ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Edit: maybe it wasn't a problem with the mount but a problem with the install
Edit 2: NOPE! Bearing was bad & even the new bearing went bad in a month!

Replaced my struts & mounts less than a month ago. Now the front passenger mount area is making a clicking/creaking-door type noise when stationary & turning the steering wheel. Was getting an alignment & a tech confirmed that was my problem.

My question is, what did I do wrong on the install? I torqued the three strut-mount nuts, the strut-knuckle nuts, and the center strut nut down to spec while suspension was loaded. Was I supposed to do this with suspension unloaded?

In case I'm not at fault, beware of Monroe Strut Mate / Mounts. On the other hand, I am battling a different problem (excessive bump steer) so that may have something to do with it. Shoulda just went with Moog from the git-go.

Pics in post #5

vastmax

iTrader: (18)

when it comes to replacing suspension/steering components, stick with moog. you can find a 5% coupon on google for rockauto.com

ShippedOut

iTrader: (1)

Monroe isn't your best bet trust me. Either go with OEM, Moog or KYB for all suspension components

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Guess I learned the hard way. The Monroe mounts were like 20 bucks cheaper than Moog (and I bought them off Rockauto). Everything I've replaced on my suspension has been Moog (except for the KYB struts).

So why did they fail so quickly is what I wanna know? Why are they inferior to OEM or Moog?

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

So, I attempt to disassemble the strut to see what's wrong. And the result: couldn't find anything wrong aside from some minor paint chipping of the mount. The mount was still all intact, and the bearing could still rotate freely.

It was apparent trying to rotate the strut (while installed) that there was some binding causing the spring to move a bit in the strut seat. Upon removal of the spring from the strut, I noticed the bottom of the spring isolator had some deterioration and developed a minor hole - guess that was due to the friction.

I think the problem was just incorrect (as in, excessive) torque which put too much pressure on the mount & caused some paint to chip which might've interfered with smooth rotation of the bearing.

I took everything apart, and since everything still looked normal, I reassembled the strut & made sure I was using the right torque specs as detailed in the FSM. After the removal, disassembly, simple cleaning, reassembly, & reinstallation, I don't get the clicking anymore but it remains to be seen if it will return.

Top & bottom of mount had no play or loose parts:






Bearing was alright:




The sandwich piece (between the mount and the upper spring seat) had some minor paint chipping, which probably caused the binding:

MidN1te

iTrader: (2)

here's an important question..

when you took out everything.. and replaced everything.. DID YOU MARK the springs and top hat and shocks with like white out from top to bottom and align them back in a straight line?

I ask this because i had the same problem.. same noise...

turns out it started to bind because I THOUGHT i had aligned them and put everything back like i was supposed too and i swore up n down that i did..

i didnt..

redid it and had to mark everything and put it back adn the top rubber bushing was actually way off... so when you turn it starts to bind, making you think something is just caught up... which technically, it was.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Good point. I didn't make any marks. I put the upper spring seat on making sure OUT was in-line with the lower strut bolt holes. I did have to rotate the top part a bit to make the bolts line up in the strut tower's holes. Didn't think that the seat might be rotating as well - I should double check that! Good advice.

Goes to show that you can't always blame the part! Luckily I'm a noob so I'm not that hard on myself.

MidN1te

iTrader: (2)

hahaha..

believe me.. when i first took them out... i was like.. man it only goes on ONE way... yea.. that wasn't the case lol... and i did the same.. i would rotate it and what not to make it *fit*.. and that's where my mistake was lol...

easy fix though

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I need to double check that before I have some more issues.

Now that's what I like to hear when it comes to cars!

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Today when I took the strut out the car, OUT was still facing out. So the position of the top spring seat didn't change. Trying to rotate the top mount by hand, I could feel it was binding up in the mount/bearing. Maybe too much torque still? I loosened the top strut nut up some. Haven't driven yet to see result - will update.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Nope, still clicking & binding. Maybe it is the bearing after all.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Well, getting 'em replaced under warranty. The bearing is shot when under-pressure. When I had it in my hand it rotates fine but under-load it binds.

tunafish51

you still have a warranty on an 02?

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

On the Monroe mount that I bought from Rockauto in June, yes (90 day).

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

What the heck. Month later, sounds like the bearing's going bad again. And it's only on the passenger side; driver side has been fine since August!

Video...listen to the knocking

MidN1te

iTrader: (2)

when i did mine wrong the first time.. i had the same issue.. the sound came back for me..

it turns out that the mount is perfectly fine... the metal part that sits ON the spring is facing the wrong way... thats why i said its SO important that it sits the same way it came off...thus why you needed to mark it... that porton does sit at a diagonal but its hard to tell when its dissassembled because the chit all looks the same...

i'm guaranteeing you its not the mount.. i've used them before its not an issue... the bearings are getting shot. you need to make sure that metal porton that sits on the spring is sitting the right way... the mount can rotate so as long as its facing FRONT like its supposed to.. when you say OUT... you mean FRONT? because the top mount has a F on one of the bolts which should be facing towards the front of the car.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

When I say OUT I mean the word 'OUT' on the top metal seat is pointing outwards (facing the right...this is the passenger side). Both times I took it out, the word 'OUT' was still in the same position.

vball_max

iTrader: (5)

Stick with MOOG or OEM strut mounts. I have had problems with KYB mounts which sounded exactly like the OP's problem. It was also only on the drivers side.

MidN1te

iTrader: (2)

I've never had problems with monroe *shrug*..

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Well if I factor in the problem with steering that I have (bump steer), enough forceful impacts that cause the wheel to toe-in/out suddenly could possibly be destroying the bearing by making it rotate faster than it can support. Wild guess. This is why I'm not gonna replace the bearing/mount (yet) 'cause I'm not all too sure it's a Monroe problem and any bearing I throw in there might yield the same short lifespan. But if I do replace the mount/bearing, I doubt I'd stick with Monroe.