3D2kMax

Hi all, car developing problem. it is a 2000 se max auto with 108k miles auto. Last tuneup was a months ago, every run fine til this evening, while on the highway with stop and go traffic, i noticed that the car feels like it is trying to accelerate when i let go of the brakes. It was hot but there were hotter days, temp guage was normal. did not see and deflection from the normal. and with each braking action it feels like the transmission was getting slammed into the engine. once i was moving again, it felt normal, when i was able to park the car, the idle rpm shot up to pass 2000+ rpm, i quickly turn of the engine. let it sit a few minutes and restarted the car and idle was hovering a little below 1000 but that is still high for an engine at operating temp. I was not using the AC. so it can not be the fast idle unit. After i got home, i rev the engine a few time while in Park and everything was normal, Both electric fan was running, as expected. Maybe it is a heat related problem.?? My bro car which was a Mazda MVP had a simalr problem but it was a temp sensor that was bad and so the pcm think the engine is cold, but Maxima don't have a temperature sensor for govenoring the idle that i can tell from the repair manual. Or maybe i missed that reading. There was no code thrown. Any ideas?
TIA
--Jack

ShippedOut

iTrader: (1)

I have the same "and with each braking action it feels like the transmission was getting slammed into the engine" and "i noticed that the car feels like it is trying to accelerate when i let go of the brakes" but only when im in HOT stop and go traffic and then when im driving for a long distance it goes back to morn. Never really thought anything of it.

3D2kMax

ShippedOut, how long have this happened to you? Yesterday was the worst that i have experienced it, It was there before yesterday but it was very minor in the sense that the idle would be rough when i am in stop and go traffic like the kind you sit thru as you pass an accident scene. But i never thought anything of it too. Maybe it is getting worst. Well, it have to be related to heat because sitting in traffic builds up heat.
Thank for reply.
--Jack

caroro

3DKMAX, did you ever fix the problem?, I own a 2001 20th aniv and it has started doing what you descirbed...always a surge of rpm after been on traffic for a while

3D2kMax

No, i have not found a fix for this problem. The issue is less with these really cold temperature we are having. so it maybe a sensor that is the cause. If post back if i have anything.

murphy390

Guys, I had the exact same problem but on my 2000 Camry 4 cyl. Turns out the problem was the ECT. (I replaced the IAC but that didn't solve the problem.) It would run fine then spike and hold at 2K for 2 to 20 minutes and then go back to normal idle. $10 part for the Camry so it can't be much more for the Max. Only took 10 minutes to swap on the Camry.

D's036spd

iTrader: (1)

I would say first thing is try to do the idle air relearn process including the throttle closed position and the other one, forget what it's called though... Could also be the gas pedal position sensor(Had to get that replaced on my car through warranty though).

Doso

I'm getting the same problem with my Maxima, it's summer here in Australia so every time i spend 5+ mins in traffic the ideal speed goes upto 1500+ (sometimes goes to 2000 then drops to 1500 and repeats over and over)

anyone else got any ideas what the hell is causing it?

murphy390

My money's on the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. When they go bad they tell the ECM the engine is cold so the RPMs then are increased to get it up to operating temperature.

billygeg

I have a similar problem with my 2001 maxima...It happens all the time as soon as I start the car the idel jumps to and from 1000-1500 rpm...Drivinbg me nuts! Anyone figure out the pro yet?

billygeg

post

3D2kMax

I replaced the Engine Coolant Temp sensor, no resolution. tested TPS and had erratic reading, replaced it. Engine does not surge anymore. it does jump a little but comes back down to about 900 rpm. trying to have the ECU relearn the TPS setting with the method of turning the keys to "on" ,wait 5 sec, turn to "off" wait 10 sec and repeat for 20 times. Did not work. Not sure if it is the IACV will have to look to see how to test that next. Now the car still not running 100% right. The Transmission still does not run correctly. Top of the morning, it drive fine. but int he after noon, after driving for 1/2 hours , then park and drive again. it is like it does not know when to shift. when i go to accelerate, it would lag. when i come to a stop, the tranny would bump. like it got a delayed signal to shift down. It is an auto tranny.

will let you know what i find.
--Jack

Wildcat_Max

Jack, Check your motor mounts, both front (radiator side) & rear (firewall side). Last summer I had similar problems and found out that both mounts were bad. Thanks to Dave B for his quick advice.

JustinXtlr

I have had the same problem over the last six months. But mine dosent stop at 2k rpm. It will redline itself. I have only let it do this once because I was curious as to where it was gonna decide to stop. It never goes down though. I have to shut off the car. BUT now I have a new problem. When my car is park it will shut off? It will idel fine. but then just quitely cut off, not jerking,sounds,signs of it doing. Only does it in park? 2k max auto 118k.

Any ideas??

EDIT* When i replaced my MAF should I of done a ECU reset or whatever its called around here.

Anity

I have experienced something i believe is very similar to your guys' description. My car has no problems starting and driving(knock on wood) although this has happened three times where i put my car in park or neutral and without my foot on the gas it revs to 1800 then down to 1500 then back up and repeats this until i put it in drive, reverse, 1st or 2nd or shut off car. One time it even went up to 3000 then 2600 and repeated until one of those previous actions took place. I'm curious what the problem is and how to solve it although it has proven to be just a minor issue. I also have a A/C problem where my A/C blows normal air if cold start and engine hot air if warmed up. I think its the A/C clutch because it has a strange humming noise until A/C is pressed to suppress the hum sound. If any answers to either problems please let me know.
-Thank You Pm appreciated 2k Max 105k miles

3D2kMax

WildCat_Max, I am not getting an CEL. There is a little squeeking sounds when i shift. so i did wonder if it is the mount that needs alittle grease! Maybe i will try unplugging it.

Thanks for the heads up.

Wildcat_Max

Mark you're right, you'll not get CEL but just squeaking sound. I don't think grease would do any better. When I took out my old mounts out, just by looking at them I can tell how bad they were. I would try unplugging them first and if the problem does goes away, replace them with new ones. There were few posts about ECM getting burned due to bad motor mounts. I hope this helps.

3D2kMax

I disconnected the engine mount and the car actuall feel like it drove a little better. but after a week, the problem is still there. i have also noticed that there is buzzing/humming sound in the area just behind the gas door. it seem to be emulating from the black plastic box under the truck. The mystery continues!

edit: Just wondering, have anyone removed and cleaned just the stepper motor with out taking out the whole tb/IAC assembly?

CraigsMax01

iTrader: (8)

this just started happening to me, i have had it happen before but went away.
today it did it all day.
starts fine, then as i start to drive i can feel the car staying at speed when i get off the gas. then when i stop, the car wants to go, when in neutral or park, it bounces from 1500 to 2000 and will keep doing that.
251k miles 01 auto.
probably needs a tune up but i havent seen a definate answer yet.
any info, thanks

kpmikey808

i had a similar problem-my speed sensor was bad

sontakke

Check all the vacuum hoses underneath. A large intake leak will have surging idle. You might even be able to hear the hissing sound under the hood. Google on how to use throttle body cleaner to find the vacuum leaks. Be careful and don't burn your car!

- Vikas

CraigsMax01

iTrader: (8)

speed sensor on the steering hub/knuckle? where the wheel bearings are located?

CraigsMax01

iTrader: (8)

im guessing the chemical will burn the paint? or worse

sontakke

If you end up spraying on hot exhaust manifold, there is a possibility that the cleaner itself will catch on fire. Probability is small but you need to be warned. It is preferred to use hand held propane tank but not everybody has one around.

- Vikas

CraigsMax01

iTrader: (8)

ah man, i had the chance to grab one the other day and was like, what do i need that for, LOL, figures.
i will definately work on it cold.
hope to dig in tomorrow. thanks alot.
i will look for vaccum leaks first, then go from there.

pattyt

I have had the exact same problem as all of you have. I have an 01 i30 and everytime ot got really hot outside the rpm would surge uncontrolably. Finally one day I stopped to see what was happening and I saw the my throttle was literally being pulled and the car was trying to accelerate. The fix; so simple I had a good laugh, the cable to the cruise control unit was too tight and for some reason when it got hot the cruise control unit would tug at the cable. I loosened the cable a bit to the cruise control ( still works fine ) and never had a problem since. Try this out and see if it works. I don't really still know why the cruise control was tugging on the cable but I'm not willing to spend the money to find out.

Lemme know if this helps you guys.

Edit - additional info: I just moved the two nuts over adjusting the slack on the cruise control cable at the throttle linkage. hope that paints a brighter picture.

CraigsMax01

iTrader: (8)

thanks a lot man! i did check my cable yesterday but the motor was too hot to really get in there. i will see today

OC_Nooby

iTrader: (11)

Have the same issue on a 4th gen with 00VI, happened the first time I went down the 1/4 mile. It just revved itself up when I was coasting. Know it happens all the time...It will just stay at 2k rpm every time I push the clutch in. It idles fine, Just when you drive it doesn't go under 2k rpm for a while. It will hover around 2k RPM then go to 1500RPM then back to normal.

I believe it can be either the TPS or IACV. I changed out the TPS with the same issue, so it has to be the IACV. I also changed the coolant temperature sensor, not the one that we see on the gauge but the one for the ECU.

Youraveragekit

hey guys, i had the same problem. coming to any stop, my car would spike to over 2000 rpms. try putting the car in park and floor the gas quickly, and it might go down a bit, works sometimes for me. i noticed that the accelerator cable connected to the throttle body would get stuck and if my rpms spiked, and i went under the hood and pulled it a bit, it would go back down. i greased the cable a bit and now it works fine. hope this helps a bit. havent had this problem in a while.

CraigsMax01

iTrader: (8)

i replaced the entire throttle body complete with TPS and IACV, FIXED

iauditu

I'm have the same problem. I took it to a mechanic and he said that my IACV was bad and that it also damaged the ECM, but did not specify how when I questioned him. I asked him if a malfunction could send a spike in voltage from the IACV to the ECM and just as I suspected he agreed. Any thoughts on if the ECM could be damaged by the IACV? I'm doing the work myself and would rather fix it all at once.

OC_Nooby

iTrader: (11)

I just replaced the IACV. It helped as it doesn't rev to 2k rpm anymore but it still does it a little bit 1.3k or so. Not as bad but still there. Maybe I'll just use the damn 4th gen IACV and see if it helps (00VI swapped). Not sure about an ECU swap, but it could help?

iauditu

Check out this thread: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...d-seconds.html

Apparently this is a very common problem with 5th Gen's and your ECU could actually be fried due to the electronic motor mounts (on automatic transmissions only)...may not be the problem but just in case something else pops up. I'm going to check mine out tomorrow.

OC_Nooby

iTrader: (11)

My motor mount is disconnected, was disconnected a while back because my brother told me of this issue. 4th gens are also suffering from this problem.

Could be motor mount but if the IACV was toast or the circuit that deals with the IACV is toast then the idle would be wonky and all over the place from the beginning. This to me happens when I'm slowing down or push the clutch in. Not at Idle, only when I come to an Idle.

A lot of you have this issue with the Auto, I was Auto but switched to 5-Speed. Still have the issue? Maybe due to my Auto ECU?

alcala87

I have run into similar concerns several times on 5 gen maximas. On that style of IACV there is a small gasket that keeps coolant from getting into the actual valve/electrical part. When that seal goes bad, coolant can get into the electrical portion of the valve making the IACV fail and also shorts out the ECM. Although i have seen the motor mounts take out the ECM, it seems more common for that small seal to go out. What i recommend to repair is a new IACV, gasket, and ECM(new or known good used). After all parts installed...head to the dealer to do idle air volume learn procedure. Hope my input is helpful.

OC_Nooby

iTrader: (11)

If that gasket goes your coolant level would be low as it will be sucked into the intake.

In any case I replaced all those gaskets with fresh new ones a month back. ....Issue persists

alcala87

if that gasket has failed then the damage to the IACV and ECM has already been done and wouldn't be reversed by just replacing that gasket.

OC_Nooby

iTrader: (11)

I haven't had it fail. I replaced it just as a maintenance thing. I replaced pretty much all the main gaskets on the manifold. Your correct if it was to fail it would cause a nightmare.

My issue and many others is not caused due to the ECM being fried by the IACV or fried by the Motor Mounts. Its being cause by something else, I think.

OC_Nooby

iTrader: (11)

are people just living with this? I know I can't

OC_Nooby

iTrader: (11)

:'(