I did my sway bar end links last night.
The replacement parts I used were MOOG.
Part numbers:
Left: K90432
Right: K90431
Here is a simple how to I used:
- Jack up front of car and use jackstands for additional support.
- Remove both front wheels.
- Remove existing sway bar end links. This is a 14mm bolt and you will need another 15mm(IIRC need to confirm) to hold the other end of the bolt to completely remove it.
- To install the MOOG is a pain. The backend nut on the Moog end link is 19mm and it is very thin. The front nut on the Moog is 15mm.
- You will need either a bicycle wrench or a set of small vise grips to hold that 19mm as a standard wrench will not let you tighten it. I bought a set of small vise grips from sears. Here is a link to it. You can hold the 19mm nut with the vise grips as to tighten the 15mm front nut.
- The torque specs for both upper and lower nuts is ~40ft-lbs.
My original were not all that bad but definately had loosened up over 167K miles. I did not have any noises etc but I did have the looseness going over uneven roads and small bumps i.e. steering felt loose.
I took her out for a test drive and was really impressed. The front end feels super tight now
Got an alignment this morning and am thoroughly impressed as to how tight the car feels even in a straight line on the I'state.
In the course of the last 2 years the parts replaced on the front end:
new LCA's dealer matched online price: $220 for both
new strut mounts and boots(KYB) importrp: $115
new inner and outer tie rods: ~$200
swapped to illuminas and H&R: ~$600
and now new end links n sway bar bushing: ~50
def not bad for a car with 167K on her.
We plan to keep this car as our road trip ride. It tops my 330ci for long drive and I'state comfort! especially when we do our twice a yr FL->NJ trips.
I did all the work myself so no labor.. just beer!
I didnt find any post on here which mentioned about the issue while installing the MOOG's so I thought I'd post this just in case someone else gets stuck and may not have another ride to go buy tools.
Cheers!
The replacement parts I used were MOOG.
Part numbers:
Left: K90432
Right: K90431
Here is a simple how to I used:
- Jack up front of car and use jackstands for additional support.
- Remove both front wheels.
- Remove existing sway bar end links. This is a 14mm bolt and you will need another 15mm(IIRC need to confirm) to hold the other end of the bolt to completely remove it.
- To install the MOOG is a pain. The backend nut on the Moog end link is 19mm and it is very thin. The front nut on the Moog is 15mm.
- You will need either a bicycle wrench or a set of small vise grips to hold that 19mm as a standard wrench will not let you tighten it. I bought a set of small vise grips from sears. Here is a link to it. You can hold the 19mm nut with the vise grips as to tighten the 15mm front nut.
- The torque specs for both upper and lower nuts is ~40ft-lbs.
My original were not all that bad but definately had loosened up over 167K miles. I did not have any noises etc but I did have the looseness going over uneven roads and small bumps i.e. steering felt loose.
I took her out for a test drive and was really impressed. The front end feels super tight now
Got an alignment this morning and am thoroughly impressed as to how tight the car feels even in a straight line on the I'state.In the course of the last 2 years the parts replaced on the front end:
new LCA's dealer matched online price: $220 for both
new strut mounts and boots(KYB) importrp: $115
new inner and outer tie rods: ~$200
swapped to illuminas and H&R: ~$600
and now new end links n sway bar bushing: ~50
def not bad for a car with 167K on her.
We plan to keep this car as our road trip ride. It tops my 330ci for long drive and I'state comfort! especially when we do our twice a yr FL->NJ trips.
I did all the work myself so no labor.. just beer!
I didnt find any post on here which mentioned about the issue while installing the MOOG's so I thought I'd post this just in case someone else gets stuck and may not have another ride to go buy tools.
Cheers!
Junior Member
I am confused, but hey it happens. I just replaced mine with the same part numbers and they were easy as can be. The backend nut was a 15 mm on mine. Put the wrench on, tighten outer bolt, no problems. The back end nut is thin, but you put the wrench on it first, then pull the bolt tight into the whole. The end link grease boot moves inward as you tighten the nut. You may want to confirm they sent you the right links.
If your back nut was 15mm you probably used the OEM end links.
The Moog End links are more beefier than OEM and have a bigger nut on both ends. 19mm on the back nut and 15 on the outer.
I did confirm the part numbers and they match up thank you for pointing out though.
The Moog End links are more beefier than OEM and have a bigger nut on both ends. 19mm on the back nut and 15 on the outer.
I did confirm the part numbers and they match up
thank you for pointing out though.
I had the same part numbers but it appears you got the ones with grease fittings. Mine were the permanently greased type like the OEMs.
anwyays, if you had no issues good for you.
anwyays, if you had no issues good for you.
Newbie - Just Registered
trying to replace oem sway bar end links now but wondering if i should reuse the oem "flange" nut on the inside. i noticed the old oem has flange nuts on inside, but the moog only has a regular nut. will the moog inside stay flush in the assembly after you tighten it? all help greatly appreciated.
buck
buck