Short Height Shifter project
#47
Interesting. I'd like to keep updated on this for long term reliability. I have the STS mod and ES bushings and this might finish the shifting mods for me. I'd really like to see how it feels when shifting. I'm used to the truck sized shifter.
#48
Finished the installation today, pretty straight forward. I absolutely love this mod, and shifting feels great. A little shorter in throw, not any more effort. But its more comfortable than originally because normally my elbow is lower than the ****, now the **** is lower and feels much more natural. This is the way it should have come from the factory.
Highly recommended mod if you are unhappy with the current set-up. STS next weekend.
Now what to do with my original one?
Highly recommended mod if you are unhappy with the current set-up. STS next weekend.
Now what to do with my original one?
Last edited by majesticmaxima; 05-25-2008 at 12:06 PM.
#49
were you concerned about the weld/lock-out failure?
#54
Finished the installation today, pretty straight forward. I absolutely love this mod, and shifting feels great. A little shorter in throw, not any more effort. But its more comfortable than originally because normally my elbow is lower than the ****, now the **** is lower and feels much more natural. This is the way it should have come from the factory.
Highly recommended mod if you are unhappy with the current set-up. STS next weekend.
Now what to do with my original one?
Highly recommended mod if you are unhappy with the current set-up. STS next weekend.
Now what to do with my original one?
Could have raised up the arm rest to the higher position...
Looks great though - always thought the shifter stood out like a sore thumb in the 6 speeds. Seems like an all-round worthwhile mod if it has performance benefits in addition to looking great. Nice work.
#55
I'm pretty sure it was in first. Why?
I actually bought my car in mass , i dont mind doing it except it will take a few days so... its up to you
#57
Looks great. Much needed mod. Is it easy to weld. Id need to have it done, so any suggestions for me to tell the welder. What do you think a welder should charge? Does reverse lock out work well?
#60
#61
The reverse lock-out works exactly as it used to, perhaps a little better as i lubed it a little.
I have no idea what a welder would charge or if he would even do the project considering what its for
#62
#63
#64
yours is lower. Looks real good. I cut the threaded section off only. So however many inches that portion is, is how much lower it is. Either way it goes, stock is too high.
#65
any opinions on using JBweld on the shaft? I feel like i will most likely just rethread the top but if i dont think i will be able to then i will cut it. would prefer to use Jbweld over having someone weld it but if i have to get it welded then fine
#66
If you have a 5th gen, i'm not sure what the shaft looks like, its different.
The 5.5, i dont think cutting the threaded portion is a good idea because the shaft starts to taper and then your looking at machining that down to threading diameter. Then the daunting task of running a die over that a few times.
#68
#72
so, how is it holding up? i did this to mine about a week ago. cut a little more than you (bout 2") and eliminated that lower pin since i decided it doesnt really do anything. only difference without the lower pin is that the revers lock-out will spin in circles and detach from the purple slider. nothing a little black RTV didnt take care of. reason im asking is that my lockout sleeve was doing great, and then out of nowhere yesterday it broke the epoxy bond, so i had to pull the boot off and lift the slider by hand anytime i wanted reverse. hopefully yours didnt do that. im gonna apply extremely generous amounts of epoxy to it tonight. then when it dries, apply another ridiculous amount to it. lol. hopefully your epoxy was a little better. mine was SUPPOSED to be 2 ton...guess it wasnt 2 ton shear modulus
#73
Mine has been fine, i love it.
As for the reverse lock-out, the lower pin that you removed is there to limit sheath travel and rotation. The sheath should only move like a quarter of an inch or so. I dont understand how yours broke. Did you rough up the plastic enough to get a good bond? What did you use the RTV for?
As for the reverse lock-out, the lower pin that you removed is there to limit sheath travel and rotation. The sheath should only move like a quarter of an inch or so. I dont understand how yours broke. Did you rough up the plastic enough to get a good bond? What did you use the RTV for?
#74
yeah, i thought about that pin for a while and knew what i was doing when i removed it. i just made sure that when i cut the sheath that i had it just right as far as using the shift **** to limit travel, that part works well. i roughed up the plastic, but i feel like i just didnt really get enough on there to get a good bond. it should be better this time. the RTV i used to keep the sheath from rotating, since i took the lower pin out of the equation. i sealed the sheath onto the purple slider by putting some RTV into the connector between the two, that part works well too. overall i really like the result and i cant wait to race on it soon. the only problem has been the sheath connection and that oughta be an easy solution
#77
#79
What on earth did you use to 'quench' it? I hope not water. If so I think you got lucky. You can't heat something up to red hot and then dunk it in water. Use an air gun. How much room is there in the plastic sleeve? Just wondering if you could put a metal sleeve where the weld is and then weld above and below
I think this would work better (if there is room) and you can guarantee the shaft will stay straight
I think this would work better (if there is room) and you can guarantee the shaft will stay straight
#80
What on earth did you use to 'quench' it? I hope not water. If so I think you got lucky. You can't heat something up to red hot and then dunk it in water. Use an air gun. How much room is there in the plastic sleeve? Just wondering if you could put a metal sleeve where the weld is and then weld above and below
I think this would work better (if there is room) and you can guarantee the shaft will stay straight
I think this would work better (if there is room) and you can guarantee the shaft will stay straight
The Shift lever never reached "red hot" temperatures as you implied. Yes water was used to quench the metal.
I don't understand the plastic sleeve idea you had. Why would you use a metal sleeve? For support? The plastic sleeve does not go to the bottom of the shaft where the wweld is. The weld is solid and has never moved or bent. I wanted to retain the plastic sleeve for the reverse locckout functionality. thanks