Okay, so I just had my bumper replaced, before then, everything was fine. After that, this is what happened.
A few hours after my car was acting normally after the new bumper was replaced, I get into my car, start it, and notice my gauges are not working. No response from them at all. Turn my car off, try again, still nothing. I check the fuses and I find that the "meter" fuse is blown. I change that, and the gauges work now. But now I have a check engine light and the Door ajar and trunk open light is on. No fuses are blown. I checked the incar fuses, and under the hood. They are all fine. Little bit later, my shift lock stops working, so I have to press the button every time. Later on, I find some other things that are acting up....
When the car is on ACC, the door locks don't work, nor does the trunk pop. It works when the key is on the ON position and when the car is running. The dome light and map lights do not work at all. When I push the button for the map light, the door ajar and trunk open light get brighter. Annnndd my remote for my car doesn't work either. I am out of ideas...

Please Help! Give me some Ideas!

 

take it back to the place that replaced the bumper.

 

Unfortunately it was a friend that replaced the bumper, but he does body work. Not sure what could have happened back there to make everything else go crazy.

 

I think some wires are short some in there. check your side makers.

 

Your buddy probably damaged your main harness on the driver's side of the car! Maybe a possible screw or fastener thru the harness! A tone generator/amplifier used by communication techs can located that problem without taking anything apart!

 

check the ground wire thats in that area idk if thats what is causing it

 

I just got done taking my bumper off and checking all the wires. I found nothing that was snagged, or that could be shorting anything out. I took my amp out and the fuse for the wires, as well as the fuse for the supertones. I have no freakin clue. I am out of ideas. I'm taking it to a buddy that works at Goodyear so he can take a look at it today. I will let ya know how it turns out.

 

Oh yea, and now my key is stuck in the ignition. The car is off. Its like when you turn the car off in Drive and it won't let you take the key out...

 

put the gear in P again.

 

I just recently got my 2k se back from the auto body shop after I jumped a curb, Right fender & driver suspension replaced, front bumper repaired. The power locks, rear defrost, (head, reading, visor) lamps, ignition key light, keyless entry don't work. All these worked while it was waiting at shop to be fixed. Ive checked all fuses, replaced the the 120a fusible link, tested battery, nothing. They said my ABS light had come and needed reset, is the ABS circuit related to these? Thanks

 

I was at Goodyear for a couple hours going over the schematics of the wiring, and kept tracing it back to the Body Control Module. I think its located right under the headunit. One of the guys said he has a friend over at Nissan and is going to ask about this issue. At cost to Goodyear it is 294 dollars, so its a pretty expensive thing to just try. I want to be sure that this is the problem, otherwise move on.

Does it sound like it be the Body Control Module?

 

Or is it possible that these problems could be the ignition switch? Someone had mentioned that to me as well.

 

After dinking around with my SECU and inside fuses, I noticed the layout of my inside fuses don't match the panel layout, so i moved my door lamp fuse down 1 slot into 13 instead of the spot corresponding with the panel and my interior lights, keyless and r-dfrost work again. Strange

 

^^wow talk about strange..they should match the panel to MY KNOWLEDGE.....but the question is..........WHY WERE THE FUSES MISMATCHED

 

I know a mechanic tried diagnosing my shift lock proble, while they were waiting for parts, ill try to post some pics of the difference.

 

Turns out there was a short in the dash. 270 bucks later, my car works fine now. I had replaced the BCM and the electric part of the ignition switch already. I was able to return the BCM, so that saved me some money.