Oil consumption problem
man it is frickin ridiculous though.
My 2000 with 328K burns a quart every 2500 miles, I can tell because it starts pinging, add a quart then change at 5000.
This 2002 with 78K, I added a quart shortly after I got it at 76K. Got a SES yesterday took it straight to my guy.
P0021 code, checked oil, quart down already.
Added quart, cleared code. I figure I better plan on a quart every 1200 miles or so. We'll see, but no excuse for this. Any weights better than others? 10-30 is probably about right for my climate zone.
Is this still an issue with 3.5's today?
My 2000 with 328K burns a quart every 2500 miles, I can tell because it starts pinging, add a quart then change at 5000.
This 2002 with 78K, I added a quart shortly after I got it at 76K. Got a SES yesterday took it straight to my guy.
P0021 code, checked oil, quart down already.
Added quart, cleared code. I figure I better plan on a quart every 1200 miles or so. We'll see, but no excuse for this. Any weights better than others? 10-30 is probably about right for my climate zone.
Is this still an issue with 3.5's today?
What is an issue? The burning or the leaking
man it is frickin ridiculous though.
My 2000 with 328K burns a quart every 2500 miles, I can tell because it starts pinging, add a quart then change at 5000.
This 2002 with 78K, I added a quart shortly after I got it at 76K. Got a SES yesterday took it straight to my guy.
P0021 code, checked oil, quart down already.
Added quart, cleared code. I figure I better plan on a quart every 1200 miles or so. We'll see, but no excuse for this. Any weights better than others? 10-30 is probably about right for my climate zone.
Is this still an issue with 3.5's today?
My 2000 with 328K burns a quart every 2500 miles, I can tell because it starts pinging, add a quart then change at 5000.
This 2002 with 78K, I added a quart shortly after I got it at 76K. Got a SES yesterday took it straight to my guy.
P0021 code, checked oil, quart down already.
Added quart, cleared code. I figure I better plan on a quart every 1200 miles or so. We'll see, but no excuse for this. Any weights better than others? 10-30 is probably about right for my climate zone.
Is this still an issue with 3.5's today?
Unless you count the oil loss from a cracked rear valve cover. Besides that repair, everything is good. Well, I am afflicted with the 3rd gear crunch, and I've blown 2 original ignition coils, 3 sets of rear rotors, and my throttle body valve is about to get replaced...
Karma is a bi.tch.
Some 3.5 's will burn oil, some won't. Mine doesn't, and never has. (knock on wood)
Unless you count the oil loss from a cracked rear valve cover. Besides that repair, everything is good. Well, I am afflicted with the 3rd gear crunch, and I've blown 2 original ignition coils, 3 sets of rear rotors, and my throttle body valve is about to get replaced...
Karma is a bi.tch.
Unless you count the oil loss from a cracked rear valve cover. Besides that repair, everything is good. Well, I am afflicted with the 3rd gear crunch, and I've blown 2 original ignition coils, 3 sets of rear rotors, and my throttle body valve is about to get replaced...
Karma is a bi.tch.
It's a crunch that you feel more than you hear, but like any miss-shift, it can sound nasty if you catch it wrong. A hard shift would grind into 3rd gear, and WOT from 2rd gear redline is pretty much a lost cause.
Some claim minor improvement with better tranny fluid (like MT-90), but that' more of a placebo. I've personally improved things lately by installing ES bushings underneath the shifter assembly. And since that helped (go figure), then I'm thinking the NWP torque link would help, too... anything to make the shift less sloppy, I suppose.
But in the end, it's still a mechanical problem. The 3rd gear syncros have a design flaw, and some people are afflicted by it more than others.
on the OLD L series 6 cylinder motors, they will kinda go through oil like that too, just as you described. on these it's actually the valve-stem seals that leak and let a little oil into the intake valve and exhaust valves. I've even seen a L18 head where the little rubber seal itself slid up the valve stem and was just flowing oil into that cylinder like crazy, talk about the james bond smoke-screen!! when the motor is cold, it does have a very very light smoke to it, but once up to temp it doesn't smoke.. and with the colder weather coming, I've already started to notice a difference. just something to think about......
Did you pull the front plugs or the rear. If the front plugs have oil, it doesn't mean the rears do as well. If they don't, then don't bother with the valve cover.
Cliff: I replaced my rear valve cover with the updated part #132647y00 back in April of this year. I was under it today and noticed oil around the right rear corner. So I lowered the car and took a peek on top of the rear cover itself and sure as ****, there is oil on the top. A defective valve cover!!!
I called up the dealer that sold it to me and they are sending another cover and gasket under warranty.
Cliff: I replaced my rear valve cover with the updated part #132647y00 back in April of this year. I was under it today and noticed oil around the right rear corner. So I lowered the car and took a peek on top of the rear cover itself and sure as ****, there is oil on the top. A defective valve cover!!!
I called up the dealer that sold it to me and they are sending another cover and gasket under warranty.So if the plugs have oil its the valve covers? and if the plugs dont have oil and you are losing oil its probably the piston rings??
Not entirely. It may also be leaking externally. I've ssen it happen before, although not very common. Oil usually makes its way past the tube seals.
I have an 03 Maxima and it uses the oil. It doesnt burn it or leak. For some reason at around 1500 miles I will be a quart low.
It is a little worse in the winter time as well, it still does it in the warmer months but not as drastic.
I tried the STP but it didnt work.
Does enyone else have this problem with there maxima or maybe have heard of this.
Ill take any suggestions because I have asked many people but no luck.
Thanks guys
It is a little worse in the winter time as well, it still does it in the warmer months but not as drastic.
I tried the STP but it didnt work.
Does enyone else have this problem with there maxima or maybe have heard of this.
Ill take any suggestions because I have asked many people but no luck.
Thanks guys
definitely check the rear valve cover gasket. could be the front as-well . the problem is the gaskets are sealed in the cover to replace the gaskets you have to buy the whole cover about 150 dealer part only. your problem is the o rings around each plug, oil wont leak outside of the cover so you have to remove each coil pack to see which is wet with oil. its a long and tedious job took me about 2.5 hours on a saturday. the entire intake has to come off to replace the rear coils, plugs or valve cover gaskets
Mine's always burned oil. Around a quart every 1k miles. It doesn't care if it's warm or cold out, it just loves to eat that oil! It doesn't really bother me too much, but it is the first Maxima I've had that burns oil. What does bother me is I bought it used from a woman. Let's just say I don't think she paid a lot of attention to the oil level.
Why do I think this? The first night I had the car I was going through the glovebox and noticed she had purchased a 100k mile/6 year extended warranty from Nissan on it. I called her to notify her I was sending up the transfer paperwork to her. She told me she had no idea the car had an extended warranty!
Why do I think this? The first night I had the car I was going through the glovebox and noticed she had purchased a 100k mile/6 year extended warranty from Nissan on it. I called her to notify her I was sending up the transfer paperwork to her. She told me she had no idea the car had an extended warranty!
Why do I think this? The first night I had the car I was going through the glovebox and noticed she had purchased a 100k mile/6 year extended warranty from Nissan on it. I called her to notify her I was sending up the transfer paperwork to her. She told me she had no idea the car had an extended warranty!

. I wasn't as lucky as you...
I could be wrong, but it's worth a quick call.
But i didnt get the UIM gasket and was wondering if i should?
I have heard its better to replace it wheb you take it off. Which is the smart thing to do with most gaskets
You've probably heard this before, but now would be an opportune time for intake spacers.
Actually I havent.....what will intake spacers do for me?
In 2002, Nissan started using an aluminum intake manifold for their new 3.5 liter engine, which has the side-effect of acting as a huge heat sink over the engine. Try touching your IM after the engine gets to temperature. You'll burn yourself.
A few years ago, NWP Engineering designed replacements for the IM gaskets made out of Phenolic, which is a very poor conductor of heat. When installed properly, they reduce the temperature of your intake manifold by 40 degrees Fahrenheit, which thereby reduces the temperature of your filtered air. A general rule of thumb is that for every 10 degrees drop in temperature, you see approximately 1% increase in HP. That translates into about a 12 hp increase on our cars, give or take a few points depending on the power curve.
That's the Readers Digest summary. There's lots and lots of information about phenolic intake spacers here on the forum.
A few years ago, NWP Engineering designed replacements for the IM gaskets made out of Phenolic, which is a very poor conductor of heat. When installed properly, they reduce the temperature of your intake manifold by 40 degrees Fahrenheit, which thereby reduces the temperature of your filtered air. A general rule of thumb is that for every 10 degrees drop in temperature, you see approximately 1% increase in HP. That translates into about a 12 hp increase on our cars, give or take a few points depending on the power curve.
That's the Readers Digest summary. There's lots and lots of information about phenolic intake spacers here on the forum.
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