Figured I would post in the 5th gen section.. I have a swapped vehicle, using A33B VQ35 ECU, harness and engine.. I have the key programmed, and no codes are present, but, I am getting no spark. I have fuel.. as all of the plugs have fuel on them after cranking.. but, no spark whatsoever.. The coils have power and ground, and I traced the signal wire back to the ECU for all 6.. everything appears in order on the wiring side.. No crank or cam sensor codes.. I'm thinking bad ECU..?

Travis

 

Isn't this the car that previously ran? What has happened?

 

Nah.. this one has never run.. I do 1-2 per month.. This one is fresh.. just trying to get it to crank up. I've never run into a fuel, but no spark situation..

 

So did you use Consult II with the NATS card to program the key?

You may still have immobilizer issues. I think that only using the NATS software will you be able to detect that code. I don't think it comes up using the regular Consult II menu.

 

Yeah.. I have the diagnostics and NATS cards.. I programmed the key with NATS card, and cycled the key about 20 times, with no codes.. so we're good there.. The diagnostics check only shows a few misc. emissions codes (Evap, and such). Nothing critical that would keep the engine from starting.

Travis

 

Well, you do realize that the final step of the key initialization procedure is to start the car? So if the car did not ever start, then perhaps the procedure did not take. The cycling of the key has nothing to do with it.

 

Whether or not the engine actually starts has no bearing on whether or not the IMMU/ECU accept the transponder key. Power cycling ECU/IMMU with the correct key is sufficient. If, after 5 attempts, the system doesn't lock down, then, you know that you've got it programmed correctly.

Travis

 

I guess I didn't know that.

The only way I have ever confirmed proper programming is when the engine starts.

 

Nah.. you just have to cycle the key once (allowing the ECCS relay to fully turn off.. which takes about 3 seconds).

I got the car to start.. Turns out.. there's more than one hall effect sensor that will bolt in for the Crank position sensor.. I figured that they were all the same.. but, they're not. If you rotate the sensor.. it gives a different reading, or none at all. I had a cam position sensor installed, and it was sideways.. It didn't throw a code, but, it didn't give the correct signal to the ECU. I noticed that while cranking.. my timing was -7 degrees.. I went to Nissan and grabbed a maxima crank sensor, and installed it.. and it fired right up.

So.. long story made short.. a cam position sensor will bolt in, but, will not read properly. Also, it will not throw a code, for some reason..

Travis

 

cam sensor ugg

 

So.. it runs.. but, it takes a good 4-5 seconds of cranking for it to start. I am throwing a crank position sensor circuit code. I have checked the harness back to the ECU, and can't find any fault. It turns out, the sensor that I have in there is turned a different direction than the one that's supposed to be in there. It's not reading the sensor for some reason.. but, My God.. how hard could it be?! It's just a hall effect sensor!

On the consult.. I don't see any RPM signal when I'm cranking.. after about 4-5 seconds.. both cam sensors show 63 degrees, and the the RPM starts reading. I'm thinking that after so many seconds of cranking.. the ECU looking at the cam sensors, and figures out where number 1 TDC is..

Travis

 

yes it will show actually.

 

Any other ideas as far as the crank sensor? I've tried a new one from Nissan.. It wasn't the exact part number.. (didn't have the right one in stock), but, it should work just the same...? It's just a magnetic pickup..

I still get a crank position sensor circuit code.. and no RPM shown on the consult when I crank. After 4-5 seconds of cranking.. the cam position sensors jump from zero to 63*, and then, the RPM starts to read. The engine fires up at this time.

I think that after so many seconds.. the cam sensors figure out where number 1 TDC is, and calculate a firing order. I talked to JWT, and they confirmed this.. So, I checked the harness, back to the ECU for the crank position sensor.. and all is good there..

I have another ECU on order.. but, I'm still thinking that maybe we have the wrong sensor installed..

Travis

 

Does it run with no problems, or does it misfire and like to bog out?

 

It runs fine.. It's a little slow, because the VTC isn't working (doesn't work when the ECU runs solely off of the cam sensors), but, it doesn't misfire or bog..

Travis

 

Ah, okay. Was going to say, we had a customer come in recently (with a self installed APS ST kit...that should say enough) that somehow managed to get the flywheel fully bolted down 3 bolts clockwise of where it should've been (for that timing dowel). It ran, but not all too well, took forever to start up, showed ~-10 degrees of cam timing at idle.

 

heh.. gotta love that.. JWT epoxies the hole that's not supposed to be used.. since one flywheel is made for the FWD and RWD VQ35.. I always make sure to double check, too.. I'm showing 63 degrees of cam timing while cranking.. but, no RPM signal from the crank position sensor.

 

hello..i have a 04 nissan maxima,,in shop...it flashed tdc p0021 and p0300...i know what they are..but ihave another issue..i have replaced the throttle body actuator and still no signal goin to the ignition coils...when i probe the ignition signal wire there is no signal at all..could this be a theft deterrant issue or do i need to test the ecm?
unfortunatley the scan tool ihave has not been updated in probly a few years thanks to the owner,,and for some odd reason no one can get it through his head that it needs to be done..but i do not have the applications in there to read the misfire data..or go into the theft detterant system...any ideas...

thanks shawn