5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

Who has a NWP VIAS block plate on their 5.5 gen?

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Old 09-25-2010, 06:03 AM
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thanks alot that helps and yes the 2nd picture makes the engine look soo clean lol hopefully i dont mess up when i do it
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Old 09-25-2010, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Nismo215
thanks alot that helps and yes the 2nd picture makes the engine look soo clean lol hopefully i dont mess up when i do it
You're very welcome, Nismo.

Here's another tip when installing the block plate. There's a large, black plastic cover over the wiring harness that runs in front of the VIAS, and it's held to the top of the engine by 2 bolts. Well, this thing is somewhat in your way to access the lower bolt on the VIAS plate.

So for this plastic cover, first remove the bolt that's easily accessible. That's the one towards the front. Then just bend the plastic harness away from the UIM, bending it counter-clockwise towards the passenger side. All you're doing here is bending the retention bracket, so don't worry. At this point, you can access the second bolt holding the retainer bracket to the engine... or you can just go directly after that lower 3rd VIAS plate bolt. Either way.

Good luck with your VIAS delete project. Take your time, and you'll learn things as you go.
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Old 09-25-2010, 07:12 AM
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FWIW, I don't believe a stuck VIAS valve can trigger the code.

All that the VIAS is is a little butterfly flap on a metal hinge that's driven by a vacuum. There's no sort of sensor to indicate whether the butterfly valve is bad or not. Regardless of it opening or not, the VIAS system will continue to try to do its job.

I say this because when I was putting my block plate on, I realized that I'd somehow managed to switch the two vacuum lines running from the manifold/butterfly valve to the VIAS solenoid, and never had any SES light. Wouldn't that be considered "improperly" functioning?

Last edited by Mr. Brett; 09-25-2010 at 07:15 AM.
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Old 09-25-2010, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by SLCPunk267
FWIW, I don't believe a stuck VIAS valve can trigger the code.
I think that's right. If a faulty vale can cause the solenoid to throw a code because of the improper vacuum pressure, then having no valve at all should throw a code as well...

...which means the problem is the VIAS solenoid.
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Old 09-25-2010, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
I think that's right. If a faulty valve can cause the solenoid to throw a code because of the improper vacuum pressure, then having no valve at all should throw a code as well...

...which means the problem is the VIAS solenoid.
A stuck VIAS will not be able to trigger a DTC. The solenoid is a two wire component with no sensing circuit on it. All it sees is that there's power applied to the solenoid. Anything after that is whatever it is. There's no way for the ECU to know whether or not the VIAS is mechanically working. But if it sees a code relating to the VIAS, chances are it's either the solenoid is faulty, or there is a wiring issue. Purely something electrical.

John, I took your idea of deleting the VIAS tank the other day. Except I didn't cap the solenoid at all. I didn't have any caps laying around that would fit, so I just took the one cap that came with the BOP and put that on the upper plenum to block unmetered air. No codes, no run issues, and the ECU is happy thinking the VIAS is doing it's job
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Old 09-25-2010, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by byrdman164
John, I took your idea of deleting the VIAS tank the other day. Except I didn't cap the solenoid at all. I didn't have any caps laying around that would fit, so I just took the one cap that came with the BOP and put that on the upper plenum to block unmetered air. No codes, no run issues, and the ECU is happy thinking the VIAS is doing it's job
Bought a small box of assorted sized rubber caps a few weeks ago at Advance Auto, for like $2.50. I used one for the VIAS vacuum lead at the UIM (had to cut about 1/8" off for a perfect fit), and used two of the larger ones to cap the coolant leads around the TB (which are bypassed).

$2.50, Sean. Go buy a box and play.
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Old 09-25-2010, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Bought a small box of assorted sized rubber caps a few weeks ago at Advance Auto, for like $2.50. I used one for the VIAS vacuum lead at the UIM (had to cut about 1/8" off for a perfect fit), and used two of the larger ones to cap the coolant leads around the TB (which are bypassed).

$2.50, Sean. Go buy a box and play.
Yeah, inexpensive. When I have the money (I know I sound cheap, but I'm on disability for the time being, so I have no income). It was a quick little removal, not very well thought out either. Kinda spur of the moment really.
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:00 PM
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I've been reading this for a while and I have heard mixed reviews about the plate just like the rest. Some love, some don't. Some can feel the difference, some can't. Regardless, excellent feedback...Rochester, you're a monster!

I'll be putting mine on today as soon as I leave the office. Once I drive it for a couple of days, I'll have some feedback.

Ace
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by exandr
Mos Def!
post related- VIAS plate and spacers were easy 3-3.5 hr install for a noticeable difference. Be sure to hold on at about 3900 RPM love that feeling

Last edited by NmexMAX; 03-09-2011 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 03-09-2011, 07:35 AM
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Ok..so, I've be riding my NWP BOP for about two weeks now. As you can see, I'm pushing an 03 TE 6MT with no major mods done to it besides this one. I drive it daily and I must say...I CAN DEFINITELY FEEL THE DIFFERENCE!!!

The first day, I was at a stop light with a 2011 V8 Tundra on my right and a geared up Celica GT on my left. The light changed, we all took off...but when I hit about 3500 RPMS, IT WAS A DONE DEAL. It opened up and took off!

So needless to say, I'm pleased. But I will say this, there is a change in gas mileage so for those of you who don't want that, need that or for some odd reason thought it wouldn't happen...then this isn't for you. But if you thought there wouldn't be a change in mileage then maybe you really shouldn't be here anyway.

I cosign on this mod.
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Old 03-09-2011, 07:54 AM
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The VIAS-delete mod is more appropriate when complimented with other modifications that compensate for the low-end loss (spacers, crank pulley, flywheel), and to justify the high-end gain (exhaust, intake)... but that's cool you're enjoying the BOP.

I wasn't aware there was a mileage drop, that's interesting. I haven't looked at my mileage in a while. Maybe I should. Also wasn't aware gains could be measured by street racing a full-sized truck. I should try that.

Welcome aboard, exandr. IN BOLD FONT, no less. Always in bold...
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
The VIAS-delete mod is more appropriate when complimented with other modifications that compensate for the low-end loss (spacers, crank pulley, flywheel), and to justify the high-end gain (exhaust, intake)... but that's cool you're enjoying the BOP.

I wasn't aware there was a mileage drop, that's interesting. I haven't looked at my mileage in a while. Maybe I should. Also wasn't aware gains could be measured by street racing a full-sized truck. I should try that.

Welcome aboard, exandr. IN BOLD FONT, no less. Always in bold...

I feel you. This is just the beginning for. And a good one.

I don't do the racing or anything...I really just enjoy driving my Max. But living in the Spring Break capital of the United States...traffic is crazy and is usually a race to get home. However I sensed that they were about to try me!

Thanks nontheless

Last edited by exandr; 03-09-2011 at 08:48 AM.
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:30 AM
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Uh, surely your mileage drop is coming from you doing things like racing away from traffic lights, yeah?

The real question, Ace, is whether or not you got the embossed, premium plate! It's been proven to give +10 charisma to your clean engine bay, when used with appropriate titanium nut mods.
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:31 AM
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I'm ordering my megan catback and my berk intake this week. After reading this rochester I will have all but (spacers, crank pulley, flywheel). Which should I go to next with I/H/E?



100 Posts so the saga begins

Last edited by Sneaky Green; 03-09-2011 at 08:33 AM.
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Eirik
Uh, surely your mileage drop is coming from you doing things like racing away from traffic lights, yeah?

The real question, Ace, is whether or not you got the embossed, premium plate! It's been proven to give +10 charisma to your clean engine bay, when used with appropriate titanium nut mods.

Yea...I should have been more selective in my choice of words when I posted.

And you know I got the premium plate . When I have time, I take a photo and post it.
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:49 AM
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Just put mine on saturday but I did the 3" cattman catback and test pipe at the same time and the plate looks great and was extremly easy to install but I cant tell which gains are from what but it def pulls much harder than before thats for sure.NWP makes really nice stuff,torque links next.
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Old 03-09-2011, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
The VIAS-delete mod is more appropriate when complimented with other modifications that compensate for the low-end loss (spacers, crank pulley, flywheel), and to justify the high-end gain (exhaust, intake)... but that's cool you're enjoying the BOP.

I wasn't aware there was a mileage drop, that's interesting. I haven't looked at my mileage in a while. Maybe I should. Also wasn't aware gains could be measured by street racing a full-sized truck. I should try that.

Welcome aboard, exandr. IN BOLD FONT, no less. Always in bold...
It loses 20-30wtq below 3800 RPMs which directly results in the engine being under more load in similar conditions and a gas mileage hit. Of course... That's also the reason for the "3800 RPM kick". Take away 30wtq before 3800, add 5-6 after 3800 and you get a much more aggressive ramping of torque thus the butt dyno says OMG!!!!!!!!

Just want to note that I am NOT bashing the BOP or vias delete mod. I ran with a vias delete manifold for 2 years and was very happy with it. For me, the consistent under the curve gains from 3800 and up were and still are very much worth any losses down low. However, I will not discount the fact that removing the vias stops the functionality of it lengthening the runners and separating the plenum chamber for each bank during low RPM operation.

Last edited by NmexMAX; 03-09-2011 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 03-09-2011, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by sparks03max
Just want to note that I am NOT bashing the BOP or vias delete mod. I ran with a vias delete manifold for 2 years and was very happy with it. For me, the consistent under the curve gains from 3800 and up were and still are very much worth any losses down low. However, I will not discount the fact that removing the vias stops the functionality of it lengthening the runners and separating the plenum chamber for each bank during low RPM operation.

"However, I will not discount the fact that removing the vias stops the functionality of it lengthening the runners and separating the plenum chamber for each bank during low RPM operation"....

Translate
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Old 03-09-2011, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by exandr
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What sparks is saying is that the VIAS serves a valid purpose, which is to increase low-end torque. Since the engine spends most of it's time in the low RPM range, it's a perfect design for a mid-range, mid-market, 4-door sedan.

But for people who value the rush of WOT as the engine winds up (which is most people here, n'est-ce pas?)... ditch the VIAS.

Last edited by NmexMAX; 03-09-2011 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 03-09-2011, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by sparks03max
It loses 20-30wtq below 3800 RPMs which directly results in the engine being under more load in similar conditions and a gas mileage hit. Of course... That's also the reason for the "3800 RPM kick". Take away 30wtq before 3800, add 5-6 after 3800 and you get a much more aggressive ramping of torque thus the butt dyno says OMG!!!!!!!!
The dyno sheet from the 3.5 Altima shows smaller losses than that and bigger gains past 3800 rpms.

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/eng...-vs-stock.html

-3800rpm seems to be the magic number in this comparison. Below 3800 the Stock setup is better but after that its all gains with the NWP Blockplate and the VIAS delete!!!
-From 3800 all the way to redline with the VIAS delete I showed an average 8hp gain across the board with a peak of 10.5hp at 6000.
-From 2700 until 3800 the Stock setup was good for an average of 8hp over the VIAS delete with a peak of 9hp at 3400.
-From 3800 until redline the VIAS delete made an average of 8tq more with a peak of 10.5tq at 4200.
-From 2800 until 3800 the Stock setup was good for an average of 10tq more with a peak of 16tq more at 3400.
I agree that since there is a loss from 2800-3800 and gains from 3800 and up, that's why it feels like even bigger gains. Plus with the VIAS system in place there is a slight torque drop and the horsepower levels out for about 300 rpms after the engine reaches 3800 rpm.

What I really noticed in my 4AT was that immediately after the install, my car stopped shifting automatically at 6100-ish and would let the engine run to 6500 rpms before shifting which made it easier to take advantage the higher rpm power.

Definitely a mod I'm going to do on my 6MT. In traffic, I am usually under 2800 rpms where the block plate actually makes a little more power than stock and if I am on it, I'm not under 3800 rpms long.

exandr-I noticed no change in mileage at all and I tracked every single fill up the entire 81,000 miles I drove my other 5.5 gen.
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Old 03-09-2011, 03:23 PM
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If Scott say's the mileage hasn't changed, then that's it. The man knows his mileage calcs.

Aw-w-w... Manny edited my post. WTF? Moderators are either AWOL or ****, there's rarely a middle ground.

(jk jk. go ahead and edit this too, if you want.)
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Old 03-09-2011, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Scottwax
The dyno sheet from the 3.5 Altima shows smaller losses than that and bigger gains past 3800 rpms.

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/eng...-vs-stock.html
I'm pretty sure sparks has seen that dyno .. and has his opinions on it
Originally Posted by Scottwax
What I really noticed in my 4AT was that immediately after the install, my car stopped shifting automatically at 6100-ish and would let the engine run to 6500 rpms before shifting which made it easier to take advantage the higher rpm power.
I believe this is attributed to the method in which Aaron suggests to, for lack of a better term, "remap" the vacuum and solenoid "connections". Mine showed no different shift patterns when I did this, as I kept everything the way it was from the factory.

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Old 03-09-2011, 04:26 PM
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I'm seeing around 15-20wtq here. Maybe I'm blind

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Old 03-09-2011, 04:29 PM
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And I'll say this one more time for clarification if it's not extremely obvious already from my previous posts. I believe the gains from vias delete FAR outweigh the losses and ran that setup for 2 years until I made the custom IM. Guess I just get tired of all the "I felt no low end losses at all!" comments because the butt dyno is so inaccurate.
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Old 03-09-2011, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by sparks03max
And I'll say this one more time for clarification if it's not extremely obvious already from my previous posts. I believe the gains from vias delete FAR outweigh the losses and ran that setup for 2 years until I made the custom IM. Guess I just get tired of all the "I felt no low end losses at all!" comments because the butt dyno is so inaccurate.
I felt no low end losses. But then, I also own a Sprint Booster, so I don't have any credibility.
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Old 03-09-2011, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by sparks03max
I'm seeing around 15-20wtq here. Maybe I'm blind
Right, his dyno sheet shows a 16 lf-ft loss at one point between the VIAS and the block plate, but not the 20-30 you said-but as much as you dyno your car, you may have hard data to show that in your particular case, the loss was that much. Unfortunately, that dyno sheet is the only one I've seen with a direct comparison so that's all I have to go on.

It is noticeable to a certain degree, mostly when you get on it at the few speeds where even with a downshift you are still in the 2800-3800 rpm range. Mentioned that when I got the block plate but like you, I feel the top end gains from 3800-6500 (or higher if you have the reflash) are worth the loss through a 1000 rpm range. Also agree that the torque loss makes the gains above 3800 rpm seem even greater than they are.

When I had my Chevelle, I rebuilt the engine and put in a 292 Magnum Comp Cam. I knew it was worthless below 3500 or so but I figured with 4.11s I'd be okay. Problem was I had a 2800 stall converter so in 1st gear, there was a pretty big lag between 2800-3500 or so, but then all hell broke lose-I'd seen dyno sheets showing gains of just over 100 hp from 3000-4500 rpm and the lag made it feel like even more. You think the transition between losses from the block plate to the gains is noticeable, try a 100+ gain! Had to swap out the 2800 stall with a 4000 stall to get my car to run right.
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Old 03-10-2011, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by sparks03max
I'm seeing around 15-20wtq here. Maybe I'm blind

which one is the BOP
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Old 03-10-2011, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Sneaky Green
which one is the BOP
The red line
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Old 03-10-2011, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Scottwax
The red line
did you get yours yet scott I know we have the same exact car dam near.

Mines is stock
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Old 03-10-2011, 06:58 AM
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What is the blue line?
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Old 03-10-2011, 07:04 AM
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@ Scott- I stand corrected.

@ Rochester- Thanks for the clarification.
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Old 03-10-2011, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Sneaky Green
did you get yours yet scott
Read the thread. I know it's hard, but you can do it. Sound out the words if you have to.
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Old 03-10-2011, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Read the thread. I know it's hard, but you can do it. Sound out the words if you have to.
Did you read it Rochester


Originally Posted by Sneaky Green
I'm ordering my megan catback and my berk intake this week. After reading this rochester I will have all but (spacers, crank pulley, flywheel). Which should I go to next with I/H/E?



100 Posts so the saga begins
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Old 03-10-2011, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Sneaky Green
Did you read it Rochester
You say you read it, but I've occasionally had a sneaking suspicion that you don't read the threads you enter, just post your question at the end and wait for spoonfeed response.
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Old 03-10-2011, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by sparks03max
You say you read it, but I've occasionally had a sneaking suspicion that you don't read the threads you enter, just post your question at the end and wait for spoonfeed response.
You know too much sparks. Time to
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Old 03-10-2011, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
The VIAS-delete mod is more appropriate when complimented with other modifications that compensate for the low-end loss (spacers, crank pulley, flywheel), and to justify the high-end gain (exhaust, intake)... but that's cool you're enjoying the BOP.

I wasn't aware there was a mileage drop, that's interesting. I haven't looked at my mileage in a while. Maybe I should. Also wasn't aware gains could be measured by street racing a full-sized truck. I should try that.

Welcome aboard, exandr. IN BOLD FONT, no less. Always in bold...
I have auto and I do feel slight low end torque loss causing me to sometimes dip my foot into it a little bit more after I got VIAS delete. But my buddy that has same mods and IM spacer says that makes it all back and then some. So your probably right, IM spacer would be a good complimentary mod. Especially for most of us....low end torque is where we drive.
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Old 04-17-2011, 03:40 PM
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After having my VAIS block plate on for over a year, I put the VAIS assembly back on. I have a 4AT, and I really noticed the power/torque loss below 4000rpm. Anyway, having it back on makes a night and day difference for everyday driving. I love it with the VAIS in there. If I had a 6spd, I'd probably be more likely to leave the block plate on, but with my auto (spending 98% of the time below 4500rpm) it's WAY nicer to have a functional VAIS assembly. While the top end power increase was awesome with the BP, I absolutely hated the dead spot below ~4000rpm. After over a year of driving with each setup, I've decided its a VAIS intake for me! (with spacers of course)
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Old 04-17-2011, 05:25 PM
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Different transmissions, different values in daily driving, different value assessment overall. The best thing about the BOP is how easily you can revert it to stock...

...and then back again, if you ever get the itch.

Good for you, jowo9.
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Old 04-17-2011, 10:45 PM
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I've been running mine for about a month, and although the torque loss below 4K was definitely noticeable, its not so much to get upset about. Especially considering the top end gains. I did the block off plate and GAB around the same time. I literally shaved 3 tenths off my best 1/4 and gained 2 mph in my trap. That's with nowhere near perfect conditions or any cool downs. I think I could likely drop another tenth if I went back and tried on a cooler night. My driving style is mostly either putting around using 10% of the gas pedal or smashing it 100% to pass someone or accelerate. The midrange is rewarding but also a big gas waster when 95% of the time its senseless.

Overall, I'm very impressed with the VIAS block off and how much power up top is gained.
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Old 07-02-2011, 07:45 AM
  #320  
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Location: Rochester, NY
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Today I replaced the zinc-plated bolts that came with the BOP. They were getting a little corroded over the last year. The new bolts (M8x20mm 1.25 thread) are polished titanium, allenhead button-caps from DressUpBolts.com. I think they look great with NWP's Premium Block-off Plate. It's definitely a more flushed and finished look.



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