Who has a NWP VIAS block plate on their 5.5 gen?
03-20-2010, 07:17 AM
#201
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The temperature when I ran the 14.4@98 was around 49-53 degrees. I did a total of 11 runs that day because no one was at the track and I actually had trouble hooking up. Last night was the opposite. It was 53 degrees when I made my second pass (I was only able to do two). It seemed as if all of the low end power had vanished. Even slipping the clutch and gunning it from 2800rpm produced a terrible bog.
I did not unplug the battery, so I'll try that out today, but to say the least I was very disappointed with how the car was acting. A 6-speed 3.5 Maxima should trap better than 96 especially when my lowest trap last time was 97.02mph. Maybe the engine was heat soaked from waiting in the huge line to run or something, who knows.
I did not unplug the battery, so I'll try that out today, but to say the least I was very disappointed with how the car was acting. A 6-speed 3.5 Maxima should trap better than 96 especially when my lowest trap last time was 97.02mph. Maybe the engine was heat soaked from waiting in the huge line to run or something, who knows.
The reason they are asking for temps on EACH DAY, not just one day, is to compare the runs directly. You can't compare them whatsoever without reference points in temp, barometric pressure, and humidity.
03-20-2010, 07:24 AM
#202
I put on the NWP block plate and my car got slower than before. I ran 14.4@98 with the stock IM and with the plate I could do no better than a 14.8@96.
Now some of that might add up to poor driving, but the car actually feels slower than it did before. Do you need to unplug the battery and stuff too for this? I'm about to remove it after I give the track one more try.
Now some of that might add up to poor driving, but the car actually feels slower than it did before. Do you need to unplug the battery and stuff too for this? I'm about to remove it after I give the track one more try.
03-20-2010, 07:35 AM
#203
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I believe my best stock was around a 14.3@98
He still isn't comparing both days properly. You can't just go to the track and get your times, then directly compare them to times at that same track in different conditions. N/A cars can gain 20+ whp just from a 20-30F temp drop... especially our cars in stock form with all the extra timing you get in colder weather.
03-20-2010, 07:47 AM
#204
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 40
Most will run mid/high 14s unless the DA (density altitude) is high, or they're at a high altitude in the first place.
I believe my best stock was around a 14.3@98
He still isn't comparing both days properly. You can't just go to the track and get your times, then directly compare them to times at that same track in different conditions. N/A cars can gain 20+ whp just from a 20-30F temp drop... especially our cars in stock form with all the extra timing you get in colder weather.
I believe my best stock was around a 14.3@98
He still isn't comparing both days properly. You can't just go to the track and get your times, then directly compare them to times at that same track in different conditions. N/A cars can gain 20+ whp just from a 20-30F temp drop... especially our cars in stock form with all the extra timing you get in colder weather.
The only mods now are a short ram intake and the block off plate. I haven't grounded the knock sensor or anything yet either.
03-20-2010, 07:53 AM
#205
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Yeah I understand that. 55 degrees and 47% humidity last night during my two runs. The 14.4@98 runs two weeks ago 48 degrees and 45% humidity. I would expect power losses at higher temperatures, but the car felt pretty terrible last night even under normal driving circumstances.
The only mods now are a short ram intake and the block off plate. I haven't grounded the knock sensor or anything yet either.
The only mods now are a short ram intake and the block off plate. I haven't grounded the knock sensor or anything yet either.
03-20-2010, 08:07 AM
#206
Get a more efficient exhaust setup and/or spacers, and try it with and without the VIAS. Heck, if you're at the track a lot, pop it on/off between runs and really compare apples 2 apples.
03-20-2010, 08:16 AM
#207
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In order to compare "apples to apples" from different track days at the SAME track, this is the best method (imo):
1. Keep your time slips. Hopefully the date/time will be correct on them. If it's not correct, write down the exact date/time on the slips as you get them, and write down tire pressure, how much gas (or race weight would be best) for the closest comparison.
2. Go to Dragtimes DA Calculator and plug in your track and your date/time, and it will pull up weather data pulled from that track on that day/time to calculate DA, then correct your time and write it down on the slip with a notation like "Corrected: XX.X@XXX", taken from the "stock and mildly modified NA" line.
3. Compare corrected values only. This gives a pretty close comparison without having to do all your testing on the same day. Make sure to keep race weight and tire pressure in consideration. You can only compare ETs on runs with pretty much identical '60 foots.
The most important thing to remember is that this ONLY applies at the same track. Every track is different.
1. Keep your time slips. Hopefully the date/time will be correct on them. If it's not correct, write down the exact date/time on the slips as you get them, and write down tire pressure, how much gas (or race weight would be best) for the closest comparison.
2. Go to Dragtimes DA Calculator and plug in your track and your date/time, and it will pull up weather data pulled from that track on that day/time to calculate DA, then correct your time and write it down on the slip with a notation like "Corrected: XX.X@XXX", taken from the "stock and mildly modified NA" line.
3. Compare corrected values only. This gives a pretty close comparison without having to do all your testing on the same day. Make sure to keep race weight and tire pressure in consideration. You can only compare ETs on runs with pretty much identical '60 foots.
The most important thing to remember is that this ONLY applies at the same track. Every track is different.
03-20-2010, 09:03 AM
#208
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 40
Some are happily experiencing otherwise, but I was under the impression the VIAS-delete wasn't ideal if your only mods are a SRI. So I'm not shocked if the VIAS-delete is the reason for your power loss or slower times.
Get a more efficient exhaust setup and/or spacers, and try it with and without the VIAS. Heck, if you're at the track a lot, pop it on/off between runs and really compare apples 2 apples.
Get a more efficient exhaust setup and/or spacers, and try it with and without the VIAS. Heck, if you're at the track a lot, pop it on/off between runs and really compare apples 2 apples.
I'm about to take it back off until I some get some more mods I guess. I kind of liked the VQ's mid-range and prominent low end, but it seems like I've lost that considerably. Now it feels like the old days when I'm sitting there waiting for VTEC to engage.
In order to compare "apples to apples" from different track days at the SAME track, this is the best method (imo):
1. Keep your time slips. Hopefully the date/time will be correct on them. If it's not correct, write down the exact date/time on the slips as you get them, and write down tire pressure, how much gas (or race weight would be best) for the closest comparison.
2. Go to Dragtimes DA Calculator and plug in your track and your date/time, and it will pull up weather data pulled from that track on that day/time to calculate DA, then correct your time and write it down on the slip with a notation like "Corrected: XX.X@XXX", taken from the "stock and mildly modified NA" line.
3. Compare corrected values only. This gives a pretty close comparison without having to do all your testing on the same day. Make sure to keep race weight and tire pressure in consideration. You can only compare ETs on runs with pretty much identical '60 foots.
The most important thing to remember is that this ONLY applies at the same track. Every track is different.
1. Keep your time slips. Hopefully the date/time will be correct on them. If it's not correct, write down the exact date/time on the slips as you get them, and write down tire pressure, how much gas (or race weight would be best) for the closest comparison.
2. Go to Dragtimes DA Calculator and plug in your track and your date/time, and it will pull up weather data pulled from that track on that day/time to calculate DA, then correct your time and write it down on the slip with a notation like "Corrected: XX.X@XXX", taken from the "stock and mildly modified NA" line.
3. Compare corrected values only. This gives a pretty close comparison without having to do all your testing on the same day. Make sure to keep race weight and tire pressure in consideration. You can only compare ETs on runs with pretty much identical '60 foots.
The most important thing to remember is that this ONLY applies at the same track. Every track is different.
03-20-2010, 09:16 AM
#209
03-20-2010, 09:26 AM
#210
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 40
I figured that with a higher rpm launch if the tires could handle it, I could do a 14 flat easy. I should've tried that before I put in the plate.
05-03-2010, 11:40 AM
#211
So I started this thread in October, 2009. Winter was around the corner, which made this a research-only project. Lots of good discussion came about here, and I became convinced this was a mod worth pursuing.
It's now May, 2010; a full 7 months later, and I just now ordered the VIAS-Delete Block-off Plate from NWP. Unfortunately, Aaron is back-ordered on the $60 polished plate, so I'm not expecting it for another 3 or 4 weeks. I could have gone with the less expensive one, but that polished plate is so damn pretty. Meh, it's only money.
More on this next month.
It's now May, 2010; a full 7 months later, and I just now ordered the VIAS-Delete Block-off Plate from NWP. Unfortunately, Aaron is back-ordered on the $60 polished plate, so I'm not expecting it for another 3 or 4 weeks. I could have gone with the less expensive one, but that polished plate is so damn pretty. Meh, it's only money.
More on this next month.
05-03-2010, 12:31 PM
#213
So I started this thread in October, 2009. Winter was around the corner, which made this a research-only project. Lots of good discussion came about here, and I became convinced this was a mod worth pursuing.
It's now May, 2010; a full 7 months later, and I just now ordered the VIAS-Delete Block-off Plate from NWP. Unfortunately, Aaron is back-ordered on the $60 polished plate, so I'm not expecting it for another 3 or 4 weeks. I could have gone with the less expensive one, but that polished plate is so damn pretty. Meh, it's only money.
More on this next month.
It's now May, 2010; a full 7 months later, and I just now ordered the VIAS-Delete Block-off Plate from NWP. Unfortunately, Aaron is back-ordered on the $60 polished plate, so I'm not expecting it for another 3 or 4 weeks. I could have gone with the less expensive one, but that polished plate is so damn pretty. Meh, it's only money.
More on this next month.
05-03-2010, 12:33 PM
#214
Sensitive, much? All I said was it's worth the extra $20 to me for the more attractive plate.That was so silly.
05-03-2010, 01:14 PM
#215
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: London, ON, Canada
Posts: 595
Yeah srsly, who cares what Rochester decides to do with his $... its only $20 in the end.
I agree, it does look nicer, but I also agree with some other ppl, I wouldn't spend $20 more, I don't care what it looks like.
Put a block plate on a buddy's car this weekend, feels awesome now throughout the entire RPM range!
I agree, it does look nicer, but I also agree with some other ppl, I wouldn't spend $20 more, I don't care what it looks like.
Put a block plate on a buddy's car this weekend, feels awesome now throughout the entire RPM range!
05-03-2010, 01:25 PM
#216
Thanks, Craig.
A year ago, it never would have crossed my mind to spend a penny on bling under the hood. I blame Racingline Performance. They sent me their battery tie down for free because I waited so long for their FSTB production to gear up again. It set a precedent.
Aaron is working on a diamond-encrusted BOP with his logo in gold plate. But I put my foot down firm. No diamonds.
A year ago, it never would have crossed my mind to spend a penny on bling under the hood. I blame Racingline Performance. They sent me their battery tie down for free because I waited so long for their FSTB production to gear up again. It set a precedent.
Aaron is working on a diamond-encrusted BOP with his logo in gold plate. But I put my foot down firm. No diamonds.
05-03-2010, 01:34 PM
#217
LOL Nice you finally decided to order it John, that was a long time ago you started researching it. Good call on the polished plate! I have one too and the raised logo looks real nice. Dont let those engraved plate player haters bring you down bro hahaha I have the diamond encrusted plate on back order. Im going to install that with my platinum headers and gold intake spacers and 24" chrome rims its going to be dope boi yea hahahaha
05-03-2010, 01:35 PM
#218
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: London, ON, Canada
Posts: 595
Thanks, Craig.
A year ago, it never would have crossed my mind to spend a penny on bling under the hood. I blame Racingline Performance. They sent me their battery tie down for free because I waited so long for their FSTB production to gear up again. It set a precedent.
Aaron is working on a diamond-encrusted BOP with his logo in gold plate. But I put my foot down firm. No diamonds.
A year ago, it never would have crossed my mind to spend a penny on bling under the hood. I blame Racingline Performance. They sent me their battery tie down for free because I waited so long for their FSTB production to gear up again. It set a precedent.
Aaron is working on a diamond-encrusted BOP with his logo in gold plate. But I put my foot down firm. No diamonds.
(Dave Chappelle reference)
Actually, I used to go for bling under my hood, but now I just like what the stuff does. I still like when things look nice, but my engine is stock, and has probably never had a thorough cleaning its entire life. But it runs great, so I'm just gonna keep the hood closed whenever possible
05-03-2010, 01:46 PM
#219
yea your a tad off on the times... 14.2-14.5 is average for a stock 6spd... 15.0 is probebly more average for an auto
05-03-2010, 01:47 PM
#220
And there it is. I said it. Let the hating begin.
05-03-2010, 01:52 PM
#222
GREAT IDEA! But Im pretty sure once you get the engine cover back on you can't see the vacuum cap...
I took that stupid cap off my battery terminal. It wont stay on by itself so it needs a zip tie, problem is every time I boost somebody I have to cut off the tie... so I just left it off now.
But I just got a crazy idea let me know what you think of this:
Use a red paint marker along the edge of the plate on the sides, now that will be eye catching and will work great with your red accent theme!
I took that stupid cap off my battery terminal. It wont stay on by itself so it needs a zip tie, problem is every time I boost somebody I have to cut off the tie... so I just left it off now.
But I just got a crazy idea let me know what you think of this:
Use a red paint marker along the edge of the plate on the sides, now that will be eye catching and will work great with your red accent theme!
05-03-2010, 01:52 PM
#223
05-03-2010, 01:55 PM
#224
05-03-2010, 01:58 PM
#225
Wait...! What would be really cool is if there were an 1/8" channel around the center of the edge. Then you could paint inside that channel to suit your color scheme. Ouch! Brain fart.
05-03-2010, 02:05 PM
#226
I was pretty sure the cover hid the cap, Ill check it out later today. as for the red stripe I was joking... u were joking about the red cap right? or if ur serious thats cool too hahahaha
05-03-2010, 02:12 PM
#227
No joke. I want a red vacuum cap.
And the groove in the BOP edge...? Serious about that, too. At least, at this moment in time. Ask me tomorrow, and I might say otherwise.
And the groove in the BOP edge...? Serious about that, too. At least, at this moment in time. Ask me tomorrow, and I might say otherwise.
05-03-2010, 03:22 PM
#228
I dont know really if a red cap would look good, but if you did a stripe on the plate that might actually look good. Just use heat resistant paint bc that b1tch gets real hot
05-03-2010, 04:26 PM
#230
05-03-2010, 04:56 PM
#231
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 399
Yes....the engine cover does hide the cap on the solenoid nipple......this is the correct way to install the plate via NWP instructions.....I have seen that some people will plug the nipple on the front of the manifold....adjacent to the block plate (not covered by engined cover) as well....even though the instructions indicate to leave that one alone....I believe that this is the one Rochester is referring to....
05-03-2010, 05:01 PM
#232
I didn't have the NWP plate but I removed my butterfly valve and made a plate before NWP came out with them and honestly I wouldn't do it again. I felt a loss on low rpm torque and the gain up top was very minimal I couldn't even barely notice it, now I have the SSIM which is the manifold completely gutted out and I like it a lot better although there are many that disagree with it. But it's a mod of the past now it seems like, but it helped get the first 12 second N/A Maxima where he was at and many others so I still believe in it.
05-03-2010, 05:04 PM
#233
Yes....the engine cover does hide the cap on the solenoid nipple......this is the correct way to install the plate via NWP instructions.....I have seen that some people will plug the nipple on the front of the manifold....adjacent to the block plate (not covered by engined cover) as well....even though the instructions indicate to leave that one alone....I believe that this is the one Rochester is referring to....
I get that, Scott. What I don't get is why you keep saying it.
05-04-2010, 12:28 PM
#235
One day later, and I'm backpedaling the whole pimp-your-bop theme. 
The plate is actually beveled, so grinding a groove down the edge is a non-starter. And a little bit of research leads me to abandon getting the vacuum caps in red. (Although blue seems to be an option. Go figure.)
It was a momentary diversion of silliness. I'm done, and I just want the plate, now.
The plate is actually beveled, so grinding a groove down the edge is a non-starter. And a little bit of research leads me to abandon getting the vacuum caps in red. (Although blue seems to be an option. Go figure.)
It was a momentary diversion of silliness. I'm done, and I just want the plate, now.
05-05-2010, 05:41 AM
#238
05-05-2010, 03:16 PM
#240
I went with the unpolished BOP, although I did want the polished one but it would look completely out of place in an engine bay coated with oil and rustproofing.
I totally respect engine bling, I love polishing the outside of my car and the results I get from that, I imagine the motives are the same beneath the hood.
I totally respect engine bling, I love polishing the outside of my car and the results I get from that, I imagine the motives are the same beneath the hood.