dont ask, the ypipe looks like crap been on since early 05

 

Ouch. Sorry to hear that, Hotshot.

That stings, the whiplash of pride and shame, both in the same thread.

Curse you, New York Winter!

 

why am i mad???

 

naw i got it installed lol... i must say u got me, i am however mad that i dont have those ... can i borrow it for two days LMAO!!!

 

im going to the dyno next sat, lets she what she does..i can only hope to better your #'s

 

goodluck man.. even if u dont get better which im sure you will, i still prefer your header setup over majority including myself

 

im hoping for 240+ and the dyno is a dyno dynamics and i hear they read low...we will see...car hauls so i dont care..lol

 

How much does that dyno run cost you, Hotshot?

Just curious. I've never run the numbers on my car, and my mechanic asked me the other day if I wanted to strap my car down. (His words.)

Other than bragging rights and gauging the effectiveness of various go-fast mods, is there another reason why you care about these stats?

 

i feel u... i got vids of mines that will get me a good ban on here but i dont care either lol... ull get good numbers

 

not to put sentences on his keyboard but i'd say to get his A/F correct, making sure he is getting the most out of his power mods and have the engine running efficiently

 

That's OK, we like you're opinions too, Hustler. Are you saying the dynamometer shop is going to also make some kind of adjustments? Like what?

I'm a dyno virgin. Oh God, there, I said it.

 

well... like on my dyno graph, the guy asked if i had some kinda tuning device, (which i should of had but thanks to FEDEX they came the next day) they look at the A/F graph at the bottom of the dyno graph and add fuel where needs be or take away fuel, so instead of running too rich or lean which can help ruin your motor in the long run they adjust it using your V/Safc or other tuning device so you car has its full potential while working under its recommended curve (my best explanation... hope that helps)

 

you cant really pay most of these guys no mind man... its a reason why maryland has some of the faster N/A maxima, most people on here do mods for bragging rights and dont ever put it to the test, whenever you hear em critisize me it's fine, i can take it, its the internet they will be bold... we met each other, you know what type of guy i am, for the people on here from all ova the country who i talk to and text on a regular basis will tell you that i know more than most people on here... i've been proving a lot of the things said on this forum wrong for a long time and i know with doing that i will be critisize but its cool... it was nice to meet you though

 

So unless you have a piggy-back, the dyno is just a snapshot -- is that about right?

Which is fine, because a TS flash is in my sights for next Summer, and I was wondering if they could make use of a dyno sheet in addition to the list of mods. Do you think?

 

hmmm i never really thought of it like that, sound good though, im not sure... (im taking it that you are doing the $500 custom reflash) really and truelly it makes no difference between the two, idk if they can get it right on the first try cause you would more likely need to do a regular pull, add/subtract fuel, run again and again til you get it right get the ECU but you probebly will still need a piggy pack A/F device (all cars are different)........... and to answer your question, yes a dyno pull is more of a snapshot if u do not tune... some just wants to know where they stand also (my main reason for dynoing, was to see the numbers on my headers plus i've never dynoed ever in my life lol)

 

Yes, my plan (flexible though it may be) is to go with their custom flash... since they tailor it to the mods on your car, I was thinking a current dyno sheet would help with that.

You know, I should just contact them and ask. Although if anyone else wants to weigh in with opinions, that's cool. This thread is kind of a free-for-all at this point.

Thanks for the input, Hustler. Enjoy your first run!

 

i did already lol... i was speaking on the custom reflash yes it is for your mods but it makes no difference... datdude20 has it (he doesnt come on here that much because the company is wack) and he will tell you that its nothing really, jaypee jas the basic and he had a new record at the dyno the other day... i saw 280's N/A... he doesnt come on here that much neither cause the way this forum operates now... (childish).... funny he is on acurazine more than here lol... im also a part of another forum too and so is most but they come on here rearly for some retarded reasons

 

well, i dyno'd 5 years ago with just my frankencar intake and did 218 whp/228 wtqe so i want to see how much more power the $1000 on headers and exhaust gave me my friends shop is charging 60 bux for 3 fulls, and i know the car is running rich and tuning it will help,but thats for another day...

and i want to out do hustle and his silly obx headers cause he wants my hs headers so bad..lol

 

keep in mind that im auto lol i should be outdone... its o.k... if you dont make as much we can trade headers

 

Keep in mind that during closed loop operation, the AFR (air fuel ratio) is controlled by the ECU's feedback loop (o2 sensors).

The tuning device only changes the fuel maps for when the ECU is running in open loop.

So running untuned shouldn't damage anything unless your running around at full throttle all the time.

Still get a tune as soon as possible though because of the possibility of running lean which would be a worst case scenario.

I believe the ECU enters open loop at 40% throttle and/or above 3000rpm, these figures could be wrong, but it gets the point across.

 

Get's the point across? Sorry, no, not for me, Unklejoe.

By "tune", you're referring to a reprogramming of the ECU by either a one-time flash (TS), or dynamic adjustments with a piggyback, right?

Is your point that even though power mods are positively affecting the engine performance, unless we "tune" the engine, it will run lean and inefficiently matched to optimum operation (all mods in consideration)... is that what you're saying?

 

What I'm saying is that the car will not be damaged from everyday driving without a tune because the ECU keeps the AFR at stoich when operating in closed loop.

Once you floor the car or take it into high rpms, the ECU enters what they call "open loop". This means the ecu is using stored fuel maps and MAF readings and is not using the o2 sensors to regulate the AFR.

Generally, Maximas will run rich after doing mods (This is only during open loop, because as I said, during regular driving a.k.a closed loop, the AFR is perfect).

This is why we need to "tune" our cars to get the most performance during open loop operation.

Sure, you'll notice power increases after doing mods without a tune, but you will most likely notice more if you adjust the AFR to where it is supposed to be with a tuning device.

Now if the car is running lean during open loop, this can cause damage because the car is only in open loop during times of high load, which may cause problems such as pre detonation and over heating.

And by "tune" I am referring to any means of correcting the AFR during open loop operation. (piggyback, reflash)

The bottom line is that you are perfectly fine driving around without a tune for everyday driving because the ECU corrects itself for the mods.

However, if you plan to run around at WOT a lot, it's a good idea to get a tune just in case you are indeed running lean.

Sorry if I didn't explain this well

FWIW, I am running headers, intake spacers and a 2 degree timing advance all without a tune and I did notice a power increase. I still want to get a tune in the future though.

 

And for the TS reflash, I believe your supposed to do a dyno run before the tune and email them the run file so they can use that to make their corrections to your ECU.

That's like the only way I could imagine the reflash working, unless they just guess how your car is running and correct off of that haha.

 

Good posts, and good advice, Unklejoe. I appreciate the time taken to write that response.

Dyno run as input for the TS flash... that's what I was thinking (guessing), so it's good to get corroboration. Of course, I will communicate with Technosquare beforehand, but so far it feels like a good plan for next summer.

The only other mod I'm considering before that flash that would affect AFR is deleting the VIAS. Beyond that, I'm done with engine performance mods (spacers, short ram, ypipe, catback.)

Thanks again.

 

Good luck Rochester, TS is a pretty listening company in good words, im sure they would be willing to do the tune based off your runfiles

 

i would like to see what your a/f ratio is. i dont think its going to be too rich since you dont have headers, but only a dyno with a wideband will tell

i didnt think they based their tune off anyones runfiles. I may be wrong but Nmexmax has the TS flash with the Z33 tune, and his a/f ratios were pretty good..he may have since added an afc to further tune the car. the ts seems like a nice upgrade, especially with the 7100RPM

 

yea, if you ask them they will more than likely cooperate, datdude20 has the custom reflash and he asked em to do 7200 rpm and they did, i do agree that some sort of afc will still be needed though

 

I think there's two separate flashes that they do also.

One is like the rev limiter and z33 cvtc maps and the other includes the fuel map correction.

Some people get the basic flash and use an AFC to actually tune the AFR.

And no problem, always love to help out

 

^^^ i would go for the one you mention in the later of your post... basic with some sort of afc device

 

Thanks, guys. The TS flash is still a long way off, and I've got lots of things keeping me busy with the car before next summer. I'd likely opt for the one-time-flash. As of yet, I haven't researched piggybacks enough to have a solid opinion, other than to be a little intimidated by the idea.

Weird how these pointless threads get bigleman'd into other conversations. If the OP ever comes back, I feel like I should apologize.

 

consider it doing him a favor, you saved his pointless/ no knowledging thread from getting deleted and filled it with great info

 

HEY GUYS IM KINDA NEW TO THIS WEBSITE ...I HAVE A 2000 NISSAN MAX AND I AM THINKING ABOUT PUTTING SOME NEW HEADERS ON!...ANY SUGGESTIONS?? THANKS!

 

yeah wish I had the money for those instead I get a new bun in the oven growing

 

yea, for a 2000 all you really need is a Y-pipe, but if you are sold on headers... Cattman for best fitment and OBX for best price... Same power output

 

or some used hotshots

 

wow, didn't think this thread would strike so many opinions..BUT thanks to all who has congratulated me.

any helpful tips for installation beside the obvious take the old ones out and put the new in? i have new gaskets and hardware. do i need any type of silicone with the gaskets or are the gaskets good by them self? thx again

 

how could i forget... for best results, try finding some used hotshots lol, be aware that owners will be gay on sellin em though lol

 

obviously you didnt read the thread... as for tips, you hit it best, take the old one off and install the new, then go on some open road and have fun

 

hater! my #s will own..wait till sat..fawking haters!!

 

Holy crap, the OP actually came back!

Be sure to let us know how that header install goes.