My "Brake" light and battery symbol light came on at the same time. Brake fluid is up to max level, I tapped on the reservoir to make sure the float switch wasn't stuck. Brake pads are good and thick. Parking brake lever is fully down and parking brake operates properly. I checked the (2 yr old)battery, it's at full charge, the alternator belt is tight and relatively new. Any suggestions? 03 Max XE with 178K miles

 

The alternator belt might be too tight. More likely the alternator itself is bad. Is that the original alternator? Usually it'll start with the lights on the dask and then slowly you'll notice less power to the point that the car will eventually just die on you.

 

You are correct! The wife just called and said that the Max lost power as she came home entering our neighborhood. She was able to coast into our driveway when it finally stalled (gosh she lucky!). She tried to start it but the battery was dead. I guess I'm headed to NAPA for an alternator this evening.

 

Sounds like a fun weekend project

 

Note to self: Brake and battery light on at the same time = new alternator time

 

Truth.

The voltage regulator (inside the alternator) in our 2001 SE failed. Car was running over 18VDC through it's electrical system, and I can confirm that you will see the brake and battery lights at the same time.

This is a good thing to know.

 

Semi no brainer, battery light = alternator.

 

I recently installed an Optima Redtop in my 03 SE, and now every once in a while when I start the car cold the battery light will come on for a few seconds and then disappear. No power loss ever occurs. The battery is at full charge, and the car starts without any fuss. The car has it's original alt and currently has 72000mi. Is my alt about to crap out?

 

Electrical issues:

I have a 2001 Maximal SE with a bit over 100,00o miles on it, and I am the original owner. This past week the battery light and brake light came on and would not turn off. I did a search on the forum and there were numerous threads that pointed to a problem with the alternator. I went to advanced auto parts and they tested it while still in the car, it failed. So I ripped out the alternator (what a chore) and brought it back to advanced auto parts to be tested in the store which is a more accurate test. It tested perfectly.

So out of the blue I purchased a new serpentine belt while in the store. I put everything back together and installed the new belt. The car started right up and the battery & brake lights turned off. Problem solved…..not really.

I have been driving around town all weekend, about 40 miles total with no issues. But today the car stalled / shut down two times while making right hand turns. But the car started right back up without even having to stop. I was wondering if there was any chance I installed the belt wrong, maybe the tension is too tight.



Tim

 

Probably too tight. Too tight or too loose and you'll have issues. I usually leave it on the loose side but not too loose. It's easy enough to tighten it if it starts squealing

 

I will losen it up a bit then and test it out for a few days

 

more likely the "in store" test was faulty.....or you have a short someplace. If you read the FSM, that light combination has several causes, including wiring short. Usually there's a way to test it for sure, but those procedures are in the FSM. Check the stickies for the download (or get it on VQpower.com) and do the testing....

 

The in-store test could be faulty. But then why after I installed the new belt with the old Alternator did all of the battery & brake lights go away? I also brough my car back to AAP to have the battery tested after I installed the belt to make sure it was ok. That also tested right on spec.

A short could be a possibility.....but I hope not!

 

check your battery it could have a bad cell or more!

 

the process of removing and then reinstalling your alternator probably got rid of the light. you could have just had some corrosion or a loose connection. the same thing happened to me but i won't be surprised if that is also an early warning that the alty is going bad.

 

any help find that FSM and the procedures to test the system out would be greatlt appreciated.

This evening I readjusted the tension on the belt and took the car for a spin with out any problems. On my way back I stopped in at Avanaced Auto Parts to have the battery tested. The battery tested find, so I had him check the Alt. again. The alt test would finish as the machine read an error that said "no output detected". But while the test was running the tested was reading almost 17 amps. So I my mind the alt. is working as the battery is rated for 12.4. After the test was done and I restarted the car the battery light and brake light were back on and did not turn off...WTF Could the test have drained the battery? Should I re-charge the Battery? I am leary of plunking down $180 for a new alt. until I am sure that is the problem. So far I have an inpstore bench test that passed two times putting out over 15amps. I also have an in car test tonight that didn't finish but was reading out at almost 17amps.


Tim

 

Have you looked for shorts?

 

Nope, and I have no idea how to either.

 

I had the charging system tested at my garage this morning, only cost $30. The Alt. is dead, bad diode. I am going to yank it out today and replace. Aparently the equipment my garage has is much better than what AutoZone or AAP use.

 

i just had the same thing happen to me a couple days ago....first i got that whining, whirring and grinding noise...followed by a burning wire smell, i cut the car off. I first thought it was something in my ENGINE!

Then i cut it back on, and what do ya kno, NO WHIRING, NO GRINING, but the battery light was on, then i disengaged the ebrake and it stayed on.....SO after digging through the manual, i find that that combo. of lights = alternator...which means open circuit....
Swapped it the next day for a remanufactured duralast one at autozone, all "SEEMS" good