I've owned a 5-spd 1997 SE and road her hard until 110k miles. The only thing that I ever had to do other than routine maintenance was replace the starter.

Right now I have a 13 month old and want to car to hold me over until I can get my toy (2003 NSX). Don't laugh, I'm off to a great start with $15 bucks saved up in my penny jar.

Anyway, I am looking at a 2002 6-speed maxima SE with 105,000 miles that is really clean (cloth int for $8,000, good deal???). Nothing more than routine maintenance has been done to this too. And, I don't really have records since I'm buying from a dealer. Should I be concerned with any major issues from 100k to 150k miles (besides the obvious; clutch, brakes, tires).

I loved my 1997 (sold her in 2003) and am really looking forward to getting back into a maxima.

Here is old vs. new...

 

no major issues. O2 sensor maybe, but thats an easy fix. $8000 is way too much. I got my 2002 infiniti i35 for $6100.

Some vq35s have oil consumption issues. but many do not, mine included.

 

Retail is about 9,100 for an 02 6spd give a take a few...

 

If I could get the guy down to $7k out the door, would that be a good deal?

Thanks...

 

This has 100k miles on it right?

 

105,000 miles... Thoughts??

 

I had a 97 Se 5 speed that I drove hard as you know what, even dogged it on the Germany autobahn, (got her to 147mph). With over 100k miles on it I would see if they would go lower in price to say around $7300 to 7500 no more. Also, for the oil consumption issue I just check mine regularly and know that its going to be low some after 1500 miles of my type of driving.

 

All of your input helps! I need to decide by Monday.

 

The car looks good, if he lets it go for 7.5k, take it, since it'll last for a long time. Let us know what happens.

 

Mine had 113,897 when I bought it, now I have 158,300 (or so) miles. I've replaced the radiator, starter and thermostat along with 2 O2 sensors. I won't count the wheel bearing issue since that appears to be the fault of whoever worked on that area of the car last. I guess that isn't bad for the mileage, certainly been less costly than just the last 4 months I owned my Mazda 626.

 

You cant go wrong with a 02-03 go for it bro, some of them have a oil consumption problems but if you have that problem just change your pcv valve and that should solve that problem.

 

Uh - TOTALLY NOT TRUE. An oil-burner is NOT symptomatic of a bad PCV...

Overall though - if the car is in good working order (use your common sense) you should be okay.
I have alot of little complaints about my car, but overall in 75k miles -- it's been a great car.

good luck!

gr

 

Just curious, what kind of little complaints??

 

Precats may go, a perfect excuse for headers!

 

You'll have to throw away the blose stereo. Drop it b/c the wheel gap is atrocious. Remove the cats b/c they will clog/fall apart. Make sure the sunroof switch works responsively otherwise it's toast. Brake at high speed hard to see if the rotors are warped in front, they're junk. Speed shift and see if you get any grinding or the infamous 3rd gear crunch, b/c if so, then the synchros are going out (not that it will get worse, just saying). Stock tires are worthless.

I'll update if I think of anything else.

IMO, it's not worth it for a stock car. You should pay the 8k (or even less) and get someone's car (loaded) off here that's at least lightly modded. Plus, I'd say it would be taken care of a lot better. Who knows where those stealership cars have been. At least on here these guys are **** and use synthetic oil, etc. I'd rather have a car that's driven hard, but properly maintained vs one that's had penzoil changed every 5k miles.

 

scale of 1-10
2002- 7
1997- 8.5
2000- 10

 

As far as reliability, I agree

 

If you were in the Northeast, I'd say no way to that price and mileage... but "Novedades Olivia" is Arizona, right? The absence of road-salt rust is a big plus, as long as the car has been maintained responsibly.

It looks clean (from the outside.) You'll certainly enjoy the power and the 6MT. And it will work just fine as a family sedan.I think that price is reasonable, but trust your instincts when it comes to used car dealerships.

And ignore the silliness about dropping the car. You're a grown-up.

 

I wish that was the problem with these cars. The struts are junk and nissan knows it. Put some weight in back for a bit, it'll never rebound. The gap in front is already like 4". When the rear gets crunched, then it really looks bad b/c the car is tilted back. And then it handles like crap on top of it. This is my 2nd 5.5 gen and they're identical in suspension.

 

That may be true regarding Nissan struts on the GXE and GLE, but the OEM struts on the 5.5 SE are manufactured by Tokico. However, you're correct about the gap... the vertical gap does not match the horizontal gap. Oh well.

PerfectMax, there is no direct answer to your question about 4th gen vs 5.5, except that they're both Nissans, and Nissan makes a pretty high quality product.

 

Both are SEs and just b/c so and so makes them doesn't make it good. Clarion makes the CD changer and it's the biggest piece of crap I've ever encountered.

 

dont even get me started





Anyways back to topic.

both models are going to have there pro's and cons.

You 5th gen guys think you have bad wheel gap look at a 4th gen then talk to me. I can stick almost both my hands in there.

But 4th gen have been known to go to 250-300k. As long as the core support holds up

But with the 5.5(or even a 5th gen) Your going to pretty much get the same motor. But IMHO(graph show it as well) the 5th gens are better looking cars

 

They can go down less than 7k for that car i just bought mine 2weeks ago it an 02 gle fully loaded for 8700

 

if i plan to change the suspension anyways then i dont think the wheel gap plays a factor at all... and thats not really a reliability issue.... 4th gens are way cooler than a 6th gen imo
1-5th
2-4th
3-7th
4-6rd
5-3rd
6-2nd and 1st

 

105k miles?

like i said i got my infiniti i35 (upgrade over maxima) with 90k miles for $6100. Everyone seems to think $7000 or $8000 is a good deal for some odd reason, when you can get better for cheaper.

Retail price means nothing. Who pays the MSRP on a new car?? exactly...

This car is priced way too high for the miles. Maybe if it had leather seats, a LSD, it'd be worth $6800 at tops.

 

However, Clarion makes the BEST marine headunit/CD Changer on the market (just bought one ).

 

I think I'm going to offer him $6700 out the door for the car if it is clean. If he doesn't take it, do you guys really think $7k out the door is bad (thats what I've got him down to)? That includes 3% NC taxes, registration/transfer fee.

I am grown up but I plan on putting a comfortable suspension on it (drop 1"), some clears, short throw, and 6.5 gen 18" rims with 245/40/18 tires (no exhaust but maybe an intake). Then I'm done and will ride her out till the wheels fall off, which hopefully will be 200k.

 

Yeah, OK, that makes no sense. But if it works for you, that's awesome.

Not much difference between 6.7k and 7k, but under 7 sure feels more appropriate. Only 3% sales tax? Lucky. You wouldn't like NY.

OK then. I didn't see that coming. Drop is a personal preference, then, just not one I'd pursue.

I think perhaps I generalized that grown-up comment too much. I'll dial that one back a notch.

 

3% is great and all until you get hit with the yearly property tax. In PA I used to pay 6% at the time of purchase and be done with taxes. NC sucks!

Anyway... You guys aren't really making me feel good about this car for $7k out the door. Should I walk?

 

I wonder how much profit did the dealership make from this deal.

Have you try searching maxima on Craigslist? There are a lot of Maxima are for sale on there.

Good luck

 

You can also troll around AutoTrader.com.

Here's a link for NC, Maxima, 5.5 gen, manual tranny

From those listings, seven grand seems about right.

 

I bought my car with 96K and love it. But would I buy it again? No.