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Who uses O2 sim on an '03? Problems?

Old Sep 18, 2009 | 12:46 PM
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Who uses O2 sim on an '03? Problems?

I put an O2 sim on my '03 to take the rear sensors out of the equation, but I'm throwing a PO1167 "minimum voltage not met". It looks like the ECU is smart enough to realize the sensor voltage should change more than it does with the sim. So I'm wondering if anyone else has used a sim on an '03 successfully?
Old Sep 18, 2009 | 01:04 PM
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You can't fully remove the sensors with just the o2 simulators. The o2 simulator only stops the code for the pre cats.

The sensors are self heating and the computer senses the draw as they pull power to heat up. Right now the computer thinks the o2 sensors are broken and not self heating. You either have to leave the sensors plugged into what's left of the harness or wire in a resister for each one to simulate the draw from the heating elements. I left mine wired up and made a bracket to mount them in a somewhat hidden spot under the hood.

Last edited by Derrick2k2SE; Sep 18, 2009 at 01:23 PM.
Old Sep 18, 2009 | 03:11 PM
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Yeah, just leave them plugged in and zip tie them under the engine cover.
Old Sep 18, 2009 | 05:28 PM
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my sim worked for a while, then it got flaky, now it is just taking up space under the hood.
Old Sep 18, 2009 | 05:33 PM
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Does anyone know where the 02 sensor is located on a 1995 maxima gle?
Old Sep 18, 2009 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
Yeah, just leave them plugged in and zip tie them under the engine cover.
That works, just remember thet get hot on their own so be careful where you put them.
Old Sep 18, 2009 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Derrick2k2SE
You can't fully remove the sensors with just the o2 simulators. The o2 simulator only stops the code for the pre cats.

The sensors are self heating and the computer senses the draw as they pull power to heat up. Right now the computer thinks the o2 sensors are broken and not self heating. You either have to leave the sensors plugged into what's left of the harness or wire in a resister for each one to simulate the draw from the heating elements. I left mine wired up and made a bracket to mount them in a somewhat hidden spot under the hood.
The heater is still connected. Maybe it's bad though.
Old Sep 18, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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Are the sensors still in the exhaust system or did you remove them for headers?
Old Sep 19, 2009 | 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Derrick2k2SE
Are the sensors still in the exhaust system or did you remove them for headers?
They're still in the exhaust for now. I'm getting ready for headers.
Old Sep 19, 2009 | 07:08 AM
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You may have cut the power or ground wire for the heating element when you wired in the sim. I believe that code is for bank 2.

Was it showing the code before you installed the sim?
Old Sep 19, 2009 | 09:18 AM
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I have that exact same problem. Never found an answer.

I throw codes 1147 and 1167 when I go for a long steady drive on the highway for like an hour.

I'm sure I hooked the simulator up correctly, because I verified the voltage going to the secondary o2 inputs with an ECU scanner.

Also, 1147 and 1167 don't appear to be heater codes.

Just for the heck of it, I disconnected my heater resistors, and I different heater code popped up within three minutes. If anyone finds an answer, keep us posted.

Seems like the voltage coming from the simulator doesn't fluctuate enough.
Old Sep 19, 2009 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Unklejoe
I have that exact same problem. Never found an answer.

I throw codes 1147 and 1167 when I go for a long steady drive on the highway for like an hour.

I'm sure I hooked the simulator up correctly, because I verified the voltage going to the secondary o2 inputs with an ECU scanner.

Also, 1147 and 1167 don't appear to be heater codes.

Just for the heck of it, I disconnected my heater resistors, and I different heater code popped up within three minutes. If anyone finds an answer, keep us posted.

Seems like the voltage coming from the simulator doesn't fluctuate enough.
The simulators don't last forever. My first one lasted a few years then failed.
Old Sep 19, 2009 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Unklejoe
I have that exact same problem. Never found an answer.
I'm glad it's not just me. I'm sure it's all wired correctly and I watched the O2 sim output on an oscilloscope. It looks like the ECM is smart enough to realize a real O2 sensor should have a wider swing.
Old Sep 19, 2009 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jvienneau
I'm glad it's not just me. I'm sure it's all wired correctly and I watched the O2 sim output on an oscilloscope. It looks like the ECM is smart enough to realize a real O2 sensor should have a wider swing.
Hey now. Breaking out the O-scope is over kill LOL. At least play some 20 khz tones really loud to annoy the **** out of kids
Old Sep 19, 2009 | 10:23 PM
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There are a lot of us running the o2 sim with no problems. It could be that your ECU is smarter than ours but I really doubt it. It should work. There is a solution to this. It has to be a bad o2 sim, bad instal or bad heater on one of the o2 sensors.

Was it throwing a code before you did this?
Where did you get the o2 sim?
Old Sep 19, 2009 | 10:34 PM
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It could be a bad sim, but it threw the codes on my first long highway trip like the day after I installed the sim.

It seems if I cruise at around 65mph for an hour or so, it will throw the code.

It looks like it's partially working because when I removed the sim, the codes popped up much faster, same with the heater resistors.

My voltage output from the sim is .1xx to .6xx. It flip flops every three seconds. (every time the light is on)

It's very random. Sometimes it won't throw a code for 2000 miles, sometimes it will throw 200 miles after I reset it.

Dual output sim, btw.
Old Sep 20, 2009 | 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Unklejoe
It could be a bad sim, but it threw the codes on my first long highway trip like the day after I installed the sim.

It seems if I cruise at around 65mph for an hour or so, it will throw the code.

It looks like it's partially working because when I removed the sim, the codes popped up much faster, same with the heater resistors.

My voltage output from the sim is .1xx to .6xx. It flip flops every three seconds. (every time the light is on)

It's very random. Sometimes it won't throw a code for 2000 miles, sometimes it will throw 200 miles after I reset it.

Dual output sim, btw.
Mine is doing the exact same thing. I was getting a 138 before the sim, now I get 1147/1167 after some random number of miles. I got the sim from 02simular.com (dual output). Are there better ones?
Old Sep 20, 2009 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jvienneau
Mine is doing the exact same thing. I was getting a 138 before the sim, now I get 1147/1167 after some random number of miles. I got the sim from 02simular.com (dual output). Are there better ones?
I got the same one as you. Little PCB encased in some kind of clear epoxy.

I really would like to find a solution for this.
Old Sep 20, 2009 | 08:53 AM
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ok, i was waiting for someting like this. So i have a heater code showing for bank 2 for me. i got the 10ohm resisters. clack blocks with like two wires at each end. i got 4 of them. how would one wire them up to get that heater code off?
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