2k2 to 2k1 MAF swap with pictures
#41
Doesn't seem like the thermistor needs to be in the direct path of the "wind" especially since thermistors suspended in air usually have slow response times (>5 seconds)...it just needs to be in the intake tube. If I do mess something up, I'm sure I can grab a 2k Ohm @ 25 Celsius axial, DO-35 packaged thermistor...just gotta figure out the Beta values & other specs.
After a few quick measurements I believe the IAT thermistor is Honeywell part number 135-202FAG-J01 (http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.c...1&pr_id=145443). Although my reference temperature measurement was a little suspect (Fluke multimeter gave a continually decreasing value). I have a few of these on order and will try with the new MAF.
I'm surprised someone here hasn't made a side business out of supplying upgraded $90 MAF's to 5.5 Gen'ers. That thermistor is all of 0.69 cents. (Or according to Nissan, a full $300. )
So... do you know for sure what that part is exactly?
2Slow, where are you on this?
Last edited by Rochester; 12-05-2009 at 11:28 AM.
#42
Guys, I don't understand any of that except that you're trying to identify the IAT wire/sensor as a stand-alone part, right? If I could Radio Shack the IAT sensor all by itself, that makes buying a 2001 MAF a reasonable precautionary purchase, because I wouldn't have to cannibalize the original MAF.
I'm just a guy with a multimeter that doesn't want to destroy my sub-optimal, but still functional MAF in the quest to resolve my Maxima's driveability issues. I also get to increase my post count. Would you like a glamour photo?
Last edited by 2slow; 12-05-2009 at 02:24 PM.
#43
But seriously, thanks, 2slow. Keep up the good work, and keep us informed.
We're on the same page here: "...doesn't want to destroy my sub-optimal, but still functional MAF in the quest to resolve my Maxima's driveability issues."
#45
Preliminary report:
The new thermistor is a larger size than that of the original MAF. I have no idea of the original thermistors size as I cannot find common ones smaller than DO-35.
The new thermistor measured a little different from original. About 0.35 kilo-ohm different at at near freezing temperatures. Using a scan tool post installation, the new thermistor measured 4 degree Celsius less than the original at room temperature.
Overall, cold start driveability seems unaffected by the new thermistor and the hesitation at ~3800 rpm and throttle application above 50% is gone.
I will update this thread with more long term findings (greater than one days worth), a few more measurements and pictures in a week or two.
The new thermistor is a larger size than that of the original MAF. I have no idea of the original thermistors size as I cannot find common ones smaller than DO-35.
The new thermistor measured a little different from original. About 0.35 kilo-ohm different at at near freezing temperatures. Using a scan tool post installation, the new thermistor measured 4 degree Celsius less than the original at room temperature.
Overall, cold start driveability seems unaffected by the new thermistor and the hesitation at ~3800 rpm and throttle application above 50% is gone.
I will update this thread with more long term findings (greater than one days worth), a few more measurements and pictures in a week or two.
#48
Lower IAT should increase the cold start enrichment (more fuel), which will likely not significant affect driveability (although emissions will go up). I can't think of other ways which the IAT values can affect the controller's logic; anyone have any thoughts?
I must recheck the IAT values between the thermistors with another scan tool as the one used has issues with ISO9141 vehicles.
EDIT: the car also seems to make a little more power (maybe 10 hp) with disappearance of the driveability fault. Dyno chart showing fault (I think):
I must recheck the IAT values between the thermistors with another scan tool as the one used has issues with ISO9141 vehicles.
EDIT: the car also seems to make a little more power (maybe 10 hp) with disappearance of the driveability fault. Dyno chart showing fault (I think):
Last edited by 2slow; 12-17-2009 at 08:05 PM.
#49
Excellent write up ridinwitha35 ! I Just Received my 2000-2001 Maf (22680-2Y001) from Conicelli. Their price was 77.69$ !! I ordered a bunch of other parts using this site for Part Numbers: (http://nissan4u.com/parts/). They ship fast and service is great.
Thank you again for those awesome pictures! Ill be heading out to the garage in a minute and swap this thing in no time!
Thank you again for those awesome pictures! Ill be heading out to the garage in a minute and swap this thing in no time!
#50
Excellent write up ridinwitha35 ! I Just Received my 2000-2001 Maf (22680-2Y001) from Conicelli. Their price was 77.69$ !! I ordered a bunch of other parts using this site for Part Numbers: (http://nissan4u.com/parts/). They ship fast and service is great.
Thank you again for those awesome pictures! Ill be heading out to the garage in a minute and swap this thing in no time!
Thank you again for those awesome pictures! Ill be heading out to the garage in a minute and swap this thing in no time!
Why are you swapping the MAF? Is this a precautionary measure, or has it failed?
#51
As for the Maf swap, I had the very good idea of cleaning my K$N and re-oil it just before leaving to work....
Since then, gas mileage was horrible. I don't think it was worth the hassle of cleaning it when this swap is so easy and cheap.
Swap is done by the way. The car started just fine, but it was bogging severely when trying to raise the rpm. I let it sit at idle for a few minutes. I could tell the maf was not returning what the ecu was expecting, it smelled a lot richer than usual on start up and then started to performe some adjustments on its own, the idle was changing. Everything got fine within 5 minutes. Once the engine reached normal operating temperature I have reset the ECU with the gas pedal sequence procedure. Ill get to drive it a bit more today and will let you know.
#52
The new thermistor is a larger size than that of the original MAF. I have no idea of the original thermistors size as I cannot find common ones smaller than DO-35.
The new thermistor measured a little different from original. About 0.35 kilo-ohm different at at near freezing temperatures. Using a scan tool post installation, the new thermistor measured 4 degree Celsius less than the original at room temperature.
The new thermistor measured a little different from original. About 0.35 kilo-ohm different at at near freezing temperatures. Using a scan tool post installation, the new thermistor measured 4 degree Celsius less than the original at room temperature.
Swap is done by the way. The car started just fine, but it was bogging severely when trying to raise the rpm. I let it sit at idle for a few minutes. I could tell the maf was not returning what the ecu was expecting, it smelled a lot richer than usual on start up and then started to performe some adjustments on its own, the idle was changing. Everything got fine within 5 minutes. Once the engine reached normal operating temperature I have reset the ECU with the gas pedal sequence procedure. Ill get to drive it a bit more today and will let you know.
#53
Swap is done by the way. The car started just fine, but it was bogging severely when trying to raise the rpm. I let it sit at idle for a few minutes. I could tell the maf was not returning what the ecu was expecting, it smelled a lot richer than usual on start up and then started to performe some adjustments on its own, the idle was changing. Everything got fine within 5 minutes. Once the engine reached normal operating temperature I have reset the ECU with the gas pedal sequence procedure. Ill get to drive it a bit more today and will let you know.
This concerns me...interested in seeing how it plays out. Might have to do an idle relearn, but if it's bogging when giving it gas, I'd make sure everything is connected back up & double check the p/n of what you received. If you have an OBD scan tool, looking at the MAF measurements might be of use.
#54
Ok I guess I've been misunderstood. The car only bogged for the very few seconds after startup. The only explaination I have is that the fuel trims were out of wack due to the old maf having an erratic reading. Now the car act as normal and even better.
I can feel a lot more power in the low range of RPM's. The usual miss at around 3000 rpm when flooring it has disapeared. Idle is smoother.
Gas mileage will be measured over christmas holiday.
Best mod I've done so far on the Max!
I can feel a lot more power in the low range of RPM's. The usual miss at around 3000 rpm when flooring it has disapeared. Idle is smoother.
Gas mileage will be measured over christmas holiday.
Best mod I've done so far on the Max!
Last edited by ColtMax; 12-21-2009 at 05:51 AM.
#55
Ok I guess I've been misunderstood. The car only bogged for the very few seconds after startup. The only explaination I have is that the fuel trims were out of wack due to the old maf having an erratic reading. Now the car act as normal and even better.
I can feel a lot more power in the low range of RPM's. The usual miss at around 3000 rpm when flooring it has disapeared. Idle is smoother.
Gas mileage will be measured over christmas holiday.
Best mod I've done so far on the Max!
I can feel a lot more power in the low range of RPM's. The usual miss at around 3000 rpm when flooring it has disapeared. Idle is smoother.
Gas mileage will be measured over christmas holiday.
Best mod I've done so far on the Max!
#59
#60
#62
Does your Maxima show fuel economy as liters per 100 kilometers?
#63
#65
This probably isn't an item your local NAPA store would stock, so you'd have to order it. And I guess you'd need to clear with them up front that if it doesn't come set up for the 5.5 gen, then you're going to refuse purchase.
[edit] I just did a zipcode search for NAPA. They're all rural locations 15-25 miles away. Hmm.
Last edited by Rochester; 12-24-2009 at 11:09 AM.
#66
Winter fuel composition adjustments will cause a reduction in fuel economy. Also, if you now have E10 (10% ethanol fuel) but had no ethanol in '08, there will be another fuel economy reduction in your comparison.
Does your Maxima show fuel economy as liters per 100 kilometers?
Does your Maxima show fuel economy as liters per 100 kilometers?
i use shell premium. the car seems to be drinking more fuel than before
#68
Excellent write up ridinwitha35 ! I Just Received my 2000-2001 Maf (22680-2Y001) from Conicelli. Their price was 77.69$ !! I ordered a bunch of other parts using this site for Part Numbers: (http://nissan4u.com/parts/). They ship fast and service is great.
Thank you again for those awesome pictures! Ill be heading out to the garage in a minute and swap this thing in no time!
Thank you again for those awesome pictures! Ill be heading out to the garage in a minute and swap this thing in no time!
#69
If you have a 5.5gen and want to spend $400+ and be done, get the 22680-AM600
All else, get the 22680-2Y001, but note that on a 5.5gen, "installation" will take a couple minutes longer since you swap over a part off the old MAF.
#72
5th Gen: 2000-2001 Max & I30 [VQ30DE-K]
5.5 Gen: 2002-2003 Max, 2002-2004 I35 [VQ35DE]
The swapping procedure is not necessary on 5th gens, but MAF removal might be the same, but don't quote me on that.
I always laugh to myself when I hear people saying things along those lines. I know this site is for "Maxima enthusiasts" but to me, eh, it's just the car I drive.
5.5 Gen: 2002-2003 Max, 2002-2004 I35 [VQ35DE]
The swapping procedure is not necessary on 5th gens, but MAF removal might be the same, but don't quote me on that.
I always laugh to myself when I hear people saying things along those lines. I know this site is for "Maxima enthusiasts" but to me, eh, it's just the car I drive.
Last edited by ridinwitha35; 12-26-2009 at 11:12 AM.
#73
#74
So, I'm more about fixing than modding; kind of explains why my sig is about stuff I fixed/need-to-fix vs. a list of mods & aesthetic improvements. But it's all good, though I may not be a "Maxima enthusiast", I'm enthusiastic about being able to fix my Maxima...er, I35.
#78
ok so let me get this straight.. i just wanrt to be 100% sure.
if my max has a hesitation at around 3500-4000 anf then all of the sudden returns and i only feel this in 3rd gear.. not sure if 4th also but dont feel it in 1st or 2nd. all we need to do is get the 2001 maf sensor, take our 5.5 or in my case 03 sensor, remove the thermister and transfer it to the new (read:just bought) 2001 sensor, reinstall and have a nice day... and the hesitation should be gone. am i correct in this thinking..?
if my max has a hesitation at around 3500-4000 anf then all of the sudden returns and i only feel this in 3rd gear.. not sure if 4th also but dont feel it in 1st or 2nd. all we need to do is get the 2001 maf sensor, take our 5.5 or in my case 03 sensor, remove the thermister and transfer it to the new (read:just bought) 2001 sensor, reinstall and have a nice day... and the hesitation should be gone. am i correct in this thinking..?
#79
ok so let me get this straight.. i just wanrt to be 100% sure.
if my max has a hesitation at around 3500-4000 anf then all of the sudden returns and i only feel this in 3rd gear.. not sure if 4th also but dont feel it in 1st or 2nd. all we need to do is get the 2001 maf sensor, take our 5.5 or in my case 03 sensor, remove the thermister and transfer it to the new (read:just bought) 2001 sensor, reinstall and have a nice day... and the hesitation should be gone. am i correct in this thinking..?
if my max has a hesitation at around 3500-4000 anf then all of the sudden returns and i only feel this in 3rd gear.. not sure if 4th also but dont feel it in 1st or 2nd. all we need to do is get the 2001 maf sensor, take our 5.5 or in my case 03 sensor, remove the thermister and transfer it to the new (read:just bought) 2001 sensor, reinstall and have a nice day... and the hesitation should be gone. am i correct in this thinking..?
What's with the politics in your sig? Pissing off thin skinned liberals and stroking the crazy with candy. I don't get it.
#80
ive read the hesitation can be from the coils as well, but it seems everyone that has this hesitation changes the maf and the problem disappears. how would you deciefer bewtween the two on which one is wrong.
the sig.. i believe he is trying to turn our country into another ussr where if you have money and arent relying on the government that you should help out the less fortunate.. read: people who sit on there lazy a$$ to recieve checks from the goverment, welfare and unemployment..basically tax you and as well as trying to take away our civil rights and freedoms. But thats for a whole different post over at the off topics area. http://www.americanthinker.com/2009/...ia_1.html:eek: