Just finished installing Tokico Illumina's on my i35, impressions and some questions
#1
Just finished installing Tokico Illumina's on my i35, impressions and some questions
Posted this in the I35 forum, thought I would post it here as well
Well, it took me all day on Tuesday, but I did it, feel a really great sense of accomplishment!!
Its a 2002 I35 with Sport Package, which had a stock ride that leaves a lot to be desired. I don't
know if it was that my stock shocks were just plain bad or if it was the normal for this car. It basically
was an extremely bouncy and floaty ride, something that I didn't expect from the sport package. Anyway I
replaced all four corners with Tokico illumina's and kept the stock springs.
I used all the basic tools (torque wrench, breaker bar, sockets, etc) and I had a clamshell style spring compressor from Harbor Freight. Once I had the front on stands it was pretty easy to get the struts out. The one thing I would highly reccomend for anyone attempting this job is a vise to hold the strut assembly while compressing. I didn't have it and it was a PITA to compress it, but I got it done. I replaced the bump stops,
upper strut mounts and was going to replace the bearings, but the new strut bearings I got from the dealer were metal and completely different then the stock ones, I was unable to get them to perfectly fit into the piece under the upper strut mount, so I ended up cleaning up my old ones and reusing them, I am hoping that they don't go bad. Has anyone tried to use the newer style bearings ?
The rears were just as straight forward as the front, what I ended up doing is lifting the car from the center of the axle beam and then placing the stands on each side. I was unsure of how the beam would react when I took out the the top nuts so I kept the jack underneath holding the beam up but not holding the weight of the car. THe top hat nut on the rears was a PITA to remove also, but I was able to leverage my open ended wrench and a plier to get the job done. The illumina rears came with two nuts for the top hat,
I was not sure why so I only used one, IS this ok ? do I need to use both nuts ?.
Once I had everything back together, It was time for the test ride. funny thing about this part wsa that I forgot to remove my wheel chocks, and the car would not move. The split second before I realized they chock's were still there, I though to myself WTF did I screw up on my car ? the relief of realizing it was the chocks was refreshing. So I got the car out all corners set to 5, what a world of difference in the ride, the is
a VERY noticable difference in braking and acceleration due to less dive. The The car was handling really good and very controlled on large dips in the highway unlike before and to my surprise no suspension noises after the install! Was very happy about that. I went back today and set the car to 3 on allcorners and I though that this was the best setting so far, not too rough and just the right amount of stiffness for me.
One thing that I did notice was that the left front bearing might be bad. When I put the rim back on there was a lot of axial play on the assembly, going to have a mechanic take a look at that tomorrow. I didn't think ti check thisw before when I started so I am not sure if this problem happened as a result of letting the taking everything apart ( although I did put a second jack under there to hold it up )
Well, it took me all day on Tuesday, but I did it, feel a really great sense of accomplishment!!
Its a 2002 I35 with Sport Package, which had a stock ride that leaves a lot to be desired. I don't
know if it was that my stock shocks were just plain bad or if it was the normal for this car. It basically
was an extremely bouncy and floaty ride, something that I didn't expect from the sport package. Anyway I
replaced all four corners with Tokico illumina's and kept the stock springs.
I used all the basic tools (torque wrench, breaker bar, sockets, etc) and I had a clamshell style spring compressor from Harbor Freight. Once I had the front on stands it was pretty easy to get the struts out. The one thing I would highly reccomend for anyone attempting this job is a vise to hold the strut assembly while compressing. I didn't have it and it was a PITA to compress it, but I got it done. I replaced the bump stops,
upper strut mounts and was going to replace the bearings, but the new strut bearings I got from the dealer were metal and completely different then the stock ones, I was unable to get them to perfectly fit into the piece under the upper strut mount, so I ended up cleaning up my old ones and reusing them, I am hoping that they don't go bad. Has anyone tried to use the newer style bearings ?
The rears were just as straight forward as the front, what I ended up doing is lifting the car from the center of the axle beam and then placing the stands on each side. I was unsure of how the beam would react when I took out the the top nuts so I kept the jack underneath holding the beam up but not holding the weight of the car. THe top hat nut on the rears was a PITA to remove also, but I was able to leverage my open ended wrench and a plier to get the job done. The illumina rears came with two nuts for the top hat,
I was not sure why so I only used one, IS this ok ? do I need to use both nuts ?.
Once I had everything back together, It was time for the test ride. funny thing about this part wsa that I forgot to remove my wheel chocks, and the car would not move. The split second before I realized they chock's were still there, I though to myself WTF did I screw up on my car ? the relief of realizing it was the chocks was refreshing. So I got the car out all corners set to 5, what a world of difference in the ride, the is
a VERY noticable difference in braking and acceleration due to less dive. The The car was handling really good and very controlled on large dips in the highway unlike before and to my surprise no suspension noises after the install! Was very happy about that. I went back today and set the car to 3 on allcorners and I though that this was the best setting so far, not too rough and just the right amount of stiffness for me.
One thing that I did notice was that the left front bearing might be bad. When I put the rim back on there was a lot of axial play on the assembly, going to have a mechanic take a look at that tomorrow. I didn't think ti check thisw before when I started so I am not sure if this problem happened as a result of letting the taking everything apart ( although I did put a second jack under there to hold it up )
#4
Good to hear others are installing the Tokico illumina shocks. My right front stock was shot especially after hitting an aluminum roof rack at 60mph.
I had installed them this past weekend and left off that second nut thinking, "it must be an extra one." Who here has put together your children's bikes and bbq grilles and came up with extra parts and screws?!!!
I tried 3f/4r and didn't like the bounce.
Now I'm on 4f/4r and like the tight feel on the turns and experience the same as Kevin with a VERY noticable difference in braking and acceleration due to less dive.
l8r
I had installed them this past weekend and left off that second nut thinking, "it must be an extra one." Who here has put together your children's bikes and bbq grilles and came up with extra parts and screws?!!!
I tried 3f/4r and didn't like the bounce.
Now I'm on 4f/4r and like the tight feel on the turns and experience the same as Kevin with a VERY noticable difference in braking and acceleration due to less dive.
l8r
#5
thanks for the kudo's guys, looks like I'll be putting that extra jamnut on tomorrow, makes sense actually. one thing that is annyoing is having to open the liner up to get to the adjustments screw.
Anyone know the deal with the bearing ? Did I maybe get the wrong part? the one that was sent to me was a metal one about the same size as the plastic bearing, but metal and about 3/8" thicker. Could not get it to fit into the piece that mounts into the strut mount.
Anyone know the deal with the bearing ? Did I maybe get the wrong part? the one that was sent to me was a metal one about the same size as the plastic bearing, but metal and about 3/8" thicker. Could not get it to fit into the piece that mounts into the strut mount.
#6
Also I bought this jack from amazon, it freaking rocks!
![](http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31xnqTwBd2L._SS500_.jpg)
I could not get the front up tires up off the floor with my old floor jack from the center lift point, so I bought that one from Amazon, which has a range from 2.5 Inches to 20 Inches, the only think is that this sucker is heavy, about 100lbs.
![](http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31xnqTwBd2L._SS500_.jpg)
I could not get the front up tires up off the floor with my old floor jack from the center lift point, so I bought that one from Amazon, which has a range from 2.5 Inches to 20 Inches, the only think is that this sucker is heavy, about 100lbs.
#9
I had HP on my max with stock springs and I liked the feel of the front struts but the backs were way too soft. One thing I noticed was they dampened very well compared to the stock se shocks and handled well. I purchased some brand new oem se shocks recently and put them on cause I just couldn't get passed how unstable the rear felt. I am very happy with the stock struts even though they don't dampen as well and give a harsher ride......
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