5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

5.5 Gen dyno FAIL!

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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 02:04 PM
  #41  
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Vacuum gauge is about $20 max.
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 02:06 PM
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Got ya, I can go pick one up when I have time....MAYBE today...depends lol
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 04:23 PM
  #43  
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hey when aaron sells the spacer kits does it come with longer bolts with it to compensate the extra space?? Stormz who installed it for you?? Maybe he mixed in some of the stock bolts in with the longer one. Not to down your mechanic but its very possible

Edit: i see that aaron does sell it with the longer bolts. I agree with alot of the guys who posted on here it does sound like you are getting some un metered air somewhere.

Last edited by Product_Of_Korea; Apr 26, 2009 at 04:26 PM.
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 04:25 PM
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Yeah dude it comes with longer bolts, it was DB Performance in Rogers....I'm sure you've heard of them as they are a well known shop here in Minnesota lol....I looked and all the bolts are the shiny new ones provided lol
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 04:40 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Stormzusmc
Yeah dude it comes with longer bolts, it was DB Performance in Rogers....I'm sure you've heard of them as they are a well known shop here in Minnesota lol....I looked and all the bolts are the shiny new ones provided lol

Hmmmmmmm It really seems like its something with the spacer install. considering they had to install twice maybe they got some more rtv in the way of the injectors or they messed up somewhere.

When you got your car back after the spacer install did you feel any diffrence??(sorry if you already answered this i skimmed though your thread)

I wish you lived closer so i could take a look at it.......
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 04:45 PM
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After the first install no not really because it was cold out anyway you only really feel performance gains in more warm weather....and after the second install it stopped bogging after start up...

To be more detailed with the start up, it would fire up quick right away if I let it sit for a while. However if it was like 20min-3hrs it would bog (like going into the store etc).... He tried to say that it was the number of revolutions and blah blah, but I heard it catch, lag, and then fire up to full idle...needless to say they resolved that during the second install.....

You can come now lol! Wife and baby are out of town for 2 months! Ill hit ya with gas money if that helps!
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Stormzusmc
After the first install no not really because it was cold out anyway you only really feel performance gains in more warm weather....and after the second install it stopped bogging after start up...

To be more detailed with the start up, it would fire up quick right away if I let it sit for a while. However if it was like 20min-3hrs it would bog (like going into the store etc).... He tried to say that it was the number of revolutions and blah blah, but I heard it catch, lag, and then fire up to full idle...needless to say they resolved that during the second install.....

You can come now lol! Wife and baby are out of town for 2 months! Ill hit ya with gas money if that helps!
Man then i can see how you would suspect a injector. Well i may have some spare injectors here soon. depending on if 96nismo wants my 00vi or not.

If you can i would do what krrz suggested with the fuel rail upright and check the injectors spray.

LOL what am i suppose to do with my wife and 4 kids lol
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 04:59 PM
  #48  
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No clue how to do it lol..I'm sure I could figure it out lol...but I'd rather have another shop do it instead....
LOL wow 4....2 is good for me, but I only have 1 now...

Eh just tell them you'll be back later you gotta go help some noobcake with his car
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 05:16 PM
  #49  
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Did you try out any of the suggestions yet?

S
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by maximase86
Did you try out any of the suggestions yet?

S
I have not...today is paperwork and what not day...woke up late as well...raining outside...

i should have time this week...all the ideas i get will be tried out within the next week or so
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 05:29 PM
  #51  
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That sucks, keep us posted. I'm interested to see what it turns out to be.
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 05:30 PM
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eh get your hands dirty!!!!!!

j\k Maybe i can get off early this week maybe i could come down and check out the injectors. Id be pretty tempted to just put the oem gaskets back on the lower....... If the injectors pan out to be good
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by maximase86
That sucks, keep us posted. I'm interested to see what it turns out to be.
Yeah I will...I'm quite curious as well!
Originally Posted by locknuts
eh get your hands dirty!!!!!!

j\k Maybe i can get off early this week maybe i could come down and check out the injectors. Id be pretty tempted to just put the oem gaskets back on the lower....... If the injectors pan out to be good
Lol I have no problem getting my hands dirty!

Come down, are you in Duluth or something?

EDIT: NM saw Forest Lake.

Last edited by Stormzusmc; Apr 26, 2009 at 05:39 PM.
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 08:28 PM
  #54  
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Sweet another dyno day next weekend here in MN

SO hopefully I can get things squared away before then....

At this point check the following -
I can do these....
Propane/inj cleaner check for drop in idle for leak
injector spray

Don't know how do to these but anyway...
compression test
vacuum test

any other ideas?
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 09:11 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Stormzusmc
Sweet another dyno day next weekend here in MN

SO hopefully I can get things squared away before then....

At this point check the following -
I can do these....
Propane/inj cleaner check for drop in idle for leak
injector spray

Don't know how do to these but anyway...
compression test
vacuum test

any other ideas?
a shop should be able to do compression test and vacuum test for a nominal fee.

Vacuum test is just a smoke machine and see where the leaks are
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 09:15 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by DrunkieTheBear
a shop should be able to do compression test and vacuum test for a nominal fee.

Vacuum test is just a smoke machine and see where the leaks are
Thats what I was thinking, I will probably get it done on Tuesday...or Friday lol....

Man I just can't believe a 3.5 w/ mods is making around 175HP....not even 190TQ....it's still quick, but man once I figure this out......HUGE difference I'm assuming
Old Apr 26, 2009 | 09:31 PM
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Maybe I should also mention that from 60-90 in 2nd gear (auto) if I put it to the floor I get the instant jerk into the seat but it feel the same as 1/2 to 3/4 throttle however with 1/2-3/4 there is no instant jerk as I put it down gradual...
Old Apr 27, 2009 | 12:41 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Stormzusmc
Maybe I should also mention that from 60-90 in 2nd gear (auto) if I put it to the floor I get the instant jerk into the seat but it feel the same as 1/2 to 3/4 throttle however with 1/2-3/4 there is no instant jerk as I put it down gradual...
Stomping and gradual gassing feel the same..kinda weird. How does it feel like when you floor it compared to stock?
Old Apr 27, 2009 | 02:42 PM
  #59  
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I've done comparisons on 2nd vs 3rd, etc. 2md gives a far smoother curve, but is really lacking in the torque department, but it also gives you more RPM before downshifting, so you can get a better part of the RPM band. 3rd gives a somewhat choppier curve, but, IMO, gives the best representation of the true output.

Also, your operator needs to connect your coil pack correctly to the dyno machine (black wire, not the entire bundle). It looks like he may have wrapped the entire bundle judging from the lapses / spikes in data.

Another important note is that I would not believe the tailsniffer unless you have removed all of your catalytic convertors, as they tend to give a false lean reading.
Old Apr 27, 2009 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by StockedOut
Stomping and gradual gassing feel the same..kinda weird. How does it feel like when you floor it compared to stock?
I don't remember 100%...The acceleration feels the same once the peddle gets to the floor vs once it gets to 1/2-3/4.

Originally Posted by NmexMAX
I've done comparisons on 2nd vs 3rd, etc. 2md gives a far smoother curve, but is really lacking in the torque department, but it also gives you more RPM before downshifting, so you can get a better part of the RPM band. 3rd gives a somewhat choppier curve, but, IMO, gives the best representation of the true output.

Also, your operator needs to connect your coil pack correctly to the dyno machine (black wire, not the entire bundle). It looks like he may have wrapped the entire bundle judging from the lapses / spikes in data.

Another important note is that I would not believe the tailsniffer unless you have removed all of your catalytic convertors, as they tend to give a false lean reading.
They could've messed up the hook up, but another buddy was there in a 6th gen and got a decent curve, and about 210hp 223tq with just a Jita intake.....I'm not sure
Old Apr 27, 2009 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Stormzusmc



They could've messed up the hook up, but another buddy was there in a 6th gen and got a decent curve, and about 210hp 223tq with just a Jita intake.....I'm not sure
It's not part of your problem, but it would help you get a more usable dyno next time.
Old Apr 28, 2009 | 12:05 AM
  #62  
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Nmexmax where have you been?

you were suppose to call me and go to the bar with me, WTF man.
Old Apr 28, 2009 | 12:45 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by mastercater7
You should spend more time reading and learning facts than posting incorrect ones. Also, your stupid conversations in the middle of your posts are not necessary and make you sound like an idiot.

I agree with maximase86, I have had some lean issues just like yours that were caused by vacuum leaks. I was in the 14-15 AFR range as well.
Really? You talk ish and call names and all you have to say is it might be a vacume leak? WOW!!! Why dont you tell this guy how you fixed yours and help him out a bit. Sounds to me like the pot is trying to call the kettle black. The timing advance is not helping him at all, and thats stright from the mouth of a Nissan tech at Allen Webb Nissan. It may not be his problem but I would have it changed back asap.
Old Apr 28, 2009 | 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
It's not part of your problem, but it would help you get a more usable dyno next time.
Yeah I wouldnt have thought so, thanks for the input though...I'm not going to the same place for another dyno so we shall next this weekend...

Originally Posted by Revs2Hard
Really? You talk ish and call names and all you have to say is it might be a vacume leak? WOW!!! Why dont you tell this guy how you fixed yours and help him out a bit. Sounds to me like the pot is trying to call the kettle black. The timing advance is not helping him at all, and thats stright from the mouth of a Nissan tech at Allen Webb Nissan. It may not be his problem but I would have it changed back asap.
Meh lets not clutter my thread, thank you as well for your input, I may return the timing back to retard at 14 until I can figure this out....however I'm not driving it now that I realize something is wrong lol
Old Apr 28, 2009 | 08:31 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Stormzusmc
Yeah I wouldnt have thought so, thanks for the input though...I'm not going to the same place for another dyno so we shall next this weekend...
Before you go, keep these points in mind.
http://forums.maxima.org/4586189-post19.html
http://forums.maxima.org/dyno-discus...no-thread.html
Old Apr 28, 2009 | 08:19 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Revs2Hard
Really? You talk ish and call names and all you have to say is it might be a vacume leak? WOW!!! Why dont you tell this guy how you fixed yours and help him out a bit. Sounds to me like the pot is trying to call the kettle black. The timing advance is not helping him at all, and thats stright from the mouth of a Nissan tech at Allen Webb Nissan. It may not be his problem but I would have it changed back asap.
Here's the problem with your argument. You tell us timing advance doesn't work because the ECU forgets the change in 5-10 miles. You can't be wrong because a Nissan tech told you that (remember you said it). The real fact is the timing advance can be done if they do it right...and there is a thread that has the entire steps on how to do it, AND people chimed in including the OP. Now you say that the timing advance isn't helping him out. Only explanation...it's what the Nissan Tech told you. Oh yeah, a little bit of info that was already noted...the base timing advance doesn't change what the timing maps do at WOT. Dyno runs are done at WOT...it essentially takes the timing advance out of the picture anyway.

So my question is: why isn't the timing advance not helping him at all? Why should it be changed back ASAP? Please elaborate...not tell us "the nissan tech says so". That's like Bobbie Boucher saying "my mama says".

S

Last edited by maximase86; Apr 28, 2009 at 08:26 PM.
Old Apr 28, 2009 | 09:13 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by maximase86
Here's the problem with your argument. You tell us timing advance doesn't work because the ECU forgets the change in 5-10 miles. You can't be wrong because a Nissan tech told you that (remember you said it). The real fact is the timing advance can be done if they do it right...and there is a thread that has the entire steps on how to do it, AND people chimed in including the OP. Now you say that the timing advance isn't helping him out. Only explanation...it's what the Nissan Tech told you. Oh yeah, a little bit of info that was already noted...the base timing advance doesn't change what the timing maps do at WOT. Dyno runs are done at WOT...it essentially takes the timing advance out of the picture anyway.

So my question is: why isn't the timing advance not helping him at all? Why should it be changed back ASAP? Please elaborate...not tell us "the nissan tech says so". That's like Bobbie Boucher saying "my mama says".

S
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 07:10 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Could you break down to me barney style what im looking for here? thanks lol

Originally Posted by maximase86
Here's the problem with your argument. You tell us timing advance doesn't work because the ECU forgets the change in 5-10 miles. You can't be wrong because a Nissan tech told you that (remember you said it). The real fact is the timing advance can be done if they do it right...and there is a thread that has the entire steps on how to do it, AND people chimed in including the OP. Now you say that the timing advance isn't helping him out. Only explanation...it's what the Nissan Tech told you. Oh yeah, a little bit of info that was already noted...the base timing advance doesn't change what the timing maps do at WOT. Dyno runs are done at WOT...it essentially takes the timing advance out of the picture anyway.

So my question is: why isn't the timing advance not helping him at all? Why should it be changed back ASAP? Please elaborate...not tell us "the nissan tech says so". That's like Bobbie Boucher saying "my mama says".

S
lol well anyway.....i will be retarding it once my nos gets installed...now thats obviously after i fix the car lol
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 07:16 PM
  #69  
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What are you going to use to tune the nitrous? You could look at an EU and use that to mess with your timing.

S
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 07:28 PM
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..so do I though.
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by maximase86
What are you going to use to tune the nitrous? You could look at an EU and use that to mess with your timing.

S
lol who knows....gotta fix the problem first...then i will work on that! but yeah i was thinking the eu

Last edited by Stormzusmc; Apr 29, 2009 at 07:30 PM.
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 08:18 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Revs2Hard
Really? You talk ish and call names and all you have to say is it might be a vacume leak? WOW!!! Why dont you tell this guy how you fixed yours and help him out a bit. Sounds to me like the pot is trying to call the kettle black. The timing advance is not helping him at all, and thats stright from the mouth of a Nissan tech at Allen Webb Nissan. It may not be his problem but I would have it changed back asap.
You are an idiot and you should not be modifying cars or giving people useless advice. Just because you called a Nissan tech doesn't mean you are smarter than everyone else. Besides, don't you have better things to do than post useless things on here? For instance, your super lame video where you purge your entire nitrous bottle in a parking lot. Its amazing that you actually thought people would find that video to be interesting/entertaining. I doubt anyone who was there thought it was cool either. On top of all that, you disowned the Maxima crowd to Northwest Nissans so I don't know why you would want to be a part of maxima.org. All you do on here is post stupid **** that doesn't even make sense. You should do us all a favor and stop posting on here. Then there will be more room on the server for meaningful posts. Oh, and you should change your name to "Rubs2Hard" because it is a much more fitting name for you.
Sincerely,
Mastercater7

Last edited by mastercater7; Apr 29, 2009 at 08:22 PM.
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 08:22 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by mastercater7
You are an idiot and you should not be modifying cars or giving people useless advice. Just because you called a Nissan tech doesn't mean you are smarter than everyone else. Besides, don't you have better things to do than post useless things on here? For instance, your super lame video where you purge your entire nitrous bottle in a parking lot. Its amazing that you actually thought people would find that video to be interesting/entertaining. I doubt anyone who was there thought it was cool either. On top of all that, you disowned the Maxima crowd to Northwest Nissans so I don't know why you would want to be a part of maxima.org. All you do on here is post stupid **** that doesn't even make sense. You should do us all a favor and stop posting on here. Then there will be more room on the server for meaningful posts. Oh, congratulations on getting owned by maximase86.
Sincerely,
Mastercater7
I was a Nissan tech and I say that the VQ is really just a renamed Honda J series.

Because of the former, the latter must be true...right?

Old Apr 29, 2009 | 09:29 PM
  #74  
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ALLL RIGHTY THEN....

so any more useful info, besides this mumbo jumbo of noob bashing?

Last edited by Stormzusmc; Apr 29, 2009 at 10:24 PM.
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
I was a Nissan tech and I say that the VQ is really just a renamed Honda J series.

Because of the former, the latter must be true...right?

Check and mate.

Originally Posted by Stormzusmc
ALLL RIGHTY THEN....

so any more useful info, besides this mumbo jumbo of noob bashing?
Well, you tell us! You have plenty to work with.
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 08:35 AM
  #76  
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In the same boat here, at WOT it shoots all the way up to the 16s. Searched for leaks, replaced the fuel pump nothing changed. Added fuel on the dyno didnt help and it actually made LESS power.

Put in a Stethoscope, an the top of the pistons looked fine, so i ended up just leaving it alone. Car makes great power, slightly above what it should considering my mods.I know another, with a 6th gen with the same issue. No codes what so ever.

Last edited by RacerX1320; Apr 30, 2009 at 08:37 AM.
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 09:14 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by RacerX1320
In the same boat here, at WOT it shoots all the way up to the 16s. Searched for leaks, replaced the fuel pump nothing changed. Added fuel on the dyno didnt help and it actually made LESS power.

Put in a Stethoscope, an the top of the pistons looked fine, so i ended up just leaving it alone. Car makes great power, slightly above what it should considering my mods.I know another, with a 6th gen with the same issue. No codes what so ever.
Do you have your dyno sheet? For the AFR to shoot up to the 16's is one thing, but does it stay consistently high, or does it go down? Did your AFR go down at all when you added fuel? It could simply be that the dyno wideband placement like nmexmax pointed out.

S
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 09:22 AM
  #78  
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At idle it hangs out about 14s then wot shoots to 16s. I have the dyno sheet, but i dont really remember if it went down when we added fuel i mostly remember it making less power.

Like i said before, it doesnt seem to have a leak or codes and doesnt run hot at all. Runs pretty cool actually, after several dyno runs on a 80 degree day oil temp was low 200s.

We also installed another bung more downstream on the Y pipe. To try and get a different reading. Next step wouldve been to pull the injectors, but with 60k on the clock i decided not to go there.

Last edited by RacerX1320; Apr 30, 2009 at 09:31 AM.
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 09:40 AM
  #79  
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So not the same boat, because I'm making **** for numbers....
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 10:01 AM
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Yeah i guess your right haha, point i was trying to make tho is that it doesnt seem that rare for this to happen on VQ's for some reason.



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