Well as I promised hear is my rear bearing write up.
Feel free to comment

You will notice that my car is operating in snow and salt, therefore very very rusty.




Remove E-brake cable bracket bolt.

[IMG]http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g270/ColtMax/RearBearing013.jpg
[/IMG]
Disconnect E-brake cable


Remove Caliper

 

Remove Caliper Bracket
At this point you should remove the Disc from the bearing hub simply by pulling on it. Since my car is very rusty, and in a rush I ommited to use Anti-seize between the disc and the hub, my disc was completely rust welded in place. Puller, heat, nothing worked so I decided to remove the whole assembly and work it on the bench later on.


Remove Bearing Cap. It might be a very good idea to buy new caps. I had to punch the cap pretty hard to remove it. Would not have been a good Idea to reuse it.



Using the 32mm socket with the breaker bar remove the bearing retaining nut.

 

I had convincing arguments to seperate the disc from the hub! 3 hits!

 

Clean disc to avoid future seizure and be very generous on anti-seize

 

Re-assemble



You may want to retract the brake piston for an easy reassembly.



I usually apply a small RTV bead to get better protection from dust.

 

 

Good work.

 

Wow! Excellent job on this tutorial; mind you asking who took the pictures while you did the work?

 

@2Slow
Thank you!

@sontakke
So true! By the look and angle of the picture, looks like I have a USB port on the back of my head.

I was actualy using a Camera Tripod

 

Nice. This will def be saved for future reference.

Just one question. What I have read before is that you needed a hydrolic press to change out these bearings??Do you need the press only for the fronts?

 

Only the front wheel bearings normally requires a the use of a press, but I used my tow ball and sledge hammer to easily press them out as described in this other thread:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-archives.html

 

Nice. Great writeup. Definatly more involved than the rear bearings but looks do-able.

 

Nice threat thanks for the how to and the pics!!
Now what kind of noise where you having? or what make you change it?
I am having a weird noise coming from my right rear and it looks like it is speed related, the tire looks ok and balanced.... what could it be?

 

Great writeup, a few comments relative to my 2000 Maxima:

• Rear axle nut was 30mm, not 32mm
• Removal of the disc in the back can be accomplished using the two holes for a bolt that will push the disc away from the hub, no need for a press.

I realize that not all rotors will have the two "removal" holes allowing you to tread in a bolt to remove the rotor, but they sure are handy.

Also, probably everyone knows this already, but I have always through it a big pain to remove the parking break cable from the rear breaks. I figured out that all you need to do is remove the spring and use a 17mm socket to torque the lever around, super easy.

 

This was not mentioned in your write up but I am currently working on replacing my rt rear wheel bearing and the whole process has progressed with minimal issues, that is until now.

I have a replacement bearing from nissan and when I was installing the new part I noticed that the old part has a sealed (duct jacket) on the out side roller bearing. This would be the portion of the bearing under the dust cap that covers the wheel nut. The new hub assembly does not have a seal. and the grease is exposed.

Is this correct? Do you remember if there was a seal on your new bearing?

Has anyone seen this before?

THanks

Chris

 

Mine was the same way, no jacket or sides on the bearings. I put them on and have not had an issue, the hub seems to protect okay.

 

Nice write up mane. But d@#m...that's a lot of rust !

 

I just did this in 15 min. used this write-up. Did you reuse the nut. According to the service manual your not suppose to reuse the nut. Which I find weird cause the dealership didn't even have one in stock which makes me believe they don't follow their manual. I used some thread lock and re-torqued it to factory specs.

 

On my Saab front hub (same principle), I replaced the nut according to specs because it was inexpensive and I had it on hand anyway. That being said, I would have no qualms re-using said nut providing it still fits tightly and is in good condition. Good idea on the thread lock as you just provided that needed extra insurance a new nut would have given you.

Excellent write-up OP, by the way... and the picture links are intact.

 

Giving assurance to someone that did this in 2011?

 

Yes, haha. I consider it a legacy post. If for whatever reason someone has the inkling to search 'rear wheel bearing replacement' in the distant future but doesn't have a new nut, well there you go.

But those people who DIY are a dying breed....