For a while had a knock in the suspension as some other members has stated too. Took my car to the mechanic and replace both front bearings and motor mounts... People no more knocking or anyhting.... The knocking noise came form the passenger side and after replacing the Top motor mount the noise is no more... so if you still have the knocking while going over bumps.. look at you top motor mount and your problem will be fixed..

I got my baby back and now is noise proof.... like when she was brand new.

Good luck

 

When you say top motor mount are you referring to the one on the passenger side by the ps reservoir? If so I might replace this as this noise drives me crazy!

 

yes.. mine looked fine but it was shot. replaced and no more knocking....

 

The motor mount you are talking about can you post a Pic of it plz.
I have some noise come from the front and was thinking it was the front Bushings. I only hear the noise as I go over bumps nuthing at start up or reving the engine.

 

it is the one on the left hand side of the pic....

 

Is this a DYI project? If not, how much did the dealer hit you for??

 

It is a DYI project; nothing major involved. Of the 4 mounts, I think it is the easiest one to change. My clunking noises, along with some engine whine, also went away when I changed mine.

 

Interesting. What kind of engine whine?

I have a whining sound that seems to come from the passenger side, but I was thinking it was more related to the blower motor - seems to come and go, and more so when the defrost is on - and since it was replaced several years ago under warranty figured it was just a crappy part.

Also have some slight clunking. It's probably time for some new struts, but I might start with the mount and see what happens.

 

It was a whining that seemed to follow the RPM's, coming from the passenger side, and it was very noticeable inside the cabin. The engine also used to feel kind of loose at take off, and sometimes I could hear an abnormal clunk when shifting from one gear to the next (automatic). I am inclined to believe that they had something to do with the mount because, coincidentally, they went away after I changed the passenger side mount. The car feel more "solid", for lack of better word.

 

did you get an oem one? also any how to or tips you can give? in the diagram the front of the engine is on the bottom left correct?

 

it is an easy job if you have the time to do it, I didnt so I pay for the job, It was easier to watch than actually do it. I bought them OEM and no w the car is smoooooooooth as when it was new. Yes the front is is the left of the pic.

 

I am going to have to try this. I will order a new mount tomorrow. I live down a bumpy road and the noise drives me nuts.

 

Can someone post a step by step process to get the passenger side mount replaced? I got my waterpump done about 30K miles ago, I should have done that mount then, but stupid on my part and overlooked that the braket had to come off to access the pump cover.

Anyway, I want to replace it since I have replaced the crossbar mounts with manuals. The symptoms explained in the thread are so much like the ones I am facing.. it is pretty annoying when the engine moves beyond the specs!!!

 

The picture on the left is the aluminum OEM mount; the one on the right is the steel aftermarket. (I found one in pretty good condition at a junk yard for $12).
If you don't have a breaker bar, get one as a loaner from an autopart store; it will be pretty handy to have.
Remove the front passenger tire and the plastic cover in the fender well. Place a wood block under the oil pan and, with a jack, raise the engine just a bit in order to release the pressure from the bolt that connects the mount to the chasis bracket. You will need a deep socket to hold the nut on the back of that bolt while removing it from the front.
There is one nut on the prong facing down that gets removed from the bottom, through the fender well, using a couple of extension bars and an universal joint (I wrapped some tape around the joint so it wouldn't be too loose). There is another nut that hooks up on a prong that faces up (molded into the engine lower bracket) and it is easier to remove from the engine compartment.
To gain some room, I removed the horn that sits next to the coolant reservoir and set it aside. I also unsnapped the power steering reservoir from its metal backing and let it loose so I can maneuver around the back of the mount.
The rest is just removing all the bolts that secure the mount to the engine by the upper bracket.
There is one bolt that will result too long if you are using an aftermarket mount to replace the original one. You will have to either cut the bolt or use a couple of washers (I chose the latter).

 

Thanks for the step by step!!!!

 

I'm just lazy... how much did it cost to replace them?