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Is the tranny cooler working?

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Old 05-18-2008, 04:56 PM
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Is the tranny cooler working?

I was having problems with my transmission that I believe were related to my tranny overheating. I had a B&M tranny cooler installed. It's heating up here in Phoenix and I'm getting the same symptoms from my tranny again. I was wondering how I can verify that the cooler is actually working. Does anyone know how I can do this? Thanks.
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Old 05-18-2008, 05:02 PM
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what year max
is it an auto
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Old 05-18-2008, 05:13 PM
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Blow in one side with an air compressor and make sure it isn't clogged? Measure tumps with one of those infared guns? That's all I can think of.

Have you thought about installing (or having installed) A valve-body mod? It will keep the temps down and also correct some problems.
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Old 05-18-2008, 06:29 PM
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reason i asked the auto and year questions
had the same problems from my OD solenoid
it was leaking but only in EXTREME heat situations
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Old 05-18-2008, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by amomaxima
reason i asked the auto and year questions
had the same problems from my OD solenoid
it was leaking but only in EXTREME heat situations
Hmm. Interesting. I have a 2001 a/t
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:34 PM
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What symptoms?
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Scottwax
What symptoms?
A few months ago when it was hot in the fall, it would slip out of overdrive going up hills. It triggered a CEL for the speed (revolution) sensor and O/D light flashed for 10 seconds at startup (indicating a tranny problem). I had the fluid changed, the tranny cooler installed and all was good for awhile. But now it's getting hot again and I could feel some rough downshifts, especially 2nd to 1st today. I don't know if the speed sensor is really the root of the problem, or if it's something more complicated. I thought it was just overheating, so that's why I had the cooler installed. I'm probably gonna have to bring it into a shop. I'm deciding whether I should bring it into a tranny shop or to the idiots at the local Nissan dealership.
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:51 PM
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take it to a good clean trans shop
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Old 05-18-2008, 09:25 PM
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drop the pan and check for metal flake on the magnets
when my OD went the car would be in drive at any speed then dump to a neutral rev no matter what gear but still say drive
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Old 05-21-2008, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by KRRZ350
Have you thought about installing (or having installed) A valve-body mod? It will keep the temps down and also correct some problems.
WRONGA VB mod actually does the opposite, it increases the temperature of the AT fluid which is why you need to install a tranny cooler when running a VB mod.


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Old 05-21-2008, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by steelymatt
A few months ago when it was hot in the fall, it would slip out of overdrive going up hills. It triggered a CEL for the speed (revolution) sensor and O/D light flashed for 10 seconds at startup (indicating a tranny problem). I had the fluid changed, the tranny cooler installed and all was good for awhile. But now it's getting hot again and I could feel some rough downshifts, especially 2nd to 1st today. I don't know if the speed sensor is really the root of the problem, or if it's something more complicated. I thought it was just overheating, so that's why I had the cooler installed. I'm probably gonna have to bring it into a shop. I'm deciding whether I should bring it into a tranny shop or to the idiots at the local Nissan dealership.
I had this happen to my AT two times going up long hills with OD. Both times it was due to the tranny overheating.

The last time it happened I just pulled over and let the car cool down.

But it sounds like if you are getting the problem frequently you need to check the flow of the tranny cooler. Best way to do that is to remove the return line on the tranny cooler and start the car. Make sure the car is already warm as the B&M tranny coolers have a bypass valve where there is no flow when the tranny is cold. If you have flow through the return line then your tranny cooler is working. If you don't have flow you have a clog or the bypass valve is stuck.

If you have flow through the cooler I would drop the pan and check for metal. You may have a tranny that is going out.
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Old 05-21-2008, 04:53 PM
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It could also be poor grounding as well. I found that with a auto shifts came late and rough especially on downshifts. I was able to clear that problem up quick fast with a custom ground kit. Trust me the stock grounding is downright pathetic especially on the transmission. They have a 30 Gauge wire down there. I doubt it worked even when it was new. Bottomline if the ECU or TCM signal get screwed up so do your shifts. Which could explain the "some of the time" nature of the problem.
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Old 05-22-2008, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by foodmanry
WRONGA VB mod actually does the opposite, it increases the temperature of the AT fluid which is why you need to install a tranny cooler when running a VB mod.


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Old 05-22-2008, 07:46 AM
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i believe the VB mod only puts less strain on the tranny
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Old 05-22-2008, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by amomaxima
i believe the VB mod only puts less strain on the tranny
That is debatable....theoretically you would think it puts MORE strain on the tranny because of the increased fluid pressure in the valve body. But, I've had my VB mod in my Maxima for over 5 years and only had one tranny issue since. That was a very hot day on a drive back to So. Cal. from Vegas up a huge hill where the tranny overheated.
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Old 05-22-2008, 08:09 AM
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the tranny shop who rebuilt my 2k tranny explained how the luxury shifting actually hurts the transmission in high heat do to the hi strain on the tranny to prevent a bumo into thenext gear.
VB mod has a high pressure, no arguing with that, but the tranny doesnt have to work as hard to shift.
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Old 05-22-2008, 11:33 AM
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you could also install a temp. sensor/gauge. That's actually a great thing to do, esp. if you were so concerned about your tranny temp. that you installed a cooler. Some sensors actually fit right into the pan drain bolt - very cool. I do bel. that Okimura (sp?) has a gauge like that.

Another idea is this. I have an aftermarket tranny cooler w/fan installed on my Supra. It has an on/off switch which I control (one could also hook it up to a therm. and have it come on at a set temp automatically). Because I have easy access to my cooler in the eng. bay, after firing up the fan, I can hand feel that the "return" line is cooler than the "in" line. I've run multiple times at the track, and no prob. so far. (I also use Red Line tranny fluid). For now, this is sufficient for my needs. You may try that if you have similar access. But depending on how much hp and runs u're making at the track, a gauge install would be prudent.

Last edited by shysmax; 05-22-2008 at 11:37 AM.
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Old 05-22-2008, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by shysmax
you could also install a temp. sensor/gauge. That's actually a great thing to do, esp. if you were so concerned about your tranny temp. that you installed a cooler. Some sensors actually fit right into the pan drain bolt - very cool. I do bel. that Okimura (sp?) has a gauge like that.

Another idea is this. I have an aftermarket tranny cooler w/fan installed on my Supra. It has an on/off switch which I control (one could also hook it up to a therm. and have it come on at a set temp automatically). Because I have easy access to my cooler in the eng. bay, after firing up the fan, I can hand feel that the "return" line is cooler than the "in" line. I've run multiple times at the track, and no prob. so far. (I also use Red Line tranny fluid). For now, this is sufficient for my needs. You may try that if you have similar access. But depending on how much hp and runs u're making at the track, a gauge install would be prudent.


There are many affordable kits like this on the market that fit the Maxima nicely.

Tell the control module what temp you want the fan to activate, and it will. Come in different sizes (fan & capacity) and well as the option for an in cab gauge, etc.
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