Noise is uppder strut mounts, help!
Noise is uppder strut mounts, help!
Took the max into the local shop today and they are telling me the noise I am hearing when I turn my steering wheel is my upper strut mounts. It's a low pitched kinda sound which you would expect with a belt loose or something.
He said the mounts are weak and it's the same labor to replace the struts (which he said are weak too) at the same time as the mounts but said it's just the noise so I don't have to get it done right away. The noise is annoying when I am turning, it's always there. Could this be the truth?
He quoted me $800+ to replace the struts and the mounts in the front.
That seemed really high to me, has this happened to anyone else and what did you guys do about it?
He said the mounts are weak and it's the same labor to replace the struts (which he said are weak too) at the same time as the mounts but said it's just the noise so I don't have to get it done right away. The noise is annoying when I am turning, it's always there. Could this be the truth?
He quoted me $800+ to replace the struts and the mounts in the front.
That seemed really high to me, has this happened to anyone else and what did you guys do about it?
I'm guessin your suspension is stock. Jack your car up and spray some lube/greece around the spring. Chances are, it could be the springs binding with the strut and squeaking when you're turning... you'll see. Give that a shot and report back.
Took the max into the local shop today and they are telling me the noise I am hearing when I turn my steering wheel is my upper strut mounts. It's a low pitched kinda sound which you would expect with a belt loose or something.
He said the mounts are weak and it's the same labor to replace the struts (which he said are weak too) at the same time as the mounts but said it's just the noise so I don't have to get it done right away. The noise is annoying when I am turning, it's always there. Could this be the truth?
He quoted me $800+ to replace the struts and the mounts in the front.
That seemed really high to me, has this happened to anyone else and what did you guys do about it?
He said the mounts are weak and it's the same labor to replace the struts (which he said are weak too) at the same time as the mounts but said it's just the noise so I don't have to get it done right away. The noise is annoying when I am turning, it's always there. Could this be the truth?
He quoted me $800+ to replace the struts and the mounts in the front.
That seemed really high to me, has this happened to anyone else and what did you guys do about it?
THe diagnosis sounds right, but the cost he's charging is outrageous.
Although - I'm sure he's quoting you their basic shop rate of $90 per hour or more....which would actually calculate correctly, believe it or not.
You DO indeed have to remove the entire strut assembly, spring, etc. to replace those parts.
So, in actuality -- he's being honest.
It's just that his labor rates are insane for such basic services.
I'm suffering the same prob. with mine right now, and it's driving me NUTS!!!
I don't have access to proper equipment rt. now to fix it myself (done it before) but I'm just going to wait and deal with the noise for now, as annoying as it is -- it's not hurting anything on my car.
good luck.
gr
I talked to the guy who worked on my car and he said that it just stayed where they put it. Pull the car up and it stayed there, pushed it down and it stayed there. I am guessing he is talking about my struts but said I could drive on it if I could deal with the noise, I guess I will keep doing that for awhile.
Could this be the springs binding with the struts like OOmaxSE said and simple lube/grease on the springs would fix this problem?
Could this be the springs binding with the struts like OOmaxSE said and simple lube/grease on the springs would fix this problem?
No. Springs don't "bind" -- doesn't work that way.
Turning noises indicate bad strut bearing (mounts on top of assembly) and clunking while driving (my problem) is caused by worn-out seats / rubber components on the hat.
Either way - you have to pull the whole assembly from the vehicle and remove the spring -- which is where the work lies.
Oh - and your car "not moving" means your struts are bad.
gr
Turning noises indicate bad strut bearing (mounts on top of assembly) and clunking while driving (my problem) is caused by worn-out seats / rubber components on the hat.
Either way - you have to pull the whole assembly from the vehicle and remove the spring -- which is where the work lies.
Oh - and your car "not moving" means your struts are bad.

gr
No. Springs don't "bind" -- doesn't work that way.
Turning noises indicate bad strut bearing (mounts on top of assembly) and clunking while driving (my problem) is caused by worn-out seats / rubber components on the hat.
Either way - you have to pull the whole assembly from the vehicle and remove the spring -- which is where the work lies.
Oh - and your car "not moving" means your struts are bad.
gr
Turning noises indicate bad strut bearing (mounts on top of assembly) and clunking while driving (my problem) is caused by worn-out seats / rubber components on the hat.
Either way - you have to pull the whole assembly from the vehicle and remove the spring -- which is where the work lies.
Oh - and your car "not moving" means your struts are bad.

gr
This is an easy fix guys you are making it out to be a lot harder than it really is and that shop guy that s a crazy price i could do this job in under an hour hell i put lowering springs on my car all 4 wheels in 45 min.
Get on ebay or go to a autoparts store and buy an upper strut mount or for those of you that need struts then buy them too and if your doing struts then replace both at the same time!! With parts in hand go to autozone or somewhere that rents tools and rent spring compressors. Now pull the tire then release the strut from the hub by removing two bolts. the two bolts have and 18mm side and a 16mm side i believe not sure on the 16mm maybe a 17mm but anyways once you have done that go into the engine bay and take off the 3 nuts on top of your strut mount (15mm i believe) and the entire assembly should slide out. Now the tricky part is getting the springs and struts apart. put the spring compressors on the springs and compress them moving back and forth as to not **** the springs (easiest with an impact) Now the fun part you have to keep the strut from turning while removing the strut nut on top. Some struts you can use a combination of two wrenches and work them opposite ways to get the nut off. In worst case scenario if you are trashing the struts you can cut the nut off the top. For those of your replacing the upper strut mount once you get the nut off pull the old mount off and put the new one on. Now reassemble in the opposite order.
Seems like a lot of work on here but its really not guys its very easy unless your one of those severly mechanically challenged types.
Any questions let me know.
Get on ebay or go to a autoparts store and buy an upper strut mount or for those of you that need struts then buy them too and if your doing struts then replace both at the same time!! With parts in hand go to autozone or somewhere that rents tools and rent spring compressors. Now pull the tire then release the strut from the hub by removing two bolts. the two bolts have and 18mm side and a 16mm side i believe not sure on the 16mm maybe a 17mm but anyways once you have done that go into the engine bay and take off the 3 nuts on top of your strut mount (15mm i believe) and the entire assembly should slide out. Now the tricky part is getting the springs and struts apart. put the spring compressors on the springs and compress them moving back and forth as to not **** the springs (easiest with an impact) Now the fun part you have to keep the strut from turning while removing the strut nut on top. Some struts you can use a combination of two wrenches and work them opposite ways to get the nut off. In worst case scenario if you are trashing the struts you can cut the nut off the top. For those of your replacing the upper strut mount once you get the nut off pull the old mount off and put the new one on. Now reassemble in the opposite order.
Seems like a lot of work on here but its really not guys its very easy unless your one of those severly mechanically challenged types.

Any questions let me know.
Thanks to everyone for their help, last question on this subject...
Since I have to get new struts are there after market ones I should get instead of OEM that will last longer or that work better? The lower the price the better for me as well. As for the strut mounts, where is a place to get them at a good price and if anyone has part/model numbers that would be appreciated as well.
Thanks again for the help on this!!
Since I have to get new struts are there after market ones I should get instead of OEM that will last longer or that work better? The lower the price the better for me as well. As for the strut mounts, where is a place to get them at a good price and if anyone has part/model numbers that would be appreciated as well.
Thanks again for the help on this!!
Thanks to everyone for their help, last question on this subject...
Since I have to get new struts are there after market ones I should get instead of OEM that will last longer or that work better? The lower the price the better for me as well. As for the strut mounts, where is a place to get them at a good price and if anyone has part/model numbers that would be appreciated as well.
Thanks again for the help on this!!
Since I have to get new struts are there after market ones I should get instead of OEM that will last longer or that work better? The lower the price the better for me as well. As for the strut mounts, where is a place to get them at a good price and if anyone has part/model numbers that would be appreciated as well.
Thanks again for the help on this!!
Heres my listing on ebay just to give you an idea and makes sure its what your looking for.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
Lots of variables to your question, but here's my 2c:
I've had Tokico Illuminas, and I think these are truly the best option for our vehicles aside from getting Coilover units.
Illuminas will pair with ANY OEM or aftermarket spring combo, with NO issues of premature wear.
However - i've not tried the Tok Blues, or the KYB Gr2's.
If you are buying NEW, I'd say go with either of those three, depending on how you drive, the mileage on your car, and what springs/tires you run.
WIth that being said: if you are looking to stay stock (springs) I'd say try and find some low mileage USED OEM struts, and go with those. Don't waste your money on NEW OEM Struts, for the same $$$ you can buy top-rated Illuminas.
However: I would NOT recommend buying USED Top-Hat Assemblies. Then, you're just right back in the same boat that we are ALL in....and that's suffering the consequences of worn-out rubber and bearings. These are like $50 per corner, and spending the $$$ now, is better than having to disassemble the whole thing AGAIN in a few thousand miles, and replacing it ALL over again.
good luck.
gr
I've had Tokico Illuminas, and I think these are truly the best option for our vehicles aside from getting Coilover units.
Illuminas will pair with ANY OEM or aftermarket spring combo, with NO issues of premature wear.
However - i've not tried the Tok Blues, or the KYB Gr2's.
If you are buying NEW, I'd say go with either of those three, depending on how you drive, the mileage on your car, and what springs/tires you run.
WIth that being said: if you are looking to stay stock (springs) I'd say try and find some low mileage USED OEM struts, and go with those. Don't waste your money on NEW OEM Struts, for the same $$$ you can buy top-rated Illuminas.
However: I would NOT recommend buying USED Top-Hat Assemblies. Then, you're just right back in the same boat that we are ALL in....and that's suffering the consequences of worn-out rubber and bearings. These are like $50 per corner, and spending the $$$ now, is better than having to disassemble the whole thing AGAIN in a few thousand miles, and replacing it ALL over again.
good luck.
gr
Last edited by ghostrider17; Nov 14, 2008 at 11:25 AM.
For sure go with one of those three. I wouldnt recomend used struts or any used parts cause you run the risk of getting the ones off of someone who absolutely abuses their car.
I hate to see a Maxima abused but it does happen
I hate to see a Maxima abused but it does happen
Last edited by quiksilver20004; Nov 14, 2008 at 11:45 AM.
Agreed though -- better-off going with newer aftermarkets.
Just be CERTAIN you do your research with spring/strut combo's if you are going with ANTHING BUT Illuminas.

gr
**I think it is GENERALLY accepted that the H&R Spring / illumina combo is just about the best compormise on ride, handling, and drop**
Do I need the strut bearing when I order the strut mounts?
I am finding that they are sold seperatly. Do I have one on my old mounts or do I need to buy a new one for each side along with the mounts? Here is the website that I was looking at: http://www.mypartscatalog.com/parts/...rut_mount.html
They also had KYB struts there for $100, is this the kind you were talking about... http://www.mypartscatalog.com/parts/..._assembly.html
I am finding that they are sold seperatly. Do I have one on my old mounts or do I need to buy a new one for each side along with the mounts? Here is the website that I was looking at: http://www.mypartscatalog.com/parts/...rut_mount.html
They also had KYB struts there for $100, is this the kind you were talking about... http://www.mypartscatalog.com/parts/..._assembly.html
Do I need the strut bearing when I order the strut mounts?
I am finding that they are sold seperatly. Do I have one on my old mounts or do I need to buy a new one for each side along with the mounts? Here is the website that I was looking at: http://www.mypartscatalog.com/parts/...rut_mount.html
They also had KYB struts there for $100, is this the kind you were talking about... http://www.mypartscatalog.com/parts/..._assembly.html
I am finding that they are sold seperatly. Do I have one on my old mounts or do I need to buy a new one for each side along with the mounts? Here is the website that I was looking at: http://www.mypartscatalog.com/parts/...rut_mount.html
They also had KYB struts there for $100, is this the kind you were talking about... http://www.mypartscatalog.com/parts/..._assembly.html
And yes those struts are the KYB GR-2's They are great struts but do your research and check around you may find them cheaper or another good brand for less.
Check this site they have a lot of stuff
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/default.htm
Last edited by quiksilver20004; Nov 17, 2008 at 10:39 AM.
Took the max into the local shop today and they are telling me the noise I am hearing when I turn my steering wheel is my upper strut mounts. It's a low pitched kinda sound which you would expect with a belt loose or something.
He said the mounts are weak and it's the same labor to replace the struts (which he said are weak too) at the same time as the mounts but said it's just the noise so I don't have to get it done right away. The noise is annoying when I am turning, it's always there. Could this be the truth?
He quoted me $800+ to replace the struts and the mounts in the front.
That seemed really high to me, has this happened to anyone else and what did you guys do about it?
He said the mounts are weak and it's the same labor to replace the struts (which he said are weak too) at the same time as the mounts but said it's just the noise so I don't have to get it done right away. The noise is annoying when I am turning, it's always there. Could this be the truth?
He quoted me $800+ to replace the struts and the mounts in the front.
That seemed really high to me, has this happened to anyone else and what did you guys do about it?
I've had Tokico Blues (non-adjustable) before and hated them on my 95 SE. No rebound control, car hopped too much. Then tried KYB AGX's and loved them and it's variability.
For the extra money, GET THE ADJUSTABLE struts. You will NOT be disappointed. Planning on getting Illuminas for my 02 SE.
For the extra money, GET THE ADJUSTABLE struts. You will NOT be disappointed. Planning on getting Illuminas for my 02 SE.
Would worn strut mounts cause the car to bottom out easier, say on a road that has a slight dip in it? My '02 does this in the same spot every day on the way to work. My wife's '91 Max otoh never has a problem with this spot at the same speed.
I'm also getting a slight clunking when pulling into my driveway. I'm assuming the strut mounts have to be the culprit, but I've never had to replace them on any of my cars before so I'm wondering. My front strut boots are torn anyway so regardless I'll have to take my struts out to replace those. That's what I get for not replacing them when I put my Illumina's on 10k miles ago.
I'm also getting a slight clunking when pulling into my driveway. I'm assuming the strut mounts have to be the culprit, but I've never had to replace them on any of my cars before so I'm wondering. My front strut boots are torn anyway so regardless I'll have to take my struts out to replace those. That's what I get for not replacing them when I put my Illumina's on 10k miles ago.
Just go to advanced auto parts.. or some place like that.. they rent the tools... essentially, your purchasing the compressors for like 58 bucks... if you dont return them, you just spent 58 bucks.. if you did, you got your money back.
for those that have trouble taking off the top nut with a 17mm socket AFTER the whole spring is out as the unit.. do this FIRST..
Loosen the 17mm Nut FIRST a couple of turns... that way you can take off the nut without having to try to hold the mount at the same time,
then loosen the 3 nuts on top with the 14mm sockets just a couple of turns.
then after you remove the brake lines out the way and loosen the big nuts at the bottom with either 3/4 or 19 mm, then your good to go.
I'm having problems again right after i changed the strut bearings... only on the passenger side.. so i just ordered a new mount with the bearing.. hopefully that does the trick.
for those that have trouble taking off the top nut with a 17mm socket AFTER the whole spring is out as the unit.. do this FIRST..
Loosen the 17mm Nut FIRST a couple of turns... that way you can take off the nut without having to try to hold the mount at the same time,
then loosen the 3 nuts on top with the 14mm sockets just a couple of turns.
then after you remove the brake lines out the way and loosen the big nuts at the bottom with either 3/4 or 19 mm, then your good to go.
I'm having problems again right after i changed the strut bearings... only on the passenger side.. so i just ordered a new mount with the bearing.. hopefully that does the trick.
If the noise is coming from the right front side of the car....more than likely it's your motor mount located on the right fender...please break out the pry bar to work the mount up and down and you'll hear that clunking noise!
That I am! The right side noise that appears during suspension oscillation is always first thought to be the actually suspension components due to it's occur during driving and associated with bumps, turning and the like...This particular motor mount failure is always overlooked as a suspension problem...with it's actually the motor contacting the frame close by the strut and it really does sound like a defective /blown strut or worn strut mount!
wait, what are you thread hijacking?
Now are u sure it isnt the brakes. Do you hear the noise when you take your foot off the gas?
post that in the N00b thread
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-thread.html
KYB Strut Mounts
When I bought my KYB Gr-2's, I also bought the KYB strut mounts. Both were high quality and worth it in that with the better shock, it is does not have to work with a partially worn stock mount. BTW...I did give my OEM mounts away for free and frankly, they did have some life left in them.
Always buy new mounts when buying new struts...IMHO.
Vic
Always buy new mounts when buying new struts...IMHO.

Vic
Just go to advanced auto parts.. or some place like that.. they rent the tools... essentially, your purchasing the compressors for like 58 bucks... if you dont return them, you just spent 58 bucks.. if you did, you got your money back.
for those that have trouble taking off the top nut with a 17mm socket AFTER the whole spring is out as the unit.. do this FIRST..
Loosen the 17mm Nut FIRST a couple of turns... that way you can take off the nut without having to try to hold the mount at the same time,
then loosen the 3 nuts on top with the 14mm sockets just a couple of turns.
then after you remove the brake lines out the way and loosen the big nuts at the bottom with either 3/4 or 19 mm, then your good to go.
I'm having problems again right after i changed the strut bearings... only on the passenger side.. so i just ordered a new mount with the bearing.. hopefully that does the trick.
for those that have trouble taking off the top nut with a 17mm socket AFTER the whole spring is out as the unit.. do this FIRST..
Loosen the 17mm Nut FIRST a couple of turns... that way you can take off the nut without having to try to hold the mount at the same time,
then loosen the 3 nuts on top with the 14mm sockets just a couple of turns.
then after you remove the brake lines out the way and loosen the big nuts at the bottom with either 3/4 or 19 mm, then your good to go.
I'm having problems again right after i changed the strut bearings... only on the passenger side.. so i just ordered a new mount with the bearing.. hopefully that does the trick.
I'd say thats too much money. I just bought new strut mounts and had the Tokicos put into my new/used H&R's. The MOOG brand was $55 per side, and the strut swap was $64 after tax. That's less than half of what you were quoted.
If you need a set of strut mount and bearings, I have a set of OEM's. I had a clunking from the front and thought it was the strut mounts and bearings. After replacing struts, springs, TRE's and SM kit, I still have the same clunk. Went and got a 4 wheel alighnment Monday after work and found the issue was the passengers side sway bar end link bushings. The strut mounts and bearings I had removed are in perfect condition, they have a coating of lithium grease on them. If you need a set cheap, LMK.
If you need a set of strut mount and bearings, I have a set of OEM's. I had a clunking from the front and thought it was the strut mounts and bearings. After replacing struts, springs, TRE's and SM kit, I still have the same clunk. Went and got a 4 wheel alighnment Monday after work and found the issue was the passengers side sway bar end link bushings. The strut mounts and bearings I had removed are in perfect condition, they have a coating of lithium grease on them. If you need a set cheap, LMK.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
My Coffee
New Member Introductions
15
Jun 6, 2017 02:01 PM
Andy29
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
8
Sep 29, 2015 05:32 AM
lrb6805
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
7
Sep 17, 2015 04:49 PM




