Whitebread

iTrader: (2)

My car has been exhibiting some of the tell tail signs of a bad wheel bearing including a grinding or rubbing noise under braking and acceleration, pulling under braking, and wondering (although the wheel doesn't seem to have any play). I'm going to replace both bearings tomorrow but I don't have the ball joint removal tool. What do you guys use to separate the knuckle from the transverse link?

Thanks

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Isn't it just a nut on the ball joint that you remove to separate the knuckle from the transverse link?

Whitebread

iTrader: (2)

Yes, but the ball joint is tapered and will need to be forcible removed once the nut is taken off.

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

i use a hammer and a sludge hammer, remove the locking pin (cotter pin), remove the nut, place the heavier hammer on the side of the arm of the knuckle in the back, with the lighter hammer strike on the front side of the arm until you see the ball joint "pop out". Usually takes a few strikes to get it off, as long as you have the heavier hammer behind at all time to absorb the force of the lighter hammer, you will be all set.

Whitebread

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. I happened to find that harbor freight has an 18 dollar tool and a HF store is 10 minutes is from my house. I'm going to try that first.

pinellas50

I used an old school pickle fork. But this will rip the rubber boot on the ball joint most times. I first tried striking the knuckle at the site where the ball joint goes through. This will sometimes work but didn't on mine. So I resorted to the pickle fork.

Whitebread

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I'm trying to avoid the pickle fork method for the same reasons. I'd rather not have to replace the ball joints, I already killed a tie rod end last week.

NisTech

just take out tie rod nut, use biggest hammer u can find preferably witgh chort handle like a club hammer and hammer it unmercifully untill it pops out. Aim and don't hit backing plate

blbrizzi1

Knuckle removal. Grab a large wrench, put it on a overly tightened nut, put all your weight into it, and as it releases realize this is gonna hurt. Carry spare rags for the blood, and have on hand some grease remover. Scrub the wound like hell, preferably while you're still in shock, then pour alcohol on it, if you weren't in shock, you will be now, then wrap in clean gauze. Sorry, but this is the only knuckle removal experience I have.

Brent

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Agreed, just beat on it. I was able to pop the original balljoint from the knuckle on a 4th gen with 192k miles just by beating on it. Loosening the rear mounting bolts (5 in total) on the control arm also helps. Naturally, make sure your sway bar link is disconnected.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

I suggest that you dont hammered the tie rod, instead use this tool:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-24...ools-2287.aspx

It will work like a charm.

AA

Nelsito65

^^ Use of proper tools is always beneficial for you and your car.
Some autoparts stores, such as Autozone, even loan you specialties tools for a deposit fee that is reimbursed when you bring them back.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

I second that. Well said.

A+

AA

i30maxman

jack car up take nut off tie rod end then place jack stand under tie rod end lower car slowly n bingo!