Norm Peterson

It's been on for quite a while now, but that's not the problem.

My problem is trying to make it co-operate and throw a code back at me.

The FSM and another document from an independent repair entity both tell you to short pin 8 on the diag port to ground. Pin 8 is defined as being diagonally opposite to pin 9, which is the numbered pin location in all of the pictures. Shorting that pin blows the fuse that also controls the power windows, indicating that I'm creating a dead short, so something's not right somewhere.

I haven't found any description for the pinout on the OBD II diag connector, so I'm not at all comfortable trying the shorting of pin 9 instead. Even less comfortable trying any other pin.

FWIW, I don't particularly care if I get the ABS back or not, as I'm entirely comfortable with a purely hydraulic/mechanical braking system and the car has been just fine that way. I just want to get rid of its warning lamp being lit all the time, or at least know why it is lit via the trouble codes.

Thanks in advance.


Norm

redrelyt12

iTrader: (1)

take out the light?

Norm Peterson

I'm not ready to go foraging around behind the instrument panel trying to figure out how to open it up without breaking something. Disconnecting the ABS lamp's hot wire might be one possibility, assuming that I could find it. But I'd sort of like to know what made it light up in the first place. A bad wheel sensor or one whose tone wheel has picked up a bunch of magnetic debris is one thing, and I'd eventually fix those. AB$ controller failure quite another.

FWIW, the copy of the FSM that I'm looking at has TCS diagnostics running off the grounding of pin 9. I have a 5-speed manual transmission and therefore no TCS. The car is a 20AE, if that makes any difference.


Norm

Norm Peterson

No thoughts about what pin 9 might do (if anything)?


Norm

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Look at the FSM, EC-642. Pin 8 is B+, which is why you shouldnt've been grounding it. If you then look at BR-44, pin 9 at the DLC goes directly to the ABS computer for diagnosis.

The FSM states in text that you should ground 8, but all of the diagrams (both wiring and pictures) say pin 9.

Pin 9 goes to the ABS/TCS control unit if you have TCS, otherwise obviously it'll only get you diagnosis of ABS.

Norm Peterson

That was my problem the whole time. Expecting the official FSM to have been proofread at least well enough to have caught such a glaring error and internal inconsistency. Silly me.


Thanks, that's what I was hoping to hear, and I finally just went ahead and tried it. Figured I'd either get the same codes as the TCS/ABS or nothing at all. Code 35 (LR open circuit), verified by a sensor resistance reading of about 0.7 MEG ohms, vs about 0.8 - 1.something Kohm spec. Checked at the connector near the LR wheel, so it's either the sensor itself or its own wire that's at fault.


Norm

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Indeed, even the almighty FSM still has it's issues at times. Hell, the ECU pinout for the '99 in the FSM is completely incorrect, among numerous other spelling and factual errors.

Norm Peterson

Can't help but think that the technicians indirectly catch a little flak for the extra time occasionally spent finding out what the correct information is. Especially in independent shops. Bummer.


Latest question in this little saga - what would be a typical price for one rear ABS sensor?


Norm

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Post a WTB in the classifieds, that'll likely be cheapest. Could be anywhere from ~$15 in the classifieds, to $150 at the dealer.

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

That was going to be my next question.

Nice work you two!

gr

malifat

im having some major problems with my 2000 SE 5speed my self .when i bought it the clutch was in really bad shape so i decided to replace it. to remove the gear box i had to remove the abs pump/motor and the brake lines connecting to it in order to get the starter out . now my abs light is on and my speedo is no longer working.

malifat

im having problems guys. and im on the verge of giving up as winter is starting to set in. when i bought my 2000 SE maxima 5spd the clutch was on its way out and when it finally died on me i decided to change the clutch myself. the change out went pretty smooth, wheni started it up for the first time with the new clutch my abs light was on and my speedo and odometer are no longer working .



I had to move the above ABS actuator/motor in order to get the starter out to drop the gearbox. because i disconnected the ABS harness could that be a cause for my speedo and abs light coming on ? and if so how would i rest or solve this issue.





From reading other threads i got the idea that it might be my speedo gear . the car is throwing a p0500 code VSS . the pic above is the connector that attached to the sensor at the bottom on the gearbox below



so yea no gear there. look like there are some internal parts that transfer signals to this wire. im hoping there is nothing wrong with the internal parts because i do not want to open the gear box plus i never opened it before i am thinking that i may have damaged the external wire when the bell housing was on the floor or in the back of my truck.

what do u think guys ? i could really use your help its getting cold and i need to fix this problem asap
thanks alot
malifat