It depends greatly on temperatures... I can guarantee you were it 90f out, you would be even slower.

The reason they are asking for temps on EACH DAY, not just one day, is to compare the runs directly. You can't compare them whatsoever without reference points in temp, barometric pressure, and humidity.

 

No mods in your sig, so there's no assessment on what the VIAS-delete is working with. I don't track, but the common times for a stock 5.5 6MT would be 15.0. Better with good conditions and a good hookup. Someone correct me if that opinion is off.

 

Most will run mid/high 14s unless the DA (density altitude) is high, or they're at a high altitude in the first place.

I believe my best stock was around a 14.3@98

He still isn't comparing both days properly. You can't just go to the track and get your times, then directly compare them to times at that same track in different conditions. N/A cars can gain 20+ whp just from a 20-30F temp drop... especially our cars in stock form with all the extra timing you get in colder weather.

 

Yeah I understand that. 55 degrees and 47% humidity last night during my two runs. The 14.4@98 runs two weeks ago 48 degrees and 45% humidity. I would expect power losses at higher temperatures, but the car felt pretty terrible last night even under normal driving circumstances.

The only mods now are a short ram intake and the block off plate. I haven't grounded the knock sensor or anything yet either.

 

Maybe you have something else wrong with your car... but 1-2MPH would be an expected difference between 55 and 48 degrees... and we aren't even including pressure into the mix, which is equally important.

 

Some are happily experiencing otherwise, but I was under the impression the VIAS-delete wasn't ideal if your only mods are a SRI. So I'm not shocked if the VIAS-delete is the reason for your power loss or slower times.

Get a more efficient exhaust setup and/or spacers, and try it with and without the VIAS. Heck, if you're at the track a lot, pop it on/off between runs and really compare apples 2 apples.

 

In order to compare "apples to apples" from different track days at the SAME track, this is the best method (imo):

1. Keep your time slips. Hopefully the date/time will be correct on them. If it's not correct, write down the exact date/time on the slips as you get them, and write down tire pressure, how much gas (or race weight would be best) for the closest comparison.

2. Go to Dragtimes DA Calculator and plug in your track and your date/time, and it will pull up weather data pulled from that track on that day/time to calculate DA, then correct your time and write it down on the slip with a notation like "Corrected: XX.X@XXX", taken from the "stock and mildly modified NA" line.

3. Compare corrected values only. This gives a pretty close comparison without having to do all your testing on the same day. Make sure to keep race weight and tire pressure in consideration. You can only compare ETs on runs with pretty much identical '60 foots.

The most important thing to remember is that this ONLY applies at the same track. Every track is different.

 

I've driven it around for about an hour after another battery reset. There's no CEL, but it kind of reminds me of my old Honda's with the way the power is acting. Its not pulling from 1500-4500rpm like it used to. Seems like its pretty decent at 4500rpm and up, but again it feels like I'm driving my old TL Type S when there's a sudden increase in power after 4500rpm.

I'm about to take it back off until I some get some more mods I guess. I kind of liked the VQ's mid-range and prominent low end, but it seems like I've lost that considerably. Now it feels like the old days when I'm sitting there waiting for VTEC to engage.

Will do. I was going to try it again at Tri-State today for Test and Tune, but the USPS has screwed up my mail! Hard to race when your paycheck arrival has been delayed by seven days due to an address change.

 

Could be the torque converter in an automatic helps minimize the 10-12 hp you lose in the low end with the block plate.

 

Maybe. A friend made that same point. With the VIAS still in the car, it was nearly impossible to avoid doing a burnout without easing into the clutch at 1800rpm. That's how I ran the 14.4@98.

I figured that with a higher rpm launch if the tires could handle it, I could do a 14 flat easy. I should've tried that before I put in the plate.

 

So I started this thread in October, 2009. Winter was around the corner, which made this a research-only project. Lots of good discussion came about here, and I became convinced this was a mod worth pursuing.

It's now May, 2010; a full 7 months later, and I just now ordered the VIAS-Delete Block-off Plate from NWP. Unfortunately, Aaron is back-ordered on the $60 polished plate, so I'm not expecting it for another 3 or 4 weeks. I could have gone with the less expensive one, but that polished plate is so damn pretty. Meh, it's only money.

More on this next month.

 

Engraved plate looks perfectly fine on my car.

 

As the old 'rodders say, "Chrome (polished) won't get you home." Like ScottWax I'm perfectly satisfied with the operation of my engraved plate.

 

Dudes... Sensitive, much? All I said was it's worth the extra $20 to me for the more attractive plate.

That was so silly.

 

Yeah srsly, who cares what Rochester decides to do with his $... its only $20 in the end.

I agree, it does look nicer, but I also agree with some other ppl, I wouldn't spend $20 more, I don't care what it looks like.

Put a block plate on a buddy's car this weekend, feels awesome now throughout the entire RPM range!

 

Thanks, Craig.

A year ago, it never would have crossed my mind to spend a penny on bling under the hood. I blame Racingline Performance. They sent me their battery tie down for free because I waited so long for their FSTB production to gear up again. It set a precedent.

Aaron is working on a diamond-encrusted BOP with his logo in gold plate. But I put my foot down firm. No diamonds.

 

LOL Nice you finally decided to order it John, that was a long time ago you started researching it. Good call on the polished plate! I have one too and the raised logo looks real nice. Dont let those engraved plate player haters bring you down bro hahaha I have the diamond encrusted plate on back order. Im going to install that with my platinum headers and gold intake spacers and 24" chrome rims its going to be dope boi yea hahahaha

 

LOL good... You'd have diamonds in your dookie if you bought that!
(Dave Chappelle reference)

Actually, I used to go for bling under my hood, but now I just like what the stuff does. I still like when things look nice, but my engine is stock, and has probably never had a thorough cleaning its entire life. But it runs great, so I'm just gonna keep the hood closed whenever possible

 

yea your a tad off on the times... 14.2-14.5 is average for a stock 6spd... 15.0 is probebly more average for an auto

 

OK, Nick, since you got my back on the $60 plate... here's an idea that goes out on the bling limb a little bit. My battery's positive terminal has a red cap, and my engine cover burger has the NISSAN letters in red. I was thinking the vacuum cap at the end of the IM should be red, too. You know, just a little dot of red to draw the eye to the upper IM and the block plate, to accent that there's something modded going on there.

And there it is. I said it. Let the hating begin.

 

did you make the emblem red or it came like that?

 

GREAT IDEA! But Im pretty sure once you get the engine cover back on you can't see the vacuum cap...

I took that stupid cap off my battery terminal. It wont stay on by itself so it needs a zip tie, problem is every time I boost somebody I have to cut off the tie... so I just left it off now.

But I just got a crazy idea let me know what you think of this:
Use a red paint marker along the edge of the plate on the sides, now that will be eye catching and will work great with your red accent theme!

 

That's why I said, "Better with good conditions and a good hookup." But you know, I defer that expertise to you track guys.

 

I went to replace the original burger because it was all flaky after 7 years of heat. Before putting the new one on, I painted the lettering. It looks awesome that way.

 

Actually, you can see it quite plainly. Go out to your car and pop the hood.

Not so crazy. But not the whole edge, just a pinstripe, maybe. And it would have to be perfect, otherwise it would look wrong.

Wait...! What would be really cool is if there were an 1/8" channel around the center of the edge. Then you could paint inside that channel to suit your color scheme. Ouch! Brain fart.

 

I was pretty sure the cover hid the cap, Ill check it out later today. as for the red stripe I was joking... u were joking about the red cap right? or if ur serious thats cool too hahahaha

 

No joke. I want a red vacuum cap.

And the groove in the BOP edge...? Serious about that, too. At least, at this moment in time. Ask me tomorrow, and I might say otherwise.

 

jeez John I didnt know you were into all that cosmetic modding??

I dont know really if a red cap would look good, but if you did a stripe on the plate that might actually look good. Just use heat resistant paint bc that b1tch gets real hot

 

Diamonds in the soles of her shoes. - Paul Simon.

Gettin' a little carried away here? Best try the plate out to see if you like it b4 you go pimpn' it out, no?

 

Just saying the engraved one is attractive enough for me.

 

Yes....the engine cover does hide the cap on the solenoid nipple......this is the correct way to install the plate via NWP instructions.....I have seen that some people will plug the nipple on the front of the manifold....adjacent to the block plate (not covered by engined cover) as well....even though the instructions indicate to leave that one alone....I believe that this is the one Rochester is referring to....

 

I didn't have the NWP plate but I removed my butterfly valve and made a plate before NWP came out with them and honestly I wouldn't do it again. I felt a loss on low rpm torque and the gain up top was very minimal I couldn't even barely notice it, now I have the SSIM which is the manifold completely gutted out and I like it a lot better although there are many that disagree with it. But it's a mod of the past now it seems like, but it helped get the first 12 second N/A Maxima where he was at and many others so I still believe in it.

 

Correct and correct. If I like the VIAS-delete mod, then I'm also deleting the vacuum canister, and simply plugging the IM vacuum lead and the 2 hose connectors on the switch.


I get that, Scott. What I don't get is why you keep saying it.


Spock, you're right about not pimping the BOP until I'm sure I like it. "Pimping the BOP"... there's a Maxus t-shirt right there.

 

I can visualize a new hip hop tune...pimp my bop, boop chumpa whoomp, pullin' 13's all over town, fightin' off the ladies just to get on down, boop chumpa whoomp...

 

One day later, and I'm backpedaling the whole pimp-your-bop theme.

The plate is actually beveled, so grinding a groove down the edge is a non-starter. And a little bit of research leads me to abandon getting the vacuum caps in red. (Although blue seems to be an option. Go figure.)

It was a momentary diversion of silliness. I'm done, and I just want the plate, now.

 

I'm perfectly satisfied with my polished plate

 

Because you are so cute when you get mad.

 

Aw, shucks.

I'll bump this again at the end of the month with pictures and reviews. While BOP discussions are becoming the proverbial beating of a dead-horse, I started this thread, so I should bring it full circle.

 

did you record the song yet? bop bop bop lol

 

I went with the unpolished BOP, although I did want the polished one but it would look completely out of place in an engine bay coated with oil and rustproofing.

I totally respect engine bling, I love polishing the outside of my car and the results I get from that, I imagine the motives are the same beneath the hood.