out pretty soon ( runs perfect kinda low kms but underbody needs work and I dont have the resources ),
and I plan to pick up a 2000-2002 SE , I definitely want the 6spd but I mostly find those in the 2002's do the previous ones have this option , and is there really any significant interior difference within those two years ?
And since I already made this post , 4th gens have a bad rep for rusty fenders, rusty quarters , leaky roof and bad rad mounts
What are some common problems with the 5th gens ?
and I plan to pick up a 2000-2002 SE , I definitely want the 6spd but I mostly find those in the 2002's do the previous ones have this option , and is there really any significant interior difference within those two years ?
And since I already made this post , 4th gens have a bad rep for rusty fenders, rusty quarters , leaky roof and bad rad mounts
What are some common problems with the 5th gens ?
07-10-2009, 04:20 AM
#471
I currently have a 4th gen SE that I'm parting out pretty soon ( runs perfect kinda low kms but underbody needs work and I dont have the resources ),
and I plan to pick up a 2000-2002 SE , I definitely want the 6spd but I mostly find those in the 2002's do the previous ones have this option , and is there really any significant interior difference within those two years ?
And since I already made this post , 4th gens have a bad rep for rusty fenders, rusty quarters , leaky roof and bad rad mounts
What are some common problems with the 5th gens ?
and I plan to pick up a 2000-2002 SE , I definitely want the 6spd but I mostly find those in the 2002's do the previous ones have this option , and is there really any significant interior difference within those two years ?
And since I already made this post , 4th gens have a bad rep for rusty fenders, rusty quarters , leaky roof and bad rad mounts
What are some common problems with the 5th gens ?
07-12-2009, 05:54 PM
#472
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2
Was looking for some input on this '01 Maxima GXE I'm looking at buying. I checked it out and took it for a test drive and it looks like new, drives like new, quiet, rust-free on the body, engine looks new and rust-free, and has a clean CarFax.
There's two small issues, though. The power seat moves in all directions but forward and back and is a bit of a reach for me where it's stuck (but the mechanic at the lot assures he can fix it at no charge before I buy.. hopefully), and the steering pulls to the right very slightly. Pretty sure the alignment is off or the right tire pressure may be a little low.. that didn't dawn on me until later so I'm going to check the pressure out tomorrow.. hopefully it's that simple. I just hope it's not a bent strut or brake drag or something.. my mechanic will see that, anyway.
The only thing bugging me is that it has 119k miles on it. I'm taking it to my mechanic before I buy it to get his word on it.. but I thought I'd see what you guys think.
He's asking $5899 now but would knock it down to $5200 if I trade my ****ty 1996 Chevy Corsica 4 cyl (136k miles and is turning into a bomb.. it's basically parts at this point).
Here's some pictures:
Short version: '01 Nissan Maxima GXE, 119k miles, good condition for $5200 after trading my bomb '96 Corsica.
What do you think? Good deal?
There's two small issues, though. The power seat moves in all directions but forward and back and is a bit of a reach for me where it's stuck (but the mechanic at the lot assures he can fix it at no charge before I buy.. hopefully), and the steering pulls to the right very slightly. Pretty sure the alignment is off or the right tire pressure may be a little low.. that didn't dawn on me until later so I'm going to check the pressure out tomorrow.. hopefully it's that simple. I just hope it's not a bent strut or brake drag or something.. my mechanic will see that, anyway.
The only thing bugging me is that it has 119k miles on it. I'm taking it to my mechanic before I buy it to get his word on it.. but I thought I'd see what you guys think.
He's asking $5899 now but would knock it down to $5200 if I trade my ****ty 1996 Chevy Corsica 4 cyl (136k miles and is turning into a bomb.. it's basically parts at this point).
Here's some pictures:
Short version: '01 Nissan Maxima GXE, 119k miles, good condition for $5200 after trading my bomb '96 Corsica.
What do you think? Good deal?
Last edited by justiceorjustus; 07-12-2009 at 06:02 PM.
07-13-2009, 02:24 PM
#473
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 21
Seems like an ok deal, but i bought an 02 maxima se 6spd manual with hlsd for 6900 and it was a 1 owner car and the guy had all of the service records on hand. Only flaw was that it needs tires within the next year. Car had every option except navi including leather, moonroof, dual power seats, heated steering wheel, heated seats, and homelink for the garage doors. Maybe 5200 w/o the trade may be possible and im sure you could get a quick 700 for your other car selling it on your own. But overall looks pretty nice.
07-13-2009, 05:28 PM
#474
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2
I got him down to $5100 with my Corsica and bought it. 
I really couldn't be happier. I took it to my mechanic (my dad's mechanic for 20+ years, mine since I could drive) and both him and his son said that it was babied like hell and was practically new. They said that they'd be surprised if I couldn't get another 150k miles out of it. Extremely well maintained. Has new brakes among other things. My mechanic was the one who really sold it to me. I'm excited, I love it. 
I really couldn't be happier. I took it to my mechanic (my dad's mechanic for 20+ years, mine since I could drive) and both him and his son said that it was babied like hell and was practically new. They said that they'd be surprised if I couldn't get another 150k miles out of it. Extremely well maintained. Has new brakes among other things. My mechanic was the one who really sold it to me. I'm excited, I love it.
07-14-2009, 09:52 AM
#475
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1
Heya, folks,
I'm looking to buy a 2002 Maxima SE with 133,300 miles (and impeccable maintenance records). It's got some nice suspension work (improved springs, shocks, rotors, brakes, 1.5" drop, etc) and drives perfectly. How scared would you be of the mileage? The owner seems fairly firm at $7000 (which is a little over the Kelly's Blue Book "excellent" pricing, though the car generally fits the "good" description). "Good" suggests $6285 and "Excellent" suggests $6860.
Is this car a good deal for $7000? Thanks for your input!
I'm looking to buy a 2002 Maxima SE with 133,300 miles (and impeccable maintenance records). It's got some nice suspension work (improved springs, shocks, rotors, brakes, 1.5" drop, etc) and drives perfectly. How scared would you be of the mileage? The owner seems fairly firm at $7000 (which is a little over the Kelly's Blue Book "excellent" pricing, though the car generally fits the "good" description). "Good" suggests $6285 and "Excellent" suggests $6860.
Is this car a good deal for $7000? Thanks for your input!
07-19-2009, 08:46 PM
#477
I bought a 5.5 gen with high miles and timing chain noise and I whooped a 6th gen a@@ with it last night...resoundingly so.
07-19-2009, 08:48 PM
#478
07-19-2009, 08:49 PM
#479
Heya, folks,
I'm looking to buy a 2002 Maxima SE with 133,300 miles (and impeccable maintenance records). It's got some nice suspension work (improved springs, shocks, rotors, brakes, 1.5" drop, etc) and drives perfectly. How scared would you be of the mileage? The owner seems fairly firm at $7000 (which is a little over the Kelly's Blue Book "excellent" pricing, though the car generally fits the "good" description). "Good" suggests $6285 and "Excellent" suggests $6860.
Is this car a good deal for $7000? Thanks for your input!
I'm looking to buy a 2002 Maxima SE with 133,300 miles (and impeccable maintenance records). It's got some nice suspension work (improved springs, shocks, rotors, brakes, 1.5" drop, etc) and drives perfectly. How scared would you be of the mileage? The owner seems fairly firm at $7000 (which is a little over the Kelly's Blue Book "excellent" pricing, though the car generally fits the "good" description). "Good" suggests $6285 and "Excellent" suggests $6860.
Is this car a good deal for $7000? Thanks for your input!