APEXi S-AFC vs. V-AFC vs. V-AFC II

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Jan 6, 2010 | 08:01 PM
  #41  
Quote: Utec lol


Thanks for the info greatly appreciate it.

Headers would be cheaper but the labor involved kills it for me.
Labor...? Aw, c'mon.

All you have to do is remove the fans, and the UIM. Put the car on a lift, remove the Y-pipe (disconnect all the O2s first).

Then remove the front manifolds, and then remove the rear motor mount and shift rods, then swing the motor slightly forward to remove the rear manifolds.

Install headers/downpipe, notch crossmember enough to clear the flex section depending on the brand. Reassemble crossmember, fans, rear motor mount, shift linkage.

Reinstall O2 sensors, reconnect to the harnesses, hook a dual output O2 simulator up.

Reinstall UIM. So worth it.
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Jan 6, 2010 | 08:04 PM
  #42  
Quote: Labor...? Aw, c'mon.

All you have to do is remove the fans, and the UIM. Put the car on a lift, remove the Y-pipe (disconnect all the O2s first).

Then remove the front manifolds, and then remove the rear motor mount and shift rods, then swing the motor slightly forward to remove the rear manifolds.

Install headers/downpipe, notch crossmember enough to clear the flex section depending on the brand. Reassemble crossmember, fans, rear motor mount, shift linkage.

Reinstall O2 sensors, reconnect to the harnesses, hook a dual output O2 simulator up.

Reinstall UIM. So worth it.
I did not remove fans or shifter linkages. Only UIM and Sensors/Ypipe. With long extensions you can get to all of the bolts without removing much.

But my headers also fit perfectly
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Jan 6, 2010 | 08:05 PM
  #43  
Quote: Headers can be done in 3-4 hours with the right tools. The utec is a 2-3 day install.


Honestly I feel like I need to go to school to understand the spreadsheet and how to tune it properly.

Interesting. I just always hear about 6-8 hours, and the only headers I see at the moment are those Obx version pain in the butt. I wish Cattman would have some in stock.

Also With headers I would still need a tune, so in the end i would need some sort of piggy back or ecu (technosquare)

Correct me if I am wrong..
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Jan 6, 2010 | 08:07 PM
  #44  
Quote: Honestly I feel like I need to go to school to understand the spreadsheet and how to tune it properly.

Interesting. I just always hear about 6-8 hours, and the only headers I see at the moment are those Obx version pain in the butt. I wish Cattman would have some in stock.

Also With headers I would still need a tune, so in the end i would need some sort of piggy back or ecu (technosquare)

Correct me if I am wrong..
Just a F-spec reflash and headers would be pretty huge gains with little effort from you. A 75-shot nitrous kit and a wideband would be the best bang for buck, though.
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Jan 6, 2010 | 08:09 PM
  #45  
Quote: Honestly I feel like I need to go to school to understand the spreadsheet and how to tune it properly.

Interesting. I just always hear about 6-8 hours, and the only headers I see at the moment are those Obx version pain in the butt. I wish Cattman would have some in stock.

Also With headers I would still need a tune, so in the end i would need some sort of piggy back or ecu (technosquare)

Correct me if I am wrong..
Nah you're right. Mine took 8 hours. v2OBX was only a pain because of the crossmember.

If you're gonna go with Technosquare, you may still wanna squeeze maximum power out by piggybacking it with a V/SAFC.

However, Technosquare is pretty tight because if you wanna do SSIM, you can have TS remap the VTCs (variable camshaft timing) to the specs of the 350Z for major major gains throughout the midrange. Win

TS + VAFC2 + Innovate LM-1 wideband + RPM converter (for datalogging) would be FTW.
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Jan 6, 2010 | 08:09 PM
  #46  
Quote: Labor...? Aw, c'mon.

All you have to do is remove the fans, and the UIM. Put the car on a lift, remove the Y-pipe (disconnect all the O2s first).

Then remove the front manifolds, and then remove the rear motor mount and shift rods, then swing the motor slightly forward to remove the rear manifolds.

Install headers/downpipe, notch crossmember enough to clear the flex section depending on the brand. Reassemble crossmember, fans, rear motor mount, shift linkage.

Reinstall O2 sensors, reconnect to the harnesses, hook a dual output O2 simulator up.

Reinstall UIM. So worth it.

Did you install Cattman or another brand? Because if it was obx, I would be modifying your version headers(00-01) to fit my vehicle (02-03) so there may be more involved.

also, what was your grand total and how did you tune?

and any cels?

Sorry lol Im getting amped up about moaaarrr powwaaa
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Jan 6, 2010 | 08:15 PM
  #47  
got ya.



Nitrous is a thought, just not on a daily driver. I have messed with it before and it just puts to much instant strain on drivetrain components. (Had it on my Fox body)


And Moncef thanks for your input as well.
that combo on the bottom would be killer both on the streets and in my pocket lol.
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Jan 6, 2010 | 08:15 PM
  #48  
Quote: Did you install Cattman or another brand? Because if it was obx, I would be modifying your version headers(00-01) to fit my vehicle (02-03) so there may be more involved.

also, what was your grand total and how did you tune?

and any cels?

Sorry lol Im getting amped up about moaaarrr powwaaa
I've got the 02-03 headers. The ONLY difference between the 01 headers (which must not exist anymore ) and the 02-03 is the lack of EGR on the 02-03 models. So zero modification here.


For my entire exhaust...
  • Headers - $380
  • Test Pipe - $50
  • Cattman cat-back - $4xx
  • e-Manage Ultimate + PnP Harness - $6xx
  • Dual output O2 sim (defective ) - $40

So, quite a bit... worth it though, especially since there's a lot of power to be unlocked through controlling the ignition timing on the VQ cars.

Tuned on the street, had the AFR harness hooked up to my e-Manage so the AEM shot the AFR signal directly to the e-Manage and my laptop.

My SES is on because of the O2 sim.

No problem Jon, even though I've got a DEK it's pretty monsterous on the street too
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Jan 6, 2010 | 08:19 PM
  #49  
This is with just intake, headers, slicks, and a 75 shot. No tuning

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Jan 6, 2010 | 08:35 PM
  #50  
Quote: This is with just intake, headers, slicks, and a 75 shot. No tuning

I hate you lol.
and open cutout

Just rub the Powwa in my face
your basically telling me




If I do the obx headers I can also allot money for the flash, but I really like quality, and do not want to run into problems using those dang sims.
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Jan 6, 2010 | 08:36 PM
  #51  
Quote: I've got the 02-03 headers. The ONLY difference between the 01 headers (which must not exist anymore ) and the 02-03 is the lack of EGR on the 02-03 models. So zero modification here.


For my entire exhaust...
  • Headers - $380
  • Test Pipe - $50
  • Cattman cat-back - $4xx
  • e-Manage Ultimate + PnP Harness - $6xx
  • Dual output O2 sim (defective ) - $40

So, quite a bit... worth it though, especially since there's a lot of power to be unlocked through controlling the ignition timing on the VQ cars.

Tuned on the street, had the AFR harness hooked up to my e-Manage so the AEM shot the AFR signal directly to the e-Manage and my laptop.

My SES is on because of the O2 sim.

No problem Jon, even though I've got a DEK it's pretty monsterous on the street too
oh I have seen the power on youtube....
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Jan 6, 2010 | 08:43 PM
  #52  
Quote: oh I have seen the power on youtube....
Looks slow on camera

Quote:
If I do the obx headers I can also allot money for the flash, but I really like quality, and do not want to run into problems using those dang sims.
The O2 sims don't come with the headers. I bought O2 simulators from www.O2sim.com or something and I just bought the cheapest one because I already spent like $530 that morning

Do some looking around I'm sure you can find a reliable set to keep your SES off.

I'm having good experience with my v2OBX headers. I don't wanna start a Cattman vs. OBX debate but that was my personal experience. If you wanna get Cattmans, go ahead, I have his products on my car too and the cat-back sounds so sweet, especially while using my launch control

Also with the money i saved I could buy a SPRINT BOOSTER...kidding! (I have cable throttle)
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Jan 7, 2010 | 05:41 AM
  #53  
Quote:

Looks slow on camera



The O2 sims don't come with the headers. I bought O2 simulators from www.O2sim.com or something and I just bought the cheapest one because I already spent like $530 that morning

Do some looking around I'm sure you can find a reliable set to keep your SES off.

I'm having good experience with my v2OBX headers. I don't wanna start a Cattman vs. OBX debate but that was my personal experience. If you wanna get Cattmans, go ahead, I have his products on my car too and the cat-back sounds so sweet, especially while using my launch control

Also with the money i saved I could buy a SPRINT BOOSTER...kidding! (I have cable throttle)
lol at the sprint booster
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Jan 7, 2010 | 12:38 PM
  #54  
Quote: I did not remove fans or shifter linkages. Only UIM and Sensors/Ypipe. With long extensions you can get to all of the bolts without removing much.

But my headers also fit perfectly
Yeah.... It rarely works out as easily as planned. I spent 2 hours becuase 2 of my rear bolts and nuts were rusted and stripped. Front is easy, Breaker bar is defintely a must if you have the room. Get ready for alot of cursin, haha.
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Jan 7, 2010 | 12:40 PM
  #55  
Quote: This is with just intake, headers, slicks, and a 75 shot. No tuning

Just a 75 shot... No biggie.... lol. Nice time
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Jan 7, 2010 | 12:42 PM
  #56  
Quote: Just a 75 shot... No biggie.... lol. Nice time
Total for all those mods if you went with OBX headers is under 1,000 dollars. And 75 shot isn't a big deal, you don't need fueling upgrades and can run on stock timing.

And that was just an unbolted Y-pipe, no cutout.
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Jan 7, 2010 | 12:46 PM
  #57  
Is a jet chip better than the Apexi, looking for some info before buying a chip.
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Jan 7, 2010 | 12:48 PM
  #58  
Quote: Is a jet chip better than the Apexi, looking for some info before buying a chip.
If you get the Jet chip, also look into the sprint booster. They make an unmatchable combo of full-throttle joy that only a VQ engine can produce.
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Jan 7, 2010 | 12:55 PM
  #59  
Quote: Total for all those mods if you went with OBX headers is under 1,000 dollars. And 75 shot isn't a big deal, you don't need fueling upgrades and can run on stock timing.

And that was just an unbolted Y-pipe, no cutout.

Figured it was open somewhere, also I would imagine you ran colder plugs.

Let me see how my check looks this week, if its as promising as I think I just might jump on the header bandwagon, I dunno about nirtous tho, Im not that good with moderation
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Jan 7, 2010 | 12:58 PM
  #60  
Quote: Figured it was open somewhere, also I would imagine you ran colder plugs.

Let me see how my check looks this week, if its as promising as I think I just might jump on the header bandwagon, I dunno about nirtous tho, Im not that good with moderation
Just a 1 step colder set of copper plugs at a cost of ~30 dollars. You can be good at moderation if you only have jets for 35-50-75 shots and don't buy more!
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Jan 7, 2010 | 01:06 PM
  #61  
Quote: If you get the Jet chip, also look into the sprint booster. They make an unmatchable combo of full-throttle joy that only a VQ engine can produce.
I just found that Ad with you as a testimonial

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Jan 7, 2010 | 01:07 PM
  #62  
Quote: Just a 1 step colder set of copper plugs at a cost of ~30 dollars. You can be good at moderation if you only have jets for 35-50-75 shots and don't buy more!
I know, but that never happens.
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Jan 7, 2010 | 01:09 PM
  #63  
Quote: I know, but that never happens.
Yeah I wanted to up my shot but you need a fuel pump or an external fuel cell to run above a 75 shot, so it's kinda limited by stock fueling.
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Jan 7, 2010 | 01:14 PM
  #64  
Im just going to most likely start with the headers..... Probably obx v-poo. but with the money saved I can see where to go from there, Due to the fact that I will have to get a ecu program to unleash its real power.

also, when you contacted technosquare did you tell them to tune for nitrous, How did that work?
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Jan 7, 2010 | 01:16 PM
  #65  
So ur telling me the sprint booster is better than the jet system or technosquare. I dont know much about chipping!
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Jan 7, 2010 | 01:17 PM
  #66  
Quote: Im just going to most likely start with the headers..... Probably obx v-poo. but with the money saved I can see where to go from there, Due to the fact that I will have to get a ecu program to unleash its real power.

also, when you contacted technosquare did you tell them to tune for nitrous, How did that work?
I had no tune for nitrous. I simply hooked up my $300 dollar nitrous kit, jetted it for 35 when testing it, then jetted up to 75 and went to the track.

I wouldn't get a TS reflash personally. If you want to spray nitrous I would just go with a small shot and stock ECU with VAFC. If you want to spray a big shot then UTEC.

If you want reliable N/A power, go with the TS reflash and get a wideband and VAFC-2.

And yeah definitely go with the headers first!
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Jan 7, 2010 | 01:17 PM
  #67  
Quote: So ur telling me the sprint booster is better than the jet system or technosquare. I dont know much about chipping!
Ill let Sparks Explain it he's the Pro on that Subject.
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Jan 7, 2010 | 01:20 PM
  #68  
Quote: So ur telling me the sprint booster is better than the jet system or technosquare. I dont know much about chipping!
Well you need more horsepower to truly unlock the potential of the sprint booster. You see, the booster makes your gas pedal into the trigger with which you will blow away your competition. You need power to go with the booster!

So what you do, is you combine the Jet System with the Sprint Booster for a total increase in power, speed, and agility.
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Jan 7, 2010 | 01:23 PM
  #69  
Quote: I had no tune for nitrous. I simply hooked up my $300 dollar nitrous kit, jetted it for 35 when testing it, then jetted up to 75 and went to the track.

I wouldn't get a TS reflash personally. If you want to spray nitrous I would just go with a small shot and stock ECU with VAFC. If you want to spray a big shot then UTEC.

If you want reliable N/A power, go with the TS reflash and get a wideband and VAFC-2.

And yeah definitely go with the headers first!
That reliable power is like 700-800 in electronics......

I think that with the items I have already Nwp bp/ spacers / Intake / cat back, and the addition of the headers I might just be satisfied. Nitrous would be epic win!!!! and I would for sure do the SAFC if i did the headers, I would just opt for no wideband, as I would prefer a dyno shop do the tune instead of me cookie cutting one.


OR

I could do the ts with the 350 flash and SSIM.....


SO many possibilities geez.
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Jan 7, 2010 | 01:24 PM
  #70  
Well i got a CAI and Cat Back and am looking to speend a little over $300 WHAT would you suggest for the maximum power gain.
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Jan 7, 2010 | 01:27 PM
  #71  
Quote: Well you need more horsepower to truly unlock the potential of the sprint booster. You see, the booster makes your gas pedal into the trigger with which you will blow away your competition. You need power to go with the booster!

So what you do, is you combine the Jet System with the Sprint Booster for a total increase in power, speed, and agility.
Epic Win.

Or he could just do Intake, NWP spacers, Catback exhaust. Tire shredding beginner power.
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Jan 7, 2010 | 01:27 PM
  #72  
Quote: That reliable power is like 700-800 in electronics......

I think that with the items I have already Nwp bp/ spacers / Intake / cat back, and the addition of the headers I might just be satisfied. Nitrous would be epic win!!!! and I would for sure do the SAFC if i did the headers, I would just opt for no wideband, as I would prefer a dyno shop do the tune instead of me cookie cutting one.


OR

I could do the ts with the 350 flash and SSIM.....


SO many possibilities geez.
Or you could get a $450-500 used TXS UTEC, a $150-200 used TXS Tuner, talk to SurraTT about a deal on install, and have the gains from full timing control as well as A/F. Total cost for me was around $750
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Jan 7, 2010 | 01:29 PM
  #73  
Quote: Well i got a CAI and Cat Back and am looking to speend a little over $300 WHAT would you suggest for the maximum power gain.
NWP spacers 250 or something. 10hp 12tq.

Then Headers 300-700 Obx-Cattman

Then Ecu - 400 -technosquare.

Dont ask anymore just do it
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Jan 7, 2010 | 01:33 PM
  #74  
Quote: Epic Win.

Or he could just do Intake, NWP spacers, Catback exhaust. Tire shredding beginner power.
If I had a stock car to start over with, I would do mods in this order:

Intake (just SRI velocity stack with dry flow filter and deleted midpipe)
NWP vias block plate
NWP spacers
ES MM and shifter bushings
Headers (OBX way cheaper now)
Leave exhaust stock and open Y-pipe at the track until a cheap 3" exhaust is released.
Then I would go for tuning, I'd do the UTEC again and bribe SurraTT into making me a patch harness.
Then STICKY TIRES!

Of course you would want to install some of these things at the same time to save effort/money.

If you get a Technosquare reflash, get the F-spec. It's worth the extra money.
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Jan 7, 2010 | 01:33 PM
  #75  
Alright thanks for the advice
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Jan 7, 2010 | 03:13 PM
  #76  
Quote: Im just going to most likely start with the headers..... Probably obx v-poo. but with the money saved I can see where to go from there, Due to the fact that I will have to get a ecu program to unleash its real power.

also, when you contacted technosquare did you tell them to tune for nitrous, How did that work?
Stop hatin on my headers

If you're running a wet nitrous setup you don't need any actual AFR tuning really, but above 100 shot you may wanna consider retarding ignition timing.

As far as TS vs. UTEC for nitrous get UTEC at least then you can run multiple maps so you could have a sick, aggressive N/A map and when you arm the nitrous you can switch to your more laid back ignition maps to keep the engine safe while traveling through time
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Jan 7, 2010 | 03:15 PM
  #77  
Quote: Stop hatin on my headers

If you're running a wet nitrous setup you don't need any actual AFR tuning really, but above 100 shot you may wanna consider retarding ignition timing.

As far as TS vs. UTEC for nitrous get UTEC at least then you can run multiple maps so you could have a sick, aggressive N/A map and when you arm the nitrous you can switch to your more laid back ignition maps to keep the engine safe while traveling through time
Yep that's what makes the UTEC great. You could get control of intake CVTC and 2-step, as well as timing, fuel, with the ability to delete your maf and other stuff with a Haltech. Problem is that it costs 2,000 dollars.
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Jan 7, 2010 | 03:44 PM
  #78  
Quote: Yep that's what makes the UTEC great. You could get control of intake CVTC and 2-step, as well as timing, fuel, with the ability to delete your maf and other stuff with a Haltech. Problem is that it costs 2,000 dollars.
Whoa UTEC doesn't do MAF to MAP conversion?

And no launch control?

And you could run v-Manage on a VQ35 correct?
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Jan 7, 2010 | 03:46 PM
  #79  
Quote: Whoa UTEC doesn't do MAF to MAP conversion?

And no launch control?

And you could run v-Manage on a VQ35 correct?
Yeah but the Vmanage is 500 dollars and we only get intake cam control.

UTEC can be used with a MAP sensor, but you have to keep the MAF for closed loop. With the Haltech you can delete your maf all together using TPS and RPM or map-only to tune with. It can be used as a full standalone whereas the UTEC is a piggyback with standalone dreams.
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Jan 7, 2010 | 03:51 PM
  #80  
Quote: Yeah but the Vmanage is 500 dollars and we only get intake cam control.

UTEC can be used with a MAP sensor, but you have to keep the MAF for closed loop. With the Haltech you can delete your maf all together using TPS and RPM or map-only to tune with. It can be used as a full standalone whereas the UTEC is a piggyback with standalone dreams.
Used v-Manage FTW. And yes because the non-RevUp VQ35s run static exhaust cam timing.

However, there was a member on my350Z.com who used COBB to adjust the intake cam timing and saw his mass airflow skyrocket (AFR at WOT jumped from mid 12s to 14 something ) So there is a chance to see a substantial airflow increase even on stock cams (he was running Tomeis I believe).

Hmm. Eh, I'm not a fan of MAP conversion anyway, especially on an N/A car, seeing as how you need to build an intake temp correction map and such.
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