well the car cranks and starts, but as soon as the car starts it shuts off within half a sec of starting the car. i also have a check engine light on, is this common and has anyone experienced this and know how i can fix this problem? i

 

You have been here long enough to know that you should read the code before considering anything. It could be almost anything. Does the car have gas? lol

 

what year?

 

yes i know, but the car doesnt move so i cant take it to autozone... its a 03.

 

it could be a crank or cam position sensor but other than that i cant think of a code that would keep it from starting.

What does your security light do when you try and start it?
If it stays solid you have a problem with your chip in your key or the NVIS system. make sure you are using your "chipped" key and not a spare copy. I made that mistake when i first got my car

It could also be a fuel issue, either the pump or the fuse (i doubt its a filter). Do you hear it prime when you turn the car to on but not start it?

 

Another possibility is Coolant Temperature Sensor: I saw such behaviour on my 93. I doubt this is Cam or Crank shaft sensors as it wouldn't start at all if one of them was dead. Did you do any work on the car lately? Try to locate CTS and check its connector. Go and buy/borrow OBD scanner - it is good investment and will certainly give you a clue to solve the problem.

 

sounds almost like a busted fuel pump? Like your sig

 

this guy is a smart man. id listen any and all his suggestions!

(No, i dont know him but hes Right)

 

I would side with a busted fuel pump also.He is a smart man.

 

I'd say the first step is to check out that code and go from there. There's a self test procedure that the ECU will flash the CEL a certain number of times to indicate a trouble code, no need for autozone. Check the FSM if you have one available, otherwise I can try to find the page for you.

 

Nevermind, I found it anyway haha.

HOW TO SWITCH DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODE

NFEC1189S03

NOTE:
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
It is impossible to switch the diagnostic mode when an accelerator pedal position sensor circuit
has a malfunction.
Always ECM returns to Diagnostic Test Mode I after ignition switch is turned “OFF”.

How to Set Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic Results)

NFEC1189S0301

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
1) Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
2) Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the MIL starts
blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

ECM has entered to Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic results).

DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODE II — SELF-DIAGNOSTIC RESULTS

NFEC1189S06

In this mode, the DTC and 1st trip DTC are indicated by the number of blinks of the MIL as shown below.
The DTC and 1st trip DTC are displayed at the same time. If the MIL does not illuminate in diagnostic test
mode I (Malfunction warning), all displayed items are 1st trip DTCs. If only one code is displayed when the
MIL illuminates in diagnostic test mode II (SELF-DIAGNOSTIC RESULTS), it is a DTC; if two or more codes
are displayed, they may be either DTCs or 1st trip DTCs. DTC No. is same as that of 1st trip DTC. These

unidentified codes can be identified by using the CONSULT-II or GST.

Hope that helps!

 

All the likely candidates such as NVIS/NATS and cam/crank sensors, iacv should throw a code, so start there. Fuel pump is NOT a likely possibility. 3 years of working on maximas every day, I've yet to see a bad fuel pump on one, I have one I use for pumping out waste oil and the thing will suck up some nasty stuff and sound like death and it just keeps on pumping.

 

Perhaps you should wait, for details, prior to posting such a response...

 

KRRZ350 is right, anything like that would most definitely set a code in the PCM. I'm sure you can pick up a code reader for something cheap and that should help you in your diagnosis. And even after this issue, you'll have it again in case something else goes wrong

 

I'm having the same problem on my 95 max. My engine will run as long as I keep the pedal down. As soon as I let go the thing stalls. I haven't been able to search up a solution but I'm looking at the Idle Air Control Valve.