I read through a bunch of old threads that discussed 2k2+ owners using the 2k1 MAFs in 02+ and swapping the thermistor from an existing 02+maf. http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...r-2k1-maf.html I did this a while ago and now I'm getting a P0113 for a faulty IAT sensor, the thermistor.
Some of the threads discussed ordering a thermistor or buying one from radioshack that was identical to the one found in the OEM 02+ MAFs but never clarified the specs.
Does anyone have this information? Much appreciated.

 

Bump, anyone have any info on these?

 

i would be interested cause i just did this swap a little bit ago... i wonder if others have been experiencing this problem.. how long did it take for yours to go bad?

 

I just popped the 0113 code, too, after about 2-3 weeks with a 2K1 MAF. Haven't noticed any driveability issues, but I'd sure as hell like to know where I could get a replacement thermistor without getting another 2k2 MAF.

 

So you didn't put the thermistor from your old MAF into your new one? That's why you're setting the code. The A33 MAF does not have built in IAT functionality, unlike the A33B MAF.

That's the entire point of swapping the thermistor.

 

Of course I swapped the thermistor. But I was reading about other folks having the p0113 after doing the swap, including the thermistor. Basically, it leads me to believe that the thermistor can get weaker due to mishandling, or accidental bending (like mine got bent - straightened it out and it seemed fine - guess not).

 

Found the part number of a thermistor that should work in the MAF. Follows the same scale (within tolerance) of the stock one.

Just have to see if there's a supplier that sells them in small quantities...

 

that would be great, cause i might need one of those myself in the future.. i hope it's not too expensive.. although, i'm skeptical because that thermistor is the only difference between the 5th gen and 5.5 gen MAF, and the price difference between the 2 MAF's is around $300

 

Nissan probably retails it for that much because they can, really. Just like other small electronic parts.

It won't be that expensive by itself, but as with a lot of specialty parts, I can only find it available in large quantities.

This is by far not the only part that'll work, but it's the only one where I found a chart of temperature and resistance conversions, where I could find that it matches the stock sensor.

 

Do you know what the resistance/wattage/etc is on it? I may just go to Radio Shack and pick up an equivalent and see if it'll work.

 

Bump because more than one inquiring minds want to know where to source these....

 

You need a resistor that has these specs. See attached.

 

Ok, so 2 questions:

1. You can for sure get these at radio shack?
2. What do we do about the metal wires that run from the sensor to the metal clips on the MAF?

 

I haven't seen any thermistors at radioshack, and they don't appear to list any on their site.

Just solder it in place, that's what I had to do when we replaced Merlyn's MAF as well. The original MAF had the thermistor soldered in, not clipped.

A resistor won't work, it's just a single resistance all the time. A thermistor changes resistance by temperature, which is what you need (NCT).

 

Dammit... that's what I meant when I posted the specs and I still said "resistor".

 

The problem is, radioshack doesn't have thermistors, just standard resistors.

There's a guy here in Vegas I'm going to call later today or go by his office this weekend that specializes in thermistors, so hopefully he'll be able to hook me up.

 

The product I found was PN MSB202K, but as I said you can only get it in obscene quantities.

 

Where at, and how much for these obscene quantities?

 

Don't know the price, never bothered to request a quote. All of the places I looked at had minimum order quantities in the thousands.

Google the part number, you'll see the suppliers.

 

I didn't say Radioshack has them, I just meant to post the specs for you. Like pmohr posted above, these probably aren't easy to find on a piece by piece basis, so a connection like yours that might be useful if the guy can help.

 

Set up a GD?

 

I sent an e-mail to the guy, and will let you guys know if I hear anything good.

 

Does a bad IAT affect performance at all?

 

good info

 

anybody? my car's having a performance problem, and i'd like to eliminate that as one of the possible causes if that's not the case

 

I found two part numbers, for Thermometrics thermistors. The first one is the exact one for our car, but it is back ordered and it's a minimum order of 1000 which will run you $1140.

AL03006-1248-73-G1

The second is a 2.7kohm thermistor, which I just installed and test drove - ECU reset worked fine and the light is off - it's not the exact one, which would have had a 2.2kohm thermistor, but it's gotta be better than none. Plus, the minimum order is one and cost me like 14 bucks plus shipping, so it came up to $22.16 total. The only reason I actually purchased this one, is that I'm an idiot and clicked the wrong link when I went to order, and never noticed until my order was complete.

AL03006-1576-101-G1

 

This is good info, thanks. Let us know how the IAT is working out whenever you can in the next few months or so.

 

nice info indeed... so what does it look like, and what did you have to do to install it?

 

Looks exactly like the old one, maybe a tiny bit larger. Installation was the same as the old one. Just went right in.

And I will post updates every few weeks for a couple months so everyone knows whether or not it works. But hey, for less than $25, it ain't a bad deal. And it was only that much because I bought ten!

 

If the 2.7k one keeps working well it looks like you found a solution for all of us. Keep posting and let us know.

If not and we need the other one we'll need a heck of a group buy.

 

I talked to someone over at digi-key and sent them the thermistor spec sheet from the Nissan FSM. They told me to order the 615-1007-ND @ $7.10 a piece http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=615-1007-ND and also noted that it wasn't an identical replacement. I installed it a few weeks ago and reset the ecu. The CEL is gone and has not returned (I've probably put 2,000 miles on the car since). My car however doesn't seem to feel quite as powerful as it has in the past (butt dyno) and the gas mileage is a little worse -3mpg maybe but I drive agressively. My guess is that its running rich however I don't have a wideband. I have an emanage-blue but don't feel comfortable messing with the a/f without a wideband or a dyno.

BTW the 01 MAF has been in my car for probably a year and a half. The car has 87k so maybe my coils need to be replaced? I would like to get it back

 

The operating temperatures on that are quite a bit lower than the one in the MAF, and the one I ordered.

 

hey man, how's it workin out for ya so far?

 

Is it the MAF sensor that goes bad or the thermistor?

 

The MAF. If the thermistor was bad, why would you buy a new MAF and swap in the old thermistor? You'd end up with the same exact problem, just out ~$80.

 

Too connect this to the other MAF thread, I've been using a honeywell thermistor (p/n 135-202FAG-J01) detailed here: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ml#post7318741

 

pmohr:
I have a 02 se 6sp and I believe my MAF is starting to go because it's reving out at roughly 3000-3800rpm in every gear. That's why I was curious about wheather it was the MAF or just the thermistor.

 

Just a bump for everyone's info - almost 3 years later and the thermistor I ordered and installed in this thread is still working perfectly. If anyone else has this issue, try the AL03006-1576-101-G1.