Soooooo, Looks like Im back again WITH YET ANOTHER DILEMMA, lol

Anyhoo, Now my car stalls out on me...Everything I've found out has been in relation to the 4th gen...and nothing really concrete


The issue at hand is when Im driving, and i get to a stop or slow down (with my foot off the gas), it feels like my car sputters to when the RPM's get below 1000...Then once i get to a complete stop it stalls out. I start the car back up and the moment the RPM's come down to about 650 - 750, the RPM's just drop the car dies on me. I then start it back up, and rev the engine continuously with no problems, and it feels like it revs with no problems. I immediately take my foot off the gas the the RPM's drop normally like then should, only when it gets down to where they should Idle, the car cuts off on me


At this point i attempt to crank it back up, and it just cranks and cranks, as if the engine is not going to turn over, I give it a couple moments and attempt again. Then it turns over, and the same processes starts all over again with me revving the engine, and letting off the gas and then once the RPM' get to 650, they drop and the car dies......This is in park, and even in gear, it does it. I recently had my Megan racing catback installed, and im not sure if this would cause an issue, granted I have noticed even more of a decrease or loss in low end torque (or lag) since ive had it installed, or maybe because ive been on the gas more. But is any one able to shed light on this


Is this a potential MAF issue? or Throttle body related...I want to take the car to the shop soon


I do have a Berk Intake, and the Megan Racing Catback....NO y-pipe yet, and I also am using the berk midpipe. I also do not have any SES codes.....granted my p0430 went out just 2 days ago...


UPDATE 2/8/09:
here is a clip of what my car is doing...a video clip that is.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfSdyipUP6Q

AND THIS IS AFTER THE THROTTLE BODY CLEANING (attempt i made), I also replaced my MAF to the new updated one:

 

I had the same problem!! Finally my husband figured it out. It could be your Cam Positon Switch,usually the bottom switch is the one that needs to be replaced.

P.S. Don't pry the switch off theres a lil technique to take this switch off.
hope this helps ya...

 

Holy crap.. she knows more than you.......and me...

 

lol


But in all seriousness.... Would this be some work that the dealership would do, and the car isnt throwing any codes....

 

It could be a load of things, i would check for codes. CEL does not have to come on for there to be a code.

 

I was having the same problem too, twice actually. except mine was the idle control valve (first), then it was my MAF. i would start by cleaning your Throttle body and your MAF. If you see improvement then you know your problem is in that vicinity, hope this helps.

 

how do i clean the throttle body...I cant seem to find a write up

 

All you have to do is take it off and buy some throttle body cleaner and just follow the instructions on the bottle, try to clean around the seal as much as possible

 

Ok kool, thanks...any particular brand i should be looking for???

Also is there something i can do for the iacv..like a re-learn or something

 

You can do an IAVL per EC-68 in the '01 FSM.

Did you mean P0340? I don't show a P0430 for an '01.

As has been said, a faulty CPS could cause stalling issues. Did the CEL go away by itself, or did you actually replace the part? That's the first place I"d be looking at, considering it's a CPS code...

 

WELL THE p0430 WAS THE precat code that I had been getting on and off all year....I just haven't gotten around to replacing the precat...closest to the radiator..

Now as far as a CPS...What is a CPS?, Excuse my newbie(ness)

thanks for the assist

 

keep us updated

 

so here is the update

I cleaned out my throttle body to the best of my ability, and ive got no SES light...HOWEVER i have a pending P0505 per the OBD II diag scanner...My idle is at about 500 RPM's now and the car "STILL" cuts off on me as soon as the engine is cut on and the RPM's drop down to the normal range...Sometimes it cuts off on the first go around, other times it stays on

I replaced the MAF sensor with the updated one, I HAVENT DRIVEN THE CAR ANYWHERE since doing all this

Im going to attempt to perform the IACV relearn...Then in the morning im taking the car to the damn stealership....Im preparered to pay at LEAST 350 dollars and upward...

Also, I see the coolant leak seems to be coming DIRECTLY from below the Throttle body, and also coming from a bolt right below the throttle body, right above the IACV to the right

 

Have you checked out the IACV yet? You're getting an IACV code, so it could be the harness or the IACV itself.

Don't go to the dealership, you'll get raped. Head over to Frank, he'll fix you up.

 

Frank? where is he located?

 

http://forums.maxima.org/washington-...ht=garage+hill

He's your man for Nissan work.

 

OHHH! OK, ill give him a shot, if i can get down if my car doesnt cut off


Oh yea....I checked the IACV harness and its nice and tight, i attempted to do a relearn, but i failed...

Here is a pic of what my throttle body coolant leak looks like

 

Probably the IACV gasket, IIRC the coolant goes through the IACV to the TB, and back out through the IACV...been a while since I touched a DE-K, though.

 

ahhh, OK THANKS BRO!......would this leak POTENTIALLY cause the car to stall like its doing...Check out the youtube link ive got posted in my initial post that started the thread

 

So the verdict is, ONE WEEK later and after attempting to clean my Throttle body, THE ISSUE didn't go away. Personally if you ask me, When i cleaned the throttle body, it made the problem worse

Now as far as the issue with bad idling and the car dying on me. I managed to get the car to the dealership and they looked at it and gave me the bad news. I had a small coolant leak that leaked inside the throttle body and killed my IAVC and shorted out my ECU. The dealer replaced my IACV, (inside the throttle body) as well as replaced the Throttle body, per my REQUEST, as well as installed and flashed the ECU. I also installed a NEW MAF. (The one with the green dot that is), days prior to me taking my car to the dealership.

So the total cost to me was 2,200 roughly. I installed new MAF, NEW air filter, and had the dealer do a new throttle body, new IACV, and a NEW ECU

Im pretty sure i could have gotten away with a damn good cleaned THROTTLE BODY, and saved some cash, but i was without my car for TWO WEEKS...and i missed it lol

I just wanted the problem to go away...Now my idle seems to be perfect and my car idles GREAT within SPEC which is 650 - 750 RPM range. Acceleration seems to be ALOT better, especially at low end, even though I have the short ram. I noticed there is no real lag any more between getting on the gas from a complete stop...Although since my rims and tires were stolen i had to go back to the oem wheels and poor tires i had

 

$2,200! How much was the ecu?

 

The ECU was FRIGGIN 700 BUX!