Wanna make $10? let's see if you can solve this starter issue...
I hope you wiped the grease off. You don't want it spinning abound the whole flywheel area and cathcing dirt, etc.
I had a problem like this a couple years agi with my Teg. Lemme think about it a few and I'll get back to you.
I had a problem like this a couple years agi with my Teg. Lemme think about it a few and I'll get back to you.
Did you notice any difference with the new starter? If not then just pop your old 1 in and at least get your $ back.
Next time it acts up look at your radio to see if it shuts off.. I just went out to check my car and while in the crank position the radio shuts down..Even if the car is already running...Some cars shut off the headlights, etc...Our's shut the clock and radio off while cranking.. This will at least let you know if the ignition switch is working.
I checked the radio while in reverse and the radio still shuts off so all the radio shutting off tells you is that the ignition switch is good.
Do you have someone who can give you a hand while looking under the hood? Next time it acts up have someone turn the switch to crank and check the inhibitor relay by putting your hand on it to see if it clicks...Also try swapping the inhibitor relay with another relay.
Also how fast does the starter crank when it does crank? I've seen corrossion on the ground wire cause a no start before..usually when this happens you'll get a slow crank on the times that it does crank..Check voltage drop from the starter bolt to the battery ground. It should be near zero volts... IIRC, there should be less than .5 to 1 ohm resistance between the starter ground and negative battery. Same with battery positive to the starter. IIRC, The power wire should have less than .5 to 1 ohm.

On a side note: I've also seen autozone starters come faulty right out of the box.. They bench test good, but as soon as you install them the they have an intermittent no crank...We've started only selling OEM starters at our work because of this issue..
I checked the radio while in reverse and the radio still shuts off so all the radio shutting off tells you is that the ignition switch is good.
Do you have someone who can give you a hand while looking under the hood? Next time it acts up have someone turn the switch to crank and check the inhibitor relay by putting your hand on it to see if it clicks...Also try swapping the inhibitor relay with another relay.
Also how fast does the starter crank when it does crank? I've seen corrossion on the ground wire cause a no start before..usually when this happens you'll get a slow crank on the times that it does crank..Check voltage drop from the starter bolt to the battery ground. It should be near zero volts... IIRC, there should be less than .5 to 1 ohm resistance between the starter ground and negative battery. Same with battery positive to the starter. IIRC, The power wire should have less than .5 to 1 ohm.

On a side note: I've also seen autozone starters come faulty right out of the box.. They bench test good, but as soon as you install them the they have an intermittent no crank...We've started only selling OEM starters at our work because of this issue..
Last edited by 5thgenmaxima; Jan 4, 2009 at 04:03 PM.
Well in that case, the picture is fixed.. Instead try swapping the clutch interlock relay with another relay, and if you have a friend that can help check to see if the clutch interlock relay is clicking by putting your finger on it when the car acts up...As far as the clock being out, it doesn't matter just look at the lights on the radio to see if they shut off.
EDIT: Also next time it acts up keep the key in the crank position and try releasing and pushing the clutch again..It could be a sticking clutch pedal switch...If it where me the first thing I'd check is to see if the clutch interlock relay is clicking when the starter isn't engaging...That'll cut the circuit in half and help narrow down the cause alot faster.
Also did they bench test your starter at autozone before selling you a new one?
EDIT: Also next time it acts up keep the key in the crank position and try releasing and pushing the clutch again..It could be a sticking clutch pedal switch...If it where me the first thing I'd check is to see if the clutch interlock relay is clicking when the starter isn't engaging...That'll cut the circuit in half and help narrow down the cause alot faster.
Also did they bench test your starter at autozone before selling you a new one?
Last edited by 5thgenmaxima; Jan 4, 2009 at 04:17 PM.
The switch located on the pedal powers the realy. First try finding the switch and jump it out. If the realy pulls then maybe only the switch is bad or out of adjustment. If it is an internittent problem with the realy, you can find the relay and determine which terminals power the relay and what ones are the 2 that get connected together (look at the diagram) you can just jumpo themp out with some wire. A couple of male terminals would even be better.
I live over in Marlton on Route 70 behind Walmart. In the summer I come your way allot because my kids play hockey over at Lakeland. If you are still haveing trpouble you can stop by and I'll try to give you a hand. I've spent a good many years under cars.
Last edited by fflint_18; Jan 4, 2009 at 05:12 PM.
I've done a bunch of clutch's, but only a couple of FWDs. It could ne a real *****. The real question is, Do you have the space?? I've got most of the tools, but my garage is too small and packed with stuff to do it.
And you have to be ready to change a bunch of stuff. Depending on the miles you may want to change the halfshafts since you have to pull them anyway. And you should probably get the flywheel resurfaced or have another one ready. Seals for the shafts at the tranny should be replaced.
Then there is the issue with the hydraulics. From what I hear about Max's they are real trouble to bleed so you want to try to do the job without disconnecting the lines.
These are just a few things I've thought of in the last couple minutes. I'm really new to Max's so let me think for a bit on the other problems.
And you have to be ready to change a bunch of stuff. Depending on the miles you may want to change the halfshafts since you have to pull them anyway. And you should probably get the flywheel resurfaced or have another one ready. Seals for the shafts at the tranny should be replaced.
Then there is the issue with the hydraulics. From what I hear about Max's they are real trouble to bleed so you want to try to do the job without disconnecting the lines.
These are just a few things I've thought of in the last couple minutes. I'm really new to Max's so let me think for a bit on the other problems.
Fortunately, I have the space in my garage. 
There's are exceptionally good write-ups here:
Clutch Replacement
Clutch Bleed
Hose
Let me know what you think and possibly we can work something out about getting this done in the near future!
Check out that site while you're at it, it's really a great site for we 3.0 owners

There's are exceptionally good write-ups here:
Clutch Replacement
Clutch Bleed
Hose
Let me know what you think and possibly we can work something out about getting this done in the near future!

Check out that site while you're at it, it's really a great site for we 3.0 owners
Damn man that blows. Reminds me of when I had to change my starter. I was praying that was the problem, and thank god it was. Until it was changes I was just as terrorified. Hopefully that relay swap works for you.
ignition switch is good... Feeling to see if the relay clicks or not will let you know if the clutch interlock is bad or the starter..I doubt it's a intermittant open in a wire since it has a normal (not slow) crank when it does engage and seems to work after a few trys without jiggling wires around..
I'd swap relays... If the new relay clicks it's probably another bad starter..If the relay doesn't click it's probably a clutch interlock switch.
I'd swap relays... If the new relay clicks it's probably another bad starter..If the relay doesn't click it's probably a clutch interlock switch.
make sure your bettery terminals are clean of corrosion, and have a very good connection. I had a customer tow in his car due to an intermittent start/no start and had wierd electrical problems. All were solved by cleaning and retightning both positive and negative battery terminals. GL
make sure your bettery terminals are clean of corrosion, and have a very good connection. I had a customer tow in his car due to an intermittent start/no start and had wierd electrical problems. All were solved by cleaning and retightning both positive and negative battery terminals. GL
I agree, sometimes the most complicated things are really simple. Bad connections can cause all sorts of issues.
Guys, I will update this on Friday when I have a chance to work on this...I just wanted to express my gratitude for all whom have contributed to this thread thus far, I am keeping my fingers crossed.
Hey, man - no I have not had a chance to mess with this yet. I am going to do this Tuesday. The missus and I just got a puppy, and between that, taking X-Mas decorations down, and work, I'll be damned if I have been able to get to it. 
Hey, did you give the clutch work any thoughts?

Hey, did you give the clutch work any thoughts?
I am not sure I'll have the time. Puppies are easy. 2 kids that are 11 and 14 are really hard. They are playing hockey every weekend on Sat and Sun. I'd hate to promise and then not be able to help. I'm sure I can help some, but not sure I can have the hours available to do the whole job. I'll PM you my cell and maybe we can talk over the next couple days.
Let me throw out an oddball i've seen in a few cars... seeing that all the common sense solutions have been said...
I'm going to say that your alternator voltage regulator is bad and has been over charging your battery. An over charged battery can give you the symptoms you are describing.
Sounds weird right?
Anyways good luck... this will be an easy hit or completely miss.
I'm going to say that your alternator voltage regulator is bad and has been over charging your battery. An over charged battery can give you the symptoms you are describing.
Sounds weird right?
Anyways good luck... this will be an easy hit or completely miss.
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