No Intake for 02-03 Maxima?
Yes it's billet aluminum and with a powercoated finish, the resonator keeps it quite subtle mostly what hear is the headers/exhaust @ WOT.... and at part throttle a real low v8 like rumble....My wifey drives the car mostly! So it has to be pretty subtle/stealthy/quiet....I should have done this first instead of blowing my money on that Injen Intake....But I did get a nice MAF adapter out that setup...LOL!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995-...ht_2207wt_1167
this might help
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ir-intake.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ir-intake.html
heres mine.. berk midpipe/maf/maf adapter/apexi (soon being replaced with a R2C) ,.. just sneaks up behind the battery...FWIW i removed the black plastic 'protector' tray on the bottom of the bumper(ground) thats on that side of the car only to allow more air to flow up instead of getting diverted..
and also as a side(-this is a berk made for an altima that i picked up on ebay for~ 40 bucks shipped that i cut down to size with my dremmel)
..if you look close you can see my sts
and also as a side(-this is a berk made for an altima that i picked up on ebay for~ 40 bucks shipped that i cut down to size with my dremmel)
..if you look close you can see my sts

Last edited by mist max2000; Oct 23, 2009 at 10:53 AM.
I don't follow what the airflow benefit is, opening up the fender like that. However, by doing so, you're exposing your fog-light and side-marker connectors to getting soaked by spay on rainy days. You might want to consider sealing them somehow. I don't think electrical tape will suffice.
It's raining today.

Of course, to your point, that area is in the front of the car. Hmmm. I wonder how truly valuable that spash guard really is? Interesting thought, Mist_Max.
Dude, is that a zip-tie holding up your intake?
Actually I think the plastic tray will allow more flow if you keep it on. It will sort of act the same way a venturi valve works. The wind blowing under the car will suck air out of the engine bay as you whip along the road. Removing that plastic tray may hamper that process.

When air travels it will take other air it contacts and bring it with it.
Imagine the bottom hole is the engine bay gap, the top hole is the air flowing over the top of the engine, and the middle hole is where your rad is. The air traveling under the car will help "vacuum" the air out of the engine bay. I could be completely wrong on this but I think the splash shield is more than a splash shield.

When air travels it will take other air it contacts and bring it with it.
Imagine the bottom hole is the engine bay gap, the top hole is the air flowing over the top of the engine, and the middle hole is where your rad is. The air traveling under the car will help "vacuum" the air out of the engine bay. I could be completely wrong on this but I think the splash shield is more than a splash shield.
Last edited by knight_yyz; Oct 23, 2009 at 03:55 PM.
The front splash protector... Ah, I get it now. You're right, that probably would allow for more outside air in the engine bay. I think I would remove that, too, if I never drove the car in the rain.
It's raining today.
Of course, to your point, that area is in the front of the car. Hmmm. I wonder how truly valuable that spash guard really is? Interesting thought, Mist_Max.
Dude, is that a zip-tie holding up your intake?
It's raining today.

Of course, to your point, that area is in the front of the car. Hmmm. I wonder how truly valuable that spash guard really is? Interesting thought, Mist_Max.
Dude, is that a zip-tie holding up your intake?

Actually I think the plastic tray will allow more flow if you keep it on. It will sort of act the same way a venturi valve works. The wind blowing under the car will suck air out of the engine bay as you whip along the road. Removing that plastic tray may hamper that process.
When air travels it will take other air it contacts and bring it with it.
Imagine the bottom hole is the engine bay gap, the top hole is the air flowing over the top of the engine, and the middle hole is where your rad is. The air traveling under the car will help "vacuum" the air out of the engine bay. I could be completely wrong on this but I think the splash shield is more than a splash shield.
When air travels it will take other air it contacts and bring it with it.
Imagine the bottom hole is the engine bay gap, the top hole is the air flowing over the top of the engine, and the middle hole is where your rad is. The air traveling under the car will help "vacuum" the air out of the engine bay. I could be completely wrong on this but I think the splash shield is more than a splash shield.
EDIT: i just re read what you wrote.. so what i said doesnt make sense.. blah. now im confused.. idk.. i think it helps..time to research..
EDIT II: collected my thoughts... see i looked at it as there isnt as much air traveling over the top of the engine and more air is flowing underneith..say 35-65 respectivly... which almost acts as like a parachute effect slamming air up against the hood and firewall.. and providing more air to the open element...providing the best help in airflow at higher speeds..the only downside i can see is a worse mpg because of the lessened aerodynamics..
Thoughts?
..and to rochester about ther rain.. i drive in rain with it like that.. if it ever rained enough where water could get up there and sucked into the engine then there would be bigger problems then hydolock lol
Last edited by mist max2000; Oct 24, 2009 at 07:58 AM.
I don't know about duct-tape... but all I have to do to make my wife's eyes roll back is say, "I can fix that. Let me get the Velcro."

Last edited by Rochester; Oct 24, 2009 at 08:25 AM.
that does look nice.. ive seen something like that before.. did you make it yourself?
edit: if that is yours.. interesting to note that the maf is is at a weird angle..45* if you will,.. as opposed to vertical(oem) ,.. not sure if it really matters in terms of measureing airflow.. just an observation..
edit: if that is yours.. interesting to note that the maf is is at a weird angle..45* if you will,.. as opposed to vertical(oem) ,.. not sure if it really matters in terms of measureing airflow.. just an observation..
Last edited by mist max2000; Oct 24, 2009 at 09:26 AM.
that does look nice.. ive seen something like that before.. did you make it yourself?
edit: if that is yours.. interesting to note that the maf is is at a weird angle..45* if you will,.. as opposed to vertical(oem) ,.. not sure if it really matters in terms of measureing airflow.. just an observation..
edit: if that is yours.. interesting to note that the maf is is at a weird angle..45* if you will,.. as opposed to vertical(oem) ,.. not sure if it really matters in terms of measureing airflow.. just an observation..

The retention bar for the intake came with the Frankencar kit 4 years ago, but I'm thinking you could easily make one with any heavy gauge piece of metal, a vise and a drill.
Is there an advantage to keeping that big plastic resonator box in there, versus getting a straight midpipe?
I've heard that the accordion tube between the resonator and the TB is bad for the flow, but CMax03 replaced it with a straight silicone connector. I've had the resonator on my 4th gen (I assume it's pretty much the same idea) open, and it doesn't seem restrictive at all.
I've heard that the accordion tube between the resonator and the TB is bad for the flow, but CMax03 replaced it with a straight silicone connector. I've had the resonator on my 4th gen (I assume it's pretty much the same idea) open, and it doesn't seem restrictive at all.
Is there an advantage to keeping that big plastic resonator box in there, versus getting a straight midpipe?
I've heard that the accordion tube between the resonator and the TB is bad for the flow, but CMax03 replaced it with a straight silicone connector. I've had the resonator on my 4th gen (I assume it's pretty much the same idea) open, and it doesn't seem restrictive at all.
I've heard that the accordion tube between the resonator and the TB is bad for the flow, but CMax03 replaced it with a straight silicone connector. I've had the resonator on my 4th gen (I assume it's pretty much the same idea) open, and it doesn't seem restrictive at all.
i remember reading somewhere that the 'resonator' allows air to pool up so that pedal response is there more because of the immidate availability of air .. but that could all be bs and it could restrict more then it helps.. who knows..lol
Knight_yyz is your setup loud @ WOT? How about part throttle acceleration is your loud or subtle? Knight_yyz...I can say that this setup really compliments my headers/exhaust/bolt-ons and that alot of guys were partially right regarding the Injen intake not making power. To give clarity on that issue..Injen was an awesome intake everywhere but at the top of the powerband going in to 3rd gear @ WOT where it just seems to flatten out and not accelerate as rapid/quickly as it would in the the midrange! The Injen is just sitting there....for now, don't wanna sell it yet!
Ghost has this intake on his car, and I know he loves it. I have nade about 30 intakes sold locally and to guys in the US, I've done some custom pieces as well with no complaints. It's as loud as a berk with a different tone. I too had an injen and when I was given a berk to try out, I got rid of the injen, and made my own intake, then gave the berk back to my friend.
This is one made by knight_yyz with the short mid pipe as I am running a BPI velocity stack and the over sized AEM dry flow filter, I had previously been running with the longer mid pipe and standard AEM filter which just fits in the opening but found I needed the shorter mid pipe with the velocity stack in there ... knight_yyz has been excellent at making these up for the guy's up here in the Toronto area.
FWIW-i dont think this deserved its own thread..
I recently installed an R2C filter(had to customize it to make it work), and although i dont have any dynos,.. the but dyno says i feel a little more tq,.. the tq feels smoother through out the rpm band and from 2-4k it really smoothed out.. and it pulls pretty good up top,.. tires let go on a hard shift into 3rd,..they wernt doing that before,... but at the same time my old apexi pop charger was dirty and needed to go so a new apexi might have given me the same results..
I recently installed an R2C filter(had to customize it to make it work), and although i dont have any dynos,.. the but dyno says i feel a little more tq,.. the tq feels smoother through out the rpm band and from 2-4k it really smoothed out.. and it pulls pretty good up top,.. tires let go on a hard shift into 3rd,..they wernt doing that before,... but at the same time my old apexi pop charger was dirty and needed to go so a new apexi might have given me the same results..
I have been doing research and wanting to make an intake of my own too. I want to ask where do you guys get your velocity stack? And also is it worth it to go with C2R. I think that technology is similar to the amsoil filter where it has nano-fiber weaver on the outside of the filter surface so no need to oil it.
I think the resonator besides quieting things down, it does give the car a quicker response than without. Of course you sacrifice top end for the low end, because in order to make the car respond better, you need a little bit of back pressure plus a restrictive air intake.
Thanks in advance. Great setups you guys have.
I think the resonator besides quieting things down, it does give the car a quicker response than without. Of course you sacrifice top end for the low end, because in order to make the car respond better, you need a little bit of back pressure plus a restrictive air intake.
Thanks in advance. Great setups you guys have.
Hey folks,
Sorry to bring this thread from the grasps of Fred Fenster but..
I wanted to ask if it maters if you go with the Injen/Amsoil Ea Filters with the stack built in vs. to a standalone stack & 6" filter. The price ratio is almost 2 to 3, respectively so it will definitely help if some people can chime in with experience/opinions.
Sorry to bring this thread from the grasps of Fred Fenster but..
I wanted to ask if it maters if you go with the Injen/Amsoil Ea Filters with the stack built in vs. to a standalone stack & 6" filter. The price ratio is almost 2 to 3, respectively so it will definitely help if some people can chime in with experience/opinions.
Last edited by JiggaD369; Apr 17, 2010 at 06:39 PM.
What are our options for an intake system for these cars?
No Frankencar, Berk anymore.
I currently have the GAB, but want something else, and dont really feel like fabbing something up and not buying an INJEN....and I don't want just a filter after my MAF.
Anybody here make just the midpipe for these cars ?
No Frankencar, Berk anymore.
I currently have the GAB, but want something else, and dont really feel like fabbing something up and not buying an INJEN....and I don't want just a filter after my MAF.
Anybody here make just the midpipe for these cars ?
That's mine and it'll cost you approx. $100 and man does it pull more consistently! You'll have to roundup the parts....
Here's one part you'll need!
Tec 3" MAF aluminum adapter - Cheap alternative for custom intakes (pictures)...
Searching eBay for the normal "Nissan" stuff, I came across some Sentra and 350Z MAF billet aluminum adapter's with 3" opening . I looked them over, did some research and found they are the same design as the Maxima.
Ordered the adapter for $11.90, it was shipped in less than 4 days and I'll let the pictures do the talking...
Tec 3" MAF aluminum adapter - Cheap alternative for custom intakes (pictures)...
Searching eBay for the normal "Nissan" stuff, I came across some Sentra and 350Z MAF billet aluminum adapter's with 3" opening . I looked them over, did some research and found they are the same design as the Maxima.
Ordered the adapter for $11.90, it was shipped in less than 4 days and I'll let the pictures do the talking...
Here's one part you'll need!
Tec 3" MAF aluminum adapter - Cheap alternative for custom intakes (pictures)...
Searching eBay for the normal "Nissan" stuff, I came across some Sentra and 350Z MAF billet aluminum adapter's with 3" opening . I looked them over, did some research and found they are the same design as the Maxima.
Ordered the adapter for $11.90, it was shipped in less than 4 days and I'll let the pictures do the talking...

Tec 3" MAF aluminum adapter - Cheap alternative for custom intakes (pictures)...
Searching eBay for the normal "Nissan" stuff, I came across some Sentra and 350Z MAF billet aluminum adapter's with 3" opening . I looked them over, did some research and found they are the same design as the Maxima.
Ordered the adapter for $11.90, it was shipped in less than 4 days and I'll let the pictures do the talking...

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/p...s/midpipes.jpg
buy one of my shorty tubes for 70 shipped. get rid of the plastic box.
buy one of my shorty tubes for 70 shipped. get rid of the plastic box.
Aem dryflow filter 60 bucks, silicon coupler 10 each x 2, t bolt clamps 15 a set x 2, maf adapter 20 bucks, tig welded mid pipe 50-70 bucks. Grand total 60+20+30+20+50= 180 how is that insane? Velocity stack 40-70 bucks depending on brand and material.
Midpipe has to be cut to length, end faced, deburred, the breather tube has to be cut, end faced and deburred, they have to be welded together square, the whole thing needs to be primed and painted, or polished until it gleams, depending on your taste.
400 for an injen is insane, 200 for a short ram is pretty decent. Now you could cheap out and buy a ****ty ebay paper filter, and buy ****ty gear clamps instead of the nicer looking t bolts, get a plastic maf adapter and save a few bucks. TANSTAAFL
Last edited by knight_yyz; Apr 18, 2010 at 12:49 PM.







