Well... I know this is completely out there, and I hope I don't get flammed for this. I'm just looking to see if anyone out there with similar mods has dyno'd their car and seen where the peak is at. I'm assuming it's no longer at redline lol...

Here's a list of my mods..

vias delete,
Gab(I like the smoothe pull stock gives)
deleted res and cat, glasspack however atm.
Obx headers with y.
Stock 2.25 exhaust pipping.

Anyone have an idea where my peak would be around? I'm kinda guessing it's near impossible to assume because everything is a variable in these cases, but just looking for a ball park estimate. I haven't had my car dyno'd yet or tuned becausse i'm planning on getting the i.m spacer kit in about a month, than looking to get a dyno'd/tuned all at once..

Thanks again

 

Go dyno it. Your cat-back is holding you back.

 

even if not a catback, get a bpipe. There are gains to be had with a 2.5" bpipe over stock. The stock axleback, however, is pretty free flowing so you should be ok with that.

 

with I/H/E i peaked around redline according to my dyno

 

The computer starts to close the throttle as you get close to redline causing it to lose torque. I usually shift about 500 RPM before redline. That avoids the torque loss and still puts it into the sweet spot of power after the shift.

I've done a good bit of Drag racing with this car. Well over 100 passes in the 1/8 and 1/4. I've raced it from stock to the current setup. My best times have always been when I shift before redline. Also, don't take your foot all the way out of it when you shift. Just bring it to around 1/2 throttle.

 

did you not read what I said?... anyways...

Runnin on street tires I can easily get in alot faster than most people... but that usually leaves my tires spinning in second. I've been shifting around 500 till redline, so Hopefully it stays strong around there.

 

Like the other dude said, dyno it and then see, but for now just stick with 6500rpm.

I also have problems with the 1-2 shift, but I have yet to get my car to a track. Waiting for it to warm up first.

 

redline first,short-shift second, and go almost to redline in 3rd.

 

my shift light is set at 6200

 

I'm no 6spd guy but I do shift my auto, and I try to do 1-2 at about 6300rpms... idk if the same goes for 6spds

 

Sorry for the slight thread jack but, would there be any gains to be made by shifting at the torque peak instead of the hp peak? I am no racer by any means but to an extent doesn't hp affect the trap speed and the tq affect the time itself? I'm an auto, so what do I know? But this is what I've heard before and I am just curious if there's any merit to it...

 

No.

You gain more by staying in the lower gear (with its greater multiplication of whatever torque exists) than you lose by having less torque at the higher revs. It's an "area under the power curve" thing, and long story short, you want to be centered around peak power rather than peak torque.

Peak torque rpm is where the best acceleration in any one specific gear is maximized. That is not the same thing as maximim acceleration at that road speed. Don't get the two confused. Better acceleration at road speed is what wins races.

Centering your driving around peak torque is probably more fuel-efficient performance, but the actual performance will always be less.

Shifting AT peak torque throws away the high side of the torque peak and gives you the lower torque further down on the low side.


Transmission type doesn't matter too much, although if that's all you've ever driven it's less likely that you've developed a good "feel" for where the engine might really want to be shifted at for best performance. It's really easy for most people to just let the AT do its thing instead of calling all the shots directly, and the inevitable lag between you calling for a shift and the AT actually getting the job done doesn't help.

Quarter mile performance stats are roughly cube root functions of peak power (HP) divided by weight. Beyond that, trap speed is more closely about HP, and ET is more about launch grip and technique.


Norm

 

Norm: Appreciate the insight and thanks for not flaming me, lol.

 

what do you mean free flowing?

 

He means that the stock muffler isn't restrictive. It's a pretty decent muffler.

There is a new thread about it somewhere that shows the inside of it and shows the dual stage design.

The b-pipe however, has a kink in it right after the resonator, so getting an aftermarket b-pipe will have better gains.