DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The car has 3 catalytic converters. Two of them are built into the y-pipe and referred to as pre-cats. The 3rd catalytic converter is under the front passenger seat (maybe a little further back) and is the main catalytic converter.

The front pre-cats are different between a California emissions car and a Federal emissions car.

I don't think you can get a check engine light from the pre-cats, but I could be wrong.
I would take the car to an auto parts store and get the check engine codes read and see what is going on. If the main catalytic converter was plugging up, that would severely reduce the engine's performance. The problem could really be an oxygen sensor (O2), which would be much less expensive. But I can't say for sure right now.

bullet187

If the code is giving a P0420 means its the precat and P0430 is the main cat. You should pull the code before buying the car. These cats aren't cheap to fix and the precat can take around 3-4 hours to replace from a mechanic.

Bossman140

Thanks a million for the help.

Is this car something she should stay away from?

I believe he said P0420. He said his mechanic quoted $500 to fix. Sound right?

2damax

Im not sure how much the main cats cost but $500 seem close to right. Maybe a little high? Labor is probably an hour.

bullet187

PO420 is for Bank 1 Cat which isn't too hard to change out, you could get it done for less than $500 at a muffler shop.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

sounds about right...

Not at all. Depending on how much they're wanting to sell it for... you can talk the guy down mad for the SES light being a pre-cat. Even if that's not what's actually wrong with it

May we ask how much the dude's asking for it? Mileage? auto or stick?



I'd probably pay no more than 3 grand for it, personally, provided it's under 150K on the mileage

Bossman140

Guy has it up on ebay. Went to look at it and try to just buy it at a reasonable number. Asked him what it would take and he told me that book is about $3500. That may be, but I was thinking more like $2500 and honestly closer to $2k with the Cat problem. The car is clean but far from Mint. It's a no reserve auction so i just may see where it goes. Was at $1125 earlier today. Has 117K on the clock.

Roymg

I have an 03 Max I bought new. It now has 95,000 miles. The only problems I ever had with this car are:

Rear sub-woofer speaker is intermittent. Needs a new power relay

Oil pan oil plug leakage-re-placed pan. I'm sure the dealer at sometime crossed threaded..I never myself changed oil

Replaced radiator this year (2013)

Rocker arm cover gasket now leaking. Cant get to all of the bolts to snug up because of the air intake manifold.

Oil cooler O ring leak at filter

Rear window brake light now out...no big deal

So I say most of the problems I've had are oil leaks..otherwise it's been a very good car to own, but I did buy it NEW.

Entrepit

What is the consensus on how these cars are handling at +100k, GLE in particular. How does the handling of the GLE contrast the luxury SE's?
I test drove a beautiful 2003 GLE that had a front in collision in 2004, it had a lot of play for my high standards on the interstate, and that sprung questions i couldn't find answers for in my searchings.

What is the front end supposed to feel like? (Is slightly boat like normal business for the GLE (and or SE)?)

IF I were to tear down all of the weak links on its front in and replace with new links, how responsive should I expect the wheel to feel on the highway?

I am very curious as to what to expect as I actively hunt my maxima down. What does this model need, to respond on the freeway like a dream? I crave somewhat above average accuracy and responsiveness coming out of the lifted truck scene.

Thank you all!

Entrepit

Can We get this answered please?

Can we get this answered please?

Entrepit

This guy has a great question

Entrepit

Reading this thread was a doooozeeeeyy. Heres what I took from it and I hope it can solve a lot of the senior members justified grouchiness toward newbies:

When buying a Maxima, you want to know what problems to look for. Thats why this thread was important. But it turned into a lot of side chats and ancillary chats. Here's a synopses of what I found running through it in full.

I'm searching, and so far I have:

Piston rings for oil burning problems
Wheel bearings
Lower radiator support
electrical issues
engine oil- see piston ring note above?
Interior rattles-
Bad Catalytic converter
Bad knock sensors
AC/Heater
MAF sensor
o2 sensors
Gears grinding
Bose radio's poop all the time
Cause Torque steer: Tranny code RS6FS1H means it has HLSD. that can be located under the hood on the firewall. if it says RS6FS1A then it's an open diff.

Hard shifts when cold, normal shifts when warmed up?
Stolen HID's, replaced with early 5th gen lights
LCA's by 150k
check the struts, that is another wear and tear item, you may see worn out shocks and springs.
Door hinges may have worn out too and most noticeable on the front doors.
Blitzfist: "Also cold start drive it and push it. take it for a highway run and floor it when merging. If it seems to hold up well, then the car is fine. Cold starting it is key though."
Wheelieking: "if there is a radiator leak then I'd watch out for a possible head gasket problem. Maybe someone can chime in on how to check it. That's a repair you don't want. The little problems you mentioned sound cheap to fix."
Scottwax: "Look at it in the full sun, makes spotting swirls, scratches, acid rain damage, water etching and evidence of repainting a lot easier. Repainting a trashed finish properly can easily cost more than replacing the engine."

What Dansmax said: Any service records? Have they replaced fluids, brakes, belts?

Did I mention oil burning??

Tookrzy...: check to see if the recalls about the camshaft position sensor is done


Denny 1986: Coilpacks cost an arm and a leg and its good if they're replaced with the upgraded version....(its a known problem with our cars) ... -> MAf = Mass Air Flow sensor..basically if this sensor fails, the car would hesitate to accelerate among other things.. -->

ScottWax: Drivetrain should be good to at least 200,000 miles assuming it was properly maintained. Expect that you might have to replace the precats with those miles.

Ask about camshaft position sensor.

LA02MAX: "5.0 gen: Solid car. The 01's have the updated MAF and coils so they generally don't have as many problems with those as the 00 maxima. My mom replaced her MAF and coils on her 00 with 01 parts at 60k miles and they lasted all the way to 240k. The only other thing she replaced on that car was the motor mounts. VERY reliable.

5.5 gen:
-A lot of people have 3rd gear synchro issues. The gear grinds a little going into third gear at higher RPMs. It doesn't affect the driveability (at least it didn't for me) but it's kind of annoying. I got it fixed under warranty.
-Some VQ35s are oil burners. We've basically isolated the issue to the piston rings, but the issue doesn't affect the majority of the cars out there (though the percentage affected is kind of uncomforting..).

The 5.5 gen is much more fun to drive than the 5.0, but some people like the smoothness of the VQ30 over the VQ35. The only thing I can advise is to do some high RPM shifts (>3k rpms) into third gear on a test drive, and also ask someone to rev the engine near redline and check if a decent amount of smoke comes out the exhaust. The smoke 'test' isn't definitive by any means but if you notice a large amount it might be an oil burner so you should ask them to monitor the oil level a couple thousand miles after you buy the car. If it burns oil, try to get it replaced under warranty.

My car has been pretty solid. I had the synchro issue and an o2 sensor go out on me, but the engine doesn't burn a drop of oil and it still runs very good at 67k."

Maximized2000: Referring to his problems -->"Coils, pads and rotors, MAF."

Nzelinsky:Test how the clutch feels and put it through all the gears. Make sure you pull it up over 4-5K rpms to see how it feels higher up in the revs. Look at the condition of the front tires too. If they are worn excessivley compared to the rear the owner probably bagged the car. Also bring a friend and have them rev up the car while you watch the exhaust, check for black or white smoke. (white = serious headgasket problem/ black = burning oil)... other than that just rip it around and put it through its paces, take some quick corners, hit the brakes hard and see the stopping power also. btw dont crash the car though! (http://forums.maxima.org/7212371-post535.html)

http://forums.maxima.org/7224151-post538.html --> "Ok I scoured the threads here...my eyes are burning from all the good information. So I have found the following things to look for as common problems on the Maxima's:

1. 02 sensors
2. converters
3. coils
4. blower motors
5. shocks
6. MAF

I am going to look at an 01 Se with 72k miles on it at a nissan dealer tomorrow. Have I missed anything above in my list? Also, they are offering a Nissan warranty for 2years and I want to see if any of the parts that are known problems would be covered. Can someone verify if my list is complete? If not what else should I be looking out for?"

In response --> Nothing from nobody.


http://forums.maxima.org/7342737-post567.html
"The story of my 2002 Maxima SE 78,000 miles : A Beautifully Wrapped Lemon

I bought it almost 3 yrs. ago to this day. About a month or so after my purchase I had to replace one of the ball bearings, then I had to replace the brakes, then roughly a year ago I took it to the dealership to have all the fluids flushed out and replaced (wasn't cheap), I also had a problem with my windows but it was a cheap fix $75. I have loved this car dearly up until this week. Apparently some 5th generation Maximas have an issure where the Pre-catalytic (sp?) converter regurgitates particles back into the engine roughing up the cylinder walls causing "blow-by." This ultimately ruins the engine. At 78,000 miles this is absolutely ridiculous and I am NEVER buying another Nissan. I do plan on contacting Nissan about this, I will post again to this thread with the results. The only thing that will reinstate my trust in Nissan is if they replace my engine on their dime."
--> 2slow responded: "Reviving this piece of the conversation.

I think homeyclause misunderstood the situation. The problem is not back pressure within the exhaust system, but rather the break-up of the pre-cat combined with exhaust flow reversion. The exhaust flow momentarily reverses (during valve overlap) which can draw pieces of a broken-up catalyst into the combustion chamber. Once inside the chamber these abrasives will damage the piston ring to cylinder wall seal and cause blow-by."

http://forums.maxima.org/7508493-post610.html
nightmareukl: you need to check 2 things in maxima, engine and tranny.
dip stick should be clean, if the is sludge any where, especially in the dips or all the way up top around the screws pass on the car it means oil change was not priority of previous owners. Tranny should shift without hesitation and be smooth especially when you accelerate had then let go of the gas, there should be no big bangs or jerks.
and most of all because you're not familiar with this car drive another one and make sure the one you want to buy is not lacking in power, because for someone who is not used to vq even when its not working properly will seems fine, been there

Jowo9: -Things to look for: hmm... the Bose CD player often starts cutting out on the left side... there's a write-up on here to fix that if you're good with taking things apart etc...or you can just replace it... or maybe you won't have that problem, or don't care. also, I've heard some 5.5 gens burn lots of oil, but I don't have that problem..

Wakeboard99: Based on the info I've found here I should check the following:
1. 02 sensors replaced?
2. converters replaced?
3. coils how many replaced?
4. blower motors working on 1-4
5. shocks replaced?
6. MAF replaced?

(+ knock sensor)

The6spdmax: Theres a common leak on the right top side of the radiator, you can't really see it unless from the side because its underneath the intake scoop (I don't know if thats the correct term). Is the coolant low?

Originally Posted by williswhatchyou View Post
will 8" speakers fit in the rear door pannels. I have an 03 w/o bose sytem
I have a 2003 se and the front doors take 6.5 inch speakers while the rears take 5.25 inch speakers. I got away with buying 4 alpine type r 6.5s and they fit fine. Watch out for the mounting depth if you get 6.5s. 4.75 to 5.3 mounting depth should fit. Most 6.75 inch speakers have too large of a mounting depth to fit the maxima without modification. 8 inch speakers will not fit, regardless of how large a spacer you buy, the door panel wouldn't go back on. If toy want some bass, add a sub.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Wow. Welcome to the org.
Your copy paste skills are strong.

Entrepit

Thank you. You could say they are from my (only) religion... --> http://lmgtfy.com/?q=kopimism+

heavychevy

Hope this is the right thread because.I'm looking at a 2003 max se 6 speed hlsd cloth interior black on black 160,000 miles has some wheel well rust. Guy fixes cars so I'm semi worried but he onky wants.2500 and I can put the leather and.all the options in on the cheap. The car.is.also 2 hours away how am I supposed to bring it to a mechanic.to get checked out. Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Find a mechanic near the seller that does pre purchase inspections.

Niismo

Hi guys i will buy a 2003 maxima this week and I want to know what to look in the 2003. Problem that appear often.
I need like a check list
Its a 2003 gle no rust with 121000km (80,000mi i think) for 4k

Thanks guys !

tosheto

iTrader: (5)

Radiator support rust, oil burning. The usual issues.

Niismo

Okay thanks for the info

george__

iTrader: (1)

take it to a dealership and have them do a 1000 point inspection (have them check every single thing on the car).

jr schultz

An 03 Maxima with only 80,000 miles for $4,000 sounds like a good buy. If it's an automatic ask the owner how often the transmission fluid has been changed. Hopefully it was regularly done. If you are unsure of car mechanics I would spend the $100 or whatever for a mechanic to check the car over. Just realize a mechanics' job is to find problems to fix. If the mechanic comes back with a huge list of problems walk away. If he finds only a few things you'll have to decide what to do. No used car will be perfect. I hope everything works out. post pics if/when you purchase it. I've had my car for 7 years, and it now has 157,000 miles. I have no regrets with my Maxima.

george__

iTrader: (1)

^
Mechanic I went to found a few and said it should be reliable... In my case the few problems turned into huge list of problems

The_Fixer

iTrader: (1)

I bet the maxima feels the same way about the driver or should we say owner cause your car don't get driven much........

Niismo

Thanks for the answer guys ! The car has 74000miles i use a convert app to be sure of the exact mileage. Yes its an A/T , but the A/T fluid should be change every 60,000mile so if it never been done i will do it. And for the 1000 point check list at the mechanic i never saw this kind of inspection, only 100,180,300 point inspection around Here

2003MaximaMan

If you do buy it be sure the gut the pre-cats ASAP. they ruin the engine.


save some money for Mods!

Niismo

Gut the pre-cats ??? What u mean ?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I can tell you didn't even try to search.


http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...?highlight=gut

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...?highlight=gut

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...?highlight=gut

george__

iTrader: (1)

headers

Niismo

Anyway i need info on issue not on mods to do. I will not gut the pre cats for fun or for the sound.

clintb3astwood

iTrader: (10)

Here's some info, don't buy a maxima. Get something else.

Niismo

Like what a honda civic ?? Please tell me so i dont make a mistake ! ...

Seriously guys any other idiots comment

The_Fixer

iTrader: (1)

Maximas are fine cars i have owned a few of the and still have 2 on the road i personally have had very little issues with them,but just like with any other car you have to Maintain it! You will get out of the car the same thing you put into it.things to look for are oil burning 60% of that can be cured by simply changing to 6th gen valve covers about $80 investment,pre cat deterioration this can be herd at around 2000 rpm sounds like a rattle most of the time,automatic transmission 1-2 flair when it shifts its not a huge issue just something to pay attention to and it also is easily fixed for about $300.

D.Stillwell

^^ LOL @ idiot comments

Some serious advice now -- First, don't take it to no dealership as it will be pointless and a ripoff. You need an honest small mom & pop shop mechanic, and if you don't have one yet but your car skills aren't that great you need to find one asap! Take the car only to one of these mechanics that you trust, it's important to gauge how knowledgeable one is when it comes to cars in general and specifically Nissan/Maximas. This way they can actually look at the important things and tell you the truth.

$4k price for 74k miles seems low, even if the car is bare bones with no options. I'd be wary of this, just due to the price. How many owners did it have? What are the options on the car? What kind of shape is it in? All those questions need answered.

Things to check should be -- oil (burning, no way to tell 100% right away but most of these vq35's burn some oil unlike the vq30 esp. over 100k miles), check for rust especially around wheel wells, radiator support, and the entire exhaust system, check ignition (starter/alternator/battery) as you may need a new battery soon after buying, check plugs for wear and carbon buildup (good way to tell how the car's been running and know when you will have to change em), check drive belts for wear and cracks (make sure they're not making any sounds), also make sure the timing chain isn't making any sounds, do a smoke test on the exhaust for visual leaks and small holes, check suspension for wear (struts are common at this age/mileage on the car plus cv joints are often torn as well by this point), look at trans fluid and see if it's ever been changed (if not do a drain and fill), oh and you can also inspect the motor mounts for any visual cracks.

When you test drive it, see if the tranny slips at all. Hit it hard and see how it shifts, any hesitation between shifts can indicate a possible problem or perhaps just old dirty fluid, this is especially true when car is cold. When car is warm, if you feel any jerking in the tranny that's not good and it's not the fluid at that point. You can test motor mounts by running thru the gears when parked on a level road, if jerking/banging happens when going into any gears you may have a broken mount or two, same is true if you feel excessive vibration in the wheel when car is running and standing still. Finally, floor the thing on an open road and see if you can tell how well the car breathes, if you get pulled back into the seat and spin tires then probably it's good, if you can't spin tires in that car then it's probably in bad shape, if you feel a lag in acceleration and sound when flooring it the system may have too much back-pressure (this is to address the pre-cats thing someone mentioned), if you hear a rattle around 2-3k rpm there may be a problem.

BTW, it really is a good idea to gut the cats if you can, does wonders for the cars ability to breathe like a champ and makes a clear difference in acceleration (esp. top end). Anyway, hopefully you have some good info now, good luck with it!

Niismo

Thats what im talking about !!! Thanks to you 2 !! And for question about the price/option ratio, here in quebec you can get a 30,000 miles maxima 2003 GLE for 8k.
All the GLE are the same here.
All the SE are the same to.
The exemption are the gxe. (Only the 98-99, because some had the fogs/spoilers some not).
In quebec you dont really have a lot of choice in the option at the dealership.
Its not like the US, you have a market for car about 330 millions people, canada (coast to coast) its only 10% of that.
So some model are not available here or some leather or interior color are not available here depend of the brand name or model.
But used cars cost less here. For exemple i saw in the US an 140k maxima for 6995$ thats crazy high, for a 1k more here you can buy one under 70k with the same year /option. And about the pre cat, here its illegal to do that, i dont really care but since here they care about enviroment, you can get a pretty hight ticket of a couple hundred if you get caught.

Thanks for you both, i will write down those advice and i will look myself at the car because my mechanic is at my town but the car is at 3h driving distance.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

It's illegal here too, but we still do it.

Used to be a 10k USD fine. I have no cats on my car, pre nor main, and it's a DD.

Niismo

DD ? I know DD for women but for car i got no idea

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Daily Driver.

Niismo

Didnt buy the maxima 03 so ill keep my 99

losifanatic

Ok guys I am getting a new car this month. I am looking at an 03 6 speed loaded se maxima. Its has 80k miles on it. It looks like brand new from the pics. One owner from car fax report. Also looking at a 2003 infinity i35 fully loaded with 62k miles on it and it also looks brand new with one owner on the car fax. The maxima is 600 miles away from my house and the infinity is 175 miles away.

I like the maxima as it has a 6 speed (I like the look better and firm suspension) and it gets better gas miliage. The infinity is closer, has less mileage and is $500 cheaper. both come with a 4500 mile warranty

Having a very hard time deciding which one to get. Any input/insite from you guys would be. Thanks!

george__

iTrader: (1)

6 speed loaded SE is probably rarer