Dropped off the car today (Header and Spacer Install)
Right, so after all this crap is now in my thread... If you think I paid too much, totally fine. You can express that. Saying it multiple times is pointless and irritating. So please, if you're gonna just thread crap, you can definitely stay out of this thread.
Anyone have anything constructive to say? Overall, I'm happy with how the car feels, pulls like a b!tch. I'm hoping to buy a magnaflo cat off of a dude here, just waiting for him to get back to me. Will the high flow still be raspy? Would it just be better to go to stock??
Anyone have anything constructive to say? Overall, I'm happy with how the car feels, pulls like a b!tch. I'm hoping to buy a magnaflo cat off of a dude here, just waiting for him to get back to me. Will the high flow still be raspy? Would it just be better to go to stock??
Right, so after all this crap is now in my thread... If you think I paid too much, totally fine. You can express that. Saying it multiple times is pointless and irritating. So please, if you're gonna just thread crap, you can definitely stay out of this thread.
Anyone have anything constructive to say? Overall, I'm happy with how the car feels, pulls like a b!tch. I'm hoping to buy a magnaflo cat off of a dude here, just waiting for him to get back to me. Will the high flow still be raspy? Would it just be better to go to stock??
Anyone have anything constructive to say? Overall, I'm happy with how the car feels, pulls like a b!tch. I'm hoping to buy a magnaflo cat off of a dude here, just waiting for him to get back to me. Will the high flow still be raspy? Would it just be better to go to stock??
I'm sure they're worthless, so keep it to yourself.
Like I said, I don't mind the loudness. I'm pretty sure the rasp is from the test pipe. I just wanted to know if there were big sound and performance differences between the high flow and the stock cat.
There is negligible difference in flow between stock and a hi-flow cat. As for sound I don't know. I also don't know if the test pipe is the key culprit to your raspy tune. Most people with headers and a catback (with cat) claim their exhaust is loud and the only "cure" is reversion to stock axle-back.
Anyone have anything constructive to say? Overall, I'm happy with how the car feels, pulls like a b!tch. I'm hoping to buy a magnaflo cat off of a dude here, just waiting for him to get back to me. Will the high flow still be raspy? Would it just be better to go to stock??
Just something else to consider, how gives a crap about HP? Take her down to the track and start timing your runs. IMHO, I really don't car how many hp a car has, I find a 10 second run far more impressive than xxxHP.
Track her, time, weight reduction, profit
With all due respect, did you form a solid plan of attack before you started doing all of this? It strikes me that you presently have an idea of what you want but are simply throwing cash and bolt-ons in rnadom order in an attempt to achieve your goals.
Just something else to consider, how gives a crap about HP? Take her down to the track and start timing your runs. IMHO, I really don't car how many hp a car has, I find a 10 second run far more impressive than xxxHP.
Track her, time, weight reduction, profit
Just something else to consider, how gives a crap about HP? Take her down to the track and start timing your runs. IMHO, I really don't car how many hp a car has, I find a 10 second run far more impressive than xxxHP.
Track her, time, weight reduction, profit
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,898
From: Philadelphia, PA
There is negligible difference in flow between stock and a hi-flow cat. As for sound I don't know. I also don't know if the test pipe is the key culprit to your raspy tune. Most people with headers and a catback (with cat) claim their exhaust is loud and the only "cure" is reversion to stock axle-back.
and headers doesn't necessarily mean that your exhaust will be unbearably loud.. i have headers and a 3" catback, and my car is reasonably quiet:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cshg_4dZ_FA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQ6HuuGfUlM
they key to keeping sound down with headers is getting a huge resonator and fairly large muffler.. but the OP doesn't care about volume, so... stock cat = happy OP
Last edited by wyche89; Apr 3, 2009 at 05:19 PM.
It's hard to say if 240+ tuned is good or bad on a Mustang dyno. While they are great for tuning, the final numbers depend on how that particular dyno is calibrated. If you want to compare numbers with others on the internet, you need to get on a Dynojet, use SAE corrected numbers, and if possible, obtain your runfiles.
I'm not saying that the Dynojet is most accurate, but in the world of the internet dynos, it seems to be the most easily comparable with other Dynojet dynos done at different shops, done on different days, etc.
Just my two cents on the numbers.
I'm not saying that the Dynojet is most accurate, but in the world of the internet dynos, it seems to be the most easily comparable with other Dynojet dynos done at different shops, done on different days, etc.
Just my two cents on the numbers.
Yeah, 12hp. I forgot the graph in the car, I'll post it up tomorrow. Like I said, some parts of the before and after showed a difference of 20hp, but peak was only 12hp. He said something that the VAFC I bought was kinda messed up and it wouldn't let him into certain setting and he could only tune it above 4k (I bought it for like $100 used) and it was a correction of -.2% or something like that if that means anything to you guys.
Which is it? The VAFC-II was claimed to be not working properly, then you say it was tuned properly. If the unit was faulty, are you certain it was tuned properly? Is he certain he had the unit set up correctly to begin with? Did he correctly interpolate the low and hi settings to use all 24 correction points? Just saying is all. You spent all that money, they better have it done right.
I had a plan, but my plan was that I just wanted the car to perform better and be faster. Unfortunately, there really are no tracks around here. I'm not sure which would be the best route for weight reduction, I need all my seats and everything, so taking out interior parts aren't an option.
Which is it? The VAFC-II was claimed to be not working properly, then you say it was tuned properly. If the unit was faulty, are you certain it was tuned properly? Is he certain he had the unit set up correctly to begin with? Did he correctly interpolate the low and hi settings to use all 24 correction points? Just saying is all. You spent all that money, they better have it done right.
Too pricy haha that's why I went this route, I didn't want to shell out the $$$ to get the turbo.
You know what I just noticed? I swear I thought my best run was 230 hp before the tune! Maybe he corrected it or I got numbers confused, I don't know. But the graph's numbers say that the best run before the tune was 226whp/218tq and after was 243whp/237tq. So that's a gain of 17hp/19tq. So it's higher than I though, and that's with the VAFC being stupid. So really, I'm happier now that I looked the graph over better! 
Maybe I'll get better numbers if I replace the VAFC. How much better would it be if I had a UTEC?
Maybe I'll get better numbers if I replace the VAFC. How much better would it be if I had a UTEC?
If you look up the capabilities of the UTEC (not to mention the applications its being used in, cost, method of install for this specific ECU, etc), the answer will be self evident.
VTEC Air Fuel Contoller. It's specifically for Honda's because of the VTEC tuning abilities, but it will work on any car really, but if it's anything but a Honda, you can't really use the VTEC feature. It monitors air and fuel and adjust it accordingly to make sure the mixture is correct.
Most people use the VAFC-2 over the SAFC-2 because it has more tuning points on it. And to the OP you really should have picked up more then that...whenever I put on my Cattman's on a year ago I didn't know my base numbers but I know that whenever the guy put my car on the dyno untuned and then after he tuned it I picked up just 10whp from the tune...some of your problem might be that you have more power to be had up top with the headers and the VIAS being open all the way now. I bet if he had taken it up a couple hundred RPM's your car would have still been gaining power and you would have had higher peak numbers.
Most people use the VAFC-2 over the SAFC-2 because it has more tuning points on it. And to the OP you really should have picked up more then that...whenever I put on my Cattman's on a year ago I didn't know my base numbers but I know that whenever the guy put my car on the dyno untuned and then after he tuned it I picked up just 10whp from the tune...some of your problem might be that you have more power to be had up top with the headers and the VIAS being open all the way now. I bet if he had taken it up a couple hundred RPM's your car would have still been gaining power and you would have had higher peak numbers.
One problem I am having right now is that with the spacers, sometimes over bumps the manifold is hitting the FSTB. That's even with the ES mounts. There is hardly any clearance, I think I'm going to take it out. And I'm not sure whats up if it's the manifold vibrating on the FSTB or if it's my right coilover, but sometimes, depending on RPM and speed, I get a pulsing sound/fell from the right front. Has me stumped, hoping it has something to do with the FSTB, as that will be out soon.
Hmm, thanks for the info man. Gives me something to think about.
One problem I am having right now is that with the spacers, sometimes over bumps the manifold is hitting the FSTB. That's even with the ES mounts. There is hardly any clearance, I think I'm going to take it out. And I'm not sure whats up if it's the manifold vibrating on the FSTB or if it's my right coilover, but sometimes, depending on RPM and speed, I get a pulsing sound/fell from the right front. Has me stumped, hoping it has something to do with the FSTB, as that will be out soon.
One problem I am having right now is that with the spacers, sometimes over bumps the manifold is hitting the FSTB. That's even with the ES mounts. There is hardly any clearance, I think I'm going to take it out. And I'm not sure whats up if it's the manifold vibrating on the FSTB or if it's my right coilover, but sometimes, depending on RPM and speed, I get a pulsing sound/fell from the right front. Has me stumped, hoping it has something to do with the FSTB, as that will be out soon.
Hmm, thanks for the info man. Gives me something to think about.
One problem I am having right now is that with the spacers, sometimes over bumps the manifold is hitting the FSTB. That's even with the ES mounts. There is hardly any clearance, I think I'm going to take it out. And I'm not sure whats up if it's the manifold vibrating on the FSTB or if it's my right coilover, but sometimes, depending on RPM and speed, I get a pulsing sound/fell from the right front. Has me stumped, hoping it has something to do with the FSTB, as that will be out soon.
One problem I am having right now is that with the spacers, sometimes over bumps the manifold is hitting the FSTB. That's even with the ES mounts. There is hardly any clearance, I think I'm going to take it out. And I'm not sure whats up if it's the manifold vibrating on the FSTB or if it's my right coilover, but sometimes, depending on RPM and speed, I get a pulsing sound/fell from the right front. Has me stumped, hoping it has something to do with the FSTB, as that will be out soon.
I've got spacers and a non-polished UIM and don't rub. That's with a Racingline FSTB. The one you are using may me wider.
My IM rubbed on the FSTB when I put the spacers in but I just put some washers under the mounting plate for the FSTB and it gave me enough clearance so it doesn't touch at all and its not so high that it rubs on the hood either. Much easier than polising or grinding the IM
The difference in sound between the stock cat and the cattman fast cat is negligible. I had the stock cat on with my headers but failed emissions, replaced it with the fast cat and passed no problem. I did not notice any change in sound or volume of the headers.
How did you fail emissions with the stock cat?? Was it old and clogged or something? So you didnt get any raspyness with either of the cats?
I ruined it by running too rich for about 8 months after my header install. I never had raspyness, I bought cattman headers and full catback
Oh alright. I refuse to buy a $300+ OEM one so I need to find a used cat from somewhere. I was also thinking about the warpspeed fast cat. Any good? Will it keep the rasp down?
Is ther really gonna be any difference sound or performance wise between the WS cat and like a universal one? As long as it's not choking the car, I don't care.
Yes performance wise it will free up the flow! The oem cat can barely be see thru, I'm sure the Oem couldn't pass a sewing needle thru the core, it's that small! But the Hi flow core can probably handle a drafting pencil lead and fall straight thru it! The sound may change, I'm not sure cause I installed mine along with my Cattman exhaust system which changed the sound for sure!
Alright, well I need to get a new cat. Is the Warpspeed the best to go with? I just want to confirm before I make a purchase. I want something that will get rid of the rasp. And OEM cat hasn't come up for a good price, so I was thinking the WS one or a magnaflow one. What's gonna be the best to go with?
Alright, well I need to get a new cat. Is the Warpspeed the best to go with? I just want to confirm before I make a purchase. I want something that will get rid of the rasp. And OEM cat hasn't come up for a good price, so I was thinking the WS one or a magnaflow one. What's gonna be the best to go with?
Here is the clip before the headers like I said I would get uploaded. Pardon the $hitty camera quality, but you get the idea.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2S-aPpnadGQ
