E-brake & rear caliper question
#1
E-brake & rear caliper question
I was changing my rims this weekend so I had the e-brake on and I was jacking up individual corners to replace the wheels. When I jacked up the driver's side rear wheel it spun freely even though I had the e-brake engaged.
The e-brake cable isn't snapped or anyting. As a matter of fact it looked like it pulled the spring back as far as the passenger side.
Could it be a bad caliper causing my e-brake not to work? I noticed that the pads look thin and the rotor is grooved so I'm going to replace them but do I need to replace the caliper too? Or is there just an adjustment I can make for the driver's side e-brake?
The e-brake cable isn't snapped or anyting. As a matter of fact it looked like it pulled the spring back as far as the passenger side.
Could it be a bad caliper causing my e-brake not to work? I noticed that the pads look thin and the rotor is grooved so I'm going to replace them but do I need to replace the caliper too? Or is there just an adjustment I can make for the driver's side e-brake?
#3
OP: Sounds like you need new rear pads at the least. When you replace them, in order to retract the caliper piston, you have to turn it clockwise to make it retract. If you can't turn it, then you're due for a caliper rebuild also. (I just use some big channel-lock pliers.) If it will turn, but it won't go in, then you have 2 options: Open the bleeder screw and try it again, and then if that doesn't work, turn the piston counterclockwise to remove it from the caliper completely. Then you can clean it all up and put it back together (with new seals, if it appears it's been leaking). Just use new brake fluid for lube, and screw it back in clockwise. Align the nub on the pad with the notch on the piston, and then bleed it after reassembly. You should then be good to go. You can buy parts at Advance Auto Parts or other places - you don't have to go to Nissan for the seals and such.
#4
I just use some big channel-lock pliers.) If it will turn, but it won't go in, then you have 2 options: Open the bleeder screw and try it again, and then if that doesn't work, turn the piston counterclockwise to remove it from the caliper completely. Then you can clean it all up and put it back together (with new seals, if it appears it's been leaking). Just use new brake fluid for lube, and screw it back in clockwise. Align the nub on the pad with the notch on the piston, and then bleed it after reassembly. You should then be good to go. You can buy parts at Advance Auto Parts or other places - you don't have to go to Nissan for the seals and such.
Last edited by Parthur; 06-30-2008 at 09:19 AM.
#5
Is the Ebrake 100% mechanical? I replaced my pads and rotors and had alot of difficulty with the rear right caliper. This was a little while ago and now when the ebrake is pulled, my rear right wheel is able to spin. I have adjusted the cable but it still spins. The caliper does its job and works when applying the brake pedal but like I said, the Ebrake does not work. I am wondering if I just shot some mechanical device in the caliper and need a new one or if there is a fix.
The left one works fine.
The left one works fine.
#6
It is 100% mechanical.
the cable attaches to the caliper and operates a lever to hold pressure on the piston.
I recently had a problem w/ my left wheel spinning and the right holding, replaced the pads/rotors and it works fine.
..Check to make sure the cable is still connected to the caliper (it comes off easily)
..Check the exposed spring / lever for damage
..did you replace your rotors? if not check the inside for deep grooves or corrosion
..if the caliper was done I'd imagine you'd have a pull under braking?
I noticed a problem on the rear pads sticking and wearing out / warping rotors.
especially on the insides of the rotors. It seems the floating design of the caliper can sometimes cause it to rub the rotors causing the uneven wear/warped rotors.
which would leave one pad worn out and one not so the caliper could not fully hold the wheel.
I haven't figured out how to stop it though, I replace rear brakes every 20k and almost never brake hard / frequently (all highway driving)
the cable attaches to the caliper and operates a lever to hold pressure on the piston.
I recently had a problem w/ my left wheel spinning and the right holding, replaced the pads/rotors and it works fine.
..Check to make sure the cable is still connected to the caliper (it comes off easily)
..Check the exposed spring / lever for damage
..did you replace your rotors? if not check the inside for deep grooves or corrosion
..if the caliper was done I'd imagine you'd have a pull under braking?
I noticed a problem on the rear pads sticking and wearing out / warping rotors.
especially on the insides of the rotors. It seems the floating design of the caliper can sometimes cause it to rub the rotors causing the uneven wear/warped rotors.
which would leave one pad worn out and one not so the caliper could not fully hold the wheel.
I haven't figured out how to stop it though, I replace rear brakes every 20k and almost never brake hard / frequently (all highway driving)
#7
the piston operated by the ebrake lever CAN go bad and still have the hydraulic part of the caliper work fine.
btw, to whoever suggested it above, the 5th gen does NOT have an internal drum on the rear wheels - that's only on the 6th gens and newer....
I would just replace the caliper. They cost <$100 at autozone and are easy to do...
btw, to whoever suggested it above, the 5th gen does NOT have an internal drum on the rear wheels - that's only on the 6th gens and newer....
I would just replace the caliper. They cost <$100 at autozone and are easy to do...
#8
I agree with Irish, ebrake is all mech and built into the the rear caliper on 5.5s. Dnt waste your time trying to rebuild it, just replace it. It's cheap and easy. IME these Maxima rear calipers are disposeable. They dnt last long and dnt take to abuse well.
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