Ok, so i start my car and it wont rev beyond 1000-1500 rpms? I just got the car from my cuz and it had been riding fine and i can attest to this. the car recently had a chassis bath but i dont know if that might have affected it or not? Someone told me it might be the crank sensor (dont know or see how they're related?), i was thinking maybe its the MAF because my old 4th gen was doing that and it came to be that the wires on the MAF had been pinched together and it wasnt properly functioning. but after it was relased, it started working again. So i'm really not sure? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Codes????

And i would also suspect your maf as well but i would run codes just to confirm it

 

Ok. I'll have the mechanic check the codes tomorrow morning. the CEL is on but i dont know if its for that or something else? I just wanna get some initial thoughts on what it might be or if something similiar has happened to someone they would be able to chime in.

 

probly wont get a MIL with the MAF, but it does sound like the problem. i had a MAF crap out on me and thats pretty much what happened.

 

tray to cleaning your maf before you bay one, its like $15 to clean it

 

TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) might be going bad. This happened to my car. I couldn't drive faster than about 25 with my foot to the floor. My engine light was on, the transmission light was on, and I think even the oil light came on when the sensor crapped out on me. I had autozone clear the codes and it worked fine. The car goes into limp mode if the sensor gives out.

See Here

 

Thanks for the info so far fellas. come tomorrow i'll run "our" finding by my mechanic to give him something to look at initially. After he does that, i'll check back in with you guys and go from there. i'm not too mechanically inclined unfortunately. thats why u gotta love the org, guys are so knowledgable and helpful =)

 

good idea, didnt think of that. i know our TPS has a closed throttle and a WOT signal, the closed throttle wire may be shorting out? more likeley the sensor itself though if it is the problem

 

your in limp mode...you need a new maf

 

a bad maf wouldnt put the computer into any sort of mode (spoken from first hand experience). the motor just chokes and doesnt want to idle. it also wont rev at all, because the computer simply isnt reading airflow and therefore not injecting fuel. if something were malfunctioning that could potentially do serious damage to the motor, then the computer would set into a mode, such as this "limp" mode, which i dont think ive ever heard of (went to school for this stuff)

 

I say its Def your MAF. Put a 3.0 Maf on a 3.5 and it did the same but at 3k. but got new maf. Problem fixed. Clean yours before you buy a new one. see if it helps

 

ok u went to skool...goodjob...if the comp. isnt reading the correct airflow and the isnt giving the correct fuel...it goes into a limp mode to keep the engine safe so other things wont go horribly wrong...specvs go into limp mode also when the maf go bad

 

Your engine management and maybe even your transmission is controlled by the ECU. As you know, all computers crash, all software has bugs, and mechanical equipment fails. As such, many ECU units are fitted with a 'limp home mode'. When it detects that something semi-serious is wrong, it enters the limp mode, which means that the engine won't rev beyond a pre-programmed speed, you can't accelerate very fast, or you may indeed be speed-restricted to 40 mph or similar. The transmission may even stay in one or two gears. Bad? Well, no, not really: The alternative would be to either let you drive at regular speeds, with the danger of letting you trash your car (expensive repair, means happy repair people, but angry driver), or stopping you from going anywhere (expensive recovery and stranded on the side of the road means happy recovery company, but angry driver).

i went to skool to for this stuff.... =)

 

Sounds like a MAF. You should be throwing a P1102 code. Had the same problem and just replaced mine from a junk yard for $100 buck vs $500 new. Check Car-Parts.com there are a couple of junk yards that'll give a 6 mo warranty on a MAF. You've got to give them the correct production date of your car from the inside of your door panel otherwise you may get the wrong one.

Good Luck,

B

 

i had a similar problm, but when i changed the shift solenoid the problm was fixed

 

I know this post is old but it's worth sharing the info. My car won't pass 1500 either after having the battery disconnected for some hours. I ended up getting p1122 code. I ended up doing a idle relearn and back to normal.