I have decent knowledge on how to change fuel pumps (on my past Mustangs), just wanted to know if there is anything that I should look out for on 2k1 Maximas. I've searched the how-to's extensively for instructions on changing the fuel pump on 5th gens to no avail.

Your constructive responses will be greatly appreciated.

 

Im pretty sure it would be almost the same as my 97. I installed walboro pump with my 3.5 swap for like 100 bucks and it tool all of 30 min. See what others say but if its anything like mine you should have no problem.

 

from what i know, to get to it you have to remove your rear seat and it's right under there.

 

First, as dangerous as it is to do this with a tank that has fuel in it, its not as straight forward as it is on older cars where fuel is "pulled" from the tank. Newer cars have the pump in the tank (as noted by the the above replies) to "push" the fuel.

To take out the fuel pump/fuel sensor/fuel filter, I recommend first to drain the fuel tank. Next, your going to have to release fuel pressure from the fuel lines.

To do this, you need to identify and remove the fuel pump fuse located in fuse box in the main cabin. Start engine and let it run intil the engine stalls. After stalling, crank it two or three times to release all the fuel pressure. Don't forget to turn your ignition switch “OFF,” then disconnect the battery ground cable and drain the fuel tank.

(Don't worry about priming the fuel line, it's no sweat. After you install the new pump, reinstall the fuse and reconnect the batttery cable, the ECM activates the fuel pump for several seconds after the ignition switch it turned to the "ON" position (not starting the engine) which primes your fuel line.)

To access the fuel pump, you need to take out the bottom rear seat cushion. I believe your back seat is released by pulling on two tabs located behind the driver and passenger seat where the rear seat cushion meets the floorboard.

When the rear bottom cushion is out, you will see some wires (covered by harness covers) one of which runs to the middle of where the rear seat cushion was and into a hole cover and connects to the fuel pump.

Lift the hole cover and disconnect the electrical connector. Also, you will see two lines connected to the fule pump with a quick connector. Before you disconnect them from the pump, make sure you mark the tubes and its corresponding connector to ensure correct installation to the new pump.

To disconnect the tubes, push in two tabs on either side of the connector, and pull out the tubes.

The fuel pump is held in place by a retainer ring that has 6 screws (if i remember correctly). Also, there is an O-ring between the fuel pump and fuel tank.

CAUTION: do not to drop the o-ring into the fuel tank when you lift the fuel pump from the tank.

CAUTION: try not to damage the fuel sensor arm when pulling out the fuel pump.

Once you get the fuel pump/fuel sensor/fuel filter unit out, installation is in reverse order...don't forget about the fuse and don't forget about leaving the ignition key in the "ON" position for a few seconds before starting the car!

If you end up doing this yourself, do what i didn't... take some pics, write it up and have it posted in the how to's section- Good luck!

 

What makes you think the fuel pump is on it's way out?

 

Replacing the fuel pump is essentially the same procedure as replacing the fuel filter except you're replacing not just the filter but the entire unit.

Here's a link with pictures from the "How To" section for replacing the filter:http://www.innerbean.com/housecor/fuel_filter.html

Below is the procedure for fuel pump and fuel filter removal from the Nissan FSM.
REMOVAL

1. Release fuel pressure from fuel line.
2. Remove rear seat bottom. Refer to BT-50, “Removal and Installation”.
3. Remove inspection hole cover located under the rear seat.
4. Disconnect electrical connector.
5. Remove the quick connectors.
6. Remove the six screws.
7. Pull out the fuel level sensor unit and fuel pump.
Do not damage the arm of the fuel level sensor and fuel
tank temperature sensor.
8. Remove flange of fuel level sensor unit and fuel pump.
Using a screwdriver, remove the snap fit portion in the order
of (1), (2) and (3) as shown in the figure at left.
9. Pull out the fuel tank temperature sensor harness.
10. Push fuel level sensor flange.
Using a screwdriver, remove the snap fit portion in the order
of (1) and (2) as shown in the figure at left.
11. Pull up the fuel level sensor.
12. Disconnect fuel pump connector.
13. Remove quick connectors from fuel level sensor unit.
Put mating marks on tubes and connectors for correct installation.
14. Pull up the fuel level sensor unit from chamber.
15. Remove fuel filter from chamber.
I Using a screwdriver, remove the snap fit portion in the order
of (1) and (2) as shown in the figure at left.
16. Separate the fuel filter and chamber.
17. Remove fuel pump bracket, then pull out from the fuel filter.
18. Remove fuel pump, then push down the fuel pump as shown
in the figure at left.
19. Remove the pump support rubber from the fuel pump.
INSTALLATION
Installation is in reverse order of removal.

 

Before going through the trouble, I would verify the FP is dead. The OP has not done this as of yet.

 

Actually, it's safer from an explosion/fire point of view if the tank is full. Less fuel or empty tank has all fuel vapor.

Throw a match into a bucket of gas, bet it won't catch fire.......

 

Let's not and say we did.

 

 

 

I can vouch that fuel vapor is a *****, If its a easy as a 240SX fuel pump I'd say go for it. Mechanics need to make a living to but damn

 

You know you're gonna try it...

 

How would you verify the fuel pump is dead before replacing it?

Thanks,
D

 

What symptoms are you having?

If you turn the key to the on position but dont start the car you should be able to hear the fuel pump running. If you dont hear anything, then check your fuel pump fuse.

Another problem that is mistaken for a fuel pump problem is a failure of the NVIS system, where it will allow the car to crank but not start. If your security light stays solid when you are cranking the engine this is probably the culprit

 

Well unfortunately I already had the car towed. But the car was cranking fine. It's weird because I was really having any starting issues till now. I was hearing this whining sound coming from the rear once the car hit 40mph( like a jet engine type noise). It only started after my mom did a 180 and hit the curb. I'll check the fuse.

Sorry but what is NVIS system, ill do a search but how will that effect start up? If this is the problem what would be the fix?

So I got someone the check the car. The red security light does stay on when the car is being cranked. So I take the problem is NVIS system. Is the only way to fix that would be to take it to the dealer?

thanks for your help
-D

 

They busted that myth on Mythbusters. Tossed matches into liquid gas with no fire or explosions.

 

I was a aircraft mechanic back in my second life, and we could throw matches into a bucket of jet fuel and it would just put the flame out. It's the vapor that gets ya in trouble....

 

I'm a chicken - I'll let you guys thow the matches.

A real happening - back around 1990 when I lived in Calif there was this guy that wanted to clean out his gas tank. He figured that boiling water in the gas tank waould be the way. Said genius worked as a cook in a local restaurant so he pulled his gas tank off while at work and took it into the kitchen to do the boiling on the restaurant stove. Needless to say that it didn't work out as planned. The restaurant was closed for over a month for repairs but when it re-opened, no one seemed to want to go there and eat.

 

I found the information below in the how-to's, before the link went dead:
How-To RESET the Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System(NVIS) on a 2K-2K1
Once a BAD key has been used CONSECUTIVELY five or more times to unsucessfully start the engine, the ECU enters "LOCK MODE".
If the ignition key is in the "ON" position and the security indicator LED(on the clock) is ON(doesn't blink), the NVIS is triggered by one of numerous possiblities but it's probably the chip in the key.
There are TWO possible solutions:
1)Try to escape from LOCK MODE,MUST USE A GOOD KEY and perform the following:
a.Turn ignition switch to "OFF".
b.Turn ignition switch to "ON" with GOOD key.(Do NOT start engine.) Wait 5 seconds.
c.Return key to "OFF".
d.Repeat steps b and c TWICE(total of three cycles).
e.Start the engine.
2)If 1) didn't work it MUST be towed into Nissan to have ALL the keys wiped and reprogrammed with the ECU.

 

not quite as easy as an s13/s14 swap but its still pretty easy

 

Read the postings (read them over and over) on this thread and others out there on changing the filter & you'll get the idea and pointers. I have done my filter w/ no catastrophes and that is the first time I have ever done a fuel filter. (Makes me proud )

However, that plastic housing unit for me was the biggest PITA. Trying to get the hose clips to compress and get the hose off the connnection WITHOUT breaking the plastic all around or bending the fuel level arm was so ANNOYING. Maybe I was just too careful, but I read lots of nono's because of the cheap plastic.

Instead of an hour I think it took 4-5 hours all because of those clips and me trying not to break the housing and spend $$$$ to save a few dollars. It'd be a ****** if it weren't for those clips!!

 

i am having this excactly same issue!!!

how did you fix it? please help

 

^bump

 

What are you "bumping" it for... the answer to your question is a few posts above yours, and a few below the one you quoted. READ!