03 Valve Problem
you dont have any check engine light either right? you know any mechanics that you can take it to, and see if they can diagnose it?
yup yup..original owner since july 02 
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 68
From: S. Florida
My mechanic had the car for a day about 3 months ago when this started, he said he could not diagnose a problem that isnt there. Meaning the car decided to not clatter that day 
now that I'm going back to florida and the problem seems to be more frequent now, I will take it back to him if the oil change thing doesnt work.
I am leaving texas on wendesday morning so I will definitely know by thursday if the 5w50 synthetic helped. I will keep you guys posted, hopefully I can find the cause of this so any one else who comes across this will have a good starting point for a solution.
now that I'm going back to florida and the problem seems to be more frequent now, I will take it back to him if the oil change thing doesnt work.
I am leaving texas on wendesday morning so I will definitely know by thursday if the 5w50 synthetic helped. I will keep you guys posted, hopefully I can find the cause of this so any one else who comes across this will have a good starting point for a solution.
I can't tell, since it seems the thread has took 2 different directions???, but valve train noise or pinging from premature detonation can't tell which???? Maybe its the thread jackers.
So, FWIW, I'll chime in on my 9yr experience with my Max... I have experienced the valve train noise or "lifter tick" numerous times. Pre-diagnois lead me in a few different directions.
1) Actual lifters "ticking"
2) just loud injectors
3) low oil, due to excess burn
4) could I be throwing a rod???
I narrowed it down to the lifters, although I must comment the injectors are a tad on the noisey side and could be confused by someone with lesser mech. expertise as to being a lifter problem.
I would get the lifter noise when I used specific brands of oil filters, and when the oil would get to the middle mark on the hash's on the dipstick. Neither two would correlate unless both problems where there. So the only oil filter, thus far because I haven't tried a Wix filter yet, they doesn't give me the "tick" has been the Mobil 1 filter. Fram (all forms), K&N, Puralator all gave me the valve train noise. Usually on start up and would go away (most of the time) once warm. I will also get it when the oil is have way on the hash marks on the dipstick. That was my usual tell-tell as when I had burnt off enough oil and it was time to add.
I don't get any of the noise if the Mobil 1 filter is in, and I stay on top of the oil. And if I basically check it weekly and added as needed rather than waiting a month or so. That made me conclude the "tick" was caused by lower oil.
NOW on a different note--> I haven't had to add ANY oil since I changed my PCV valve over a year ago... don't know if that matters much (did to me) but I changed the PCV valve and oil burn, disappering act, or whatever was going on there is GONE. Anyhoo my 2cents.
*EDIT* haha i type to fast and have so many mistakes, oh well! Just laughed, not as bad as some though.
So, FWIW, I'll chime in on my 9yr experience with my Max... I have experienced the valve train noise or "lifter tick" numerous times. Pre-diagnois lead me in a few different directions.
1) Actual lifters "ticking"
2) just loud injectors
3) low oil, due to excess burn
4) could I be throwing a rod???
I narrowed it down to the lifters, although I must comment the injectors are a tad on the noisey side and could be confused by someone with lesser mech. expertise as to being a lifter problem.
I would get the lifter noise when I used specific brands of oil filters, and when the oil would get to the middle mark on the hash's on the dipstick. Neither two would correlate unless both problems where there. So the only oil filter, thus far because I haven't tried a Wix filter yet, they doesn't give me the "tick" has been the Mobil 1 filter. Fram (all forms), K&N, Puralator all gave me the valve train noise. Usually on start up and would go away (most of the time) once warm. I will also get it when the oil is have way on the hash marks on the dipstick. That was my usual tell-tell as when I had burnt off enough oil and it was time to add.
I don't get any of the noise if the Mobil 1 filter is in, and I stay on top of the oil. And if I basically check it weekly and added as needed rather than waiting a month or so. That made me conclude the "tick" was caused by lower oil.
NOW on a different note--> I haven't had to add ANY oil since I changed my PCV valve over a year ago... don't know if that matters much (did to me) but I changed the PCV valve and oil burn, disappering act, or whatever was going on there is GONE. Anyhoo my 2cents.
*EDIT* haha i type to fast and have so many mistakes, oh well! Just laughed, not as bad as some though.
Last edited by J-Rod; Sep 29, 2009 at 12:11 PM.
This has been driving me nuts also.
I want to update this thread with everything I found so far.
I switched to shell gasoline (on the 2nd tank now) and I used techron fuel injector cleaner. Did not help the problem.
I dumped a quart of oil out and tried some lucas. My idol got smoother but still pinging.
I just drove 20 hours straight from Vegas to San Antonio and the valves were pinging like crazy during the daytime, but not as bad at nite. So this made me start thinking my problem may be the oil. I lived in high heat areas for the past 3 years and just about all mechanics use the manufacturers recommended oil (which is 10w30). I dont think that is rite once you consider our country covers different extremes of temperature.
I may be wrong about this or maybe I am explaining this wrong but I am going to explain this as best I can but if any one can do better than me please chime in. This is how it was explained to me a couple of years ago. The first number represents its cold temperature viscosity, the second number is hot temperature viscosity. Viscosity is how well the oil lubricates and/or performs under certain conditions. So the first number is important during startup, even more so if you live in areas that get really cold, lower is better because the oil is more water like or thin so your oil pump can kick it up easier. The second number is important after your car is warmed up, higher is better because the oil is thick or heavy and performing well in high heat.
So an oil rating of like 5w50 would be ideal, so I just did an oil change today with castrol 5w50. I drove the car around for about an hour afterwards and not even 1 ping, knock, or complaint. My idle is smooth and the engine seems happy. I dont know if this solved the problem for sure but the second leg of my trip is coming up on wendesday, I will be leaving San Antonio and heading to Miami. I will update this thread when I get there. Hopefully this works.
I want to update this thread with everything I found so far.
I switched to shell gasoline (on the 2nd tank now) and I used techron fuel injector cleaner. Did not help the problem.
I dumped a quart of oil out and tried some lucas. My idol got smoother but still pinging.
I just drove 20 hours straight from Vegas to San Antonio and the valves were pinging like crazy during the daytime, but not as bad at nite. So this made me start thinking my problem may be the oil. I lived in high heat areas for the past 3 years and just about all mechanics use the manufacturers recommended oil (which is 10w30). I dont think that is rite once you consider our country covers different extremes of temperature.
I may be wrong about this or maybe I am explaining this wrong but I am going to explain this as best I can but if any one can do better than me please chime in. This is how it was explained to me a couple of years ago. The first number represents its cold temperature viscosity, the second number is hot temperature viscosity. Viscosity is how well the oil lubricates and/or performs under certain conditions. So the first number is important during startup, even more so if you live in areas that get really cold, lower is better because the oil is more water like or thin so your oil pump can kick it up easier. The second number is important after your car is warmed up, higher is better because the oil is thick or heavy and performing well in high heat.
So an oil rating of like 5w50 would be ideal, so I just did an oil change today with castrol 5w50. I drove the car around for about an hour afterwards and not even 1 ping, knock, or complaint. My idle is smooth and the engine seems happy. I dont know if this solved the problem for sure but the second leg of my trip is coming up on wendesday, I will be leaving San Antonio and heading to Miami. I will update this thread when I get there. Hopefully this works.
Don't know if it matters, but I thought all the max's are recommend to run 5w30? Don't think I have seen a newer car that uses the 10w30 (as you posted) anymore since the engine blocks (passage's) and oil (grade) has improved significantly over the years to allow for a thinner oil. Don't get me wrong, you can run what you want... just not for sure you statement about the manafacture recommended being 10w30.
And to add for the other part of this thread... my experience has been anything less than 91 octane in my max has given my pre-detonation. Even when I ran the 91, AFTER, running 93 for years (i would run 91 when i was traveling and knew the whole tank would be highway fuel) I would get some ping and the end of the tank.
What you are describing is most likely the spark knock. It occurs at aprox. 1750-2250 rpm when driving smooth(not accelerating hard). It gets louder when its hotter outside or when the car is under heavy load. I've had this issue on my 97 max, and as far as I know most nissans have this problem(altima, quest) I've read another thread where someone used chevron fuel treatment over and over, and the pinging stopped. Someone else said that its the MAF. I am leaning towards the third reason-flow in design of the heads. The pinging is pretty much harmless if its not for some other reason such as engine overheating, timing issue or bad knock sensor(in any of those cases the knock would be constant), but based on the mechanics of it I can assume that it would be better to avoid driving in that rpm range for extended periods of time. I am working on getting this fixed-I seafoamed my car(instant improvement, still pinging), I am on my second chevron techron fuel treatment and it seems to be getting better. If few more treatment dont resolve the issue, I will try using CRC MAF Cleaner. If that fails, I will change the MAF. If anyone is interested what the outcome will be, please let me know and I will keep you guys up to date.
What you are describing is most likely the spark knock. It occurs at aprox. 1750-2250 rpm when driving smooth(not accelerating hard). It gets louder when its hotter outside or when the car is under heavy load. I've had this issue on my 97 max, and as far as I know most nissans have this problem(altima, quest) I've read another thread where someone used chevron fuel treatment over and over, and the pinging stopped. Someone else said that its the MAF. I am leaning towards the third reason-flow in design of the heads. The pinging is pretty much harmless if its not for some other reason such as engine overheating, timing issue or bad knock sensor(in any of those cases the knock would be constant), but based on the mechanics of it I can assume that it would be better to avoid driving in that rpm range for extended periods of time. I am working on getting this fixed-I seafoamed my car(instant improvement, still pinging), I am on my second chevron techron fuel treatment and it seems to be getting better. If few more treatment dont resolve the issue, I will try using CRC MAF Cleaner. If that fails, I will change the MAF. If anyone is interested what the outcome will be, please let me know and I will keep you guys up to date.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 68
From: S. Florida
it seems that I am not the only one with this problem
I read carefully all theory's and explanations as well fixes. I think we all have come across the same problem but with different symptoms. Either way, the 5W50 Castrol syntec has almost completely eliminated the problem, I think I heard some tapping a few times over the 1300 miles I just drove but the noise was so faint that I cant say it was the valves for sure. In comparison, the first 1200 miles I drove from vegas to san antonio was like I had marching band under the hood at times. But this was mainly during the daytime which was between 100 and 110 degrees. At night the noise was still there butt no where near as bad or as often ( keep in mind it is sporadic) as in the day time. This is what led me to the oil. The car is pretty smooth right now, I will see how it acts over the next couple of days with stop and go city traffic.
5W30 oil is the recommended oil for this engine until you get to about 90k, then your suppose to switch to 10W30.
I think the 5W50 oil I put in mite be masking the problem but only time will tell. Once I get my $$$ problems strait, I will go back to the shop and spend some time under the hood with the mechanic, I do know my way around a little bit
I read carefully all theory's and explanations as well fixes. I think we all have come across the same problem but with different symptoms. Either way, the 5W50 Castrol syntec has almost completely eliminated the problem, I think I heard some tapping a few times over the 1300 miles I just drove but the noise was so faint that I cant say it was the valves for sure. In comparison, the first 1200 miles I drove from vegas to san antonio was like I had marching band under the hood at times. But this was mainly during the daytime which was between 100 and 110 degrees. At night the noise was still there butt no where near as bad or as often ( keep in mind it is sporadic) as in the day time. This is what led me to the oil. The car is pretty smooth right now, I will see how it acts over the next couple of days with stop and go city traffic.
5W30 oil is the recommended oil for this engine until you get to about 90k, then your suppose to switch to 10W30.
I think the 5W50 oil I put in mite be masking the problem but only time will tell. Once I get my $$$ problems strait, I will go back to the shop and spend some time under the hood with the mechanic, I do know my way around a little bit
Last edited by Kreapin; Oct 1, 2009 at 06:09 PM.
What you are describing is most likely the spark knock. It occurs at aprox. 1750-2250 rpm when driving smooth(not accelerating hard). It gets louder when its hotter outside or when the car is under heavy load. I've had this issue on my 97 max, and as far as I know most nissans have this problem(altima, quest) I've read another thread where someone used chevron fuel treatment over and over, and the pinging stopped. Someone else said that its the MAF. I am leaning towards the third reason-flow in design of the heads. The pinging is pretty much harmless if its not for some other reason such as engine overheating, timing issue or bad knock sensor(in any of those cases the knock would be constant), but based on the mechanics of it I can assume that it would be better to avoid driving in that rpm range for extended periods of time. I am working on getting this fixed-I seafoamed my car(instant improvement, still pinging), I am on my second chevron techron fuel treatment and it seems to be getting better. If few more treatment dont resolve the issue, I will try using CRC MAF Cleaner. If that fails, I will change the MAF. If anyone is interested what the outcome will be, please let me know and I will keep you guys up to date.
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