Ok I have a 2000 GXE. WHen I bought the car, the clutch seemed fine. 2 days of having it the clutch started to slip. Took it back they said the one was in it was new but they put a new one in anyways. Disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and clutch line. I got the car back and everything was fine. Pulled 2 inches from the floor. The day after the clutch started grabbing higher and higher on the pedal... then the pedal stuck wouldn't retract. The fluid was gone. Filled it up and went about a half of a block and all leaked out. Car lot came out filled it up and bled it. Told me to take to the carlot and did fine. He said the slave cylinder was going bad. I said ok. He replaced it, bled it... Did fine. Went back to work and got half way there and pedal started to stick again, but not as bad.... but still retract. Checked the fluid and it was leaking. He didn't tighte the bleeder valve. Filled it back up, bled it and did fine. Grabbed 2 inches from the floor. The next day pedal height got higher and higher and started to slip again. Take it back, he says the rod in the slave cylinder pushing against the clutch arm was too long. Cut a inch off of it and once again, pulled 2 inches off of the floor. Didn't slip again. Next day, still hasn't slipped. Go to get gas. Get in car, go to take off and no pull. Pop the hood, fluid was empty. Filled it back up. Pumoed the clutch pedal, no pressure building up. Checked the fluid, empty. The next day they came and got it. Looked at it and said the rod that was cut caused the slave cylinder piston to come otu too far and get stuck and made the fluid come out. Put a new rod on drove it and again did the same thing pulled 2 inches off the floor and no slipping. Oh and, the next day which is today... coming home from work and clutch started grabing higher and higher. Once again it started to slip. Made it home. Waited about 30 mins went to drive it and clutch grabbed at the VERY top of the pedal slipping real bad now. It's hard to press the clutch in and when you let off the clutch it wan'ts to force your foot up. Any ideas?

 

Ok. I found out their are two places to bleed the clutch. At the slave cylinder and the clutch reservoir. I bled the reservoir part 4 times. I drove it, did fine. But I meant to try and drive it before I did it since it cooled down. What's the chances of it driving fine between the two options? Leting it cool down or bleeding at the reservoir? It's dark out but if I'm not mistaking. I thought I seen in the line at the reservoir that there was a half an inch area was lighter and when I released the valve it moved out of sight and the area became darker with the fluid as if it may of had air in it. could their be air getting in the lines causing not enough pressure to the clutch system and making it slip? No engage all the way?

 

Jeez......some major screwups here. When all this was occuring were you able to get the car in gear and shift without clashing/grinding of gears all the time? To the second poster......pushing the clutch pedal down releases the clutch......it does not engage it. The clutch is/should be "normally" engaged.

 

You still owe me $20 via paypal for the knock sensor I paid for in October of 2008. What's going on. It's been two weeks since I've heard anything from you.

 

This is all very strange. Having air in the lines or being low on fluid causes the clutch to stay engaged and not shift properly. It won't cause slipping unless the fluid makes its way onto the clutch. It would also make the clutch engage and disengage closer to the floor not higher up.

I would demand they let you take it to someone competent and pay the bill. These guys obviously don't have a clue.

 

maybe you just need a new clutch

 

^^was just about to say the same thing

 

They put a new clutch in it. The clutch that was in it looked new itself. The first clutch that was in it was as thick as the new one and was doing the same thing.

 

Oh yeah. No, when I **** gears it's fine. Very smooth and easy to go in gear and out of... Just glides in and out. Reverse is kind of hard to get out of. I don't think theres anything leaking that would make the clutch wet since the one they took out was bone dry

 

i bled the line some more w a brake bleeding kit and there was a whole lot of tiny air bubbles. It started raining so I didnt get to finish but most of them r gone. I drove it for aboutr an hour and did fine but I plan on bleeding it some more

 

OMG! Cutting the ROD because its to long, thats a sign right there that guy knows nothing about cars. Take it to someone else, that guys an idiot.

 

Well the card did good for 2 days and now it's slipping again. I havent had a chance to try and bleed it again. Should I bleed the slave cylinder AND clutch master cylinder? If so.. what process should I take? The clutch master cylinder first and then the slave cylinder or vice versa? Also on another note.... On the air intake, you have the black thing connected to the radiator support with the MAF sensor and some other sensor on the side. Anyways I took the sensor plug on the side of the box and was fiddling with the clutch arm... I forgot to plug it back up and started the car and now the service engine soon light is on. I turned the car off, hooked it back up but the light is still on. Do I have to rest the code or something? If so how do I go about doing it?

 

Where is the clutch fluid going?

 

the fluid is staying in now. its not leaking... im guessing either the master cylinder needs to be replaced... air is getting in the lines... the free play needs to be adjusted (how do i do this?) or the flywheel didn't get resurfaced

 

A bad slave cylinder or clutch resovioir only means you cant release the clutch to shift. If it was my car i would take the trans out and see what they screwed up on. I believe this is where you problem is, not the slave cyliner or clutch resevoir. They now have cut that rod, so who knows what kinda problem that will cause now.

 

Im have a feeling either the flywheel has heat marks or oil on it or something and they didn't resurface the fly wheel. Or the fly wheel itself is warped or something. When I go from 3rd to 2nd, the clutch doesn't want to grab right. It shakes a little. I tried to adjust the free play... but wtf. It's literally impossible. I got a book on the car, says theres a lock nut to unloosen, but what lock nut? The only lock nut type deal on the rod is on the bracket attatching to the rod and clutch pedal and that nut is welded onto the bracket. Another not, at very low RPMs when I accelerate, theres this little clunking or knocking noise in the tranny until RPMS get higher...?

 

I've seen a bunch of factors.
A.) Warped flywheel, heat marks or glazing.
B.) Oil/grease on flywheel, clutch disc or pressure plate
C.) Bolts on the flywheel not torqued to specifications
D.) Bent fork

I plan on taking it to my own mechanic and let them fix it. I'd like to hand them a list of options of what could be causing it to slip. Once I do this, I'll let him take his time and work on it and once done I'll hand the bill statement to the car lot and let them deal with that. Any other options of slipping causes?