I can't imagine these are a good way to engineer something, but anyway.

So one of my rear calipers was extremely stiff. I do have the proper tool to spin it in. After a half turn or so it became unstiff and worked fine for a few more turns, but now when I turn it it's very easy to turn and does not pull itself back in at all. I have found that if I push very hard at the same time as spinning it does compress in, but this is pretty slow. I'm in no hurry to buy a new caliper (plus I'd like to get this back on the road ASAP).

Has anybody else run into this before? Also the stupid boot for it is slightly coming apart as it rubs into the metal. Like I said, I cannot imagine that in the 21st century this is the best way to do a rear brake

EDIT: Well, the brakes after getting the calipers compressed and new rotors/pads never did quite run cool, always a bit of heat compared to front, even not using the brakes for a mile or two fresh and using a hill to slow me down to see what was up. My wife got stuck in traffic a week or two back, the left caliper almost totally locked up and was smoking. Car was driveable, but running very hot. I figured those calipers were shot and rebuilding them would be frustrating as hell so I went with advance auto parts ones for $91 piece (they are reman nissan; you can see on the caliper the nissan logo). Now the brakes are good to go, no rubbing, work well.

So, lesson learned, I always had checked in the past for unwanted rubbing after a brake job and I knew they were still rubbing, but it was so mild I figured I'd be ok. Turns out I wasn't. Make sure those calipers are not rubbing at all after doing them

 

You have to twist clockwise while pressing in, they make a special tool, you can even use needle nose pliers .

 

Professor nailed it, twist as you push in

 

i agree!

 

I think he knows that already guys, lol.

You can have fun with that, personally I'd just throw a new set on there, they are probably going to start dragging soon anyways. But you will be able to get them in adding some muscle to the equation, keep going the way you are, it sounds like you got it, no magical push button.

 

Thanks, I guess I never really realized I had to push, too; the only pushing I'd done in the past was to keep the tool in place and not pop off while turning, and on this side it was spinning so freely that i didn't need to push hard. I think I nearly have it done now, though. The boot is kind of screwed but I'll see how it works

BTW, KRRZ350, your avatar is distracting

 

I always hated the rear caliper of maximas.. i had 2 maximas and they were all very hard to turn and i had to use alot of strength to get the damn thing in using that flimsy autozone tool

 

Those tools are pointless BTW, I have a pair of pliers that work waaaaaayyyyy better and don't brake either.

 

if you use water pump pliers and turn the cylinder it will go in. it is a screw. That is how the e brake works. Did mine the other day with them. It is a pita.

 

agree'd, 3rd set of rear calibers ........what a drag.....

 

One of the best way to compress the piston is to use a C clamp, it work like a charm.

 

How are you going to do that and turn the piston at the same time?
I cheat and use an impact wrench with the cube shape piston tool.

 

From what I remember when I did mine...you can only use the c-clamp on the front calipers, have to screw in the rears.

 

Another thing that will help is to open the cover of the oil brake container, be careful since it might spill so a towell around the container will certainly help.

As for the piston, I always made preventive maintenance twice a year on the brake, so I never end up in situation where the caliper or piston are jammed or all rusted and hard to push in. Basically most of the time I was able to turn the piston with a long nose pliers or even with my finger, and would finish to push the piston with the C clamp. ( it might be the other way around )

Once I'm back home tonight I'll take a look into this as I have one or two spare set in my garage, that will help to bring back the memory ( my max has been parked in the garage for 2 years now, so my memory may not serve me well at this time ) I'll get back to you on this tonight with the exact information's.

 

epicfail.jpg

 

Rear, not front.

 

Also, I would NOT use a wrench as in post #9. That thing will tear the rubber boot up and the piston needs to be completely flush with caliper in order to get the thing on the rotor.

I just did mine a few weeks ago. What a pain in the ***, even with that stupid cube tool like posted about.

I usually keep the lower bolt for the caliber still in place so you don't have to try and hold the caliper. This works well except for the rear right side, which is another PITA.

 

INTERESTING! Did that work well? GOD, that would make it so much easier!!!!

 

I have the cube.

Believe me, I was tempted to break out the impact wrench but was almost positive it would do something terrible. Also, twisting this one was not a problem--I could spin it all day; it was twisting _and pushing_, which was the only way to get it to go in, so it's not strictly a screw.

I just got both brakes on there now, job all finished. I am concerned, though: there is some rubbing. The brakes feel/sound fine and the car on a gentle incline will coast by itself, but there is some heat from the rear brakes even when not engaged (I drove 2 miles without brakes on a lone road and didn't use them; front were cold and rear still hot). If this doesn't work itself out soon I'll probably have to replace both calipers, because last time I did the rears I specifically looked for the same thing (rubbing) and there was none. I am thinking the POS calipers may be done for.

 

[QUOTE=VQP0WER;6706272]Also, I would NOT use a wrench as in post #9. That thing will tear the rubber boot up and the piston needs to be completely flush with caliper in order to get the thing on the rotor.QUOTE]

it wont tear it up if the wrench isnt grabbing the rubber seal. I have done it on my car and other cars that have to be screwed in. Also another thing to use so calipers and bolts and just about any moving part is to use never seize. i also use this between the hub of the wheel and axle and on the lug nuts.

 

it doesnt always mean its the calipers. Our calipers are floating meaning that it bolts to the bracket with two bolts. THose 2 bolts bolt into guidepins that slide in and out to engage the brakes then slide apart when not engaged. if the slide pins have old worn out grease they may not slide correctly. I would take it back apart and take the pins out of the bracket, clean and regrease. YOu would be amazed at how this could make a difference. My experience is calipers will only freeze or be bad with extended periods of non use or extreme toture.

 

Also remember that new pads will drag and/or smell for a bit after changing. They need to be bedded in.

 

I did redo them when I did the brakes. I've always cleaned them with QTips and then some proper grease from the autozone counter (and fairly sparingly). Hopefully they are ok and it's just bedding like VQPower said!

 

I HAVE THE CUBE !!!

 

I could never solve mine

 

I have a big brake kit in front.Lol

 

water pump pliers? i wonder what the timing belt pliers look like or even the channel lock

 

water pump, channel lock, widget twister....i think water pump is the term used for a plumber.. anyways thats what i use, doesnt mare or ruin anything and its painless and quick. Gets the job done thats basically what im after

 

I just relieve the pressure by opening the bleed screw. Never had a problem.

 

DAMN! That would work. Have to bleed the brakes after, though, but yeah that would work for sure.

 

Have you considered just backing out the piston and doing a caliper rebuild. That will fix your rubber issues and they should go back on like butter. Not to mention that this will cost a lot less than new calipers. Beck Arnley makes a rebuild kit for like $8-10.

 

Yep, just go to Advance Auto Parts and grab a pair of seal kits for 8 bucks apiece. Beck/Arnley parts - of any type and for any car - are actually nothing more than reboxed OEM parts. It's factory Nissan stuff.

I just turned the pistons left until they came out, letting most of the fluid out of the cylinder. Then I reinstalled then normally, by pushing and twisting right. It took almost no effort to get them back in. Frankly, I didn't even put new seals in mine. No leaks, and works just fine.

 

Updated first post!

 

yea i need to do my rearsnow

 

open bleed screw and turn inward!

 

Unfvcking real. My right did the same today that left did the other time. I took the brakes apart and there are two problems:

1) I never lubed the groove where the pad goes into the bracket.
2) More severely, the bottom pin (with the rubber bushing) on both sides was almost totally stuck. I did take them apart and I think I overlubed them. Still, even with a very scant amount of lube they are nowhere near as easy to slide as the top ones.

I'm really at a loss here. I don't want to finish this job and be stuck with the same damn problem. Why are these pins so stiff? I use proper brake grease and clean out the holes first, but the rubber-bushed ones are just really, really stiff.

The pads are aftermarket, but they seem sticky in the brackets, even with a lot of lube, like I need to grind down the ends a bit.

 

Be careful grinding them. They are supposed to be pretty snug. If they fit loosely you can get serious chatter. Someof the better brake manufacturers actually give you shims so they are not too loose.

I also believe that the pins are the key. If the caliper doesn't slide well you are sunk. And wire brusing them is sometimes worse. The surface is supposed to be really shiny and smooth. If you wire brush them too much you can actually take off the coating and make them less slippery and more prone to rust and sticking.

 

I just had a friend hold the caliper while i twisted it in..

I feel your pain on the difficulty!

 

Yeah, I don't want chatter. I think I maybe just need more lube there. These bottom pins are being a bugger. Are they supposed to be stiffer than the top? I know that the rubber boot is the cause for concern. I cannot find the purpose of it on the net. I'm wondering if I need new pins with fresh boots and a different lubricant.

 

The boots on the pins are supposed to act as a wiper and a shield and keep the pins clean. You sometimes have to be careful what kind of lube you use on the pins. It is sometimes sticky as far as rubber is concerned.

And the bottom pins should be no different that the top. Unless they are bent or just too rough.