APEXi S-AFC vs. V-AFC vs. V-AFC II
#41
All you have to do is remove the fans, and the UIM. Put the car on a lift, remove the Y-pipe (disconnect all the O2s first).
Then remove the front manifolds, and then remove the rear motor mount and shift rods, then swing the motor slightly forward to remove the rear manifolds.
Install headers/downpipe, notch crossmember enough to clear the flex section depending on the brand. Reassemble crossmember, fans, rear motor mount, shift linkage.
Reinstall O2 sensors, reconnect to the harnesses, hook a dual output O2 simulator up.
Reinstall UIM. So worth it.
#42
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Labor...? Aw, c'mon.
All you have to do is remove the fans, and the UIM. Put the car on a lift, remove the Y-pipe (disconnect all the O2s first).
Then remove the front manifolds, and then remove the rear motor mount and shift rods, then swing the motor slightly forward to remove the rear manifolds.
Install headers/downpipe, notch crossmember enough to clear the flex section depending on the brand. Reassemble crossmember, fans, rear motor mount, shift linkage.
Reinstall O2 sensors, reconnect to the harnesses, hook a dual output O2 simulator up.
Reinstall UIM. So worth it.
All you have to do is remove the fans, and the UIM. Put the car on a lift, remove the Y-pipe (disconnect all the O2s first).
Then remove the front manifolds, and then remove the rear motor mount and shift rods, then swing the motor slightly forward to remove the rear manifolds.
Install headers/downpipe, notch crossmember enough to clear the flex section depending on the brand. Reassemble crossmember, fans, rear motor mount, shift linkage.
Reinstall O2 sensors, reconnect to the harnesses, hook a dual output O2 simulator up.
Reinstall UIM. So worth it.
But my headers also fit perfectly
#43
Honestly I feel like I need to go to school to understand the spreadsheet and how to tune it properly.
Interesting. I just always hear about 6-8 hours, and the only headers I see at the moment are those Obx version pain in the butt. I wish Cattman would have some in stock.
Also With headers I would still need a tune, so in the end i would need some sort of piggy back or ecu (technosquare)
Correct me if I am wrong..
#44
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Honestly I feel like I need to go to school to understand the spreadsheet and how to tune it properly.
Interesting. I just always hear about 6-8 hours, and the only headers I see at the moment are those Obx version pain in the butt. I wish Cattman would have some in stock.
Also With headers I would still need a tune, so in the end i would need some sort of piggy back or ecu (technosquare)
Correct me if I am wrong..
Interesting. I just always hear about 6-8 hours, and the only headers I see at the moment are those Obx version pain in the butt. I wish Cattman would have some in stock.
Also With headers I would still need a tune, so in the end i would need some sort of piggy back or ecu (technosquare)
Correct me if I am wrong..
#45
Honestly I feel like I need to go to school to understand the spreadsheet and how to tune it properly.
Interesting. I just always hear about 6-8 hours, and the only headers I see at the moment are those Obx version pain in the butt. I wish Cattman would have some in stock.
Also With headers I would still need a tune, so in the end i would need some sort of piggy back or ecu (technosquare)
Correct me if I am wrong..
Interesting. I just always hear about 6-8 hours, and the only headers I see at the moment are those Obx version pain in the butt. I wish Cattman would have some in stock.
Also With headers I would still need a tune, so in the end i would need some sort of piggy back or ecu (technosquare)
Correct me if I am wrong..
If you're gonna go with Technosquare, you may still wanna squeeze maximum power out by piggybacking it with a V/SAFC.
However, Technosquare is pretty tight because if you wanna do SSIM, you can have TS remap the VTCs (variable camshaft timing) to the specs of the 350Z for major major gains throughout the midrange. Win
TS + VAFC2 + Innovate LM-1 wideband + RPM converter (for datalogging) would be FTW.
#46
Labor...? Aw, c'mon.
All you have to do is remove the fans, and the UIM. Put the car on a lift, remove the Y-pipe (disconnect all the O2s first).
Then remove the front manifolds, and then remove the rear motor mount and shift rods, then swing the motor slightly forward to remove the rear manifolds.
Install headers/downpipe, notch crossmember enough to clear the flex section depending on the brand. Reassemble crossmember, fans, rear motor mount, shift linkage.
Reinstall O2 sensors, reconnect to the harnesses, hook a dual output O2 simulator up.
Reinstall UIM. So worth it.
All you have to do is remove the fans, and the UIM. Put the car on a lift, remove the Y-pipe (disconnect all the O2s first).
Then remove the front manifolds, and then remove the rear motor mount and shift rods, then swing the motor slightly forward to remove the rear manifolds.
Install headers/downpipe, notch crossmember enough to clear the flex section depending on the brand. Reassemble crossmember, fans, rear motor mount, shift linkage.
Reinstall O2 sensors, reconnect to the harnesses, hook a dual output O2 simulator up.
Reinstall UIM. So worth it.
Did you install Cattman or another brand? Because if it was obx, I would be modifying your version headers(00-01) to fit my vehicle (02-03) so there may be more involved.
also, what was your grand total and how did you tune?
and any cels?
Sorry lol Im getting amped up about moaaarrr powwaaa
#47
got ya.
Nitrous is a thought, just not on a daily driver. I have messed with it before and it just puts to much instant strain on drivetrain components. (Had it on my Fox body)
And Moncef thanks for your input as well.
that combo on the bottom would be killer both on the streets and in my pocket lol.
Nitrous is a thought, just not on a daily driver. I have messed with it before and it just puts to much instant strain on drivetrain components. (Had it on my Fox body)
And Moncef thanks for your input as well.
that combo on the bottom would be killer both on the streets and in my pocket lol.
#48
Did you install Cattman or another brand? Because if it was obx, I would be modifying your version headers(00-01) to fit my vehicle (02-03) so there may be more involved.
also, what was your grand total and how did you tune?
and any cels?
Sorry lol Im getting amped up about moaaarrr powwaaa
also, what was your grand total and how did you tune?
and any cels?
Sorry lol Im getting amped up about moaaarrr powwaaa
For my entire exhaust...
- Headers - $380
- Test Pipe - $50
- Cattman cat-back - $4xx
- e-Manage Ultimate + PnP Harness - $6xx
- Dual output O2 sim (defective ) - $40
So, quite a bit... worth it though, especially since there's a lot of power to be unlocked through controlling the ignition timing on the VQ cars.
Tuned on the street, had the AFR harness hooked up to my e-Manage so the AEM shot the AFR signal directly to the e-Manage and my laptop.
My SES is on because of the O2 sim.
No problem Jon, even though I've got a DEK it's pretty monsterous on the street too
#50
and open cutout
Just rub the Powwa in my face
your basically telling me
If I do the obx headers I can also allot money for the flash, but I really like quality, and do not want to run into problems using those dang sims.
#51
I've got the 02-03 headers. The ONLY difference between the 01 headers (which must not exist anymore ) and the 02-03 is the lack of EGR on the 02-03 models. So zero modification here.
For my entire exhaust...
So, quite a bit... worth it though, especially since there's a lot of power to be unlocked through controlling the ignition timing on the VQ cars.
Tuned on the street, had the AFR harness hooked up to my e-Manage so the AEM shot the AFR signal directly to the e-Manage and my laptop.
My SES is on because of the O2 sim.
No problem Jon, even though I've got a DEK it's pretty monsterous on the street too
For my entire exhaust...
- Headers - $380
- Test Pipe - $50
- Cattman cat-back - $4xx
- e-Manage Ultimate + PnP Harness - $6xx
- Dual output O2 sim (defective ) - $40
So, quite a bit... worth it though, especially since there's a lot of power to be unlocked through controlling the ignition timing on the VQ cars.
Tuned on the street, had the AFR harness hooked up to my e-Manage so the AEM shot the AFR signal directly to the e-Manage and my laptop.
My SES is on because of the O2 sim.
No problem Jon, even though I've got a DEK it's pretty monsterous on the street too
#52
Looks slow on camera
The O2 sims don't come with the headers. I bought O2 simulators from www.O2sim.com or something and I just bought the cheapest one because I already spent like $530 that morning
Do some looking around I'm sure you can find a reliable set to keep your SES off.
I'm having good experience with my v2OBX headers. I don't wanna start a Cattman vs. OBX debate but that was my personal experience. If you wanna get Cattmans, go ahead, I have his products on my car too and the cat-back sounds so sweet, especially while using my launch control
Also with the money i saved I could buy a SPRINT BOOSTER...kidding! (I have cable throttle)
Do some looking around I'm sure you can find a reliable set to keep your SES off.
I'm having good experience with my v2OBX headers. I don't wanna start a Cattman vs. OBX debate but that was my personal experience. If you wanna get Cattmans, go ahead, I have his products on my car too and the cat-back sounds so sweet, especially while using my launch control
Also with the money i saved I could buy a SPRINT BOOSTER...kidding! (I have cable throttle)
Last edited by MoncefA33; 01-06-2010 at 09:54 PM.
#53
Looks slow on camera
The O2 sims don't come with the headers. I bought O2 simulators from www.O2sim.com or something and I just bought the cheapest one because I already spent like $530 that morning
Do some looking around I'm sure you can find a reliable set to keep your SES off.
I'm having good experience with my v2OBX headers. I don't wanna start a Cattman vs. OBX debate but that was my personal experience. If you wanna get Cattmans, go ahead, I have his products on my car too and the cat-back sounds so sweet, especially while using my launch control
Also with the money i saved I could buy a SPRINT BOOSTER...kidding! (I have cable throttle)
#54
Yeah.... It rarely works out as easily as planned. I spent 2 hours becuase 2 of my rear bolts and nuts were rusted and stripped. Front is easy, Breaker bar is defintely a must if you have the room. Get ready for alot of cursin, haha.
#56
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Total for all those mods if you went with OBX headers is under 1,000 dollars. And 75 shot isn't a big deal, you don't need fueling upgrades and can run on stock timing.
And that was just an unbolted Y-pipe, no cutout.
And that was just an unbolted Y-pipe, no cutout.
#59
Figured it was open somewhere, also I would imagine you ran colder plugs.
Let me see how my check looks this week, if its as promising as I think I just might jump on the header bandwagon, I dunno about nirtous tho, Im not that good with moderation
#61
#62
#64
Im just going to most likely start with the headers..... Probably obx v-poo. but with the money saved I can see where to go from there, Due to the fact that I will have to get a ecu program to unleash its real power.
also, when you contacted technosquare did you tell them to tune for nitrous, How did that work?
also, when you contacted technosquare did you tell them to tune for nitrous, How did that work?
#66
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Im just going to most likely start with the headers..... Probably obx v-poo. but with the money saved I can see where to go from there, Due to the fact that I will have to get a ecu program to unleash its real power.
also, when you contacted technosquare did you tell them to tune for nitrous, How did that work?
also, when you contacted technosquare did you tell them to tune for nitrous, How did that work?
I wouldn't get a TS reflash personally. If you want to spray nitrous I would just go with a small shot and stock ECU with VAFC. If you want to spray a big shot then UTEC.
If you want reliable N/A power, go with the TS reflash and get a wideband and VAFC-2.
And yeah definitely go with the headers first!
#67
#68
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So what you do, is you combine the Jet System with the Sprint Booster for a total increase in power, speed, and agility.
#69
I had no tune for nitrous. I simply hooked up my $300 dollar nitrous kit, jetted it for 35 when testing it, then jetted up to 75 and went to the track.
I wouldn't get a TS reflash personally. If you want to spray nitrous I would just go with a small shot and stock ECU with VAFC. If you want to spray a big shot then UTEC.
If you want reliable N/A power, go with the TS reflash and get a wideband and VAFC-2.
And yeah definitely go with the headers first!
I wouldn't get a TS reflash personally. If you want to spray nitrous I would just go with a small shot and stock ECU with VAFC. If you want to spray a big shot then UTEC.
If you want reliable N/A power, go with the TS reflash and get a wideband and VAFC-2.
And yeah definitely go with the headers first!
I think that with the items I have already Nwp bp/ spacers / Intake / cat back, and the addition of the headers I might just be satisfied. Nitrous would be epic win!!!! and I would for sure do the SAFC if i did the headers, I would just opt for no wideband, as I would prefer a dyno shop do the tune instead of me cookie cutting one.
OR
I could do the ts with the 350 flash and SSIM.....
SO many possibilities geez.
#71
Well you need more horsepower to truly unlock the potential of the sprint booster. You see, the booster makes your gas pedal into the trigger with which you will blow away your competition. You need power to go with the booster!
So what you do, is you combine the Jet System with the Sprint Booster for a total increase in power, speed, and agility.
So what you do, is you combine the Jet System with the Sprint Booster for a total increase in power, speed, and agility.
Or he could just do Intake, NWP spacers, Catback exhaust. Tire shredding beginner power.
#72
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That reliable power is like 700-800 in electronics......
I think that with the items I have already Nwp bp/ spacers / Intake / cat back, and the addition of the headers I might just be satisfied. Nitrous would be epic win!!!! and I would for sure do the SAFC if i did the headers, I would just opt for no wideband, as I would prefer a dyno shop do the tune instead of me cookie cutting one.
OR
I could do the ts with the 350 flash and SSIM.....
SO many possibilities geez.
I think that with the items I have already Nwp bp/ spacers / Intake / cat back, and the addition of the headers I might just be satisfied. Nitrous would be epic win!!!! and I would for sure do the SAFC if i did the headers, I would just opt for no wideband, as I would prefer a dyno shop do the tune instead of me cookie cutting one.
OR
I could do the ts with the 350 flash and SSIM.....
SO many possibilities geez.
#73
#74
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Intake (just SRI velocity stack with dry flow filter and deleted midpipe)
NWP vias block plate
NWP spacers
ES MM and shifter bushings
Headers (OBX way cheaper now)
Leave exhaust stock and open Y-pipe at the track until a cheap 3" exhaust is released.
Then I would go for tuning, I'd do the UTEC again and bribe SurraTT into making me a patch harness.
Then STICKY TIRES!
Of course you would want to install some of these things at the same time to save effort/money.
If you get a Technosquare reflash, get the F-spec. It's worth the extra money.
#76
Im just going to most likely start with the headers..... Probably obx v-poo. but with the money saved I can see where to go from there, Due to the fact that I will have to get a ecu program to unleash its real power.
also, when you contacted technosquare did you tell them to tune for nitrous, How did that work?
also, when you contacted technosquare did you tell them to tune for nitrous, How did that work?
If you're running a wet nitrous setup you don't need any actual AFR tuning really, but above 100 shot you may wanna consider retarding ignition timing.
As far as TS vs. UTEC for nitrous get UTEC at least then you can run multiple maps so you could have a sick, aggressive N/A map and when you arm the nitrous you can switch to your more laid back ignition maps to keep the engine safe while traveling through time
#77
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Stop hatin on my headers
If you're running a wet nitrous setup you don't need any actual AFR tuning really, but above 100 shot you may wanna consider retarding ignition timing.
As far as TS vs. UTEC for nitrous get UTEC at least then you can run multiple maps so you could have a sick, aggressive N/A map and when you arm the nitrous you can switch to your more laid back ignition maps to keep the engine safe while traveling through time
If you're running a wet nitrous setup you don't need any actual AFR tuning really, but above 100 shot you may wanna consider retarding ignition timing.
As far as TS vs. UTEC for nitrous get UTEC at least then you can run multiple maps so you could have a sick, aggressive N/A map and when you arm the nitrous you can switch to your more laid back ignition maps to keep the engine safe while traveling through time
#78
And no launch control?
And you could run v-Manage on a VQ35 correct?
#79
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UTEC can be used with a MAP sensor, but you have to keep the MAF for closed loop. With the Haltech you can delete your maf all together using TPS and RPM or map-only to tune with. It can be used as a full standalone whereas the UTEC is a piggyback with standalone dreams.
#80
Yeah but the Vmanage is 500 dollars and we only get intake cam control.
UTEC can be used with a MAP sensor, but you have to keep the MAF for closed loop. With the Haltech you can delete your maf all together using TPS and RPM or map-only to tune with. It can be used as a full standalone whereas the UTEC is a piggyback with standalone dreams.
UTEC can be used with a MAP sensor, but you have to keep the MAF for closed loop. With the Haltech you can delete your maf all together using TPS and RPM or map-only to tune with. It can be used as a full standalone whereas the UTEC is a piggyback with standalone dreams.
However, there was a member on my350Z.com who used COBB to adjust the intake cam timing and saw his mass airflow skyrocket (AFR at WOT jumped from mid 12s to 14 something ) So there is a chance to see a substantial airflow increase even on stock cams (he was running Tomeis I believe).
Hmm. Eh, I'm not a fan of MAP conversion anyway, especially on an N/A car, seeing as how you need to build an intake temp correction map and such.