Stock 2002 GXE and $3k
08-25-2009, 11:19 AM
#3
Some things that come to mind immediately are the cold air intake, Redline MT90 in the transmission. Hawk brake pads all around, wheel spacers to make the tires sit flush with the body.
Then I would add window and sunroof louvers, (if the car came with a sunroof). I'm not too much into lowering, but that may be something someone else could address.
Then I would add window and sunroof louvers, (if the car came with a sunroof). I'm not too much into lowering, but that may be something someone else could address.
08-25-2009, 11:37 AM
#5
Headers (v2OBX $380)
3" Cat-back (Cattman $739)
UTEC for tuning ($800)
Wideband O2 for tuning ($180-300)
Big bore MAF housing ($90-$100)
Looks like you still have money after all that too..
This will give you the best whp gains N/A. Especially headers/exhaust and UTEC.
3" Cat-back (Cattman $739)
UTEC for tuning ($800)
Wideband O2 for tuning ($180-300)
Big bore MAF housing ($90-$100)
Looks like you still have money after all that too..
This will give you the best whp gains N/A. Especially headers/exhaust and UTEC.
08-25-2009, 11:50 AM
#6
Some things that come to mind immediately are the cold air intake, Redline MT90 in the transmission. Hawk brake pads all around, wheel spacers to make the tires sit flush with the body.
Then I would add window and sunroof louvers, (if the car came with a sunroof). I'm not too much into lowering, but that may be something someone else could address.
Then I would add window and sunroof louvers, (if the car came with a sunroof). I'm not too much into lowering, but that may be something someone else could address.
"window and sunroof louvers" -- tacky.
08-25-2009, 12:42 PM
#7
go ahead and knock out all 6 plugs and coils (ebay) while you got the cash
flush the tranny, add redline
(thats $500 on the HIGH end right there)
G35 18's ($400) or 19's ($600) give or take
tires for the G's ($500-800) depending on brand and size
Stillen or AE front lip ($250 painted)
everything else you'll find for sale here SOOONER THEN LATER, so be patient.
looks to me you have about $1200-$1300 to blow on other crap
exhaust
suspension
intake
audio
HID
flush the tranny, add redline
(thats $500 on the HIGH end right there)
G35 18's ($400) or 19's ($600) give or take
tires for the G's ($500-800) depending on brand and size
Stillen or AE front lip ($250 painted)
everything else you'll find for sale here SOOONER THEN LATER, so be patient.
looks to me you have about $1200-$1300 to blow on other crap
exhaust
suspension
intake
audio
HID
08-25-2009, 01:16 PM
#8
Ebay intake- $50
OBX headers - $380
Custom 3" exhaust and 22" resonator w/ obx tip- $450-500
NWP block plate- $40
NWP spacers- $235
TS ECU- $350
safc- $150-200
Coilovers- $700+
Stillen front lip- $200
Ionic AE rear valence- $250
RSB- 200$
total was about $3005 i think
OBX headers - $380
Custom 3" exhaust and 22" resonator w/ obx tip- $450-500
NWP block plate- $40
NWP spacers- $235
TS ECU- $350
safc- $150-200
Coilovers- $700+
Stillen front lip- $200
Ionic AE rear valence- $250
RSB- 200$
total was about $3005 i think
08-25-2009, 01:30 PM
#9
Ebay intake- $50
OBX headers - $380
Custom 3" exhaust and 22" resonator w/ obx tip- $450-500
NWP block plate- $40
NWP spacers- $235
TS ECU- $350
safc- $150-200
Coilovers- $700+
Stillen front lip- $200
Ionic AE rear valence- $250
RSB- 200$
total was about $3005 i think
OBX headers - $380
Custom 3" exhaust and 22" resonator w/ obx tip- $450-500
NWP block plate- $40
NWP spacers- $235
TS ECU- $350
safc- $150-200
Coilovers- $700+
Stillen front lip- $200
Ionic AE rear valence- $250
RSB- 200$
total was about $3005 i think
08-25-2009, 01:31 PM
#10
Headers (v2OBX $380)
3" Cat-back (Cattman $739)
UTEC for tuning ($800)
Wideband O2 for tuning ($180-300)
Big bore MAF housing ($90-$100)
Looks like you still have money after all that too..
This will give you the best whp gains N/A. Especially headers/exhaust and UTEC.
3" Cat-back (Cattman $739)
UTEC for tuning ($800)
Wideband O2 for tuning ($180-300)
Big bore MAF housing ($90-$100)
Looks like you still have money after all that too..
This will give you the best whp gains N/A. Especially headers/exhaust and UTEC.
08-25-2009, 01:53 PM
#11
All this performance advice; (with exception to Stillen Plastic.)
But he still didn't say where he wants to go with his ride. For all you guys know, he might be jonesing for lambo-doors and orange leather.
But he still didn't say where he wants to go with his ride. For all you guys know, he might be jonesing for lambo-doors and orange leather.
08-25-2009, 02:56 PM
#13
I'd go through the suspension first. Illunimas *insert spring here*, rear sway bar and Moog endlinks and ES sway bushings. Thats 1k gone and you can really tell where the money went. Then a block off plate and intake, throw in some decent 18"s and tires and maybe a Stillen lip if there's money left.
08-25-2009, 03:23 PM
#14
Headers (v2OBX $380)
3" Cat-back (Cattman $739)
UTEC for tuning ($800)
Wideband O2 for tuning ($180-300)
Big bore MAF housing ($90-$100)
Looks like you still have money after all that too..
This will give you the best whp gains N/A. Especially headers/exhaust and UTEC.
3" Cat-back (Cattman $739)
UTEC for tuning ($800)
Wideband O2 for tuning ($180-300)
Big bore MAF housing ($90-$100)
Looks like you still have money after all that too..
This will give you the best whp gains N/A. Especially headers/exhaust and UTEC.
08-25-2009, 03:31 PM
#15
- Install your mods one at a time, rather than all at once. Make your next decisions after getting through your current ones.
- Start with performance upgrades geared towards safety and maintenance: tires, brakes, and suspension.
- Pair up your intake and exhaust replacements. Give serious consideration when deciding on headers because you may have problems getting inspected.
Last edited by Rochester; 08-25-2009 at 03:58 PM.
08-25-2009, 04:03 PM
#17
08-25-2009, 04:32 PM
#18
Ebay intake- $50
OBX headers - $380
Custom 3" exhaust and 22" resonator w/ obx tip- $450-500
NWP block plate- $40
NWP spacers- $235
TS ECU- $350
safc- $150-200
Coilovers- $700+
Stillen front lip- $200
Ionic AE rear valence- $250
RSB- 200$
total was about $3005 i think
OBX headers - $380
Custom 3" exhaust and 22" resonator w/ obx tip- $450-500
NWP block plate- $40
NWP spacers- $235
TS ECU- $350
safc- $150-200
Coilovers- $700+
Stillen front lip- $200
Ionic AE rear valence- $250
RSB- 200$
total was about $3005 i think
I agree, Ill pitch in the extra 5 bucks if you dont have it. lol
08-25-2009, 04:39 PM
#20
08-25-2009, 04:40 PM
#21
go ahead and knock out all 6 plugs and coils (ebay) while you got the cash
flush the tranny, add redline
(thats $500 on the HIGH end right there)
G35 18's ($400) or 19's ($600) give or take
tires for the G's ($500-800) depending on brand and size
Stillen or AE front lip ($250 painted)
everything else you'll find for sale here SOOONER THEN LATER, so be patient.
looks to me you have about $1200-$1300 to blow on other crap
exhaust
suspension
intake
audio
HID
flush the tranny, add redline
(thats $500 on the HIGH end right there)
G35 18's ($400) or 19's ($600) give or take
tires for the G's ($500-800) depending on brand and size
Stillen or AE front lip ($250 painted)
everything else you'll find for sale here SOOONER THEN LATER, so be patient.
looks to me you have about $1200-$1300 to blow on other crap
exhaust
suspension
intake
audio
HID
and some tint for that sucker!
08-25-2009, 04:43 PM
#22
In the face of adversity... you're a brave man, hustler.
08-25-2009, 04:47 PM
#24
I actually bought the ones you linked me. And nah i didnt get them in yet, I just put it in my SIG. but mine is going to be here Thursday! and my EGR bung taper will be in on Friday! so hopefully friday night it should be one. if not saturday night.
08-25-2009, 04:53 PM
#26
08-25-2009, 06:39 PM
#28
08-25-2009, 06:52 PM
#29
Some things that come to mind immediately are the cold air intake, Redline MT90 in the transmission. Hawk brake pads all around, wheel spacers to make the tires sit flush with the body.
Then I would add window and sunroof louvers, (if the car came with a sunroof). I'm not too much into lowering, but that may be something someone else could address.
Then I would add window and sunroof louvers, (if the car came with a sunroof). I'm not too much into lowering, but that may be something someone else could address.
MT90 = no in an autotragic
Hawk HPS = yes
Spacers = NO...get wheels with a better offset and less weight
Louvers = NO
Injen = GOD, PLEASE NO!
spoiler = only if it's a stock one
tires = only if you need new tires (can't still av the originals at 85k!!)
sound system upgrade = yes...new HU at least.
syn tranny fluid = depends
new battery = only if the one you have is bad
go ahead and knock out all 6 plugs and coils (ebay) while you got the cash
flush the tranny, add redline
(thats $500 on the HIGH end right there)
G35 18's ($400) or 19's ($600) give or take
tires for the G's ($500-800) depending on brand and size
Stillen or AE front lip ($250 painted)
everything else you'll find for sale here SOOONER THEN LATER, so be patient.
looks to me you have about $1200-$1300 to blow on other crap
exhaust
suspension
intake
audio
HID
flush the tranny, add redline
(thats $500 on the HIGH end right there)
G35 18's ($400) or 19's ($600) give or take
tires for the G's ($500-800) depending on brand and size
Stillen or AE front lip ($250 painted)
everything else you'll find for sale here SOOONER THEN LATER, so be patient.
looks to me you have about $1200-$1300 to blow on other crap
exhaust
suspension
intake
audio
HID
coils = no unless there is a problem/misfire
flush tranny/redline = depends
G 18's = me likey.
Stillen front lip = waste of money
exhaust = Bpipe only, unless you go full headers
suspension = yes, but depends
intake = no, unles you can find PR or Cattman
audio = sure
HID = you already have them, so no...and don't go buy some gay 8000k ricers..
Ebay intake- $50
OBX headers - $380
Custom 3" exhaust and 22" resonator w/ obx tip- $450-500
NWP block plate- $40
NWP spacers- $235
TS ECU- $350
safc- $150-200
Coilovers- $700+
Stillen front lip- $200
Ionic AE rear valence- $250
RSB- 200$
total was about $3005 i think
OBX headers - $380
Custom 3" exhaust and 22" resonator w/ obx tip- $450-500
NWP block plate- $40
NWP spacers- $235
TS ECU- $350
safc- $150-200
Coilovers- $700+
Stillen front lip- $200
Ionic AE rear valence- $250
RSB- 200$
total was about $3005 i think
headers = yes
custom exhaust = whatever
NWP stuff = yes, though priced a bit high IMO
ECU = not et
SAFT = not yet
coilovers = go spring/strut. QUALITY coilovers cost $1500+, not $700+
cosmetics = whatever
RSB = yes
I'd go through the suspension first. Illunimas *insert spring here*, rear sway bar and Moog endlinks and ES sway bushings. Thats 1k gone and you can really tell where the money went. Then a block off plate and intake, throw in some decent 18"s and tires and maybe a Stillen lip if there's money left.
OK. Assuming he wants street performance upgrades instead of track or bling:
- Install your mods one at a time, rather than all at once. Make your next decisions after getting through your current ones.
- Start with performance upgrades geared towards safety and maintenance: tires, brakes, and suspension.
- Pair up your intake and exhaust replacements. Give serious consideration when deciding on headers because you may have problems getting inspected.
now, my list:
#1 Suspension. The weakest part of the 2002 Maxima, by far.
- Illuminas
- Eibachs or H&R springs
- Rear sway bar (any brand is fine)
- Blehm stage 1 lower tie bar
- FSB bushings and other ES bushings wherever.
(total: under $1500)
#2 Brakes. The second weakest part of the 2002 Maxima
- SS lines
- new pads (I sugget Hawk HPS for street)
- new rotors if your old ones have poor runout or rutting
- new fluid/full flush (ATE Blue)
(total: about $250, depending on rotors)
#3 Audio upgrade (to bose or base system)
- New head unit. Your stock speakers are "ok" with a good HU unless you want serious bass or are a true audiophile. People used to say my system sounded great. They didn't know the ONLY thing I did to it was switch to a mid-level Alpine deck. All speakers were stock.
(under $500)
#4 Wheels/tires
- Something 17" or 18" (no larger!) and 8" wide for regular driving. Best offset 30-35mm. Preferably something not chrome, and something that weighs under 20lbs per wheel.
- Tires: You're in NoVa, so you want all-seasons. I suggest a 235-width Toyo Proxes 4. Aspect ratio dependent on wheel diameter.
(this will finish out your $3k budget, so stop here)
#5 minor cosmetics. Once you have a drop and wheels, the car will already look better. Now time foor some inexpensive cosmetic mods.....window tint, light bulbs, shift ****, or whatever you like. there are alot of cheap/free cosmetic mods out there (home depot lip, Mach 1 lip, smoked side markers, etc)
#6 Power. The STRONGEST part of the 2002 Maxima stock, so address it last. Intake doesn'nt get you much for the money, neither does exhaust. Headers get you alot of power, but will take up a big chunk of your budget. Decide if you NEED more power right now before you go throw away money. The VQ35 is pretty strong as-is.
08-25-2009, 06:54 PM
#30
Where in NOVA are you? Although I don't have my maxima anymore, one of the BEST set-up 5th gens on here is in Fairfax (Puppetmaster/Joel). It has a good blend of cosmetics, power, suspension, and brake mods all done "the right way and in the right order."
08-25-2009, 07:03 PM
#31
CAI = no
MT90 = no in an autotragic
Hawk HPS = yes
Spacers = NO...get wheels with a better offset and less weight
Louvers = NO
illuminas = yes
Injen = GOD, PLEASE NO!
spoiler = only if it's a stock one
tires = only if you need new tires (can't still av the originals at 85k!!)
sound system upgrade = yes...new HU at least.
syn tranny fluid = depends
new battery = only if the one you have is bad
plugs = yes
coils = no unless there is a problem/misfire
flush tranny/redline = depends
G 18's = me likey.
Stillen front lip = waste of money
exhaust = Bpipe only, unless you go full headers
suspension = yes, but depends
intake = no, unles you can find PR or Cattman
audio = sure
HID = you already have them, so no...and don't go buy some gay 8000k ricers..
ebay intake = just make a GAB
headers = yes
custom exhaust = whatever
NWP stuff = yes, though priced a bit high IMO
ECU = not et
SAFT = not yet
coilovers = go spring/strut. QUALITY coilovers cost $1500+, not $700+
cosmetics = whatever
RSB = yes
This man wins the prize for smartest build so far.
another winning post. listen to the man.
definitely all of these things, plus some blinker fluid heaters.
now, my list:
#1 Suspension. The weakest part of the 2002 Maxima, by far.
- Illuminas
- Eibachs or H&R springs
- Rear sway bar (any brand is fine)
- Blehm stage 1 lower tie bar
- FSB bushings and other ES bushings wherever.
(total: under $1500)
#2 Brakes. The second weakest part of the 2002 Maxima
- SS lines
- new pads (I sugget Hawk HPS for street)
- new rotors if your old ones have poor runout or rutting
- new fluid/full flush (ATE Blue)
(total: about $250, depending on rotors)
#3 Audio upgrade (to bose or base system)
- New head unit. Your stock speakers are "ok" with a good HU unless you want serious bass or are a true audiophile. People used to say my system sounded great. They didn't know the ONLY thing I did to it was switch to a mid-level Alpine deck. All speakers were stock.
(under $500)
#4 Wheels/tires
- Something 17" or 18" (no larger!) and 8" wide for regular driving. Best offset 30-35mm. Preferably something not chrome, and something that weighs under 20lbs per wheel.
- Tires: You're in NoVa, so you want all-seasons. I suggest a 235-width Toyo Proxes 4. Aspect ratio dependent on wheel diameter.
(this will finish out your $3k budget, so stop here)
#5 minor cosmetics. Once you have a drop and wheels, the car will already look better. Now time foor some inexpensive cosmetic mods.....window tint, light bulbs, shift ****, or whatever you like. there are alot of cheap/free cosmetic mods out there (home depot lip, Mach 1 lip, smoked side markers, etc)
#6 Power. The STRONGEST part of the 2002 Maxima stock, so address it last. Intake doesn'nt get you much for the money, neither does exhaust. Headers get you alot of power, but will take up a big chunk of your budget. Decide if you NEED more power right now before you go throw away money. The VQ35 is pretty strong as-is.
MT90 = no in an autotragic
Hawk HPS = yes
Spacers = NO...get wheels with a better offset and less weight
Louvers = NO
illuminas = yes
Injen = GOD, PLEASE NO!
spoiler = only if it's a stock one
tires = only if you need new tires (can't still av the originals at 85k!!)
sound system upgrade = yes...new HU at least.
syn tranny fluid = depends
new battery = only if the one you have is bad
plugs = yes
coils = no unless there is a problem/misfire
flush tranny/redline = depends
G 18's = me likey.
Stillen front lip = waste of money
exhaust = Bpipe only, unless you go full headers
suspension = yes, but depends
intake = no, unles you can find PR or Cattman
audio = sure
HID = you already have them, so no...and don't go buy some gay 8000k ricers..
ebay intake = just make a GAB
headers = yes
custom exhaust = whatever
NWP stuff = yes, though priced a bit high IMO
ECU = not et
SAFT = not yet
coilovers = go spring/strut. QUALITY coilovers cost $1500+, not $700+
cosmetics = whatever
RSB = yes
This man wins the prize for smartest build so far.
another winning post. listen to the man.
definitely all of these things, plus some blinker fluid heaters.
now, my list:
#1 Suspension. The weakest part of the 2002 Maxima, by far.
- Illuminas
- Eibachs or H&R springs
- Rear sway bar (any brand is fine)
- Blehm stage 1 lower tie bar
- FSB bushings and other ES bushings wherever.
(total: under $1500)
#2 Brakes. The second weakest part of the 2002 Maxima
- SS lines
- new pads (I sugget Hawk HPS for street)
- new rotors if your old ones have poor runout or rutting
- new fluid/full flush (ATE Blue)
(total: about $250, depending on rotors)
#3 Audio upgrade (to bose or base system)
- New head unit. Your stock speakers are "ok" with a good HU unless you want serious bass or are a true audiophile. People used to say my system sounded great. They didn't know the ONLY thing I did to it was switch to a mid-level Alpine deck. All speakers were stock.
(under $500)
#4 Wheels/tires
- Something 17" or 18" (no larger!) and 8" wide for regular driving. Best offset 30-35mm. Preferably something not chrome, and something that weighs under 20lbs per wheel.
- Tires: You're in NoVa, so you want all-seasons. I suggest a 235-width Toyo Proxes 4. Aspect ratio dependent on wheel diameter.
(this will finish out your $3k budget, so stop here)
#5 minor cosmetics. Once you have a drop and wheels, the car will already look better. Now time foor some inexpensive cosmetic mods.....window tint, light bulbs, shift ****, or whatever you like. there are alot of cheap/free cosmetic mods out there (home depot lip, Mach 1 lip, smoked side markers, etc)
#6 Power. The STRONGEST part of the 2002 Maxima stock, so address it last. Intake doesn'nt get you much for the money, neither does exhaust. Headers get you alot of power, but will take up a big chunk of your budget. Decide if you NEED more power right now before you go throw away money. The VQ35 is pretty strong as-is.
08-25-2009, 07:16 PM
#32
Because of the very conservative fuel/timing maps on VQ30/35s. You can open them up a lot even with VAFC (on a 3.5) and with a UTEC well I think sparks03max hit a 13.0 flat with H/E/UTEC.
08-25-2009, 08:17 PM
#34
huh? 
cry you a river about what?
huh? Try reading. I was talking about Puppetmaster's car, not mine.
Honestly, I didn't even look at the usernames of the people I quoted and didn't even notice it was you. But a $700 coilover usually isn't going to be very good quality, you have to admit.
lol, you know they're not the same...JICs are much better than Ksport. That's why you switched 
It's cool man. I just think with a $3k budget he'd be better off with a spring/strut combo since it's cheaper and will ride better if he's just street driving, leave him more $$ for other things. Coilovers are really only worth it if you're a) gonna slam it or b) gonna do motorsports. If he just wants a 1" drop or something, why bother with C/Os, just a waste of money. Now, if he wants to slam it he def. needs to go coilovers since he'll bottom out his struts with spring/strut setup. I'm guessing he's not doing motorsports.....
ECU I would do after he's done other stuff, so he doesn't have to get retunes when he adds other things. 3.5 has good powerband already if he's just driving on the street. You know like I do that the suspension and brakes are the major weak spots. You know this!
cry you a river about what?huh?
Try reading. I was talking about Puppetmaster's car, not mine.Honestly, I didn't even look at the usernames of the people I quoted and didn't even notice it was you. But a $700 coilover usually isn't going to be very good quality, you have to admit.
ECU I would do after he's done other stuff, so he doesn't have to get retunes when he adds other things. 3.5 has good powerband already if he's just driving on the street. You know like I do that the suspension and brakes are the major weak spots. You know this!
08-25-2009, 08:24 PM
#36
+1 on suspension and brake improvements and Irish has a really good point about the sound system. I changed to an Alpine 9833 and it gave me a huge jump in sound quality with BOSE speakers.
As far as retunes go with UTEC you can tune on the street and for N/A mods like if you added NWP spacers or VIAS blockoff you can make those AFR corrections with relative ease without going to a dyno.
Grand Hustle I wasn't referring to a 13.0 AFR I was referring to 13.0 1/4 mile lol.
UTEC > AFC because of ignition control and ability to raise the rev limiter. Better resolution in the tuning software as well, and direct control of the fuel injectors as opposed to altering AFR by the MAF signal which is also gonna d!ck around with your ign. timing unexpectedly.
IMO the TS is nice but reflash isn't as accurate as an actual dyno tune with a strong piggyback and if you change stuff yes you have to send it out and that's weaksauce. I wouldn't go with an AFC at all, you 5.5 guys are lucky since the UTEC works well with your cars, so take advantage of it if the funds allow.
As far as retunes go with UTEC you can tune on the street and for N/A mods like if you added NWP spacers or VIAS blockoff you can make those AFR corrections with relative ease without going to a dyno.
Grand Hustle I wasn't referring to a 13.0 AFR I was referring to 13.0 1/4 mile lol.
UTEC > AFC because of ignition control and ability to raise the rev limiter. Better resolution in the tuning software as well, and direct control of the fuel injectors as opposed to altering AFR by the MAF signal which is also gonna d!ck around with your ign. timing unexpectedly.
IMO the TS is nice but reflash isn't as accurate as an actual dyno tune with a strong piggyback and if you change stuff yes you have to send it out and that's weaksauce. I wouldn't go with an AFC at all, you 5.5 guys are lucky since the UTEC works well with your cars, so take advantage of it if the funds allow.
Last edited by MoncefA33; 08-25-2009 at 08:31 PM.
08-25-2009, 08:33 PM
#37
seems like u paid attention to the username on the previous quotes, the reason why i switched and we both know it so lets not go giving the forums false info... I sold my K-sports because my GF crashed my car and i needed all the $$$ to buy (at the time a GS300, else i would've kept my side skirts and rear valence and the coilovers, heck intake and catback also) i sold everything then realised everybody had sentimental values to there lexus and wanted to sell a 200K mileage 98 GS for $9000 plus, so i figured i wouldnt go that route and bought the cheaper 5.5 maxima which i own right now after i sold all the parts off my 5th (hence why my car has no aero mods right now) 
im not sponsored or in anyways endorsed by k-sport or anybody so i have no reason to make them look good, i get the same cluncking noise with these JIC's as i did with my K-sports, only difference with the cluncks, K-sport had one decent sounding one and JIC has multiple quiet ones around turns (pick ur poison)
08-25-2009, 08:51 PM
#38
the reason why i switched and we both know it so lets not go giving the forums false info... I sold my K-sports because my GF crashed my car and i needed all the $$$ to buy (at the time a GS300, else i would've kept my side skirts and rear valence and the coilovers, heck intake and catback also) i sold everything then realised everybody had sentimental values to there lexus and wanted to sell a 200K mileage 98 GS for $9000 plus, so i figured i wouldnt go that route and bought the cheaper 5.5 maxima which i own right now after i sold all the parts off my 5th (hence why my car has no aero mods right now)
You know there's no way to follow what you and your croo are constantly doing with your rides, lol.....always some drama going on, heh..
im not sponsored or in anyways endorsed by k-sport or anybody so i have no reason to make them look good, i get the same cluncking noise with these JIC's as i did with my K-sports, only difference with the cluncks, K-sport had one decent sounding one and JIC has multiple quiet ones around turns (pick ur poison)
(btw, I had the same kinds of noises when using Stillen camber plates....pillowball/spherical tops = always making teh noises....)
its all gravy though...
08-26-2009, 12:48 AM
#39
08-26-2009, 05:50 AM
#40
Irish, he asked for our suggestions and I think everyone here is "suggesting" what works/worked for them on their car. Albeit I was wrong with the trans fluid but just because you don't like something don't trash our suggestions. He may want louvers or may even like his Bose radio a few ppl here do.
Last edited by Maxgig; 08-26-2009 at 06:00 AM.