Battery Relocation Installation with pics.
10-13-2009, 06:58 PM
#1
Battery Relocation Installation with pics. Update 1 of 2
I been searching everywhere for a proper guide to relocating the battery on the Max so I decided to do my own little write up just in case anyone else wants to do this...
I know you can make your own kit from junk you find at your local parts store but I just ordered the kit from summit and paid the 80 bucks, saves me gas and time and i just like getting stuff in the mail..
PLEASE READ EVERYTHING BEFORE PROCEEDING and i'm not responsible for your mistakes so read carefully, use intelligence and be aware that your messing with your cars electrical system, You can blow fuses, fry the ECU and cause a fire so please be careful.
Battery Box from summit.
Packaging.
Everything included.
Open trunk, all doors, and disconnect positive cable.
Starter and fuse box on positive cable.
I know you can make your own kit from junk you find at your local parts store but I just ordered the kit from summit and paid the 80 bucks, saves me gas and time and i just like getting stuff in the mail..
PLEASE READ EVERYTHING BEFORE PROCEEDING and i'm not responsible for your mistakes so read carefully, use intelligence and be aware that your messing with your cars electrical system, You can blow fuses, fry the ECU and cause a fire so please be careful.
Battery Box from summit.
Packaging.
Everything included.
Open trunk, all doors, and disconnect positive cable.
Starter and fuse box on positive cable.
Last edited by kcxd35; 10-24-2009 at 12:15 PM.
10-13-2009, 06:59 PM
#2
Both connected to fuse.
The blue cable is my subwoofer positive wire, just pretend it's not there; The negitive screws into the body and attaches to engine ground
Remove battery terminal connector from wires.
120 amp fuse
Remove screw from battery terminal holder.
The blue cable is my subwoofer positive wire, just pretend it's not there; The negitive screws into the body and attaches to engine ground
Remove battery terminal connector from wires.
120 amp fuse
Remove screw from battery terminal holder.
10-13-2009, 07:00 PM
#3
Pry open terminal battery holder.
Put back the positive terminals as they were and put the screw you just got out of the battery terminal and put it through hole and attach the nut.
Time for break... I'm hungry...Go eat...
Open fender liner on drivers side and you will see two holes... One goes up into the engine and the other is used by your hood open wire that goes inside the cabin, I used my sub wire and taped them together to pull it through so I didn't have to take off my fender liner.
Pull out floor panel and run wire, I used a little tape not shown here to make it a little neater.
Put back the positive terminals as they were and put the screw you just got out of the battery terminal and put it through hole and attach the nut.
Time for break... I'm hungry...Go eat...
Open fender liner on drivers side and you will see two holes... One goes up into the engine and the other is used by your hood open wire that goes inside the cabin, I used my sub wire and taped them together to pull it through so I didn't have to take off my fender liner.
Pull out floor panel and run wire, I used a little tape not shown here to make it a little neater.
10-13-2009, 07:01 PM
#4
Push it under middle section and rear floor panel and under the seat at the side and right into the trunk.
Replace floor panels front and back.
Put battery in box and connect the ground wire and I have no idea how but there was a little hole which I didn't see but when I pushed my finger against the felt to make a hole for the wire my finger just went through so just make one if it's not there and use the screw from the bag that came from summit and find a hole to ground the neg wire.
Replace floor panels front and back.
Put battery in box and connect the ground wire and I have no idea how but there was a little hole which I didn't see but when I pushed my finger against the felt to make a hole for the wire my finger just went through so just make one if it's not there and use the screw from the bag that came from summit and find a hole to ground the neg wire.
10-13-2009, 07:01 PM
#5
Connect positive wire between starter and fused connection and put on screw and nut from earlier.
I just taped up my neg cable end until I can get to autozone to cut it off and crimp on an end that I can ground to the body somewhere.
Now some notes...
I used what I had laying around and I will complete the job and make everything neat and tidy like stock after work tomorrow. With that said...
All white duck tape will be replaced with black tape.
The neg cable that's taped up will be cut off and probably replaced with a thicker gauge cable, stock looks to be a 4 gauge and I will replace with a 2 gauge wire and the battery terminal connector will be cut off and I will crimp on something that I can use a screw with.
I will also be getting a power distribution block to connect the the starter/fuses to the main power cable which I recommend because it's neater and looks nice...
Some people say run the positive wire under the car and drill holes to hold the battery box in place but I am not drilling anything lol, The battery will be just fine in the box and strapped down with the hooks that are in the trunk. Use a cable strap or something, I don't think it will move at all...
If I did anything wrong or said anything incorrect, please feel free to comment and I can fix the post, I did what seemed right to me and it's working great, bass is hitting and lights are bright, engine feels normal, I'm happy...
I just taped up my neg cable end until I can get to autozone to cut it off and crimp on an end that I can ground to the body somewhere.
Now some notes...
I used what I had laying around and I will complete the job and make everything neat and tidy like stock after work tomorrow. With that said...
All white duck tape will be replaced with black tape.
The neg cable that's taped up will be cut off and probably replaced with a thicker gauge cable, stock looks to be a 4 gauge and I will replace with a 2 gauge wire and the battery terminal connector will be cut off and I will crimp on something that I can use a screw with.
I will also be getting a power distribution block to connect the the starter/fuses to the main power cable which I recommend because it's neater and looks nice...
Some people say run the positive wire under the car and drill holes to hold the battery box in place but I am not drilling anything lol, The battery will be just fine in the box and strapped down with the hooks that are in the trunk. Use a cable strap or something, I don't think it will move at all...
If I did anything wrong or said anything incorrect, please feel free to comment and I can fix the post, I did what seemed right to me and it's working great, bass is hitting and lights are bright, engine feels normal, I'm happy...
10-13-2009, 08:19 PM
#6
what was your main reason for doing this?..intake? weight distribution? the heck of it? lol.. good work.. just curous..hmm.. more ?'s . . .
i thought that when you rear relocated you need some sort of emergency cutoff switch near the dash..?...maybe that was only for track inspection.. not sure..
how do you have the battery secured?
are you going to remove the tray?
i thought that when you rear relocated you need some sort of emergency cutoff switch near the dash..?...maybe that was only for track inspection.. not sure..
how do you have the battery secured?
are you going to remove the tray?
10-13-2009, 10:13 PM
#13
I did this because of many reasons which some may be relevant and some may not but here they are.
Weight: If it helps or doesn't somehow to me engine, trans, fluids, radiator, battery all on front wheels and whats in the rear besides fuel tank and spare tire so I thought that taking 30lbs or whatever it is and putting it on the rear wheels would help along with my subwoofer which is another 20lbs or so...
Ease: ppl can now pull up behind me to give me a jump start if my battery happens to die without having to face me like if i'm on a highway.
Intake: I have a short ram and with the battery in the front of it blocking most of the air space, It seems like it would help because now there a big open space to freely pull air from and i'm not gonna get into hot or cold air, just more open space seems better than less open space...
Space: More room in engine bay, not that I need it but it looks nice and a little different to open up your hood and see no battery...
For the other question:
Right now i'm securing it with a tow strap that's connected to the two loops in the back of the trunk area, if you look at my pics or cardomain link in my sig you will see how i secure my subwoofer, Well i just moved the sub over and pushed in the batter box sideways and reattached the strap...
I also stress that this is temporary as i'm gonna secure it using a different method which i will post up pics when it's completed...
I will also post pics of the power distribution block when i install that probably tomorrow....
It was getting dark because i'm lazy and started late but i tried to post up at least something to assist anyone in the future as i could find nothing on the org or web...
Also you only need the cutoff switch for track purposes and it must not be at the dash it must be outside the rear of your car if your trunk mounted in clear view that can be seen and used if needed.
Also thanks mister and KOP huh that's where all the rich people are at, I think we need to become friends lol...
Weight: If it helps or doesn't somehow to me engine, trans, fluids, radiator, battery all on front wheels and whats in the rear besides fuel tank and spare tire so I thought that taking 30lbs or whatever it is and putting it on the rear wheels would help along with my subwoofer which is another 20lbs or so...
Ease: ppl can now pull up behind me to give me a jump start if my battery happens to die without having to face me like if i'm on a highway.
Intake: I have a short ram and with the battery in the front of it blocking most of the air space, It seems like it would help because now there a big open space to freely pull air from and i'm not gonna get into hot or cold air, just more open space seems better than less open space...
Space: More room in engine bay, not that I need it but it looks nice and a little different to open up your hood and see no battery...
For the other question:
Right now i'm securing it with a tow strap that's connected to the two loops in the back of the trunk area, if you look at my pics or cardomain link in my sig you will see how i secure my subwoofer, Well i just moved the sub over and pushed in the batter box sideways and reattached the strap...
I also stress that this is temporary as i'm gonna secure it using a different method which i will post up pics when it's completed...
I will also post pics of the power distribution block when i install that probably tomorrow....
It was getting dark because i'm lazy and started late but i tried to post up at least something to assist anyone in the future as i could find nothing on the org or web...
Also you only need the cutoff switch for track purposes and it must not be at the dash it must be outside the rear of your car if your trunk mounted in clear view that can be seen and used if needed.
Also thanks mister and KOP huh that's where all the rich people are at, I think we need to become friends lol...
Last edited by kcxd35; 10-13-2009 at 10:22 PM.
10-13-2009, 11:47 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Toronto, ONT
Posts: 1,044
10-14-2009, 05:52 AM
#16
so I just put it on left...
Just my .02.
10-24-2009, 11:21 AM
#30
Almost finished, just adding some other idea's I did just in case there are more questions and that red wire in the trunk will soon be tucked under and made nice.
Also after driving for about a week, My dash lights are brighter and don't dim slightly when i'm at idle probably due to the new grounding points in the engine but either way good and car starts and runs great, I'm gonna post up a video today or tomorrow but all is well and i'm glad i did it...
I can also say I have noticed more throttle response and it feels like it has more power, could be mind over matter but the throttle response is definitely improved...
I bought some velco and L brackets from lowes and removed that strap, I have alot more space and access to the backseats in the event I need to split/fold them down for more cargo room without having to remove anything...
Also make sure to use black tape on the positive connection under the hood in case of wet weather, so I just tightly put black tape over everything except over the fuse so I can look at it if I need to...
I would say i'm about 98% to finishing this up...
Also after driving for about a week, My dash lights are brighter and don't dim slightly when i'm at idle probably due to the new grounding points in the engine but either way good and car starts and runs great, I'm gonna post up a video today or tomorrow but all is well and i'm glad i did it...
I can also say I have noticed more throttle response and it feels like it has more power, could be mind over matter but the throttle response is definitely improved...
I bought some velco and L brackets from lowes and removed that strap, I have alot more space and access to the backseats in the event I need to split/fold them down for more cargo room without having to remove anything...
Also make sure to use black tape on the positive connection under the hood in case of wet weather, so I just tightly put black tape over everything except over the fuse so I can look at it if I need to...
I would say i'm about 98% to finishing this up...
Last edited by kcxd35; 10-24-2009 at 11:23 AM.
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