EDIT _ FIXED THE ISSUE I finally tracked down this issue. My crankshaft postion sensor was loose. Crazy.... Tightened it and now it drive perfect! Must have came loose during my header install.

I was driving to work this morning and everything was fine until I picked up my daily redbull at the gas station. I didnt purchase gas or anything. I left and since I just had some headers installed I was going to floor the car once I got strait. So I got strait, floored the car and the car starting jerking wildly kind of like it wanted to go but kept changing its mind. I was flooring the car and was loosing speed. I pulled off the side of the road and noticed I could drive just fine as long as I kept the car below 1.5-2 rpms.

I turned off the car and was puzzled. I waited for traffic to die down and grannied it back home. I pulled all of the ignition coils and tested them all of the were about 1.56 ohms. I had 6 NGK platniums already at the house as I was going to change the spark plugs relativly soon. I have a extra MAF so I changed that out too and still made no difference.

So I replaced all off the spark plugs and put the coils back in but I noticed that on the rear bank there was oil on the middle plug that plugs into the middle coil.

I re-installed everything and went for a drive and I was able to get to 4.5 rpms and it seems that as soon as the car got hot it started to not let me get the higher rpms. I evently was only able to get to 1.5 rpms again.

I am currently only running with 1 o2 sensor and its basiclly a secondary that I pluged into the primary hole. New spark plugs and new MAF. What could the problem be?

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

Check engine light on? if so, pull the codes and start there..

 

You need to have at least 2 O2 sensors for primary reading. Perhaps the MAF you had lying around was also dead, try a brand new one.

 

the not being able to rev sounds like a maf problem but you should definitely have o2's or at least sims

 

since this happened right after you got the headers done then you should start trouble shooting from that general area...its most likely o2 related
good luck

 

Well I put the primary o2 Sensor back in. I thought maybe it was dead so I tried another one. I just went for a drive and same story as before for like the 1st 2 minutes I was driving it drove perfect then after the engine reached normal temp it started that crap again.... I'm gonna try that MAF sensor test next.

 

So I pulled the MAF sensor and the car died. I did forget to mention that I had stripped a stud on the left side of the IM. I had used a bigger screw and thought it had been ok. When I re-did my IM again today the screw was totally stripped. I didnt even have to screw it out I can just pull it.

I had started the car up after I pulled the MAF and had noticed a high pitch noise and it seems to be comming from that side of the IM. I wonder if the seal is good when the car is cold but it's bad when the car is hot. I had pulled that vacum hose that connects to the left side of the IM and I didnt really notice that big of a difference in Idle. I guess my question is now would a intake leak cause the symtoms I'm describing. I'll search but if anyone else has any suggestions let me know.

 

I was hoping, I mean expecting, pictures of a 3.5 in pieces.....how disappointing... Please change thread name....

 

at low rpm's a vacuum leak won't do anything but at high rpms it would lessen the amount of air being drawn through the intake tube past the MAF and your car would effectively starve itself.

 

.... it does sound like a maf prob.

 

Does sound like a vacuum leak problem, maybe having to do with the stripped bolt...

 

I fixed the Intake leak and it still wont let me rev past 1500 rpms when the engine gets warmed up. I guess I'll have to buy another MAF sensor and see if that fixes it. Could it be anything else like fuel injectors? It just seems weird that it will run fine until the engine reaches normal operating temp.

 

Maf is all i can think of.

 

I pulled the codes today and came up with this...

P0335
P0051
P0113 <---- running with a 01 MAF with no IAT
P0335

The since I'm using one of those pocketScan It gave me this as well

MIL ON <-- Check engine Light on
Monitors
3 INC <-- I belive this means they are incomplete monitors
Catalyst
EVAP
o2 Sensor

Then it says
4 Ready
Misfire
Fuel
COMP
o2 Htr

Anybody have any clues on whats going on?

Edit: I forgot to mention that the misfire may be there because I started pulling Coil plugs yesterday to rule out spark plugs and coils.

 

The P0335 points directly to Crankshaft Position Sensor. There was a recall for this.

 

you said that you saw oil near your spark plug correct? If so then it could be that you have a bad valve cover, or valve cover gasket and oil is getting in. When the oil gets into the spark plug it prevents it from making a spark, which would cause a misfire. Then your coil pack for that cylinder is also drenched in oil which is causing issues with the coil packs.

 

times two

 

My 2000 Maxima SE is doing the same thing. I have replaced coils, plugs, camshaft sensor and the MAF....and it seems worse. It actually cuts off when i come to stop lights or stop signs..
Next move are the crank shaft position sensors.

Can anyone tell me or show me where the crankshaft position sensors are?

Thanks

 

So does a P0340 (bank 1 sensor). My car behaves exactly like described in the OP's first post if I get on the gas too hard when the engine is cold or if I hit the rev limiter. Code reader shows a pending P0340 but it has never given me an actual SES light. I turn off the car, clear the code and it drives perfectly fine again. Replaced the sensor, checked the grounds for the VTC solenoids (on the timing cover) and the connection. If I keep it to half throttle or less until the engine fully warms up or don't hit the rev limiter, no problem.