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2nd gear grind

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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 05:54 AM
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2nd gear grind

I know there is the famous 3rd gear grind, but this post is about the 2nd gear grind.

Has anybody experienced it?

Mine goes as follows:

Temperature here has been around 15-25F.
If I start the car, let it warm up for only like 15-30 seconds, then take off in first naturally and shift at about 2500rpm's, it either is kind of hard to get in second but it will defenitely go into second, or it will do a quick short grind into second. I only experience this once in a blue moon though. If I let the car warm up for a lot longer, then it doesn't do it.
I'm running MT-90 just recently changed about 3 months ago.

Other than that, tranny shifts normal. By normal I mean, with the normal notchiness that is common among these trannies.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 07:09 AM
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I don't have any grinds, but I do get locked out of 2nd for a bit when it's cold. I usually have to bring it back to Neutral, let off the clutch, then try again.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by zero2sixtyZ
I don't have any grinds, but I do get locked out of 2nd for a bit when it's cold. I usually have to bring it back to Neutral, let off the clutch, then try again.


I have experienced this a time or two, but no grinds..
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 08:19 AM
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my 5 speed does the exact same thing when its still cold. goes away when its warmed up
so i dont think its that serious.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 09:32 AM
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I've had it happen. It's not exactly a full fledged grind, but it makes some noise going into second when it's really cold out.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 09:40 AM
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I have that going into 2nd and 3rd, but only when its stupid cold outside. When everything is up to temp it shifts fine.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 09:40 AM
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heard this was a common problem especially in the 5th gen m5/6. Try letting the car sit for about 2-3 minutes and then try. I've heard the famous 3rd gear and also alot of people have posted about shifting problems in the cold. Usually clear out once the car warms up. Park it in a garage if u have one. If not let it warm up and keep us posted.
gl
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:14 AM
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Problem is no matter how long you let it warm up the transmission won't warm up until you drive it. Until it's in motion nothing is moving in the tranny to warm it up.

Last edited by Klutch; Jan 22, 2009 at 10:22 AM.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:34 AM
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Syncros? It may just be a matter of needing to be warmed up.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Klutch
Problem is no matter how long you let it warm up the transmission won't warm up until you drive it. Until it's in motion nothing is moving in the tranny to warm it up.
Which can be done just fine in 3rd, 4th or 5th.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:41 AM
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well the tranny is connected to the engine so as the engine heats up i believe the tranny will warm up a little. if i try and put it into first a few seconds after starting, its almost impossible to get it in without some muscle. if it sits and warms up a couple minutes then its fine.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:45 AM
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^^^^^ only when its super cold here in GA...rare
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Wmaxima
well the tranny is connected to the engine so as the engine heats up i believe the tranny will warm up a little. if i try and put it into first a few seconds after starting, its almost impossible to get it in without some muscle. if it sits and warms up a couple minutes then its fine.
Well there might be a tiny bit of truth to that, since it's bolted up to the motor it might act as a heat sink but no, until the transmission gears start moving it ain't a warmin'. Heated garage, yes, starting the car, no. Think about it, the engine warms because the internals start moving, coolant runs over and circulates it. Transmission sitting in your driveway not moving isn't going to warm up.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 11:21 AM
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The tranny does warm up if left long enough idling. I let my car warm up for aleast 5 mins when it real cold here and it shifts fine. The Input shaft is spinning the whole time the car is warming up. I'm not gonna pretend to know how the tranny works inside, but I believe the syncros are located on the input shaft.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 11:25 AM
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Same thing... it never grinds on me but when its really cold and i drive it right away i sometimes get locked out of second on my 02 (6-speed) and on my 99 (5-Speed) it used to do the same thing sometimes
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 05:23 PM
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i have found that redline does not like the cold. I have used redline, amsoil and motul. Motul works best in the cold
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 05:30 PM
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every other car i have had has grinded on the 1-2 shift when cold but not my max. i would just skip 2nd for a few cycles or a couple of minutes so the fluid could warm up.

by the way i am running mt-90 too and have been fine down to about 5 degrees this winter, it just sounds like your second gear syncro is wearing down
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 05:38 PM
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I get when I dont warm up the car. Just give it a few mins before you take off. Its better for the car.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 06:19 PM
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What if there is a constant grinding of metal on metal sound, not when switching but when accelerating in gear. This happens for my 1,2 and 3; and strange spinning type grinding sound when just idling. When I engage the clutch, that spinning grind goes away, and when I put in gear and start driving with a smooth switch, the hard metal against metal grind begins. It sounds so horrible. Is it more likely to be the Clutch or the Transmission. Have to fix this asap!!! (this happens when the car is fully warmed up too). Thanks guys.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by coldfear13
What if there is a constant grinding of metal on metal sound, not when switching but when accelerating in gear. This happens for my 1,2 and 3; and strange spinning type grinding sound when just idling. When I engage the clutch, that spinning grind goes away, and when I put in gear and start driving with a smooth switch, the hard metal against metal grind begins. It sounds so horrible. Is it more likely to be the Clutch or the Transmission. Have to fix this asap!!! (this happens when the car is fully warmed up too). Thanks guys.
By 'engage your clutch' you mean push the clutch pedal down? That's the opposite term.

Sounds like your ISB.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by coldfear13
What if there is a constant grinding of metal on metal sound, not when switching but when accelerating in gear. This happens for my 1,2 and 3; and strange spinning type grinding sound when just idling. When I engage the clutch, that spinning grind goes away, and when I put in gear and start driving with a smooth switch, the hard metal against metal grind begins. It sounds so horrible. Is it more likely to be the Clutch or the Transmission. Have to fix this asap!!! (this happens when the car is fully warmed up too). Thanks guys.
sounds like something in your tranny is not happy! a rebuild is most likely in your future

have you by chance checked your tranny fluid level?
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Klutch
Problem is no matter how long you let it warm up the transmission won't warm up until you drive it. Until it's in motion nothing is moving in the tranny to warm it up.
Well, since the input shaft is splined into the clutch disk, while in neutral, the input shaft spins, which spins the countershaft inside the trans, so in theory all gears are spinning inside the trans. Just that the fluid will not warm up as fast because there is no load from the engine. Load creates heat faster. So, if I let it warm up for a while, it never grinds. Just when cold.
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
By 'engage your clutch' you mean push the clutch pedal down? That's the opposite term.

Sounds like your ISB.
Yes when I said engage I meant to push down on the pedal, sorry for the confusion. Whats the ISB?
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Feldman
sounds like something in your tranny is not happy! a rebuild is most likely in your future

have you by chance checked your tranny fluid level?
Aww, I sure hope that the rebuild is not needed. Students are broke =[

Taking it to the fluid doctor today.
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by coldfear13
Yes when I said engage I meant to push down on the pedal, sorry for the confusion. Whats the ISB?
Input shaft bearing. Rebuild.
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
Input shaft bearing. Rebuild.

I think your 95% correct about the input shaft bearing, thats what the mechanic said today when I went to get it checked out. Also did a diagnostic for the CEL and the code was "O2 Heating Circuit". Is it common for the heater to turn on by it self (as in its coming from the engine) when you accelerate rather quit to 3rd? No signs of over heating though, new radiator and new coolant.

Thanks guys.
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 06:19 PM
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It's about an oxygen sensor..

Last edited by boris; Jan 23, 2009 at 06:23 PM.
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by coldfear13
I think your 95% correct about the input shaft bearing, thats what the mechanic said today when I went to get it checked out. Also did a diagnostic for the CEL and the code was "O2 Heating Circuit". Is it common for the heater to turn on by it self (as in its coming from the engine) when you accelerate rather quit to 3rd? No signs of over heating though, new radiator and new coolant.

Thanks guys.
By 'coming from the engine' you mean the blower motor turns on?

Then no, that's not normal or common.
Old Jan 23, 2009 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
By 'coming from the engine' you mean the blower motor turns on?

Then no, that's not normal or common.
It sounds like the blower motor turns on but you cant actually feel the air coming from the vents but it sounds as if its on "3" setting of the manual climate control. Strange.
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 11:30 AM
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For people wondering about the Energy suspention bushings that they eliminate the notchiness. Well I didn't think so But I did like the idea of a firmer more positive shifting motion so I bought them and installed them and it defenitely firms up the shifting which I like. However the notchiness is still there. I heard different things about the bushings curing the notchiness and thats why I'm reporting.
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 02nissmax
For people wondering about the Energy suspention bushings that they eliminate the notchiness. Well I didn't think so But I did like the idea of a firmer more positive shifting motion so I bought them and installed them and it defenitely firms up the shifting which I like. However the notchiness is still there. I heard different things about the bushings curing the notchiness and thats why I'm reporting.
I would agree that they don't eliminate the notchiness but just provide a more precise and solid, less sloppy shifting feel.

My old thread is here:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...tkins-sts.html

Anyway, I have some rough shifting in terms of the shifter going from 1-2-3 and back down, cold or warm. Actual engagement is fine though. Might be time to look for a new transmission.
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Puppetmaster
I would agree that they don't eliminate the notchiness but just provide a more precise and solid, less sloppy shifting feel.

My old thread is here:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...tkins-sts.html

Anyway, I have some rough shifting in terms of the shifter going from 1-2-3 and back down, cold or warm. Actual engagement is fine though. Might be time to look for a new transmission.
I'm actually fine w/ the way it's shifting even if notchy, it's not that bad.
So I'm gonna let it be.
Now, the STS piece, can you tell me what that's about? i wasn't aware of such piece existing.
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 02nissmax
I'm actually fine w/ the way it's shifting even if notchy, it's not that bad.
So I'm gonna let it be.
Now, the STS piece, can you tell me what that's about? i wasn't aware of such piece existing.
It decreases shifter throw, just like any STS. You can do it yourself for free very easily (the one on the shifter tower, not directly beneath the shifter itself).
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
It decreases shifter throw, just like any STS. You can do it yourself for free very easily (the one on the shifter tower, not directly beneath the shifter itself).
How much shorter is the throw and who makes it? I rather purchse it
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 02nissmax
How much shorter is the throw and who makes it? I rather purchse it
Not sure on the Watkins, don't think anyone's said specifically, just 'shorter'.

Don't think you can get them new anymore, though.
Old Jan 28, 2009 | 12:33 PM
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So what actually fixes the 3 gear (or 2nd gear) grind? I realize it's the syncros but wouldn't rebuilding it with the same crappy parts have the same issue again? Is there updated parts for the transmission?
Old Jan 28, 2009 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Klutch
So what actually fixes the 3 gear (or 2nd gear) grind? I realize it's the syncros but wouldn't rebuilding it with the same crappy parts have the same issue again? Is there updated parts for the transmission?
The baulk rings were updated, IIRC. That's why the A34 doesn't have the 3rd gear grind issue (or at least as prevelant as the A33).
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