What are the Maxima's best mods for $1000?
02-04-2010, 05:45 AM
#41
The OP already said he wants a quiet & comfortable ride. That pretty much rules out most cat-backs; certainly headers. And as for comfortable... that rules out solid poly motor mount bushings, and coilovers. I would think his budget rules out coilovers, anyway.
Based on his stated priorities and budget, I'd say:
Based on his stated priorities and budget, I'd say:
- Phenolic Intake Spacers
- VIAS-Delete Block Plate
- Short Ram Intake (which is only loud at full throttle)
- Rear Sway Bar
- Front Strut Tower Brace
Respectfully disagree on the coilover point though. The Tein SS that I've been riding on have been the most comfortable non-OEM set up I've tried. I've had Tokico Blues and Illuminas paired with H-techs and Progress, and have ridden in Maximas with Eibachs and H&Rs. I think the key is the suspension travel limitation, or lack of with coilovers, and a proper set up. With the correct spring rates and damper settings, and the assumption that the car isn't going to be slammed, coilovers can provide an extremely comfortable ride. The Teins have also proven to be durable and don't require excessive maintenance. I've heard good things about the BC Racing coilovers, which are much more affordable than the Teins and JICs.
I definitely agree that motor mount inserts are not going to help, which is why I only suggested sway bar and shifter bushings as good starter mods that you can feel.
Headers will depend - ask anyone who has ridden or heard my car with headers + Frankencar catback or even a Maxima with headers + b-pipe + stock muffler - you can barely tell it has an aftermarket exhaust, its about the same volume as a stock G/Z. Of course, slap on a straight through muffler like Cattman or Megan and it will be deafening, no matter how big your resonator is.
02-04-2010, 05:53 AM
#42
I'm going to go OT for a moment and continue this line about ES bushings on the FSB. In April, I'm having HP Blues installed (w/OEM springs), and was at one point considering replacing the FSB end-links at the same time. And... if replacing the end-links, I was going to replace the FSB bushings as well. Well, after much discussion here, I backed off on that plan, under the premise that if it's not broken, don't fix it. (Ditto for the ball joints, and tie-rod ends.)
So (big lead-in, huh?) my OT moment to you, PuppetMaster: do you really think replacing the 23mm bushings on the SE's FSB is worth the effort? And if so, would I need to replace the end-links anyway, since the FSB has to be taken down?
Last edited by Rochester; 02-04-2010 at 06:01 AM.
02-04-2010, 08:27 AM
#43
The front sway bar need not be removed to replace the end links. Also, replacing the sway bar bushings is not terribly difficult (lift car, remove front wheels, remove bushing holder thingy), so if they become a problem they can be easily replaced later. Therefore, I'd leave them alone.
Final note, the ES sway bar bushings are likely a minimal improvement, perhaps unnoticeable if the current bushings are not worn out.
02-04-2010, 09:43 AM
#47
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[quote=avciugroar;7404688]Everyone, thanks for all--err... MOST of the posts, you guys are really helpful.
Lets see, priorities... #1 would be better straight-line acceleration. #2 would be better handling. I would want to put more money in acceleration than handling, but still do something...
Headers and exhaust would be a great improvement, but I REALLY want to stay away from having a car that can be heard, I love a car thats fast and totally quiet. When you say have a cut out welded with the headers, where exactly are you talking?
Remember, you're helping an inexperienced person here. I've just learned a little bit by reading, and not hands on!
quote]
I hear ya on the headers making too much noise, but Im thinking that if you stick the with OEM Muffler, you shouldnt have a problem. Thats something that a mechanic told me. Although it might kick up the noise a bit, it wont sound like a rice burner or anything.
Im like you chief. Although I work for a Dealership (Ford/Subaru) and have ever since I started selling parts (6 yrs now), all I know is dealer items and this and that. I would love to find a way to make my max sound like a 350Z though. I personally am about to get the front cat (cause its going out) and going to get headers whenever i get my income tax in. Also going with some Tokico struts cause my car needs them.
Let us know!!!
Lets see, priorities... #1 would be better straight-line acceleration. #2 would be better handling. I would want to put more money in acceleration than handling, but still do something...
Headers and exhaust would be a great improvement, but I REALLY want to stay away from having a car that can be heard, I love a car thats fast and totally quiet. When you say have a cut out welded with the headers, where exactly are you talking?
Remember, you're helping an inexperienced person here. I've just learned a little bit by reading, and not hands on!
quote]
I hear ya on the headers making too much noise, but Im thinking that if you stick the with OEM Muffler, you shouldnt have a problem. Thats something that a mechanic told me. Although it might kick up the noise a bit, it wont sound like a rice burner or anything.
Im like you chief. Although I work for a Dealership (Ford/Subaru) and have ever since I started selling parts (6 yrs now), all I know is dealer items and this and that. I would love to find a way to make my max sound like a 350Z though. I personally am about to get the front cat (cause its going out) and going to get headers whenever i get my income tax in. Also going with some Tokico struts cause my car needs them.
Let us know!!!
02-04-2010, 09:55 AM
#48
In fact, I've never encountered a sway bar bushing that wasn't split as all bars (except multi-piece) have bends which would cause problems sliding a close-fit bushing over.
02-04-2010, 10:13 AM
#49
I don't know what application those ES bushings are for, but the lower pictures (stock replacement) are split. You can see the seam on the side of the bushing towards the back.
In fact, I've never encountered a sway bar bushing that wasn't split as all bars (except multi-piece) have bends which would cause problems sliding a close-fit bushing over.
In fact, I've never encountered a sway bar bushing that wasn't split as all bars (except multi-piece) have bends which would cause problems sliding a close-fit bushing over.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.5125
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...od=MOOG-K90587
The second set that you recognized are called "FSB Frame Bushings", and apply to all model maximas... and you're right, they aren't ES, they're MOOG parts. The first set comes in 22mm and 23mm apertures, because the SE model uses a slightly thicker FSB, and those are Energy Suspension parts.
I haven't gotten under the car yet to scope any of this out. That happens next month.
(OP, sorry about this. I think this segue is almost played out.)
02-04-2010, 10:36 AM
#50
Back on topic, so that I'm not just a complete post *****...
bigpopaj369 just made a brilliant suggestion in another thread that the OP might find interesting with regard to mods: Upgrade the audio system.
bigpopaj369 just made a brilliant suggestion in another thread that the OP might find interesting with regard to mods: Upgrade the audio system.
02-04-2010, 01:56 PM
#52
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
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The OP already said he wants a quiet & comfortable ride. That pretty much rules out most cat-backs; certainly headers. And as for comfortable... that rules out solid poly motor mount bushings, and coilovers. I would think his budget rules out coilovers, anyway.
Based on his stated priorities and budget, I'd say:
Based on his stated priorities and budget, I'd say:
- Phenolic Intake Spacers - $250 cost; $150 install
- VIAS-Delete Block Plate - $40
- Short Ram Intake (which is only loud at full throttle) - $100 to $200
- Rear Sway Bar - $150
- Front Strut Tower Brace - $30 to $100
- Short-throw Shifter Kit - $50
- Shifter Bushings - $30
So now, I can do all these less-expensive mods (RSB FSTB STS etc) or I can just go big and get some Teins... big decision
Does anyone know how to get Boss Chens these days? Larrio hasnt been on the org since Jan 08...
I hear ya on the headers making too much noise, but Im thinking that if you stick the with OEM Muffler, you shouldnt have a problem. Thats something that a mechanic told me. Although it might kick up the noise a bit, it wont sound like a rice burner or anything.
Im like you chief. Although I work for a Dealership (Ford/Subaru) and have ever since I started selling parts (6 yrs now), all I know is dealer items and this and that. I would love to find a way to make my max sound like a 350Z though. I personally am about to get the front cat (cause its going out) and going to get headers whenever i get my income tax in. Also going with some Tokico struts cause my car needs them.
Let us know!!!
Im like you chief. Although I work for a Dealership (Ford/Subaru) and have ever since I started selling parts (6 yrs now), all I know is dealer items and this and that. I would love to find a way to make my max sound like a 350Z though. I personally am about to get the front cat (cause its going out) and going to get headers whenever i get my income tax in. Also going with some Tokico struts cause my car needs them.
Let us know!!!
and if I stick with the stock muffler, but get headers, will that even help? Isnt it true that if theres a full exhaust system on there, say 3", but theres a 2" (or whatever the stock diameter is) muffler, the air wont flow like it should?
Back on topic, so that I'm not just a complete post *****... bigpopaj369 just made a brilliant suggestion in another thread that the OP might find interesting with regard to mods: Upgrade the audio system.
bigpopaj369 just made a brilliant suggestion in another thread that the OP might find interesting with regard to mods: Upgrade the audio system.
Audio system has already been upgraded... that was the first thing I did! I put a JVC KW-NX7000, and two 10's I already had, and it kicks pretty well. Im still searching for that color that matches the TE silver on the inside to paint the trim... I already tried to paint it, and while its still not even close, its much better than it was before...
GAB (free), NWP intake spacers and block plate, timing bump to 17 degrees, rear anti-roll bar, FSTB and OBX headers.
02-04-2010, 02:09 PM
#53
If you want straight line accel but not loud here is what you need:
Short Ram Intake
OBX Equal length headers
NWP VIAS Delete and Intake spacers
Those items should net in or around $1000 total, will give you some real nice gain and will still be pretty quiet if you keep the stock muffler.
I have all of those exept the spacers and the gains are very nice, the car is not loud exept it has a nice growl at WOT
Short Ram Intake
OBX Equal length headers
NWP VIAS Delete and Intake spacers
Those items should net in or around $1000 total, will give you some real nice gain and will still be pretty quiet if you keep the stock muffler.
I have all of those exept the spacers and the gains are very nice, the car is not loud exept it has a nice growl at WOT
02-04-2010, 02:09 PM
#54
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Headers and exhaust would be a great improvement, but I REALLY want to stay away from having a car that can be heard, I love a car thats fast and totally quiet. When you say have a cut out welded with the headers, where exactly are you talking?
Remember, you're helping an inexperienced person here. I've just learned a little bit by reading, and not hands on!
I'd really like to do the DIY STS, but I remember reading a post about someone who ruined their transmission the day they did it, so I might just buy the kit.
Another thing, its my DD, and I do 150 miles a day, so I dont wanna make the ride extremely harsh but I dont like the stock wheel gap, so I'd want to do some work there. Yes I've done my searching but I'm still unsure between a few different items since there are so many threads saying all kinds of stuff. I'll do more searching on this, but I'd like to hear from experience on the tein ss coilovers...
Am I forgetting anything?
Remember, you're helping an inexperienced person here. I've just learned a little bit by reading, and not hands on!
I'd really like to do the DIY STS, but I remember reading a post about someone who ruined their transmission the day they did it, so I might just buy the kit.
Another thing, its my DD, and I do 150 miles a day, so I dont wanna make the ride extremely harsh but I dont like the stock wheel gap, so I'd want to do some work there. Yes I've done my searching but I'm still unsure between a few different items since there are so many threads saying all kinds of stuff. I'll do more searching on this, but I'd like to hear from experience on the tein ss coilovers...
Am I forgetting anything?
Lowering springs will make your ride feel a little stiffer, but not much. I would go with a set of lowering springs for now on stock struts, and replace the stockers when they start to go. It's worth the looks alone!
02-04-2010, 03:10 PM
#55
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 487
Lowering springs will make your ride feel a little stiffer, but not much. I would go with a set of lowering springs for now on stock struts, and replace the stockers when they start to go. It's worth the looks alone!
Everything else that has been suggested, I can do in the future, but I might as well take care of the large expense since its so hard for me to save that much cash from my paychecks and spend it on my car...
02-04-2010, 03:53 PM
#56
I think I'm going to go with some Tein SS coilovers for now...I know its out of my $1000 budget, but only by 200 dollars, and I have a friend who is willing to install them for me... I'll just tap into what I was gonna use to pay off my credit cards lol.
Everything else that has been suggested, I can do in the future, but I might as well take care of the large expense since its so hard for me to save that much cash from my paychecks and spend it on my car...
Everything else that has been suggested, I can do in the future, but I might as well take care of the large expense since its so hard for me to save that much cash from my paychecks and spend it on my car...
02-04-2010, 04:19 PM
#58
1k in mods like intake, y pipe will not make his car much faster and the fun factor of driving his car will remain about the same, especially since you can only drive so fast on streets.
I say put the money into suspension mods like rsb, fstb, rstb, and spring/struts. Going around turns fast is fun, and cheaper than making a car go fast in a straight line. These mods will make the car so much more responsive and fun to drive.
I say put the money into suspension mods like rsb, fstb, rstb, and spring/struts. Going around turns fast is fun, and cheaper than making a car go fast in a straight line. These mods will make the car so much more responsive and fun to drive.
Get to know how your car handle's and reacts to different situations before you add a bunch of power to it.
02-04-2010, 04:22 PM
#59
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 487
+1 This is by far the best way to spend your money. dont change the exhaust for a bit because then the cops can hear you comming in the back woods. Noise travels so far at night. Tien coils or S-Tech springs/struts and sway bars. Just call Brian at cattman for the sway bars and find a set of used springs or coils. You should be able to get most of that or even all of it if your patient.
Get to know how your car handle's and reacts to different situations before you add a bunch of power to it.
Get to know how your car handle's and reacts to different situations before you add a bunch of power to it.
02-04-2010, 05:23 PM
#60
02-04-2010, 07:00 PM
#61
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 92
I'd do the timing advance, I've read a bunch on it, but the dealerships around here suck... the people that work at them are theiving bastards, and I live in south louisiana, so if you arent kin to someones babys daddys uncles cousins brothers mothers best friend, you cant get in on anything.
02-05-2010, 01:54 AM
#62
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Location: Baton Rouge, LA
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Do you know anyone between our two locations that gotz the skillz?
02-05-2010, 07:47 AM
#63
Yeah, I realized that after re-reading my post, then edited it while you were quoting me, adding in the STS and some cost estimates. Don't you hate it when that stuff happens?
I'm going to go OT for a moment and continue this line about ES bushings on the FSB. In April, I'm having HP Blues installed (w/OEM springs), and was at one point considering replacing the FSB end-links at the same time. And... if replacing the end-links, I was going to replace the FSB bushings as well. Well, after much discussion here, I backed off on that plan, under the premise that if it's not broken, don't fix it. (Ditto for the ball joints, and tie-rod ends.)
So (big lead-in, huh?) my OT moment to you, PuppetMaster: do you really think replacing the 23mm bushings on the SE's FSB is worth the effort? And if so, would I need to replace the end-links anyway, since the FSB has to be taken down?
I'm going to go OT for a moment and continue this line about ES bushings on the FSB. In April, I'm having HP Blues installed (w/OEM springs), and was at one point considering replacing the FSB end-links at the same time. And... if replacing the end-links, I was going to replace the FSB bushings as well. Well, after much discussion here, I backed off on that plan, under the premise that if it's not broken, don't fix it. (Ditto for the ball joints, and tie-rod ends.)
So (big lead-in, huh?) my OT moment to you, PuppetMaster: do you really think replacing the 23mm bushings on the SE's FSB is worth the effort? And if so, would I need to replace the end-links anyway, since the FSB has to be taken down?
02-05-2010, 07:49 AM
#64
I'd do the timing advance, I've read a bunch on it, but the dealerships around here suck... the people that work at them are theiving bastards, and I live in south louisiana, so if you arent kin to someones babys daddys uncles cousins brothers mothers best friend, you cant get in on anything.
02-05-2010, 08:19 AM
#65
I moved this OT discussion back here where it's more appropriate:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...22mm-23mm.html
02-07-2010, 10:25 PM
#67
im currently trying to find mods for the same price. i have a set of used s-tech springs if you want em pm me. they are off the car and ready to sell
it will not allow me to post in the classifieds so you would have first priority on em.
it will not allow me to post in the classifieds so you would have first priority on em.
02-07-2012, 05:55 PM
#69
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 4
There's many ways to go. How about I list a bunch of good mods to choose from?
-GAB stock intake. $0
-Home made SRI- ~$100ish
-OBX headers + O2 Simulator + bung reweld- $450ish - less used
-Used 2.5" cat-back or CustomMaxima 2.5"- $250-300ish OR instead of the cat-back, have a Cutout welded in for $50-100 and have stock exhaust for stealth and quiet.
-Used VAFCII- $125-150ish
-1 hour on a dyno tuning OR a wideband to self tune- $100-150
-HID fog lights- $50-70
-Lowering springs- $120-230
-Clear side markers- $50-60 for all 4
-02 SE tail lights- $50-100
-LEDs for all external 194 lights- $20-30
-Short Shifter- $5-100+ You can do the DIY to save money
-ES shifter bushings- $25-30
-NWP Spacers- $220
-ES engine mounts- $50?
-FSB- $20-100+
-cheap aftermarket struts- $300-400
-used set of coilovers- $600+
-wheels/tires... other car OEM or rota- ~$600-1000
Anything you can get used, I would. Most of these parts (especially performance parts) will outlast your car and will have zero difference being used other than suspension stuff.
-GAB stock intake. $0
-Home made SRI- ~$100ish
-OBX headers + O2 Simulator + bung reweld- $450ish - less used
-Used 2.5" cat-back or CustomMaxima 2.5"- $250-300ish OR instead of the cat-back, have a Cutout welded in for $50-100 and have stock exhaust for stealth and quiet.
-Used VAFCII- $125-150ish
-1 hour on a dyno tuning OR a wideband to self tune- $100-150
-HID fog lights- $50-70
-Lowering springs- $120-230
-Clear side markers- $50-60 for all 4
-02 SE tail lights- $50-100
-LEDs for all external 194 lights- $20-30
-Short Shifter- $5-100+ You can do the DIY to save money
-ES shifter bushings- $25-30
-NWP Spacers- $220
-ES engine mounts- $50?
-FSB- $20-100+
-cheap aftermarket struts- $300-400
-used set of coilovers- $600+
-wheels/tires... other car OEM or rota- ~$600-1000
Anything you can get used, I would. Most of these parts (especially performance parts) will outlast your car and will have zero difference being used other than suspension stuff.
nice breakdown..this was helpful even on myself because im looking to do some mods to my exhaust n some others
02-08-2012, 06:43 AM
#71
I would spend my $1000 like this. These mods made my Maxima much more fun to drive.
Stillen Rear Sway Bar $292 - http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...N&model=MAXIMA
Eibach Pro Kit Springs $270 - Estimated this price ( I'm currently running on S-Techs, but mat switch over this spring )
Tokico Illuminas $377 - http://www.andysautosport.com/nissan...shocks/tokico/
ES Front Sway bar Bushings $20
Moog Sway Bar end Links $32 - http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...s.asp?cat=4207
Stillen Rear Sway Bar $292 - http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...N&model=MAXIMA
Eibach Pro Kit Springs $270 - Estimated this price ( I'm currently running on S-Techs, but mat switch over this spring )
Tokico Illuminas $377 - http://www.andysautosport.com/nissan...shocks/tokico/
ES Front Sway bar Bushings $20
Moog Sway Bar end Links $32 - http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...s.asp?cat=4207
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