Installing ES Bushings under the Shifter Assembly
#41
There's only the one ES shifter kit for the 5.5 gen MT Maxima: 7.1115.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.1115
The photo on their site is misleading. Don't know what that goofly, long bushing is. Certainly not a banjo bushings. You might want to contact Brian Catts at Cattman Performance and ask him for a set.
That's about all I know. Haven't a clue what a "modded P11 with a QR 6-speed paired to an import DET motor" is. Sure does sounds fancy, though.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.1115
The photo on their site is misleading. Don't know what that goofly, long bushing is. Certainly not a banjo bushings. You might want to contact Brian Catts at Cattman Performance and ask him for a set.
That's about all I know. Haven't a clue what a "modded P11 with a QR 6-speed paired to an import DET motor" is. Sure does sounds fancy, though.
Last edited by Rochester; 01-27-2011 at 09:21 AM.
#42
FYI... Energy Suspension lists the 7.1115 as the application for 2000-2003 in their catalog. Perhaps, the Nissan engineers actually did their jobs and retained common style connection points between the old linkage and the new cable system? That kind of foresight doesn't happen often, but it makes me smile when it does.
Or maybe ES just listed their application incorrectly.
Or maybe ES just listed their application incorrectly.
#46
It's onnnnnn now! I received my ES Bushings last month, but haven't had time to install them. So...this weekend...I'm changing oil, also got a K&N lifetime filter...getting Tokico Blues put on the front end along with Moog mounts and Moog lower ball joints!
After the bushings have been installed, i'll give some feedback.
After the bushings have been installed, i'll give some feedback.
#48
#49
Thank you for this write-up John! I changed the bushings under the console in about 30 minutes today including having to pull the console again because I forgot the washer on the cable bushing. Thanks to the detailed instructions I knew exactly what I was getting into.
Impressions are similar to what others have experienced. I feel the elimination of the slop makes for a much more deliberate gate selection. I also noticed a reduction in the '3rd gear crunch.' All in all it adds to the "renewification" process of my 5.5. Well worth the minimal money and labor time.
Impressions are similar to what others have experienced. I feel the elimination of the slop makes for a much more deliberate gate selection. I also noticed a reduction in the '3rd gear crunch.' All in all it adds to the "renewification" process of my 5.5. Well worth the minimal money and labor time.
#50
Thank you for this write-up John! I changed the bushings under the console in about 30 minutes today including having to pull the console again because I forgot the washer on the cable bushing. Thanks to the detailed instructions I knew exactly what I was getting into.
Impressions are similar to what others have experienced. I feel the elimination of the slop makes for a much more deliberate gate selection. I also noticed a reduction in the '3rd gear crunch.' All in all it adds to the "renewification" process of my 5.5. Well worth the minimal money and labor time.
Impressions are similar to what others have experienced. I feel the elimination of the slop makes for a much more deliberate gate selection. I also noticed a reduction in the '3rd gear crunch.' All in all it adds to the "renewification" process of my 5.5. Well worth the minimal money and labor time.
#51
The only difference is that I really haven't noticed much improvement, the shifter is still as clunky as all hell. (ok, 5th and 6th aren't bad)
Still, the original bushings were beat to hell and squishy feeling so I am happy to be done with them. Given the difference between the bushings I had expected to feel more difference in the shifter.
#52
Thank you for this write up Rochester it was very helpful. I knocked out mine this morning along with amsoil tranny fluid change. Im hoping the 2 things combined will provide better shifting and less "clunking".
Great idea from mist max to just use needle nose pliers and pull them out from the top, made it very simple. Didn't have to worry about cutting/stabbing my self that way.
Thanks nellegde for the tip about where the bushing was located in the engine compartment, silly me couldnt find it ... take off the airbox he says. Took me 30 minutes to find the bushing though ( it rolled into the grass, what a pita).
I wasn't able to push the bushing into the ring, but i did (after 30 min or so) put the bushing on the post, and push the ring down around it. Will the help of the back side of my wrench it went on without any more trouble.
anyway, on to my next tinker...
Great idea from mist max to just use needle nose pliers and pull them out from the top, made it very simple. Didn't have to worry about cutting/stabbing my self that way.
Thanks nellegde for the tip about where the bushing was located in the engine compartment, silly me couldnt find it ... take off the airbox he says. Took me 30 minutes to find the bushing though ( it rolled into the grass, what a pita).
I wasn't able to push the bushing into the ring, but i did (after 30 min or so) put the bushing on the post, and push the ring down around it. Will the help of the back side of my wrench it went on without any more trouble.
anyway, on to my next tinker...
#53
I'm happy to know this thread, and everyone's contributions here, helped out. And I appreciate you saying so.
Yes, those banjo bushings are a total PITA to squeeze in, particular the tranny side of the cable.
Yes, those banjo bushings are a total PITA to squeeze in, particular the tranny side of the cable.
#55
#57
hey guys, i just put in my ES shifter bushings. I didnt go buy a locking nut beforehand so i use thread lock. my question is, however, when i was tightening the front two nuts inside the car, by front i meant the ones towards the engine bay, not towards the rear, it never got tight; so did i strip the bolts?
#58
hey guys, i just put in my ES shifter bushings. I didnt go buy a locking nut beforehand so i use thread lock. my question is, however, when i was tightening the front two nuts inside the car, by front i meant the ones towards the engine bay, not towards the rear, it never got tight; so did i strip the bolts?
I believe all the nuts should tighten. there is only linkage one nut inside the car that you needed to undo.
bottom of the picture.
Last edited by TallTom; 06-27-2011 at 11:25 AM.
#59
I believe he's talking about 2 of the 4 bolts that hold down the entire assembly. In which case, I'd say yes - they're stripped from over-torquing. I have no idea how you'd fix that. Bummer.
Looking at that photo... god damn, I made a mess with the lithium!
Looking at that photo... god damn, I made a mess with the lithium!
#61
#62
Doh, I was running on little sleep when I replied. You are right.
#63
on another note, i might've made the center nut too tight as i would have to push/pull the shifter back into neutral position instead of it "popping back".
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and i used thread lock on that one.
#64
ill check the two forward assembly nuts in two weeks see if i have to use some thread lock on them and i guess ill try some heat to remove the thread-locked center nut to re-tighten it, but not as tight if that makes sense.
oh, thanks guys!
J.
oh, thanks guys!
J.
#66
#67
That's why you should have just used a standard, plastic-lined lock-nut, because you end up adjusting the tension a few times until you're content with the way it feels.
#69
Do these fit the 6th gens? http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.1115
ESP doesn't explicitly say that they do. Anyone (NMex?) know how different the shifter assembly is for the two 6-speeds?
ESP doesn't explicitly say that they do. Anyone (NMex?) know how different the shifter assembly is for the two 6-speeds?
#73
So it's been one week since I swapped the bushings underneath the shifter harness. There's something I've been observing, and I'm kind of confused about it.
Like a lot of 6MT owners, I have the infamous 3rd gear crunch. It's usually not that bad (unless I shift from 2nd gear red-line), but I'm pretty sensitive to it at all speeds. However, over the last 7 days the crunch has been noticeably reduced. Seriously.
I almost didn't want to say anything because it doesn't make a lot of sense, but I swear it's true.
Like a lot of 6MT owners, I have the infamous 3rd gear crunch. It's usually not that bad (unless I shift from 2nd gear red-line), but I'm pretty sensitive to it at all speeds. However, over the last 7 days the crunch has been noticeably reduced. Seriously.
I almost didn't want to say anything because it doesn't make a lot of sense, but I swear it's true.
#74
You know I hear people that talk about that 3rd gear crunch.....I don't have that problem at all in my max......I don't know and I have the ES shift bushings with short shifter. Could it be because of the Stage II Clutch and Fidanza flywheel that is installed?? I don't know......
Not all 5.5 gens have the crunch; I'm guessing 20 - 40%, based on what I've read on the Org. And even if you do, it doesn't always happen. The 2004 manual transmission introduced improvements in the design, which is why when a 5.5 gen owner replaces their transmission, they go with one for a 6.0 gen Maxima.
Last edited by Rochester; 07-03-2011 at 04:32 AM.
#75
Just wanted to bump this thread and say 'Thanks Rochester' for the write-up. Made things a lot easier when compared to the abysmal instructions ES sent with the bushings - LOL.
So yeah, thanks!
So yeah, thanks!
#76
#80