Cali Spec ECU - Fed Spec Engine?
01-22-2009, 07:53 PM
#1
still brewin'
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: MA, lost in GA
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Cali Spec ECU - Fed Spec Engine?
Hello
I have a 2000 cali-spec Maxima. My original engine retired so I swapped in a fed-spec engine. I realized afterwards that there are few key diferences. My main concern is the lack of a swirl control valve on the fed-spec engine. When my project was complete, I have an open vacuum line that attatches to the swirl control valve actuator under the intake manifold. I had to check my Haynes manual to find out where it went. I used my original wiring harness and intake manifold part that has the VIAS/Swirl Control solenoid valves on the side of the manifold, so those vacuum lines and sensors are connected. But now, my service engine soon warning is on.
P1130 - Swirl Control Valve
P0505 - Idle Control System Malfunction
Is there a known work around for this? - Thank you
I have a 2000 cali-spec Maxima. My original engine retired so I swapped in a fed-spec engine. I realized afterwards that there are few key diferences. My main concern is the lack of a swirl control valve on the fed-spec engine. When my project was complete, I have an open vacuum line that attatches to the swirl control valve actuator under the intake manifold. I had to check my Haynes manual to find out where it went. I used my original wiring harness and intake manifold part that has the VIAS/Swirl Control solenoid valves on the side of the manifold, so those vacuum lines and sensors are connected. But now, my service engine soon warning is on.
P1130 - Swirl Control Valve
P0505 - Idle Control System Malfunction
Is there a known work around for this? - Thank you
01-22-2009, 08:37 PM
#3
still brewin'
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: MA, lost in GA
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01-26-2009, 09:33 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 46
When the IACV goes out, which it ultimately will, the circuit to the computer shorts out causing the ECU to burn up. There should be a fuse of some kind to protect it, but there isn't. When the ECU goes out, it is a very costly repair, and anybody knows how to put fuse and on which wires?
02-01-2009, 12:27 PM
#7
With as little faith as I have with people on this forum, even I don't think he could've meant the ECU.
02-02-2009, 09:50 AM
#9
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 46
That's what happened with my car, v starih maxima ya eshyo ne slishal chtob takoe bilo, e'to tol'ka u 00-03 Max bivaet.
02-02-2009, 03:27 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
Hero, weren't you the one saying 90% of Maxima owners have replaced there O2's and 70% had to replace there IACV?
02-02-2009, 04:41 PM
#12
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 46
, don't worry it's not about u 
Yes. i am! and still didn't fix my car yet, i already ordered new ECU so i'm waiting for it, u so worry about this? u better try to find where to put fuse for ecu it would be very helpful for a lot of 00-01 Maxima owners.
06-14-2009, 08:41 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 150
anyone found out where to put the fuse for that iacv? i just had to buy a new ecu, my last one was toast, where can i find the iacv anyhow on my car? i need to inspect it and see if maybe that thing fried my last ecu, i would need to replace it before installing the new one i just got in
06-14-2009, 10:17 PM
#15
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 48
anyone found out where to put the fuse for that iacv? i just had to buy a new ecu, my last one was toast, where can i find the iacv anyhow on my car? i need to inspect it and see if maybe that thing fried my last ecu, i would need to replace it before installing the new one i just got in
The STA309a chip maximum amps specs for the Drain are 3 amps and 6 amps when the signal pulses.
When the IACV seizes it will push up to 15 amps from the designed circuit (fuse 58) which will fry the chip which is rated at 6 amps max.
06-20-2009, 09:49 PM
#17
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well, just an update. regarding the swirl control and code P1130, since the Fed-spec engine doesn't have one, I just taped off the end of the vacuum line that goes to it. The swirl control vacuum check switch thinks that it's applying vacuum to the valve, when it's perfectly happy sucking on itself . As for the P0505, I found that my cruise control throttle cable somehow became too tight. It kept the throttle open just enough to be out of the range that the IACV could compensate for. I never really use my cruise so I just disconnected the line. Idle is perfect now. No codes for the past 4 months(first time since I bought the car) and no damaged IACV or ECU. So if you have a P0505, I'd start with my throtle cables first and see if they're out of wack.
. As for the P0505, I found that my cruise control throttle cable somehow became too tight. It kept the throttle open just enough to be out of the range that the IACV could compensate for. I never really use my cruise so I just disconnected the line. Idle is perfect now. No codes for the past 4 months(first time since I bought the car) and no damaged IACV or ECU. So if you have a P0505, I'd start with my throtle cables first and see if they're out of wack.
07-08-2009, 09:48 AM
#19
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Cali
Posts: 63
well, just an update. regarding the swirl control and code P1130, since the Fed-spec engine doesn't have one, I just taped off the end of the vacuum line that goes to it. The swirl control vacuum check switch thinks that it's applying vacuum to the valve, when it's perfectly happy sucking on itself . As for the P0505, I found that my cruise control throttle cable somehow became too tight. It kept the throttle open just enough to be out of the range that the IACV could compensate for. I never really use my cruise so I just disconnected the line. Idle is perfect now. No codes for the past 4 months(first time since I bought the car) and no damaged IACV or ECU. So if you have a P0505, I'd start with my throtle cables first and see if they're out of wack.
. As for the P0505, I found that my cruise control throttle cable somehow became too tight. It kept the throttle open just enough to be out of the range that the IACV could compensate for. I never really use my cruise so I just disconnected the line. Idle is perfect now. No codes for the past 4 months(first time since I bought the car) and no damaged IACV or ECU. So if you have a P0505, I'd start with my throtle cables first and see if they're out of wack.How would you suggest for the cables to be? not tight, kind of loose? I have po505 but my idle is not jumpy at all. the car just dies without warning
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