Few questions, I'll probably get shunned by someone but I don't care at this point.

1. Anyone have a problem with their rear brake pads grinding against the rotor? The pads are secure in the caliber, but it seems to be compressed with the E-Brake off and car in neutral or park. I was driving and heard loud noises from inside and then got out and smelled it burning and the rotor was twice as hot as the fronts. It was driven for about... oh 15minutes when it happened.

2. The rear calibers piston or whatever it is, to get it to retract I don't think you can push it because it had teeth, so I want to confirm you turn it.

Any opinions or experiences would be helpful, I had a buddy of mine (that's a technician for Honda) and he took a look at the rear pads and grinded the little spring arm things down so it'd have some play but we couldn't get the caliber piston to go down, we're going to talk to some other people but I thought what better place than to ask the org.

 

you can turn it..sounds like your caliper is shot...get some new ones.

 

Open the bleed screw and turn the piston with the approiate tool. It can't be pushed in like the front calipers! Just remember to open the bleed screw when pressing or turning piston to prevent possible damage of ABS system!

 

My buddy and I are going to be looking at it again soon and probably bleed both rears and see if they release at all, if not I'll probably go visit Nissan and get new calipers. I wonder if my rotors warped from the heat..?

 

Same caliper issue here on my rear driver on my 00. Just gonna get a new one.
An now i have to repaint it AGAIN!

 

before you go replacing them, play with the ebrake mechanism on the caliper. It may be stuck. I had that happen to me, and once I freed it and WD-40'd it, no more problems. Another way to test this is to lift the ebrake lever (on the center console), and if it has a lot of play before it engages, this is likely the problem.

If thats not the problem, the caliper is probably shot like the rest of the guys said.

 

If you tried to press the calliper in with a c clamp without using the proper tools it can ruin your calliper, happened to my next door neighbor when he did his. You can get the tools from autozone and they wont charge you to use them, it's real easy

 

Yeah I tried that when it first happened and it didn't do anything. I haven't heard any obnoxious or unusual noises since my buddy messed with it, but I still feel like I'm dragging a bit. Thanks though.

 

Dont't open the bleed screw, that will introduce air into the system. Just push the piston in and take the cap off the master cylinder. Remember to put a rag around the master cylinder in case the fluid overflows.

 

I had this problem in my 4th gen last winter. It turns out the ebrake was stuck (it's an auto, so I never used it). The cable pulls on a hinge which actives the ebrake. I loosened the hinge by using some PB Blaster and hitting it with a rubber mallet. Problem solved!