Yikes! Some might call that a big double-dose of crazy.

But it's a big forum, so all aboard. Good luck with that, man.

 

hahahah some look at it that way. but there are all different views (although mine is the correct one.. hahah .. just kidding)

seriously. if you dont have access to a scan tool how would you tell if it is the maf or coils. also if you do have the scan tools how would you tell what the problem is if it only does it in 3rd at 3.5-4k and not while sitting tinkering with the scan tool..?

 

Yes, I just went from 11.x L / 100 to 8.4 l /100 and this is winter driving.

www.conicelli.com

 

VERY IMPORTANT***

For the TRUE experts on this matter,

Will a MAF (22680-2Y001) work on an INFINITI 2003 G35 sedan or coupe by just swapping the thermistor?

2003 G35 sedans and maybe coupes use the 22680-AM600, same as the 2002-2003 MAXIMAS...

Is my assumption correct?

 

Since we've found these MAF's are interchangeable for the Maxima, it stands to reason they can be substituted in any application.

 

I just needed to thank you all for saving me some hard earned cash.
I just replaced my broken MAF sensor with MAF(#226802Y001) on my '02.
Switched the IAT wire over. It worked like a charm.

A special thanks to ridinwitha35 for the excellent pictures and write up !!~ Bought the part for $103 at my local Nissan dealership.

 

What year MAX do you have?

 

I spoke to soon this morning. Popped Code P0113 IAT after Driving 25 Miles to work. Vehicle drove fine all day.
When I got back home I pulled the MAF Sensor out and discovered I had not clamped the IAT Thermistor on securely enough on to the new MAF(226802Y001). It was loose inside the metal clips. Clamped them in tighter and wiggled them with a small pair of needle nose pliers. Secured now.
We'll see in the am if I popped any tomorrow.

Thanks again to all.

 

Try soldering the IAT in place.

 

I believe I have fixed it. It was def loose and now its def not.
If I have an issue tomorrow I will be soldering it.

 

Solder it and be done with it!

 

Strange I picked up a news MAF and now that I can look at the MAF which came from my car with a K&N filter, I can see the wire screen is COVERED with black dust.

Since installing a new MAF/tube and not understanding the underlying cause for the black dust, I am sure it'll manage to kill this used MAF.

Anyone else experience the same thing?

 

Lose the K&N filter and see if you still get the black dust. I'm willing to bet you won't.

 

K&N creating the black dust? Coming from the oil?

 

The one side of the K&N filter over time becomes darkened, might be from the filter oil but might be another problem. Only reason I can think of for something to go dark like that is the same thing that happens when you bbq meat and it burns...carbon.

 

Just a theory, but as the filter gets dirty the oil in the filter darkens just like the engine oil. Any fine particulate that makes it through the darkened oil will also be dark.

 

I'm gonna go ahead and do this. I feel the low end is lacking and power is not consistent, I've owned an 02 Altima with the 3.5 and manual trans, and it was definitely faster than my '02 Max feels now.

Gonna chalk it up to the tired MAF sensor and hope the '00 MAF fixes this for me. (Also somewhat crappy mileage)

 

Is it possible the temp difference is due to the old sensor being out of wack from being old and worn? Im sure the ECU has some type of adjustments for fault tolerance.

 

Are you using the high octane gasoline? And where exactly do you see the power lacking?

 

I always used high octane gas in my VQ engines. The PO used regular, its now had 4 tanks of premium.

I really think its just less powerful than my last car throughout the entire RPM range, but most of the lacking power is under 4K.

As some people've said. The MAF when it totally fails doesn't let the car rev really at all, but when its tired or crusty/dirty you just get a general lack of performance. Which is what I think Im suffering from.

Oh ,forgot to mention, I saw Napa mentioned in this thread. I called them. $585 (CDN) for a '00 MAF.

LOL!

Ordering from Courtesy...

 

Tagged in case I ever need this thread!

 

Ah so you are going to do the part swap from the broken 2002 MAF onto the new 2000 MAF? I was going to mention there is a write up for doing that, haha sucks being sleepy.

 

wen u do this swap, the power remains the same correct? it doesnt matter on the year of the maf , does it? i mean like they arent designed for a specific year, car, or engine..

 

It has to be compatible, but the MAF sensor in question that is less, is also an SR20 MAF sensor according to the information I found. So you could also get the Sensors from B15 Sentras with the SR20 engine, and Infiniti G20's of the same generation.

Maxima, 00-01
Infiniti I30, 00-01
Sentra SE2.0, 00-01
Infiniti G20, 00-01

 

just curious question my MAF from my stock 2000 didn't have a IAT wire on it and the replacement didn't either....do you need the IAT wire ? Should I have one?

 

No you should not need the IAT on your year.

 

The "black dust" you refer to with K&N filters is often caused by user error (ie. over-oiling the filter). Since the K&N filters are reusable, once they get dirty/black, they can be cleaned and reused. They come with a cleaning solution and a re-oiling solution/spray...the oil helps catch the particles in the air and turns black over time as it filters the air and catches dirt/dust/etc. If you reoil them too heavily, as the high speed air is passing through the filter, the oil gets lifted off the filter and ends up on the screen on the front of the MAF (ie. the black dust, as you refered to it), the MAF sensor, the IAT Thermistor and anything else the air flows over.

The solution is either 1) get rid of the K&N filter or 2) be careful not to over oil the filter.

Hope this helps.
Pete

Ridinwitha35 - killer writeup...I already bought an '01 MAF (along with some other parts) from DaveB but hadn't done the swap yet because I've only got mild hesitation between 3k-3.5k and average ~21mpg combined. After seeing the pics in your writeup, I'll knock it out in no time this weekend and hopefully it will take care of the hesitation and bump up the mileage. Appreciate it bud!

And to 2slow and others trying to figure out the right thermistor for the swap, keep up the good work...making the world a better (and less expensive) place!

 

For a 2k1, can u directly replace this IAT sensor and thats that? no changing wires or anything?

if this is the case, i will be purchasing one online and doing this soon. Please let me know

 

For 2k1, you just buy the $90 MAF, and install it. this thread is for making the MAF for your car, work on a 2k2+.

 

yeah i get that but i have an aftermarket intake on my 2k1 so im assuming that the wire with the sensor on it was the IAT (which was originally in the top of the snorkel), which is now just hanging near the battery. So what im saying is that if i were to add on this IAT ordered online or such and installed it on the MAF, would i need to make any changes to the MAF connector as it wasn't meant for the IAT sensor to be on the MAF.

 

Great thread, thanks!

 

So I wanted to let people know of another potential MAF swap, not just the 00-01 Maxima for the 5.5 gen.

You can also use a G20 MAF from a newer G20, I believe 00-02. I pulled a MAF from the wreckers from a 01 or 02 G20 with the SR20 engine, and soldered the thermistor wire onto the donor MAF, which looked 100% identical minus the thermistor not being there, and plugged it into my car after a cleaning. Works perfect, no CEL, pulls strong. I think it works better than the MAF it replaced.

Hope that helps anyone... So next time you're at a wreckers, you can look for a G20, not just a Maxima.

 

A 4-cyl Infiniti? What in the world made you think to try that? Amazing.

I wonder what a 2002 G20 MAF would cost new?

 

Yeah, a 4cyl Infiniti!
Its an SR20DE engine, which G20's have always had, even since 91 or whenever they first started in North America.

The MAF is exactly the same as the VQ30/35. Just minus the thermistor.

I tried it cause it looked the same when I did some searching online. I saw one at the wreckers and pulled it. It looked the same as mine, so I did the swap. That was a few hundred K ago. Working perfect!

Do you want some comparison pics? I'd be happy to pull it out of the MAF housing and snap some pics.

 

No, that's OK. That seems a pretty ballsy piece of guesswork. The MAF has some serious circuitry inside, which is why I'm shocked it was interchangeable.

This must mean a number of Nissan/Infiniti cars are using the same sensor, and it's up to the ECU on the respective vehicles to interpret the data appropriate for each car. That makes a lot more sense from a manufacturing POV than designing a new MAF to spec for each model.

 

As far as I can tell, its only late model (00+) SR20DE's that will interchange, other than the ones we already know of (00-03 maxima, assume Altima, etc)

That means the Sentra SE 2.0 with the same SR20DE engine will also work, from the same years of course (only 00,01 I believe)

And if I find one, I'll make sure to test the theory. Despite being a lot of "stuff" inside the MAF, its job is one thing, so that's probably why it works on other cars, barring the plug/fitment is the same of course.

If you think of it, price a MAF for the G20, and see what the dealer says... Being as its the same as the VQ30 MAF, it should be the same price I'd think.

 

The B15 ('00+) Sentra SR20DE MAF is listed as an interchange with the VQ30 Maxima MAF, so the G20 should be the same. Although this is listed as a $380 sensor rather than the aforementioned <$100 sensor.

http://nissan4u.com/parts/info/22680AD200/

 

That's kind of what I figured. It makes sense to manufacture the same parts for different cars, but it's not likely they would charge the same. Particularly in light of what we've learned about the 5.0 vs. 5.5 MAF and the IAT swap.

 

The VQ30 Maxima and G20 MAFs are listed at the same price, but that price is ~$380. I couldn't find a price on the <$100 22680-2Y001 unless I searched specifically for that part number, which then doesn't list an application.

So it seems they are all interchangeable (22680-2Y001, -AD201, & -AM600) where the -2Y001 is the cost leader.

 

I did this today.

It was like 10min to do, and worth it.

My acceleration is smooth and quick like it used to be, no stumble at 2500-3000rpm like before, idle is smoother, and lower, and I got my get up and go back