Who uses O2 sim on an '03? Problems?
Who uses O2 sim on an '03? Problems?
I put an O2 sim on my '03 to take the rear sensors out of the equation, but I'm throwing a PO1167 "minimum voltage not met". It looks like the ECU is smart enough to realize the sensor voltage should change more than it does with the sim. So I'm wondering if anyone else has used a sim on an '03 successfully?
You can't fully remove the sensors with just the o2 simulators. The o2 simulator only stops the code for the pre cats.
The sensors are self heating and the computer senses the draw as they pull power to heat up. Right now the computer thinks the o2 sensors are broken and not self heating. You either have to leave the sensors plugged into what's left of the harness or wire in a resister for each one to simulate the draw from the heating elements. I left mine wired up and made a bracket to mount them in a somewhat hidden spot under the hood.
The sensors are self heating and the computer senses the draw as they pull power to heat up. Right now the computer thinks the o2 sensors are broken and not self heating. You either have to leave the sensors plugged into what's left of the harness or wire in a resister for each one to simulate the draw from the heating elements. I left mine wired up and made a bracket to mount them in a somewhat hidden spot under the hood.
Last edited by Derrick2k2SE; Sep 18, 2009 at 01:23 PM.
You can't fully remove the sensors with just the o2 simulators. The o2 simulator only stops the code for the pre cats.
The sensors are self heating and the computer senses the draw as they pull power to heat up. Right now the computer thinks the o2 sensors are broken and not self heating. You either have to leave the sensors plugged into what's left of the harness or wire in a resister for each one to simulate the draw from the heating elements. I left mine wired up and made a bracket to mount them in a somewhat hidden spot under the hood.
The sensors are self heating and the computer senses the draw as they pull power to heat up. Right now the computer thinks the o2 sensors are broken and not self heating. You either have to leave the sensors plugged into what's left of the harness or wire in a resister for each one to simulate the draw from the heating elements. I left mine wired up and made a bracket to mount them in a somewhat hidden spot under the hood.
I have that exact same problem. Never found an answer.
I throw codes 1147 and 1167 when I go for a long steady drive on the highway for like an hour.
I'm sure I hooked the simulator up correctly, because I verified the voltage going to the secondary o2 inputs with an ECU scanner.
Also, 1147 and 1167 don't appear to be heater codes.
Just for the heck of it, I disconnected my heater resistors, and I different heater code popped up within three minutes. If anyone finds an answer, keep us posted.
Seems like the voltage coming from the simulator doesn't fluctuate enough.
I throw codes 1147 and 1167 when I go for a long steady drive on the highway for like an hour.
I'm sure I hooked the simulator up correctly, because I verified the voltage going to the secondary o2 inputs with an ECU scanner.
Also, 1147 and 1167 don't appear to be heater codes.
Just for the heck of it, I disconnected my heater resistors, and I different heater code popped up within three minutes. If anyone finds an answer, keep us posted.
Seems like the voltage coming from the simulator doesn't fluctuate enough.
I have that exact same problem. Never found an answer.
I throw codes 1147 and 1167 when I go for a long steady drive on the highway for like an hour.
I'm sure I hooked the simulator up correctly, because I verified the voltage going to the secondary o2 inputs with an ECU scanner.
Also, 1147 and 1167 don't appear to be heater codes.
Just for the heck of it, I disconnected my heater resistors, and I different heater code popped up within three minutes. If anyone finds an answer, keep us posted.
Seems like the voltage coming from the simulator doesn't fluctuate enough.
I throw codes 1147 and 1167 when I go for a long steady drive on the highway for like an hour.
I'm sure I hooked the simulator up correctly, because I verified the voltage going to the secondary o2 inputs with an ECU scanner.
Also, 1147 and 1167 don't appear to be heater codes.
Just for the heck of it, I disconnected my heater resistors, and I different heater code popped up within three minutes. If anyone finds an answer, keep us posted.
Seems like the voltage coming from the simulator doesn't fluctuate enough.
There are a lot of us running the o2 sim with no problems. It could be that your ECU is smarter than ours but I really doubt it. It should work. There is a solution to this. It has to be a bad o2 sim, bad instal or bad heater on one of the o2 sensors.
Was it throwing a code before you did this?
Where did you get the o2 sim?
Was it throwing a code before you did this?
Where did you get the o2 sim?
It could be a bad sim, but it threw the codes on my first long highway trip like the day after I installed the sim.
It seems if I cruise at around 65mph for an hour or so, it will throw the code.
It looks like it's partially working because when I removed the sim, the codes popped up much faster, same with the heater resistors.
My voltage output from the sim is .1xx to .6xx. It flip flops every three seconds. (every time the light is on)
It's very random. Sometimes it won't throw a code for 2000 miles, sometimes it will throw 200 miles after I reset it.
Dual output sim, btw.
It seems if I cruise at around 65mph for an hour or so, it will throw the code.
It looks like it's partially working because when I removed the sim, the codes popped up much faster, same with the heater resistors.
My voltage output from the sim is .1xx to .6xx. It flip flops every three seconds. (every time the light is on)
It's very random. Sometimes it won't throw a code for 2000 miles, sometimes it will throw 200 miles after I reset it.
Dual output sim, btw.
It could be a bad sim, but it threw the codes on my first long highway trip like the day after I installed the sim.
It seems if I cruise at around 65mph for an hour or so, it will throw the code.
It looks like it's partially working because when I removed the sim, the codes popped up much faster, same with the heater resistors.
My voltage output from the sim is .1xx to .6xx. It flip flops every three seconds. (every time the light is on)
It's very random. Sometimes it won't throw a code for 2000 miles, sometimes it will throw 200 miles after I reset it.
Dual output sim, btw.
It seems if I cruise at around 65mph for an hour or so, it will throw the code.
It looks like it's partially working because when I removed the sim, the codes popped up much faster, same with the heater resistors.
My voltage output from the sim is .1xx to .6xx. It flip flops every three seconds. (every time the light is on)
It's very random. Sometimes it won't throw a code for 2000 miles, sometimes it will throw 200 miles after I reset it.
Dual output sim, btw.
I really would like to find a solution for this.
ok, i was waiting for someting like this. So i have a heater code showing for bank 2 for me. i got the 10ohm resisters. clack blocks with like two wires at each end. i got 4 of them. how would one wire them up to get that heater code off?
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