mobil 1 10w30

 

Im thinking of going Royal Purple ....If I can find a place that sells it in San Diego...Anyone ??

 

Why are so many of you runnin 5w-30? It cant be cold anywhere, or is it?

Ive always thought you get better performance w/ 10w-30.

or am i wrong? (again)

 

The owners manual specifies that 5w-30 weight be used.

 

A 5W-30 and a 10W-30 have almost identical viscosities at 100 degrees Celsius. The 5W-30 provides better start-up protection and fuel economy which is why Nissan prefers it overall. In the Northern tier of the states, 5w-30 is fine. In the southern tier, where the extra start-up protection of the 5W-30 isn't an issue because of the warmer temps, the 10W-30 works great. In extreme use, the 10W-30 is slightly more shear stable than the 5W-30 is, so many people prefer that in the warmer climates.

 

Do you mean to tell me that someone besides me actually reads the Owner Manual? I don't believe it!

 

http://www.carparts.com/parts/newsea...utoidsearch=NO

If you wait for a discount coupon, you can get purchase it by the case for under $4.00 a quart delivered. But you'll have to be patient after you order it. Carparts.com is notorious for slow delivery.

 

You are not alone.

 

My local Napa Auto Parts store had them for $6/quart. I didn't know any local parts stores carried it. I got one to make a baseline analysis out of.


[pushy moderator mode]
You are required to have your oil analyzed by Blackstone as you and Lime are the only participating members I'm aware of that use Royal Purple.....
[/pushy moderator mode]

 

Mobil 1 tri-synthetic 5w30

switching to redline.

Mark

 

I would also argue that if the 5W30 and 10W30 are both synthetics, the startup advantages of 5W30 over 10W30 would be almost nothing, unless you start your car in -30 temps everyday. Since most Maximas will not experience that kind of cold, I would stick with 10W30 synthetic all year round.

DW

 

amsoil 10w-30,amsoil filter

 

Wow, you don't hear of that often...let me know how that goes for you.

I just had my first oil change and I put in penzoil synthetic blend. 5w.

 

Did you complete the baseline analysis? If so, have you posted the results? I didn't find anything in the Oil Analysis spreadsheet.

 

No baselines, besides the BMW Synthetic and Valvoline MaxLife.

However, he is about ready to send off about 7-10 samples and I'm sending off 4-more once I get the kits. However, neither of us have Royal Purple to use for a baseline.

You should send some Royal Purple to Bill or at least Oil Analyzers for "the cause".
Baseline Analysis Samples

 

Phoung is supposed to send the sample container kit once he gets them.

Then, 10 oils of my choosing (I think I have 7 or 8 confirmed: Mobil, Castrol, Royal Purple, Amsoil, BLAH BLAH BLAH) will be sent in. I would expect those to be sent in next week. It will probably take a week or two to get the results back, as Oil Analyzers, Inc. is sort of pokey when it comes to getting results back.....

IceY2K1 is sending in Redline, Kendall, BMW dino, and Mobil 1 Blend Oil.

iwannabmw (i think) is doing a Redline gear oil baseline and his own gear oil sample.....

 

Havoline Full Synthetic, 10w/30 ($3.49/QT @ G.I. Joes)
and OEM Nissan or Purolator Pure 1 filter.

 

Mobil 1 10w 30 synthetic

Nissan OEM Filter

 

castrol GTX....getting the sample to send out to Blackstone soon...(will USPS take my sample if I told them the content is "chemical"?)

 

I could turn that around and argue that unless you drive in a furnace the extra shear protection a 10W-30 will give over the 5W-30 (I'm talking Amsoil oils here) isn't a factor as well. The Viscosity Index, which measures how much the viscosity of an oil will change with temperature, for the 5W-30 is 182 and for the 10W-30 is 167. The higher the number, the better, so looking at this one test, the 5W-30 is the better oil. Widening the scope a little, let's look at NOACK volatility, which determines the evaporation loss of lubricants at high temperatures. The 5W-30 loses 6.9% of it's weight while the 10W-30 loses 6.6% of it's weight. In this case the 10W-30 scores a little better, but the 5W-30 is not far behind, especially when you consider that Mobil 1 10W-30 loses 14.98% of it's weight when exposed to high temperatures. Looking at one last test, the High Temperature/High Shear Viscosity test, which measures the viscosity and shear rate at high temperatures to indicate how well the oil performs in conditions usually found around the bearings of engines, we find that the 5W-30 is rated at a minimum of 3.5 and the 10W-30 is listed as >3.5 I'm assuming it can't be too much greater than 3.5 because the 10W-40 is listed at 3.93. The units involved in this last test are listed as cP, 150°C, 1.0 X 106 s.-1

Considering the above, it doesn't seem there is much of a reason to insist on a 10W-30, especially when Nissan prefers the 5W-30. Either one works just as well in the majority of situations we're talking about here, like most things, it all comes down to personal preference and where you're particular priorities are.

 

Good name on sale and change @ 5K.
40 years of no problems.

 

Bill, I have clean Amsoil 80W-90 to send in so we can compare it to the Redline that I think IceY2K1 has. I also have another very abused ATF sample that I will send in at the same time. I'm still waiting on the results of my last analysis from my motor oil.

 

Ok, sounds good.

 

hey denny are those clear tail lights? or is it just cause it's a black and white picture?
Motor oil, I use Mobil 1 Synthetic. But I've heard a lot of good things about AMSOIL. I might be switching, Soon.

 

Actually, the 5th gen manual says for -20-100+ degrees F a SAE 5W-30 is preferred for ALL ambient temperatures. They are specifying a 5W-30 for all ambient temperatures incase the engines see sub zero cold start ups, but this is not necessarily the optimum viscosity for areas that see 100+ temperatures especially in high shear areas such as the cylinder walls and bearings.

My Owners' Manual also says a SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40 may be used if the ambient temperature is ABOVE 0-degrees F. The temperature range specified is 0-100+ degrees F.

These are recommendations for NON-synthetic oils which do not flow as well as synthetics at cold temperaturs, so IMO I would even use a 15W-40 synthetic since I live in the Arizona desert(20F-125+F) at least during the summers. However, I'm going to wait and see Bills' Oil Analysis results and my USED Blackstone samples before I'll say which offers greater protection for MY CLIMATES AND DRIVING CONDITIONS.

 

Where is that CAN OF WHOOP *** smiley when I need it! Great breakdown.

I agree MOSTLY. However, there are more polymer thickners added to the get from a 5W to a 5W-30 than from a 10W to a 10W-30. This explains the difference in "viscosity and shear rate at high temperature" test results you stated of a 3.5 vs. a >3.5 and the "Viscosity Index" rating of 182 vs 167, since in high shear areas the polymer thickners align themselves to form the path of least resistance which decreases the film strength allowing greater metal to metal contact. The fewer thickners added the better high shear area protection. Whether you'll ever own the vehicle long enough to see the benefit of any of this is a VALID point.

BTW, I do "drive in a furnace", aka Bullhead City ARIZONA, aka HOTEST SPOT IN THE USA second ONLY to Death Valley, but no one lives there, at least for long. I have seen upwards of 125(135 once from inside the AC comforts of my house), but on AVERAGE I see summer temperatures of 110-120. I believe IMO the 10W-40 or 15W-40 are OPTIMAL for MY driving conditions, at least during those months to minimize wear, but then again I rarely go outside and drive the Max during those peak times of the day.

 

Well, touché

I'll stick with 10W30 My rationale is simple, since I drive hard regularly I use the oil that's better in heat than the one that has better startups in the cold. You've proven that the difference is not so great, but there's still a difference, the difference being that the 10W30 is still better suited to hard driving and 5W30 is better for the cold. That's been my assumption all along.

DW

 

10W/30 just goes with my cereal better

 

What about break-in period usage? I've heard that some manufacturers use a break-in oil - could be a special oil or an oil with an additive. I've been told that you shouldn't change this oil for 5K miles for proper break-in. You guys have any idea what oil or additive is used in this case? I would suspect that in a new engine you would want a low weight since you have a tight engine.

 

I went to school in Prescott, so we used to make the trip over your way and across the river frequently. Thankfully I never saw temps. that high, but the difference between Prescott and Bullhead City sure were amazing. Hello altitude.

I do agree that the 10W-30 is a better in those conditions. I'm not trying to say everyone should use 5W-30. I just wanted to point out that the 5W-30 and the 10W-30 are very similar, and certainly not as different as most people seem to think. Like you said, will it make a difference in the lifetime of our cars? Who knows? Again, it all comes down to personal choice.

Dwapenyi, I'm not trying to get you to switch to a lighter weight, your reasoning has a lot of valid points. I'm mostly playing Devil's Advocate and trying to get more people to understand about the products they use and some of the reasons why, instead of just blindly repeating myths and practices that have been around for decades and are outdated and archaic.

 

For the most part, the crankcases are just filled with a normal motor oil. Sometimes automakers have blends that contain an additive package that has an extra amount of corrosion inhibitors because the cars may be sitting for long periods of time on the dealer's lot. It's not really "break in" oil, though. You could drain it at any time and replace it with the oil of your choice and the engine would break in just fine. Personally, I'd wait until the first oil change anyway because I think it's a waste of money to swap oils before necessary, though many people here will disagree with me on when the first oil change should be.

Piston aviation engines are a different story, and may be what you're thinking about. Those engines need to run on mineral oil for 50 hours with frequent oil changes in order to break in properly.

 

There is one flaw in your logic...the 30 represents protection during 'heat' while the 5 or 10 represents cold flow. So, 5 will flow better than 10 during cold startup, however since both have a rating of 30 they will protect equally the same. I would feel sketchy about using 5W20 but not 5W30.

Ford switched to 5W30 a few years back finding that it solved some tight tolerance lubrication areas of there engines. I beleive they now recommend 5W20, but that is probably more for CAFE requirments than to save there customers from blowing an engine.

In closing , its all about what you are comfortable with. 10W30 will protect during hard driving the same as 5W30.

 

I'm in SoCal so I use Mobil 1 10W30 (and Nissan filters) since it doesn't get cold here at all...usually averages in the 70's.

 

2002Max, You're looking at it idealistically. If you were to take the oils specs simply at SAE ratings then 5W30 would rule, since it would do everything the 10W30 does and more. The actual specifications show that 10W30 has a better "30" weight than 5W30. As iwannabmw's specs pointed out, 10W30 performs better at 30 weight than 5W30. His point was that the diference is not as great as it used to be, but, 10W30 is still a bit better in hot climates.


Iwaanabmw, no biggie, I like arguing because it gets people into exchanging alot of useful info. I'm usually looking for someone to make me change my mind. Always open to suggestions

DW

 

I was preparing to change the oil in my 2000 Honda Odyssey van today and asked two Honda mechanics if I could use Mobil 1 10w-30 instead of the 5w-30 that the Honda owner's manual recommends. They both said that 10w-30 would work fine but I would get better performance using 5w-30.

 

ICEMAN, hheeh sent our Van's sample in today with 3k of miles... Valvoline Durablend 10w30.

 

Thanks!

I'll add it to the list.

 

Actually, there are quality 30 weights available, just not so readily.

I am aware fuel economy will be "worse" until warmed, but to an extremely small degree. Automakers insist on such light multi-vis oils to allow them to achieve higher fleet fuel economy numbers for CAFE.

Any multi-vis oils can gunk an engine, with the exception of some synthetics. Avoiding polymer VI extenders is a silly excuse to use expensive synthetic oil when there are single weights that will work just fine.

BuddyWh

 

castrol gtx in all my vehicles over the years
usually 40 or 50 weight

 

To each their own. Personally it's not worth the hassle and tradeoff's for me to use a single weight. I just prefer a high quality synthetic. You really have to push a multi-weight synthetic to get it to the point where it's going to break down enough to cause problems in your engine.