Well guys I've had my CM Headers, Wsp Ms Cat, CM Catback, and various other bolt-ons installed now for awhile (no tune) so I decided to go get some practice at the drags and get so numbers since I haven't been there since 2006. I set all my Illuminas to 5, set tire pressure (warm) to 25 psi, removed baby seat and blankets (b4 I left home), weighed car before running 1/4 mi. 3305 lbs. w/o driver; 3525 lbs w/driver. Last time here with Cm Y-pipe, WSP Ms cat, Cm catback system, with Oem rear muffler installed and stock suspension: best run> (rt) .578, (60ft) 2.215, (330ft) 6.259, (1/8) 9.564 @ 75.56 mph, (1000ft) 12.428, (1/4) 14.863 @ 91.42 mph, No power braking just stumping it.... With Cm headers and etc...(rt).447, (60ft) 2.177, (330ft) 6.170, (1/8) 9.446 @ 76.45 mph, (1000ft) 12.277, (1/4) 14.682 @ 93.35 mph...Just stumping it again...Not happy with trap speed, reinstalling Cattman rear muffler assembly cause I think the Oem muffler is choking the airflow thru the engine at higher rpm. Tomorrow I will power brake the trans to about 1000 rpm if possible and maybe even manually shift the auto to increase the trap speed! The upper rpm power seems to be flattening some and maybe that's the drive-by-wire TB doing it's job choking off the air via the ECU. I'll try the Cattman rear muffler and stumping it first to see if I gain anything using the same procedure as B4, then after a few runs, I'll power brake it off the line and see what I can get....Low end power is awesome jumped a G8, ZO6, & Tundra off the line G8 GT beat me by about a fender, ZO6 jumped my *** about 175 ft from the startline, and that big *** but fast Tundra got left by about 1.5 cars off the line. Still working on my launch, reaction time, 60 ft, and trap speed....

 

sounds like you need a driver mod. but seriously tune may help in this area as well.

Sick car!!

 

Yeah I'm modding that driver right now! LOL....

 

man sounds good! why didnt ya give me a call to come with ya!!! haha jk the sexima is broken not gonna be fixed for awhile....

 

2.1 60' on street tires is pretty good, your problem is you are an auto

 

2.1 60ft. on street tires is great.. driver mod not needed since the first 60 ft is the only place the driver mod matters in an auto.. good times man

 

Thanks, I thought i was going crazy! I changed the muffler to the Cattman still running 2.17 (60ft) 14.6 with a 30mph headwind today!

Tried manually shifting it about the same time as well (very scary) down to RT of .274 and not coming off line hard enough poor 60ft of 2.285, 1/4 14.7 92.8 mph, need to practice that alot more but ECU I believe is the culprit! That 2-3 shift still flat like, TS ECU reflash should cure that flat spot and a tune!

What happened? The muffler change really made no difference! So I'll reinstall that stealthy Oem trick piece! I'm sure it's a ECU obstacle! I'll check out the AFR with my wideband to see where I am at...I'm sure it's that or maybe a simple tune!!! On the highway this car is a beast!

 

Suprastick would make you shift quicker.

 

So CMAX does that mean the Catt Muff is up 4 sale

 

No! I'm keeping that, I'll be trying some things to quiet things down, it's not unbearably loud it's the 2000-2500 rpm drone with the headers that is audible in to the cabin. So I found some pieces that will reduce DB's with minimum flow loss.

 

Alright

 

Have your plugs ever been changed? Seems like your car is laying down a bit on top end. A tune and VIAS block-off plate might help. The Technosquare reflash is supposed to correct the ECU dialing back throttle on top end and lean the mixture out some.

 

Fastest Maxima in the world is auto.

 

Scottwax have not changed the plugs since installing iridiums a few months after I purchased the car back in 2003! The fwd bank was done only (bank2), but I'm about to change all the coils and plugs while upgrading to the NWP spacers. The VIAS block off mod is not worth the lost of my bottom end torque...there is; a sacrifice! I've had a second ECU from a I35 with traction control to have reflashed and the immobilizer copied from my presently installed Oem Ecu. The tune will be the last thing I do if I'm not satisfied with the TS reflash! But I'm pretty sure it's the Ecu program, but those spacers will help me out a little more cause the torque is awesomely strong out the hole I'll be addressing a few some tweaks to come out even harder! This is really my wife's car by the way but it's pretty heavily modded....Man the Oem muffler is hard to beat!

 

Exactly why you should sell me that Old Cattman piece of junk

 

But that does have a slight power adder.

 

I spent a lot of time polishing those tips!
Believe me it's not junk I'm just gonna be try to quiet the muff down a little it's so nice looking!

 

Lol was being sarcastic just trying my luck, I guess i'll have to save up for a new one since no one will let go of there's Anyway good luck on it

 

The dyno graph posted from another forum showed a 10 hp loss between 2800-3800 rpms but 10 hp gain from 3800 to redline, maybe a slight hp loss out of the hole might help our cars hook a little better and some extra top end would be nice. If you are doing the spacers, that should pump the midrange back up anyway since that is where the gains are. Plugs should help too, especially since only the bank 2 plugs are even remotely new.

You definitely have the launch down based on your 60' times.

 

I'll getting better! But I'm shooting for .100 and lower RT and lower 60ft times maybe 2.0 and below on street tires!

 

I think Scott is on the mark here.

• Bottom-end loss should reduce tire slippage off the line
• 10 hp between 2800-3800 is not an issue. If you watch the automatic shift points at WOT, your car never drops down to 3800 rpm. The only time you use the < 4000 RPM range is for launch.

 

Yeah I think he's on the mark also! But Tire slippage and grip off the line isn't a problem, and it's more than 10 hp being loss up top. I'll be dynoing it very soon plus, I'm about to purchase a G-Tech Accelerometer system to test me stuff realtime and back to back and I can concentrate on 50-80 mph acceleration, 0-60 mph, 100ft, 60ft, pretty much whatever, and compare the data with different setups to find the parts and mods that really work with another mods, and really eliminate that one dimensional dyno B.S. for reallife numbers, which include airflow(ram), air friction, rolling resistance and traction dynamics. But the plugs again will be checked, read and changed (all 6) once the spacers are here along with the coil packs! Then I'll be able to really see what's going on with those untouchable rear plugs! I appreciate all the positive feedback guys! Scott are you in an Auto 3.5? You got any 1/4mi times?

 

Took the car out tonite and performed a wideband test on the car! With the entire Injen intake system installed and dropping the throttle to the floor a the AFR went to 13.1 and slowly but surely ended at 12.6. Well removing the lower half of the intake more of a short ram; At WOT the AFR dropped to 12.2 and stayed between 12.0 to 12.5 and it seemed to pull harder! It's possible that the intake tract is to long to net somemore whp and looks like I'll be trying out that BERK Intake if I net some extra Mph in the 1/4 in this short ram configuration!

 

Isnt the Injen intake the one where the filter it right by the radiator? All that hot air couldnt be helping either. But intake track is as long as the Injen and my car has never felt better but I placed the filter behind the headlight.

 

I got it wrapped with thermal wrap and a "Cool It" barrier sleeve as well , just got a large plastic panel to make as a thermal barrier, It not quite direct behind the radiator but down to the side of! The short ram performed well and the AFR stayed in the sweet spot 12.2-12.5 which is optimum for an all motor setup!

 

I thought it was 13.0-13.3. I have heard that for years. When I tuned my old car we made the most power in that range. But I do hear it tends to vary engine to engine.

 

That probably will make slightly more but that's the lean side of N/a performance afr 12.5 is the safe side!
When the entire Injen itake system is installed it starts somewhere around 13.1 @ WOT...but that's out of all the performance books I have and that's the target TS shoots for!

 

When you did gate shift how did it effect the outcome, also do you have the tranny mod ( the resistor unplugged or disengaged so it shifts at 100% pressure?)

the 60 ft times are really good. I have an auto as-well.

 

+10 million.......... no possible comebacks for that one............ u owe him a slap in the head

 

I almost equaled my stumping method but I made 3 errors on the 3 manual shifted runs I attempted and still run 93 mph. The fast 60' was not gate shifted (maually shifted) it was modulation of the throttle to hook up really good!