I freakin hate that rattling sound....though im kinda used to it by now. Anywayz...how did you'all get rid of it or did u? I heard cutting a hole in the rear deck would make it sound better. Also, i was wondering if anyone made custom boxes. My ****ty mtx sub enclosure keeps moving around in the back. thanks

 

Bolt your box down or use heavy duty velcro. Dynamat or Rammatt your trunk to deaden the noises coming from your trunk. It can be found at most local car audio shops.

Maximadave

 

I just finished a MDF/Fiberglass combo box for my 02' SE. It was very time consuming, given that myself and a buddy did it ourselves. However, it looks great IMO, and sound even better. We basically cut the mdf to fit the rear rt. side with a cutout for the trunk arm. We used the fiberglass to shape the boxes edges...It was not a square/rectangular shape. The back of the box..closest to the back of the car was angled to allow for a Punch HX2 10" facing down and firing in the box, the other HX2 was firing out and located further inside the trunk at the front of the box. Push/Pull is what I think the concept is called.

What really helped was when I removed the stock sub, plate and all! This allow the new subs to vent to the cabin of the car. I think it sounds great. But I may get a more powerful amp, and/or one that is stable at 2 ohms mono.

 

MAn I been wanting to do a fiberglass custom molded style box, but I got NO IDEA how to do it and how to mold it. I am only good at making the crap out of wood. Help me out.

 

Actually, I used the rubber material that you put under small carpets. You can get some at any rug/carpet store. It makes the box very more difficult to slide. Also, I cut holes in the rear deck for the ports on the box to blow into the cabin. The rattling noise was killing me also and took a lot of time to fix. I put egg crate foam (the stuff you put under a sheet before the mattress) under the rear deck so when you put the deck back on, it is much tighter fit. Also bolted down the rear brake light so it pushed down harder on the rear deck. Helped a bunch but took some time. Good luck. Also, as your car gets older, things will just start to rattle everywhere, I have given up on trying to eliminate it.

 

I will post some pics of the box and misc.. But, basically you do the box to fit one side (you have more room on the passenger side if you want to keep access to your spare). Once you finish the rough box, you can set it in the car and take some visual notes and check distances to clear the trunk arm and also so you will be able to put the box in the trunk when finished! We finished the box with MDF and mixed some FG resin and hardner. We mixed the FG resin to harden quickly to help work the edges. You just brush the fg resin mixture on the wood and start laying sheets of FG matting, one at a time to form whatever edge/contour you desire. You brush the FG resin over each sheet then add another. We used about four sheets thickness. Then we actually mixed up some good ol' auto body filler and shaped each curve using the dry fiberglass as the backing. The filler is easy to sand and dries quickly if mixed hot. Once we roughed the shape, we sanded the entire box and covered it with the best match carpet I could find.

This is obviously not a true FG box. You can do a FB box, or part of it by Duct taping the inside of the car, no carpet, and laying the FB over the tape. Then you pop out the FG when dry and shape the edges to install a MDF front or second FB piece as the cover. We opted for the easier way.

Good luck

 

You definitely realize how many loose parts are on your car. The rear deck and trunk lid liner are the worst. Dynamat is *$#! expensive! I bought some carpet padding to do the trunk lid. Any other suggestions? How did you secure the brake light?

 

The actual casing to the brake light would not hold up and kept popping off allowing the rear deck to still bounce around and rattle a little bit. So I took the whole third brake assembly off, cut holes in the back of the casing. Screwed down the casing onto the brake light assembly, then using the holes cut into the casing, secured the bolts back in the holes while pressing down on the whole unit.

The brake light assembly uses the casing to press much harder down on the rear deck. I then took "matching" color felt that goes under things like lamps on tables and covered the holes. It looks ok but works pretty good.

Good luck.

 

I have 2 jl audio 12w3's in my AE.....i dynamated the trunk lid, under the panel in the trunk, and under the actual panel. I also put carpeting stuff and dynamat under the panel and inserted foam between the panel and the back glass window. I recommend extreme dynamat. I spent like all summer trying to stop it. NOW It's quiet as hell. I got rid of all the rattling. ITS GREAT!!!

 

Thanks. How much did you pay for the Dynamat?

 

installation and dynamat=around $250. I HAVE TONS. It was worth it though. its like no rattling...

 

Theres alot of alternitives to dynamat. Some of the things that are being used a rubber based compoundes. they seem to work great. Basicallly you "paint it on" it hardens and boom your dun.